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Eddie Honda

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Eddie Honda last won the day on May 3

Eddie Honda had the most liked content!

About Eddie Honda

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    Rank: Lancia Gamma

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  1. They are Apex Tool Group rebranded. It's owned by a private equity group. IIRC the tools are made in Taiwan.
  2. The current theory is that it's still with its 2015 seller.
  3. Here's a pic (eye-bleach available from your local pharmacy): http://doublebooth.blogspot.com/2015/01/a-fool-and-his-money.html Moar pictures if you can stomach it here: https://www.andre-citroen-club.de/forums/topic/100508-ds-wohnmobil-unglaublich/ In its "better" days:
  4. ^^^^ this. A home built abomination with DS (edit Citroen ID, the cheap DS)
  5. That's the way to start a letter. Good boy. :Thumbs up:
  6. I wouldn't bother contacting the RSPCA.... I'd contact the SSPCA because Scotland.
  7. Can I borrow those pics? - as I've just noticed that the FCF doesn't have them on their wiki... https://frenchcarforum.co.uk/wiki/XM_and_Xantia_Strut_top_failures
  8. Do you really think they do? Are the well staffed* and funded* local Trading Standards team checking up on them to see if they comply? 'should' is a world apart from reality. Especially given all those careful* and considerate* users that use the paid-for machine correctly.
  9. You're placing a massive amount of faith in the forecourt pump. They must be the most abused and inaccurate machines know to man or beast!
  10. And if it doesn't turn up....
  11. Aye, you win this week's Statement of the Bleedin' Obvious Award. 🏆 What of it? Is that your exclamation of "cheap", "dear" or "I could buy 400 cars for that!"???
  12. Round 2. This was a bit harder. First moar fire. Then remove all the flaky rust. Look at the state of that now, what hope have I got? As the diameter is a bit smaller than the last due to corrosion, I'm having a bit of bother getting the socket to grip, so it's down from a 12mm to 10mm (as I have no eleven in this set although you can get them) This while gripping, doesn't have enough depth onto the socket, so although it starts to turn and loosen off, it's shredding the end of the nut. As the flange of the nut has a gap behind it now, I can jump up to the 17mm and grip the shoulder. And the second one is off. The threads on the studs are fine for reuse and I haven't touch the hacksaw. Koken Nut Twister sockets (3/8" drive on rail RS3127/7) 9/10. Whilst they are pricey, they come in more gradual sizings than the Irwin Bolt-Grips. Ideally I'd have got better purchase on the nut with a 11mm, but managed to work my way round that. To use these successfully you need to use a size that is a good tight hammer-on fit and not at all slack. Infinitely better than having to dick around sawing/grinding/drilling those studs out and saves loads of time.
  13. As previously reported, Mrs H noted that the Jizz had got noisier and the exhaust might need looking at. I examined the exhaust at the rear of the rear flange and at the side near the hanger ahead of he middle silencer (they can stress crack inside the weld there) and decided to put it on the long finger. After coming back from the Jaaag weekend Sunday 5th May, I returned to work that afternoon only to receive calls/messages from Mrs H that the exhaust had fallen off the car at the back. As it was a short distance from the house, instructions were given to return home with the car. Lots of grumbling was had about the episode as Honda Jr 2 had to get to the GP for an appointment (and later hospital). On returning home at 2am, I could see what the problem was in the headlamp beam of the BM. The problem with the exhaust was not my welding (indeed that was still doing its job) but it had split next to the weld on the adjacent flange which is part of the middle section, so a plan was considered to get the welder out again. This turned out not to be necessary as I had another exhaust to pinch from the old Jizz. For a few days the car went sans backbox to keep mobile. In the meantime I went to the local motor factors the following day, Mon 6th, to sort out some gaskets. Stuff was ordered and collected on Wed 8th. This ended up being a fat-fingered fuck-up because instead of getting the ones I wanted - Bosal 256-520, the man had ordered 256-250, they looked the same, but they were fook all use to me as they're 10mm smaller and for a Yaris. Getting the correct bits added a couple more days to the wait, so it was Fri 10th before I was ready to start on the job. As this is a keeper, I wanted to get hold of a Honda middle section, so went online hunting for part numbers/prices, starting with Lings. They were €218, and others online similar. Whilst doing this, I thought I'd price up other service items needed. Given that Cox's wouldn't ship an exhaust because of size I thought I'd drop the local Honda stealer, Fitzpatrick's an email. Sent one off at 5am Fri 10th and didn't get a reply by 4pm, so I chased them up on the phone. The Parts Manager said the first one wasn't received so I resent the email which he replied back to 40 minutes later with surprisingly cheap prices for Honda (you can see below I was €130 over with my guesstimate), but being a Friday and 5pm this had knocked delivery of the pipe into the Wed 15th / Thu 16th. Paid over the phone and arrange to collect them the following week. I got a call on Thu 16th, but it only rang once before I had a chance to answer. I planned to go down on Friday (usual day off), but as I got there just after one o'clock, there was nobody on the parts desk as they all had cleared off for lunch. Reception couldn't help me, so I had to go all the way back to pick up Honda Jr 2 from school at 2pm and make another round trip to the dealer. Back to the 11th May: The next problem was the cat. The front cat section is attached to the middle by three studs and nuts which are a cunt to undo and a lot of exhaust places can't be arsed and rather sell a new one. The correct course of action is remove the middle + cat completely and do the separation off the car. A dry run was performed on the old Jizz as it was already up on axle stands. The wasn't too much effort and quite easy, the same couldn't be said of the flange nuts, so out with the hacksaw... Three nuts sawn off and it could be separated. However now I had three broken studs to deal with. Out with the hacksaw again... No luck. Drill time. After a lot of fannying around with drills, I get eventually get the bastards out. Those studs are splined... Armed with three fresh bolts and some copper locking nuts I was good to get on with the actual swap. While working against the weekend free-time clock under the car last Sunday, a neighbour came round to offer to cut the grass. I hadn't done it this year so far and it was embarrassingly long. I have no shame though, but agreed for peace and quiet with Mrs H that he could cut it if it was really no bother for him. After losing a sodding small m6 bolt that held a wiring plug bracket onto the engine and spending an hour or so looking for the bastard that fell, but not to the ground, I robbed one from the old Jizz and finished up. Got to work a couple of hours late to boot, but nobody was too fussed as Sunday is quiet. Doing a quick test before I left, it was noted that the EML was lit. Ah bollocks, time to get my Chinese knock-off Honda HIM / HDS out, the only problem being I had to junk the last shit Toshiba lappy out, so I had nothing with the HDS software on to use. I do have an old Eee PC900 netbook handy, so gave that a whirl this weekend. That was shit and coming up with error messages of its own, so I've spent most of this weekend melting my head trying to get it running and talking to the HIM (which it isn't so far) to get the codes out of it. It'll be something to do with the pre/post oxygen sensors or wiring, but which exactly, I don't know. The cat/middle exhaust taken off this car merited a different approach to the flange separation. Of the three locking flange nuts, the top one corrodes the least. I was able to hammer a socket over this one and actually undo it. The lower pair which gets the road shit, needed something else - namely big fire and the right tools. Time to try out those Koken Nut Twisters against these two rusty nuts. Fire up the fire Select a tight fitting nut twister and hammer it on. Feel it bite more and crack the nut loose And off
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