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    Kent/ Sussex border


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Rusty_Rocket's Achievements

Rank: Citroen Ami

Rank: Citroen Ami (6/12)



  1. It'll be fine!! Modern car, doing its thing!
  2. Nice work. The original earth terminal would have been secured to the battery with a self tapping screw, as standard. Boot floor looks clean btw!
  3. That's the best-bet engine for one of those I reckon.
  4. ...which is a good job as you'll be doing them every 12 months! More exciting is the rear lower arm bush, where the steel through-bolt shears off in the aluminium carrier. I like the Polo/ Fabia/ Ibiza as a car, but can't abide the fragile 3-cyl paperweight most of them seem to have.
  5. Would that be a Lion branded battery? As in an ECP special? If so, there's your problem straight away. We were returning them at work at a rate of one every two weeks until we gave up totally, sacked off ECP and opened an account with Motor Parts Direct. No battery problems at all since then!
  6. It's a Weber Hydraulik jack though - good bit of kit in its day.
  7. I do sypathise. I've had to fix two 3-cyl VAG wonders* now and despise that little sewing machine of an engine. They sound awful IMO and the valve burning is the tip of the iceberg; once you've had the head done it'll need a new chain and all the associated bits. Just the parts and machining on the last one came to £400. To add insult to injury, the repaired one is drinking a litre of oil every 500 miles. No leaks, no smoke, just disapearing. My guess is the owner drove it with a 'limp' for so long, it bore washed the cylinder and killed the rings. Did I mention it's done 60k from new? I'm afraid I'd be running it until it goes pop and weighing it in, unless the rest of the car is exemplary...
  8. I'm sure you know the reason it's shuddering at idle... I assume you've swapped coil packs and plugs around? I changed the valves on one a few months back and don't think I'd bother again; it's a surprisingly involved job for an engine the size of a microwave.
  9. As you've found out Doc, the fuel pump on 80s Pugs sometimes works via a tachymetric relay. The pump will get voltage with the key in the start position and also when the engine is running. Just putting the ignition on with a static engine will not give it voltage. Safety innit. And it works... most of the time 😄
  10. Yes... electric pump in the tank. It's easily accesible when you remove the round plastic covers under the rear seat. One is for the sender, the other is the pump. Mine was seized solid with fuel that had turned to brown varnish (it's been sitting in a garage for twenty years). I managed to salvage mine and get it moving ok; the pump is very simple and easy to dismantle. Good luck! I'm no body man but I'd say that rot is only what I expected it to be, and repairable without too much agg.
  11. Hey Doc, I think the seat covers unzip and come out relatively easily on that era Pugwot- they'd come up like new at 30 degrees in the washing machine!
  12. Knowing ARG at that time, I'm guessing the bearing originated from a Morris Minor, was then modified to fit a Land Rover, had its part number changed six times, then had a spacer added to fit an Allegro (for 6 months only), then made NLA, then specified for the Montego with an oil seal from an Ital, with production changing to a different supplier after two weeks. Currently on back order since 1991 😄
  13. The newer style inverter type MiGs are very small and portable. My pal rocked up with one recently; it was about the size of a cereal box laid on it's side. He bought it from ebay, it wasn't expensive. Polish made I think, and welds very nicely indeed. Certainly, it makes my full-size Oxford unit with its traditional transformer feel like a dinosaur!
  14. Looks like it would live again with some patching to the sills. The only thing I'd say is, because values are still very low, don't spend too much on it... Having said that, parts are really cheap. I bought a new brake master, wheel cylinders, hoses, rear shoes and front pads for under £70 by putting part numbers into ebay!
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