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mat_the_cat

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About mat_the_cat

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    Rank: Renault 16

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    Male
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    Riding the trough of the fashion wave
  • Interests
    Anything with wheels or an engine...

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    United Kingdom

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  1. Why would it? A correctly functioning thermostat would just close off to some extent once it dropped below temperature. If you think about it, a radiator should be sized to keep the engine cool whilst towing a trailer up a hill in the middle of summer, so most of the time it'll not need the full cooling capacity. Hence it'll spend most of the time partly shut.
  2. The liquid injection system sounds a very I interesting idea. It's something I wondered about years ago, but when I googled it the information suggested that getting injectors with sufficient precision was the difficulty. Evidently it is possible though! Onto the braking system now. The pedal goes straight to the floor, so I'm suspecting that the master cylinder has failed. Ideally I'd like to prove this, but I leant out my collection of bleed screws to a mate pre-lockdown, so can't blank off the outlets to check. It's slightly more cramped than standard, with the LPG ECU, which isolator and control box all in the way. But an easy job to bung on a new one. Unfortunately I've only got half a bottle of brake fluid, so not enough to bleed the system. Insufficient fluid might be the least of my worries, however... What do you reckon the chances are that the bleed screw will come out intact? On all four corners! The pad springs have completely crumbled away, although only changed 10k miles (albeit 9 years) ago. New fitting kits on the way, and hopefully the pistons won't have seized. My experience is that opposed piston calipers tolerate inactivity more than the single piston sliding type. So fingers crossed I don't need a caliper rebuild too.
  3. I have one from the same era Megane I think, if you know whether that will fit? Or you can purchase an adapter to be able to use Sony (amongst others) head units with the original controls.
  4. I'd agree with the thermostat diagnosis normally (you can have as much airflow as you like, but a correctly working thermostat will just close off to keep the temperature up), but fitting two replacements makes this seem less likely! So I'd be checking for incorrectly plumbed pipes, which may allow coolant to bypass the thermostat. Assuming the 'stat is sealing to the housing correctly, and there's nothing significant bypassing it?
  5. Much cleaner burning fuel, hence why is (was?) used for indoor forklifts as an alternative to battery power.
  6. I was going to just bolt the replacement cooler in place, but then I noticed the slam panel support struts were looking a bit crusty. I popped them off to give them a clean up and paint, but I could see they were paper thin. Fortunately readily available new, so I ordered a pair. But before I could fit them, I needed to do an oil change. Why, you might ask? Simple reason being I wanted to protect the inside from corrosion, and immersing them in hot oil seemed an easy and cheap way of doing so! I drained the oil and changed the filter, making sure I followed the warning sticker! Then once the support struts had marinated for an hour or so, I fitted them with new stainless fasteners, and the replacement cooler. I was pleased to see the engine still looks clean inside, a testament to regular oil changes and running on LPG its whole life.
  7. One from a camping holiday in 2003 I reckon, and the best car I've ever sold:
  8. Afraid so, although at least all the fixings will be free. I don't know if there is a source for new pistons, but if they do prove to be the problem then maybe Chevronics would be able to supply second hand. It's been more common at least in my experience, for the outer wall of the cylinder to corrode through - with hindsight I'd have retained the pistons as spares!
  9. The O rings are on the inside of the aluminium cylinder on the left, sealing against the piston in the middle. If this is corroded at the point where the O ring sits whilst the car is in low, this could cause seepage. Assuming the sealing surface is good on the area used at normal height, the leak will disappear.
  10. I never posted up a photo of the installed batteries, so here you go: Today saw another minor milestone (whilst dropping off some food on the doorstep of my self-isolating father in law)... ...and it's now due a service. Looking through the history this will be the 48th oil change, and the 15th I've carried out. As well as the engine oil, the axle and gearbox are due, as is the fuel filter. I also way to change the front wishbone upper bushes which are squeaking, and one of the ball joints which was an advisory on the last MOT. I'm going to leave the gearbox oil alone, as the bearings are a little noisy and I'm planning to replace the whole gearbox this year or next, once lockdown is finished and I can collect the 'box I've found! The cambelt is actually a year overdue, so better change that sharpish. I drained the axle oil... ...and was pleased to note very little debris on the magnetic drain plug... ...but I did notice the oil was very frothy coming out! Not something I've seen before - maybe it's because I've just been on a run rather than indicative of any problems. Still to do fuel filter, cambelt and suspension work, but unfortunately I still have to go to work so lockdown isn't giving me any more free time! I'm making some progress on the green Discovery though, and BX is next in line. Both taken for a spin today on the forest tracks, and positioned in readiness for tinkering
  11. I haven't got any 'growing up' car photos with me, but as a starter here is one from around 20 years ago, helping my then girlfriend (now wife) move house. It's amazing what we squeezed into her 205 and my tiny trailer!
  12. The gearbox oil cooler on the blue one I replaced not long before the rollover, so I removed that today. It's still got an oil/water heat exchanger built into the radiator, so I think the one in front of the radiator is likely overkill unless you're towing. So I have just replaced it with a length of hose - I believe the pressure is fairly low so jubilee clips should suffice. It had started to show some light rusting after 10 years, so I dipped it in Deox C, and gave it a coat of paint to extend the life. The old one has pinholed through with rust between the 'bog brush' and ends of the tube. It may be weldeable if the rest of the metal isn't too thin, so not binning it just yet.
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