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Stanky

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Stanky last won the day on August 22 2018

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  • Recalcitrant Gearbox

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    Fareham
  • Interests
    Homebrewing, The A32, Cheese

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    Autoshite

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  1. Ah yes, but how many cars have you had the pleasure of actually putting a window through with a brick? There is something immensely satisfying about stoving a car window in like a mentalist. Soz to hear about the damage @Tubbo, tape a binbag over the hole for the full "I drive a Corsa and IDGAF" look?
  2. ...shuffling around supermarkets, trolley broadside across the aisle blocking everyone while you scour the chiller unit, squinting through your 'wrong' glasses, looking for the ultimately smooth yoghurt
  3. "Only visible to the human eye during the hours of darkness" is what I'm going with.
  4. Has anyone here driven one of these ever? I'd like to confess that I really like the styling and would actually like to own one of these one day. IIRC they are built on a beetle floorpan and have VW flat 4 air-cooled propulsion, so the speed and handling are a bit at odds with the looks, is that right? Is the lifting hardtop as leaky as I suspect it would be in anything other than Sahara like conditions?
  5. Spotted earlier in Southsea That's an impressive frontal area...
  6. I took the Daihatsu out for a run on the M27 earlier to see if swapping wheels front > rear had helped with the steering wheel wobble (It hadn't) and someone in a mildly barried Mk3 Mondeo with a personalised plate & front fog lights on tried to push me along when I was doing 75mph. I left at the next junction for Fareham central and they pulled up at the red lights and were revving the car up and looking over at me. So when the lights changed I treated them to some humble pie and a couple of 7000rpm upshifts. They were well and truly owned by a 'shit granny car' and I laughed like a drain.
  7. At this stage I can only think of two things it could be - wheels or that driveshaft. I can swap wheels F <> R tomorrow and see how that is, then if needed I can swap the driveshaft back to the original one which is now fully reassembled, I;d need to get some more gearbox oil though. We can do this! @Tubbo - you're #1 in the queue when it done come back up for sale, but I suspected you'd want me to fix the speed wobble and fit the full stainless exhaust first? 😁😁😁 I forgot to add - while taking it for a test drive the handling seemed a bit wayward, and took me a good while to build up speed. It wasn't until I was almost home that I remembered that I'd left 2x 25KG bags of sand and a 20L drum of engine oil in the boot! I use it as ballast because the lift is a tilting one, and the car is about 90% nose weight, and very short wheelbase so to get the front end off the ground i have to ballast the back end as much as I can. Whoops! Glad its nothing more sinister though.
  8. Thanks, I'll try swapping wheels back to front over the weekend and see how it behaves
  9. So it's different but not better. Having put it all back together I took it for a drive locally then on the motorway once I was happy the wheels were probably not going to fall off. It's still got the wobble at 65-75mph, but clears by 80mph. The wheels both rotate easily after a run (jacked up and rotated by hand) so neither caliper is binding. Next step is to have all 4 wheels balanced and the rims checked for run out. So not a lot better driving-wise, but glad I got that borked slider sorted
  10. Our constipated postal delivery finally arrove tonight, including my new slider bolts and the Irwin bolt removers from brutha_Stanky, so having dispatched a few other tasks I went out to have a serious look at this rounded off slider bolt tonight. I'd not used these before, but got the general idea, you bray the bolt gripper thing onto the sorry rounded off reminder of your failure as a mechanic, father and human being then ratchet it off, the harder you turn the more the teeth grip into the remains of the bolt and eventually it relents to my ULTIMATE POWER and comes out. Or something... well, here is the sorry remains of the bolt head not great, eh? so out with the irwin thing and a BFH So far, so good. I walloped it on as far as I could and then fitted up the 3/8 > 1/2" adapter to get a ratchet on it and BY THE POWER OF GRAYSKULL! oh. ummm, that wasn't supposed to happen... Hmmm. Right, the slider bolt has sheared off midway down and left the stub in the carrier. Right, lets pull the little rubber caps off and see what we have left shall we? I had a go at twisting the stub on the bottom out with mole grips but they just spun and chewed up the remains of the stub. Buggeration. Ok, well the best thing to do now is get the carrier off the car and see what we can do on the bench. 2x 17mm bolts and it was free of the car. I bungee'd the caliper itself out the way so it wouldn't fall off and dangle on the flexi while I wasn't watching. I grabbed the stub in the bench vice and tried to twist it, but it just spun in the jaws of the vice so I had to escalate to DEFCON 4 and deploy some heat. A few years ago I got a brazing torch with oxygen and MAPP gas tanks, I've not had much success with brazing, but its a handy thing to have for applying targetted heat Take that, you knave! I heated it up 'til it was cherry red then clamped the stub of the slider bolt in the vice and walloped the carrier to try and knock the carrier off the slider. This had limited success, so I gave it a few blasts of penetrating oil and hit it a bit more until Ha, gotcha! it took a while to bray it off, but victory was mine. The carrier was still a bit hot so I had been holding it with some adjustable pliers so it didn't hit the floor when it eventually parted company. I put the carrier down on the bench to cool down a bit while I got some rag and a tent peg and used it to clean out the voids that the slider bolts go into as much as I could. I then used the old top slider bolt and lubed it up with silicone grease and worked it in and out to get it moving as much as possible. I'd also cleaned the carrier down with a wire brush for good measure. Once it had cooled down, I refitted the carrier to the hub, refitted the disc, the pads and the caliper and bolted it to the carrier with the new slider bolts - well lubed with more silicone grease. so here it is all back together The car was still on the lift so i couldn;t drop it down and take it for a run to see if it was any better, but the slider was mega broken for sure, and is now a bit better. Is the heating and percussive maintenence likely to have had a lasting detrimental effect on the carrier? Have I b0rked it/was it b0rked already and should I get a new carrier? The new slider bolts went into the caliper/carrier a lot more easily than the old ones came out and they have had plenty of greasing, but should I hold off driving this thing at 70mph on the queens kings highway or is it probabaly ok? Massive thanks to @Barry Cade, I'd not have thought of this being a possible cause of the steering wheel wobble. It's not definitely fixed it, but this situation won't have been helping matters.
  11. Phwoaaar, atco porn. A fully working cylinder mower is a thing of beauty and will give you a lawn to be proud of. There is a damn good reason the lawn bowls lot demand the greens be cut with these. *Goes off to have a lie down*
  12. A small update, taken from elsewhere. The new cotter pins arrived and I tapped them in to replace the old ones which snapped when I removed them to tighten the lower suspension arm/balljoint castellated nuts. This was a piece of cake, just made sure the threaded extrusion holes were lined up with the crenulation (sp?) bits of the castellated nuts and tapped them in with a little hammer. Not very interesting. It was suggested that a cause of the vibration/wheel wobble might be due to the front brake caliper sliders being dry and binding on, So I set to, full of optimism that this would be a quick and easy thing to check. The passenger side came apart fine, and I was able to withdraw the slider bolts and grease them with silicone grease after cleaning them up no problem. They were indeed a bit dry so was probably a good thing. The passenger side was a different story. The top slider bolt came out with a bit of encouragement, for some reason something is a bit bent I think, the bolt would do to the end of the threaded section, but its a bit misaligned so I had to use a screwdriver to gently lever the inner edge of the caliper off the brake disc hub before it would slide out. This was dry too, so got greased and refitted. Then onto the bottom slider bolt. I have vague recollections that this was a bit of a 'problem child' previously, and sure enough the head of the slider bolt rounded off completely. I was using a 10" bar and a 6-point impact socket but it just utterly trashed it, the more I tried to hammer it on and get some purchase the worse it made the whole episode. So I gave up. My brother is posting my some Irwin bolt remover sockets which should be here this week, if that fails I'll need to disc cutter the remains off - which I'd prefer not to have to do - so currently hope rest with hammering a smaller bolt remover over it. I have ordered a set of slider bolts and associated rubber sleeves and things from Brakes International and will replace both sliders in case its them that are bent. I'll see how it goes together but have a suspicion there might be something up with the drivers side caliper. If the worst comes to the worst, BI have calipers for the Sirion for £60 each and no exchange surcharge so I might just replace both front calipers. To be honest, the current ones don't inspire much confidence, they stop the car, but there is a lot of pedal travel before anything actually happens... I'd like to get it on the road again this week so I can enjoy a bit more use before the winter - seeing how alarmingly I rusted away last winter when it got pressed into service over the 'road salt' months I'd like to keep it away from the worst of it this year. It has been fairly comprehensively dynax waxed, but still... if this doesn't cure the wheel wobble, then it might be the 2nd hand driveshaft is out of balance, if this is the case I can swap the old one back onto the car now I've sorted the CV joint boot, but that means draining the gearbox which I'd prefer not to have to do if I don't absolutely need to.
  13. fucking hell, thats a result - basically a free pass to reject any and all meetings for the next week and a half. "Nah m8, can't make it soz. Goin' 2 pay my respects innit"
  14. Thanks, will refit some new cotter pins (on order) and then take it for a run, then possibly swap wheels front-to-back to see if that helps. if that dosn't help I'll take you up on the DTI!
  15. I've been using the Daihatsu quite a bit recently as it's been dry and warm and it gets 40% better fuel economy than the Mercedes, but this has thrown up the issue of a jiggly steering wheel above 60mph on the motorway. I've had it in the garage tonight on the lift and front wheels off to tighten up all the front suspension bolts, all of which were tight anyway. I managed to snap both cotter pins on the lower arm castellated nuts which was annoying, but otherwise all seems fine. I've had the wheels balanced fairly recently but it still wobbles the steering wheel between 65 ish and 80 mph which is frustrating on the motorway. Anything else I should be checking? I will order some new cotter pins, then take it for another run. I managed to tighten a couple of bolts up a little bit, but nothing much noticeable. What else should I be looking at?
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