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Stanky

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Stanky last won the day on August 22 2018

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About Stanky

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    Fareham
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    Homebrewing, The A32, Cheese

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  1. And now an update from the other heap. I'm not a huge fan of alloy wheels, especially 20 year old ones which are a bugger to keep clean and in good condition. Add in a couple of previous owners who weren't hugely keen on keeping all the original bits of the car intact (see centre caps of alloys, luggage blind, mirror flaps on sun visors etc etc) and it ends up letting the side down a bit. They're also a sod to refurb without paying someone £40 a wheel to sandblast and then powder coat them, and then another firm £20 a wheel to remove the tyres, then refit them once done at the powder coaters and be wheel-less for a week and its all a bit of a chore. I like steel wheels with hubcaps which are honest things and a lot easier to look after in my experience. The mercedes has alloy wheels.... To begin. This is one of the best wheels They're not in bad condition, hold air fine and have locking nuts, they are shod with some 6 month old tyres but the brake dust gathers in the recesses and is a general chore to keep on top of. I wanted steelies, which mercedes sold as part of a 'winter kit' for the w203 I'm given to understand. Tracking 4 down, 20 years later was a bit of a challenge, but eventually I found a breakers in Crawley who had a matching set of 4x 6j x 15" ET31 steel wheels, which is what I wanted. I drove up in the pouring rain a few weeks ago to collect them and brought them back to Stanky HQ. They were a bit old and corroded but weren't past it by any stretch of the imagination. I paid £15 each for them which is a bit more than I wanted to pay, but they weren't interested in a deal for all 4, and the alternative was to buy 4 different ones from hither and yon and pay a fortune in postage. These were reasonably local and only needed one trip out to collect. The wheels had quite a bit of surface rust A mixture of crusty steel and built up brake dust. The outside face was better, but not a lot better. I set to with a wire wheel in my angry grinder to take off the worst of the flaky bits and lumps from all 4 wheels which generated quite a substantial bit of dust. A person with a double-digit IQ would have worn a mask, I held my breath as much as I could and ended up with brown bogeys for about 3 days... The end result looked better. I also gave the lips a really good seeing to with a metal file to remove all the surface rust and old rubber to make sure when they got to receive new tyres the beads sealed properly, as otherwise the tyre place would need to file the nice new paint off to smooth off the lip which wouldn't be good They got 2 coats of vactan at this point covering both the inner and outer faces of the wheels and hopefully addressing the remaining surface rust. Next up was a seeing to with black enamel paint. Once the vactan had thoroughly dried, I broke out these. I got 3x 400ml cans of this from ebay for £12 posted, which I hoped would be plenty. I painted the wheels one face at a time, with about an hour between coats until all 4 wheels had received 4 coats inside and out, before being left to dry out thoroughly for 24 hours. Looking loads better, I hope you agree? Again, my 'hold your breath and spray 'til you go blue' method of PPE failed hard and I had black bogeys for 3 days. At this point I trial fitted one of the wheels to the car to make sure it didn't foul anything, the bolt holes lined up etc etc. Mercifully they were fine. One thing that was very obvious though was that the bolts that go with the alloy wheels are WAY too long for the steels. The alloy wheel bolts are 40mm thread, whereas the steels need stubby 20mm bolts to hold them onto the hubs. I had one set of 5 of these with my spare wheel in the boot so fitted it up ok I went to ebay and ordered a set of 20 bolts which the seller assured me would definitely fit the car. They were 25mm thread m12x1.5mm pitch with a 17mm head. I hate locking nuts with a passion because in 2019 no-one steals shit alloys off 20 year old mercedes, and ham-fisted morons do shear off locking wheelnut keys trying to remove and refit wheels. They turned up and looked like this Lovely shiny new bolt on the right. however... On refitting the wheel, the bolt hit the end of the blind threaded hole in the hub well before the steel wheel was clamped in place. Buggeration. Here you can see the issue. Alloy wheel bolt on the left, brand new 25mm bolt in the middle and 20mm bolt on the right. The new nuts also have a tapered rather than domed section between the head and the threaded section which also doesn't help. OK, back to ebay, I needed 15 of the stubby 'spare wheel' wheel bolts to proceed any further. I can get away with just having 15, as I can reuse the 5 that go with the spare wheel in the boot since if I get a flat tyre, I can use the same bolts I take out to refit the spare wheel now. I also don't want any locking nuts at all. A chap in southampton came up trumps, for whatever reason he had 5 sets of 5 stubby 20mm bolts for sale, and took an offer on three sets which were duly posted out to me. I cleaned them up in the vice with a wire brush and gave the threads a light dab of copper grease and put them on the shelf. Next step was to get some rubber. I went with shiters favourite Uniroyal Rainsports from Tyreleader at £40 each delivered. They arrived from Germany within 72 hours, the parcel of wheelnuts from southampton took 6 days to get here.... I took the wheels and tyres to my local tyre place who are really decent, I dropped the wheels and tyres off to them and went shopping with the kids while they fitted the tyres to the wheels. I've been going to them for a good few years now and they were pleased as punch that I left them alone to just get on with it, and that I didn't have 4 manky old bald tyres that they needed to dispose of either. They fitted the tyres, new valves and caps and balanced them for £40 which I was more than happy to pay. I love the smell of brand new tyres. The final piece of the puzzle was some hubcaps. I wanted genuine mercedes hubcaps, aftermarket ones are universally shit in my opinion, but originals are now 20 years old and seemed to be rather scuffed, or outright chewed up! Ebay came up trumps again with a set of 4 hubcaps which were scuffed but otherwise in good condition for £20 delivered. They arrived safe and sound a few days later and I set to with fixing them up. I used my 'mouse' sander with some 600 grit sandpaper, followed by 1200 grit to sand down the rims of the hubcaps to get the gouges out and smooth them down I masked off the centres as they were in good condition and I couldn't work out how to separate the chromed metal star insert from the plastic Wiped them off with an old rag covered with meths to get as much dust off as I could and then began giving them a few coats of wheel silver I got 4x 400ml cans of this stuff from ebay for £10 which I thought would be plenty, giving each hubcap 4 coats of this basically used all of it up. In hindsight 6 cans may have been better but the hubcaps have come out well enough. One of them had particularly deep gouges which haven't come out quite as well as I'd hoped, but its not obvious from more than a couple of feet away. After this I had silver bogeys for 36 hours. I let them dry for 24 hours before starting on the lacquer to seal the paint. I managed to do one coat on one hubcap before my lacquer ran out and I had to order some more from halfords It took them 4 days to get the lacquer in stock but once there I got on and gave the hubcaps 3 coats each with a few hours in between to dry off The colour match vs the original (centre section) paint is mercifully very good. As you can see from the rightmost hubcap its blended in really well. Next up, demo fitting a hubcap to a wheel I'm pretty pleased with that, from 18" away they look really good (IMHO). So only one task remains. Car with alloys fitted at 18:30 tonight 30 minutes later, with SGS jack deployed to lift each corner in turn and swap the alloys over to the steelies using stubby bolts and fitting hubcaps on turns it into full on taxi-spec c-class I think its a much cleaner look, will be easier to keep clean as the hubcaps are very flat with no intricate bits for brake dust to get stuck in, and if it gets to it, they can be removed, sanded and re-painted quickly and easily if the brake dust and road muck gets really embedded. I need to take the car out for a few runs to wear the tyres in, and also then re-check the wheelnuts but I'm really pleased with how it looks now. All that remains is to do something about the lacquer peel! My lungs are probably fucked from the amount of rust, enamel paint, silver paint and lacquer I breathed in - I really need to get a decent mask for this sort of thing. But the end result is most pleasing. Thanks for tuning in.
  2. To attack it a slightly different way, can you change the file type that the phones saves pictures as? On my Moto G7 in camera I click on the icon of a camera with 'A' on it, drop it down to 'M' for manual then it allows me to select between .jpg and RAW formats. What phone is it? I'm not familair with .heic format?
  3. A good day for fettling today. I had some time earlier and had a go at using my fancy pants lift/tilter on the Daewoo as I never got around to putting colour onto the bit in the arches that got vactan and primer in November. I put the car up on the tilter and raised it up enough to get both front wheels off the ground. I undid the wheel nuts and took the wheels off. The hasty job I did on the arches last november after the MOT was holding up ok, with minimal pin-pricks of rust. Prior to this the entire area was brown and flaky. It looks worse than it is, I cleaned it with a rag and it came up OK. However, seems daft putting paint straight over this so I gave it another coat of vactan both sides and wrapped all the suspension components that I could using polystyrene sheeting This took quite a while to do both sides, I was fiddling with the mercedes as well (update to follow once work complete) so left it to dry for a couple of hours. Once dry, I used the leftovers in the can of Galaxy White that I used for the rear arch a year or so ago to overcoat it without spraying everything under there white. I'd like it to look less rusty, but not like its been painted with a paintball gun wielding drunk. End result wasn't bad, access the other side was a bit 'cosy' so just imagine it like this only reversed. On the driver side I managed to spray part of the lower arm but generally it was OK. It looks very bright, but will soon get mucky and blend in. It seems a load better now, and as this was the only other advisory (other than the now-sorted brake) in the last MOT so hopefully it'll pass OK in the winter. Its not a good car, but it is reasonably easy to work on, fast enough, and has enough interior space. Plus its pretty rare being a 2004-only 'Daewoo' branded one - before they went over to Chevrolet branding - and is something of a throwback by the standards of the mid-00s. My GX (lowly) spec 1995 Nissan Almera was better equipped, faster and more fun to drive. Not thrilling stuff, but hopefully some preventative fixing to keep it going for a while yet. The lift made the whole job a lot more stable, and a load easier, 10/10 for the first time I've used it properly.
  4. Ah, not to worry - I'm 95% sure its the same engine and same carb so whether its installed in a Volvo 300 or Renner 11 it should* work. Sorry I'd only just seen this though!
  5. Fucking right. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vergaser-Reparatursatz-Fur-VOLVO-340-360-Stufenheck-440-K-460-L-740-1-7-83-96/254119214089?epid=1926746828&hash=item3b2aaf7c09:g:-NEAAOSwkxtd6NLU That?
  6. Sorry, late to the party here but this is the same 1.7 OHV engine as a contemporary Volvo 300, correct? Can Brookhouse Volvo in Ipswich source anything? Does Volvo 340 carb base plate turn up anything on ebay? @tobyd - do you know offhand? Might that Mac chap in Needham have something that could be of use here? That carb looks familiar?
  7. Thank you all, target hit and pool closed off for this month.
  8. Funding update for July 2020. Running costs came to £86.20 last month including hosting and backups. I covered this so the balance in the account is unchanged at £109.18. May's donations were £100 and covered hosting backups and renewal of the forum licence software for the next 6 months I've opened up a new Money Pool HERE for contributions to the running costs this month. All donations gratefully received.
  9. I'm in the process of swapping my C180 alloys for steel wheels and hubcaps. They are 15" wheels shod with 6 month old 195/65 r15 tyres. They all match and are balanced but a budget brand. The alloys are this design: Interested? They are missing 2x centre caps and have some brake dust muck on them but plenty of life left. They'll come with bolts too if needed as the steelies need shorter ones.
  10. Further exciting updates. I have no idea what this is, it looks a bit Jag XK but is a 4 seater, though only 2 door. Spotted in an industrial estate in Portsmouth when picking a friend up from having his DMF cleaned. Anyone got any idea? Next up the first Rover 800 I've seen in an absolute age, at Halfords carpark. It was a 'Sterling' and was very tidy. These were all papped at the end of my road, there is a small estate of perhaps 10 small light industrial units and they have a car graveyard round the back. A lot of turgid dross, but some highlights include a sad face fiesta with chronic lacquer peel and a citroen ZX. I think this is or was an LPG specialist, it takes a particular masochist to LPG a ZX surely? The Bentley is round the front of a car repairs place and adds a distinct air of 1980s shadiness to the whole enterprise. I don't know if it moves.
  11. I've done that too and it was the most fun I've had in ages. I gave some side plates that were also ancient and chipped for my daughter (10) and told her to go mad, she couldn't believe it. I frisbee'd the first dinner plate and it smashed into a million pieces and she started throwing them like a ninja with shurikens. Was a brilliant afternoon out!
  12. My work colleague with the much mentioned e220d came over earlier as he'd snapped his wheel nut remover thing from the toolkit in the boot trying to get a wheel off and I (with much foolhardiness) proudly proclaimed my Clarke mains impact driver would undo anything. So he rocked up, into bay B of the new garage and I set to work. I really, honestly, have no idea how the wheelnuts have been done up so tight on the car. Driver side front, none of them would yield to whats rated (and I can believe it) at 450nm of torque. the impact gun was held on each bolt in turn for 60 seconds or so with a good quality 6-sided impact socket to literally no avail. not one of them released their grip. Moved onto the passenger side front, mild progress here, one (of 5) eventually releaxed its death grip on the hub. The other 4? No, not a bit. I had to give up, I suggested he try some 'freeze your nuts off' type stuff but I wasn't going near his nice alloys with my brazing torch and the impact gun wasn't shifting them. I am utterly baffled as to what has been used to do them up this tight? Have they used JB Weld as threadlock and a tame silverback? He messaged me later on to say the Normfest super crack had enabled him to get 3 more bolts (2x 1 wheel, 1 x other) off with a scaffold bar on a 18" breaker (I lent him one of my 17mm impact sockets as he only had 12-sided ones) but then was thwarted when the key bit of the locking wheelnut remover sheared clean off. So its basically fucked. The only plus point of this entire fiasco is that he's discovered this now, while all 4 wheels are fitted to the car and fully inflated. The prospect of discovering this at 11pm on the side of the M25 in the pissing rain with a flat tyre doesn't bear thinking about. Someone wants a damn good shoeing for this. I went and checked all of mine afterwards and all yielded to a 18" breaker bar (which is kept in the boot) and done back up again tight, but not ridiculously so.
  13. I bought my first house on Monday! After 15 years of renting a dismal variety of hovels, and spending the last 7 months with my well meaning but very OCD in-laws we got the keys to the new place last monday. Cue 2 days of moving all of my worldly posessions in, sorting it all then compiling a lengthy list of all the things we need to buy (washing line, dining chairs, microwave etc) to fill in the gaps. However, most importantly, this As well as a drive that will fit 3 cars on easily, I have my very own double garage! Its currently filled with about a million cardboard boxes and all sorts of moving tat and needs a good sort out, but this is literally the main reason I bought this place (as well as to house my family) - its exactly what I wanted. The days of tinkering with cars on a sloping drive in either the baking sun or pissing rain are gone. I have celebrated by buying myself a halfords tool cab and top box, 2 bigdug workbenches to go where the rickety shelving unit in the back right of the garage are currently, a nice new SGS alu trolley jack, and the @Skizzer-lift from CJ autos to properly kit it out. The kids are still asleep and I've actually got a bit of time to type this up before I hit up screwfix for a load of DIY stuff, the shops for a food shop that will make the EU stockpiled meat and grain mountains look like molehills and then argos for a bedframe for my eldest as the crack-den 'mattress on the floor surrounded by piles of toys and clothes' look isn't in vogue any more I'm told. Now I just have to pay for it all for the next 30 years...
  14. and if they change their mind, I'm the first in line
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