mat_the_cat

Is it worth it though? Some of my lowest mpg tankfuls have been the most fun

Partly that, and partly as I often tend to do the work at a different time to when I buy the parts (preventative maintenance anyway) hence have forgotten the costs. I do still keep the receipts, so I guess if I was ever bored could match them up...

It's a bit late now (sorry) but I find that the relays with a built in LED are really handy for fault finding. You can see at a glance whether the problem is with the switching circuit, or the circuit being switched.

The ironic thing is I'm not doing it for potential resale value, as I (almost) never sell anything! Just for sheer geekery I guess...

Am I a sad bastard for recording everything in Excel?

The local MR had been asked to support a local mountain race again, so to help with transport I offered to take some other members up with me. It doesn't look too bad in the photos, and all the vehicles made it up OK. Although it was commented that mine seemed to go up more easily. I'd like to claim that it was purely down to driver skill, but in reality more likely the rear diff. I was able to creep along a little slower than the others without needing to rely on momentum, instead of spinning a wheel and then lurching forwards when grip is restored. Really impressed. The other good thing was how smoothly it rode with 4-5 people aboard. I hadn't noticed a massive difference when i replaced the springs with parabolics, but I've only really been driving it empty. It actually felt almost smooth when laden!

You may be able to find a direct replacement fuse box with blade fuses - I was able to do so with my Land Rover by searching by the original Lucas part number. It was on an US site called Torque Resto who listed a few replacements.

It's fed from a 120V transformer of a fairly low wattage. Can't recall exactly what, but it's fused appropriately! You are right that it's now 50Hz, but it'll likely only be used with the pictured USB chargers (which American guests left in the cottage). If we do get Americans staying I will warn them!

We've not yet set a start date, but the listing is now live! https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/1015249413942066636 Any useful feedback welcome...

My original RV8 engine was an SD1 block, but fitted with a suitable cam to drive a mechanical pump, so the engine number doesn't necessarily mean it's incorrect. I binned the pump as I had the opposite problem, but in the past (different engines) I've been surprised at how little movement the cam provides versus the full range of movement possible by hand. I wonder if it's simply tired, and operating by hand is masking that as you're moving the arm more?

The solution to this was to recalibrate the rev counter. I'd previously done so be adding in a resistance across part of the circuit. So I now needed to do away with those, and to avoid any calculation errors I thought best to solder in a variable resistor. I chose to mount that on top of the instruments inside the dash pod. Relatively easy access, but hidden when the cover is on. I then connected my multimeter to the coil set to measure rpm, and tweaked the resistor until they matched. The resulting value was fairly close to what I'd had originally, so within the resistor tolerances. It does show that I now need to up the idle speed, which will help with the tendancy to stall it when I have the AC running.

That's a good shout, it does sound a bit tinny like that. I will report back...

Not so much puffing, but there is noticeable pressure behind. So it's either too much for the breather system, or it's blocked. Don't know whether it's cause for concern at this stage...

I've never heard that noise so can't be sure, but I don't *think* so. I'd say it's in an area of the engine with thin metalwork around it, as it doesn't seem deadened by a thick casting if you get what I mean?

I thought they were seen as a bit more mainstream than a GSA or CX TBH.