Jump to content

Ask a Shiter


warren t claim

Recommended Posts

 

there's a rather nice looking jag xj8 on retro rides for a grand.

 

It's even got a tow bar.

 

What would be a realistic short journey round town mpg from one of these. Would it be single figures?

 

Don't know about XJ8 but the X300 4.0 you would likely be looking at 16-18mpg in town. It's all relative though, my fathers Insignia Diesel won't better 30mpg round the town. But then by all accounts it's doing 60mpg on dual carriageway or the motorway...

 

Just wondering loike.

 

 

It is all relative, yes. But the mo it will have to remain a flight of fancy i think. A shame.

 

Both  cars we've got have poor economy round town - low 20's. So if it had matched that, that would have been fine. But I couldn't, in all honestly, volunteer for worse economy than i've got now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With two trestles and the load exactly in the middle you know the trestles are at their max

 

but

 

with the four trestles, you cannot share the load equally between a pair of trestles at each end. In practice, one trestle at each end will carry all of the load at that end.

 

It could be done if your 600kg was carried on two cross beams and those cross beams were each carried by one of your trestles at each end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a straight plank, you are better off using three or five trestles rather than four.

 

Oh, and this topic reminds me for the one lesson I ever learned and understood in Civil Engineering - the principle of superposition. With 2 trestles, or axles or shelf brackets, where is the optimal placement to minimise sag of the beam/shelf/trestle?

 

Answer: one-fifth of the way in from each end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How can I tell what type of paint is on my Princess, if it's celly is there a way to test it.

 

The car has had new panels fitted at some point in its life but I think this would be quite a number off years ago.

 

I would like to paint it myself but have only used celly paint over 20 years ago and don't want to go 2K or water based as I would rather do what I know I have done before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How can I tell what type of paint is on my Princess, if it's celly is there a way to test it.

 

The car has had new panels fitted at some point in its life but I think this would be quite a number off years ago.

 

I would like to paint it myself but have only used celly paint over 20 years ago and don't want to go 2K or water based as I would rather do what I know I have done before.

if theres a spot you can scrub with a rag and celly thinners , celly will soften and come off on the rag fairly quick 

 

2k wont come off on the rag

 

if you want to use celly then carry on...it should go over sound celly or 2k , only ball bag would be if its been done in synthetic /coach paint which wont like anything going over it but more synth , but generaly thats only used on old lorrys and skips etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With two trestles and the load exactly in the middle you know the trestles are at their max

 

but

 

with the four trestles, you cannot share the load equally between a pair of trestles at each end. In practice, one trestle at each end will carry all of the load at that end.

 

It could be done if your 600kg was carried on two cross beams and those cross beams were each carried by one of your trestles at each end.

Thank you for the replies so far...

 

To get the weight more evenly distributed on both trestles can I do this???

 

weight%203_zpsm91w05yg.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, this is something which has perplexed me for about a fortnight, ever since I changed the gearbox on the Nissan.

 

Why do cars have subframes? What do they bring to the party that old fashioned engine mounts and a crossmember doesn't already do? The Nissan has a crossmember which can relatively easily be dropped down to allow the gearbox to come out - or engine for that matter - but a subframe seems to make this significantly more complicated. Ford Focus clutch change anyone? No, I thought not...

 

I'm sure there is a good reason that almost all manufacturers now use them but what is it? Does it not add a lot of weight to the car and complexity to routine jobs and generally just get in the way?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As with most things, it's done for a huge number of different reasons by different manufacturers.

 

One being ease of initial assembly. It's much quicker in the production line when you've already got potentially a couple of dozen of the main mechanical bits on one lump ready to slot in.

Another is the fact that they are a good way to add rigidity to the bodyshell - The bodyshell itself is made of fairly thin steel and it's hard to join thin steel to thick structural stuff by welding and keep it reliable, plus if you welded a big structural member across the bottom of the engine bay it would make assembly hard work.

Another is for NVH purposes. Mount the subframe on compliant bushes and you've got another layer of noise insulation from the engine/suspension/road.

Yet another is to allow the bodyshell to be kept identical across a wider range of engine and transmission variants, just modify the subframe to clear the 2wd/4wd gearbox/propshaft arrangement etc etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks both, makes sense in the assembly stage which I hadn't thought of, I guess they build the whole lot then just roll it in.

 

I'm glad my Nissan doesn't have one now its well past its assembly stage - it does seem to make repairs easier by not having one! I'll suffer with the lower rigidity, NVH and complication of engine swopz YO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One for Panhard I think....

 

Do our model old heap (RR and B) have voltage stabilisers or similar for the clocks? The reason I ask is: the gauges in my ;new' heap read high (Volts up to the right hand edge of the white bit, oil pressure the same, and the temp gauge over the halfway mark) whereas the old Turbo 'R' read low for all three and were checked out and declared 'fine'!

 

If I turn the engine off and then put the ignition back on, all the gauges read lower (volts and oil pressure for obvious reasons ) and go back to their previous positions as soon as the engine is started. There's no problem as such, just nosey and like things to be 'right;!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That would appear to be a voltage thing, but not sure if it's a regulator issue - cars will always do the 14v when running, 12v when idle otherwise the alternator is buggered. Probably that your gauges aren't damped to buggery like a lot of new cars.

 

Hence your voltmeter is being spot on, as is oil pressure if the engine isn't running, so the only oddity is the water temp - and that's of no consequence when the engine is off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got oil in coolant header tank.

No mayo in oil or on dip stick, no loss of power*, starts easy.

Head gasket ?

225K mile DW8 non turbot.

K seal ? Then flog it quick ? Or does K seal really work ?

 

There's a fair chance it could be your oil cooler that's failed, it's not unknown on that engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's a spin on filter it will be sandwiched between the filter and block . A kind of square ish unit with two 5/8 ish pipes coming off it .

Twosmoke, could you move to the South East please? I'd be your best customer. You know everything about everything.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...