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mat_the_cat

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    Riding the trough of the fashion wave
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    Anything with wheels or an engine...

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    United Kingdom

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  1. I traced the feed line back from the lift pump to the tank, and stuck it in a jerry can. Fuel *was* getting to the pump, just not leaving it! I thought initially it was trying to fire on one cylinder, but think the speeding up of cranking was down to low compression on one.
  2. They didn't include this one for some reason... (Actually a test of the concrete block, not the vehicle so high speed/ heavily loaded). Engine access on the LT is pretty good actually, and you can work on it in the rain whilst staying dry! Opening the bonnet is a bit of a faff though; you have to fold the passenger seat out of the way and completely remove the driver's.
  3. 381 miles later I'm back home again after an uneventful drive back. Nice to be behind this set of instruments for a long drive again Thanks to @Six-cylinder and @Mrs6C for their hospitality, and the usual suspects for good company. Illuminations were just about the only positive result with the CF: A Saxo named Desire: (Which rhymes with fire!) NB, @hairnet isn't vomiting into his cup, at least as far as I know.
  4. Actually... 😜 Sadly that's as far as we've got. Looks like there is a fault with the injector pump, as there's diesel reaching it but not spurting out on cranking. Stop solenoid is OK, so Talbot has taken off the pump for further investigation. Probably less than ideal conditions to be stripping it down outdoors in a field though!
  5. That's the way I'm leaning! But first the mechanicals - in-between polishing the Airstream I've sorted the other front caliper. I could have probably left it as it was moving fairly freely, but I couldn't quite move the pistons back by hand like I could on the rebuilt side. So it would have bugged me not to! Inside of the caliper cleaned up ready for the new seal: Piston lightly smeared with rubber grease: This means that any moisture getting past the dust seals shouldn't corrode the caliper or pistons. Job done! Next is the rear brakes. There's nothing actually wrong with them (that I know of!), but I didn't check them at the last service for the simple reason I was planning on changing the rear tyres around now. So will give everything the once-over while the wheels are off. I'd been trying to squeeze a few more miles from the rear tyres, but seeing as we're heading to France this summer, don't think they'll last another 2000 miles!
  6. I'm not going to clog this up with loads of slightly different polishing in progress shots, but after most of the week on it, it is starting to get there. I've read estimates of between 4-8 hours polishing per linear foot, and so far it looks as though we're at the longer end of that range. And it's 26 feet long! As this is still just with the coarse polish, you can see the swirl marks up close. Hopefully with the next pass these will disappear.
  7. Likewise with my '93 TD estate. But the connector was there in the driver's door to plug in a mirror. Or so I thought... Turns out the loom split into two, so operating the switch moved both mirrors identically! I can only think they did this so they could use the same loom for both LHD and RHD (with an extension section) versions, but still have a differently sided electric mirror on each. I think it was only the 16v (and mine after much wiring) which had twin electric mirrors.
  8. That's impressively quick and neat looking work. It'd probably take me about that long to slap a patch over it all!
  9. I've given the inside of the door a good squirt of Dynax S50, and hung it on the van after greasing all the roller and hinge bushes. The dent to the previous door I think had distorted the frame slightly, as I could never get it to shut without a hefty slam, no matter how I adjusted it. So after an hour or so of tweaking the newly fitted door, it was rather satisfying to be able to shut it smoothly, for the first time in my ownership! But, there is a problem. A freshly painted door makes the rest of the paintwork look tatty, not helped by bitumen splatters last year after driving on a newly tarred road in heavy rain. We are in serious danger of mission creep! The green paintwork was done in 2013, so has lasted reasonably well for a quick job.
  10. The door hardware is now assembled and fitted to the door, and I've insulated it also. One of the welds around the handle mechanism has a crack, so welding that up is all that's stopping me fitting it. I started to weld and promptly ran out of gas, so will have to go and get some tomorrow. It's struck me that a possible reason for the long brake pad life could be the fact the caliper pistons are rusty! This is pretty disappointing, as I fitted new calipers in 2013, and I rarely take it out in the salty winter. The pistons don't even seem to have any plating, so have rusted at the first sign of water. The dust seals had popped off on this side, being (not) held on by a wire spring clip. The new seals have a rigid portion, which is a slight interference fit on the caliper body. If the effort to fit them is an indication of how well they'll stay on, they should be ok! Both pistons are now moving freely, so onto the original job of pad replacement. One side down!
  11. It's not going to be a quick job, but today we've started the polishing process! Probably around 2-3 hours work, and I've done the band extending to the edge of the door. This is just the first pass too, with coarse polishing compound. But it's exciting to make progress at last!
  12. Other things have got in the way of this somewhat over the last few months, but life is a bit less hectic at the moment so progress has been made. First up was quite literally a shitty job. Very few photos early on, as I didn't want to be handling my phone. But the toilet had been bodged to 'seal' to the black tank below, in a pretty poor way. This is the opening in the floor, with the tank underneath, threaded inlet visible. What should connect into this is a corresponding threaded flange, which is then screwed to the floor to prevent strain being taken by the tank. Like this (did I mention that I love how spares are still available?) The base of the toilet (basically a flanged tube with a ball valve at the top) is secured down with T bolts, which I'm temporarily using to clamp a piece of wood to, in order to twist it. On the old part, the flange had been cut away leaving just the threaded part. This then fitted loosely inside the toilet base tube - I'm talking 5mm or so clearance kinda loosely, and the resulting gap filled with thick yellow grease. The toilet was then screwed directly to the floor with 4 wood screws, which had pulled through the ply. After cleaning everything up, I could put the new flange in place. The ply had started to delaminate slightly around the hole, so I've used wood hardener to give it a bit more strength, also PU adhesive to bond it to the floor. New gasket on top: And the base of the toilet could be bolted up. But first I needed to overhaul the flush valve, which operates when you press the pedal. Fairly straightforward; you can buy new but around £60 vs a few pence worth of O rings which I already had in stock. Also, the seal at the bottom of the pan, which although still functioning, surely wouldn't last much longer. New gasket and seal arrived... ...and were fitted, so that the toilet could be refitted. The foot pedal also operates the ball valve with the flush. The ball is still smooth, and I've smeared it with silicone grease to lubricate the initial fry operation. The ceramic pan (weight saving not on the design brief) was then clamped on top. Followed by a new seat, again easily available although at a cost. £70 for a loo seat! It had better be comfortable! It's yet to be tested, but I'll spare you the photos of that...
  13. Bodywork, even to my mediocre standards, always seems to take forever. There were a few chips on the edge of the door from handling, so I've sanded those back and primed. Next stage was to apply the top coat. Again I've gone for Rustoleum Combi-color, mainly for ease of application. Getting the colour on was the quickest part of the whole job! While that's hardening I've been stripping down both sets of latch and sliding mechanisms, and using the least worn parts from each to make a good set. I'll keep the rest of the bits as usable spares, as the parts which aren't shared with the Bay window vans are getting a bit scarce. Brake caliper pistons have arrived so can finish that job too hopefully this weekend.
  14. The front doors aren't too bad thankfully (although free is always tempting!)
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