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About Rusty_Rocket

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    Rank: Citroen Ami

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    Kent/ Sussex border


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    United Kingdom

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  1. Are T4s at the point yet where a worthwhile one is dearer than a T5? I only ask because T5s are more useable on a daily/ regular basis, they genuinely drive like a big car. Go for a Caravelle or Shuttle (LWB) for the thick carpets and sound deadening. They really don't rust much either, which I think is a concern with a T4.
  2. Wow, I can't beat those mega mileages, but my 2005 VW Transporter is the highest mileage vehicle I've owned - ticked over 343,000 miles last month. It's hopelessly needy obviously, but the engine and gearbox are original and still perfectly good. It's on its 3rd clutch and DMF, 2nd turbo and fuel pump though. Any job other than regular serving requires you to literally take its whole face off-
  3. Those proper rubber fitted mats are worthwhile. A friend fitted one to his 2A and reckoned it did cut down the NVH. Apparently, the best thing was it meant things like coins/ cards/ phone didn't fall onto the road through the gaps quite so easily!
  4. The value of no-hoper Minis seems mad, but there is always the chance of it legitimately returning to the road with the availability of brand new bodyshells, even for Mk1 cars I think. They're not cheap though!
  5. Nice work! We've all been there with the sheared subframe bolts ๐Ÿ˜ฌ If you don't want to disturb the heelboard, you can just about get access to the captive nuts from inside the rear bins, next to the rear seat base. If you look inside the rear companion boxes, you'll see a closing panel which appears to join the inner sill/ rear 1/4 area to the rear inner arch. This panel is lightly spot-welded into place, only down one side. If you drill through these and carefully prise the panel upwards, you'll be able to look down into the rear of the heelboard and those troublesome captive ins
  6. Level '3' is top spec, cruise control, climate etc etc. Mine is a lowly '2'! That one is a pre facelift, but nothing wrong with that. As GarethJ says above... not a lot goes wrong with them. Mine gets it's bonnet lifted only to change the oil and top up the screenwash- that's it. They do/ did have a clutch issue where the pressure plate fingers become weak and the biting point drops very low. Mine has had this for years; when I first got the car, I removed the small rubber stop underneath the clutch pedal to give me another couple of mill travel and removed the damper unit in the
  7. The Br*tpart indicator lamps are just about useable but the sidelamp ones are hopeless because they're made of the wrong plastic. The heat from a 5w bulb on constantly, melts the fitting and the bulb falls out. ๐Ÿ™„
  8. Excellent! These things are very difficult to get looking tidy inside, yours looks great! I've been there with the speedo cable ๐Ÿ˜’ We had a 2A that needed a new one and the blue box suppliers just couldn't provide anything that would come close to working for more than a mile or so... We're lucky to get hold of parts for 50yo cars so easily, but it's not much use when they're so unfit for purpose!
  9. Those tyres look perfect to me, was the counter advisor very young? Maybe he's not used to proper cars have a full-sized spare wheel?! Good job keeping this thing going, it's an honest motor and so practical!
  10. Good luck. I would have thought the cheap tap should be fine as you were only trying to clean the thread, not cut it. I will say that when they are ok, the bolt easily spins in by hand. I'm not sure what's up with yours but maybe the hole is distorted and tightening things up? I too would would just try to tighten things up and hope for the best...
  11. I think if the cover is ok, fingers not worn or grooved etc, I'd only replace the friction plate. Obviously on anything else, you'd do a full clutch kit. But on a Verto-clutch'd Mini, the whole assembly including the flywheel is balanced from the factory, hence just replacing the friction plate won't upset that. If you replace everything, it needs to be dynamically balanced off the car. There are only so many people that can do that. Of course, you might get lucky and it would all be fine... or it might rattle your fillings out over 3000rpm! Certainly on my 1983 City E, I used t
  12. Excellent result, nice one! That puller looks well worth the money.
  13. I've not seen that one before but it looks very good for the money. My original one looks like something you'd find on a blacksmith's floor! Yours should come off with the Clarke puller (and persistence!), but you might have to leave it on there a week!
  14. Good luck with the flywheel. The job I dread the most on Minis. I have an original Churchill puller, which weighs an absolute ton and has never failed to shift one. The cheapies just don't cut it. All I would suggest is to try and tighten it a bit every day, turning the whole assembly and twatting it with a nice heavy hammer, through the starter motor hole.
  15. These early CAT cars with their single point injection were always difficult to get through their emissions test. The CAT needs to be hot, really hot. If the MoT tester hadn't already realised it was going to fail on rust, he might have tried to get it through by heating it up a bit. I think a new CTS, Lambda sensor and a proper Italian tune up, would give you a fighting chance. Good luck!
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