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1 hour ago, C1am said:

Which Ford is this from?  14" trim, dated 1996. 

Wheels 004.JPG

I think they were on some fairly base (maybe dealer special edition) Escorts.

EDIT- Just had a quick look and seen a couple of Escorts with these fiited, Encore and "Silhouette" models.

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1 minute ago, Wingz123 said:

Anyone got any idea how I get these wiper blades off? They are 22" aero blade wipers on my Audi A6 Avant but didnt want to inadvertently break something if I'm not doing it right...

20190918_184415.thumb.jpg.389917f89a14a0bceaa38a76e3228475.jpg

 

20190918_184411.thumb.jpg.7316bfa2816ec6e76d3ba74a0cbc4ee9.jpg

 

On some of these aeros the bit covering the hook is on a hinge - lift it at the arm end and it should expose the wiper arm hook.

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12 hours ago, Wingz123 said:

Anyone got any idea how I get these wiper blades off? They are 22" aero blade wipers on my Audi A6 Avant but didnt want to inadvertently break something if I'm not doing it right...

20190918_184415.thumb.jpg.389917f89a14a0bceaa38a76e3228475.jpg

 

20190918_184411.thumb.jpg.7316bfa2816ec6e76d3ba74a0cbc4ee9.jpg

 

You might need to put the wipers into service mode, so they clear the bonnet. Depending on the age it's either in the onboard dash computer or you press the single sweep wipe after just taking the key out. 

Depending on the design, the aero blades can either simply unhook after bending the blade away or you remove a cover. 

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On 9/19/2019 at 7:48 AM, SiC said:

You might need to put the wipers into service mode, so they clear the bonnet. Depending on the age it's either in the onboard dash computer or you press the single sweep wipe after just taking the key out. 

So that is what is happening in my* Peugeot partner occasionally when it have taken the key out. 

Thanks for the information, now I know why.

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Bit of tools advice required..

Thinking of getting a torque wrench, at present only have up to 3/8 sockets, will a 3/8 wrench do most of what is required on a car or do I need a 1/2 and adaptor or set of sockets, thinking head bolts, wheel bearings etc..

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I have both 3/8" and 1/2" drive torque wrenches because they each cover a different range.  The 3/8" I naturally use where fastenings need to be evenly but lightly tightened, such as aluminium engine covers and the con rod / big-end bolts.  It's a nice and compact tool to handle and so I use it a lot.   But I use the 1/2" occasionally too because the 3/8" doesn't go up high enough for some cylinder head nuts, cam-belt adjusters, flywheel bolts, drive train and suspension parts which all too often have nuts requiring torquing to 80ft-lb or more.     Check workshop manual(s) of your own particular vehicles (presently owned and what you might reasonably aspire to) to see what range you're most likely to need.  I have used the down-sizing adapter on my 1/2" torque wrench  to 3/8" a few times so that I might use a more compact six-point socket,  but I've never used the up-sizing adapter on my 3/8" torque wrench.  

In case you are not aware : it's important to unwind the adjuster on each torque wrench fully after use (each time you put it back in your tool cabinet) so its internal springs do not take on a set (stretch). If it does then its calibration goes out the window.  

You can check the calibration when new ..and subsequently through the years, simply by clamping its square drive in a vice and hanging a known weight on the handle. Move that in or out until the torque wrench clicks and then the :  weight x distance = what the adjustment should read.  

Pete.

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Does anyone have experience with digital torque wrenches? I have not bothered previously unwinding my existing torque wrenches so I don't know if I can trust them anymore but I assume a digital one would remain accurate forever*.

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We have an electronic torque/degree wrench in our workshop, it is probably good in production lines type stuff but generally folk find it too much of a faff about and just use old style micrometer wrenches and a degree reader if needed. Mebby if used more it would be easier to set.

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My trigger finger is hot.  Might actually buy a Rav 4tomorrow with a hangover.  Vehicle desperation is happening.  03 plate, high miles, estate version, family owned, history etc.  A grand.  Talk to me.  The bus (two every morning) can no longer happen.  Nightmare.  And as usual, there are no live sales on here.  So.....

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Smoll FL's C3 was diagnosed with a rusting through sump as part of the MOT, looks like a pattern replacement or second hand part are the same price, are the new ones made of best chinesium or are they Ok?

Also thinking about pressure washing the blocked DPF off the C4GP, any recommended chemicals that will release the grot? Oven cleaner? Egr cleaner?

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26 minutes ago, Floatylight said:

Smoll FL's C3 was diagnosed with a rusting through sump as part of the MOT, looks like a pattern replacement or second hand part are the same price, are the new ones made of best chinesium or are they Ok?

Can't speak of the exact pan you need but the pattern sump I bought for the astra earlier in the year was very well made out of nice thick material and came with a new sump plug and washer. Based on that experience I'd have no hesitation in buying a pattern sump again. My old sump was so rotten when I went to undo the plug to drain the oil I ripped a chunk of rusty metal out of the sump rather than unscrewing the plug!

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I’ve got a Lexus with air suspension (which gives me the fear) and recently it’s been making a noise like a ball joint is on the way out, just a god awful creak, but only when I turn right. But no other symptoms of a worn ball joint. Tonight I raised the car to high mode, just on a whim, and the creak seems to have gone.

Do you think this could be an early sign of an airbag on the way out, or that last time it lowered it folded weirdly (if that’s even possible?)




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Is this the place to ask about Honda lawnmower motors ?

Honda Izy been faithful and hardworking for the past 14 or so years, but this evening it without forewarning ..that I might have noticed,  it didn't want to start easily nor run steady. I thought Ia bit of something might be blocking the fuel line (again !)  until 20 minutes into the harvest of God's green lawns outgrown,  it spued a spray of oil out of the exhaust, covering the whole of the top and deck of the machine.  I guess that's a ring broken or a hole, but it still runs.

Bottom line is it worth just throwing away and buying another used one, or is there someone giving pistons and barrels away for free ?    

I'm thinking I might know the answer to this one, particularly as me old mojo has been below the horizon for the past six months and doesn't look like things are getting any boost.   

So new bottom line.. Does anyone want it ?   Ip6 near Ipswich.   NB. it measures 17" across under deck.

 

p.s. Sorted thanks

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^

p.s.  does anyone have a usable 16" Honda Izy (self propelling) for sale ?   ..again I'm Ip6 near Ipswich. 

 

p.p.s. Sorted thanks

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Help! I'm confused about what oil to use on the Saab 9-3 1.9 TiD, there seems to be both 5/30 and 5/40 listed and some of them seem to be petrol or diesel, I thought it needed to be a low SAPS, any ideas / recommendations?

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My heated rear window only works on alternate strips. 

IMG_20191201_145554.thumb.jpg.700b16740465a71dcadb9fa3f6b95c67.jpg

If I was to run some copper tape, like you use for model railways or dolls houses, along the edge of the strips, thus joining the working ones to the non working ones would it, 

a) restore the non working strips

b) short out the whole system setting fire to the car within seconds. 

Or c) have no effect whatsoever. 

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33 minutes ago, Yoss said:

My heated rear window only works on alternate strips. 

IMG_20191201_145554.thumb.jpg.700b16740465a71dcadb9fa3f6b95c67.jpg

If I was to run some copper tape, like you use for model railways or dolls houses, along the edge of the strips, thus joining the working ones to the non working ones would it, 

a) restore the non working strips

b) short out the whole system setting fire to the car within seconds. 

Or c) have no effect whatsoever. 

id say it may work (tho this is legally non binding!)

my only concern is how much current does each strip draw, and can copper tape handle that load

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I've the same problem with the rear window element... They do sell paint type kits and tape type kits, I just put the blowers on full blast and windows open a tadge. But put the blowers on cold before parking up on a cold night, supposed to stop it condensating as much 

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20 hours ago, Yoss said:

If I was to run some copper tape, like you use for model railways or dolls houses, along the edge of the strips, thus joining the working ones to the non working ones would it, 

a) restore the non working strips

b) short out the whole system setting fire to the car within seconds. 

Or c) have no effect whatsoever. 

Use a multimeter to find the break point in each interrupted wire, then paint it with silver ink. Available also in pen form, not sure if the pen will "write" on glass.

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Dilemma:

Multipla mot booked in for Tuesday. Handbrake is being a bit of twat and binding on one side. Replaced caliper. Still binding slightly and properly need to adjust the balance of the cable as the other side comes on way before the problem side. Also, the sodding airbag light is on. Tried to clear with MultiScan Ecu and red jumper cable but intermittent low voltage on driver and passenger side airbags wont clear.

Any ideas how to proceed on the airbag issue?

Finally I've been offered a £500 Cat D repaired '09 Astra 1.9cdti 150 3 door with 150k miles. Will have 12m mot after the weekend.

You can see what I'm thinking, park the Multipla and run the dizAstra for 12m and wait for the Fiat to fix itself.

What you lot reckon?

 

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