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Everything posted by vulgalour

  1. Old radiator fan switch is dead. No worries, new radiator comes with a fan switch... which is dead. No worries, I'll order a new fan switch... which is dead. I wonder how many switches I have to buy to find a good one and I wonder how long it will then last? Fixed* the problem with a length of suitable wire with connectors on each end so the fan is constantly running.
  2. I wonder how the insurance company will view it. If there's no damage to your elderly fragile old classic and a gurt big scrape on his fancy new car, it might look a bit insurance fraudy so it's anybody's guess what the outcome would be. If you've nothing to repair on your car and aren't making a claim yourself, then it's going to look very odd that the bigger, modern car needs to make a claim for damage. I suppose all you can do is be honest and see what happens.
  3. I wonder why that Zagato appears to have a number plate behind the front bumper? Also, I never knew the rear window opened like that, what an excellent spot.
  4. You jest, but it's on my sewing project list as something to make. Ideally need a decent brown gabardine or similar to make it from.
  5. What a thoroughly disreputable old heap. Top chodding and congrats on the pass.
  6. Hoorah! I hope you enjoy it. I'm chronically short of time at the moment so the Wedgister is very neglected and out of date. I will update it eventually, I just need to magic some time from somewhere.
  7. These are my two new favourite words.
  8. I really can't fault the quality of the product you get from Autosparks, it's a lovely thing and a shame to have to hide it away really. One thing to be aware of (I'll be covering it in a future update) is that the new wiring is marginally thicker than the old so on the Lanchester it was a bit of a bear to get through the guide holes in the wooden frame since it's so much tighter a fit. Because we weren't dismantling the entire car to do the wiring, we couldn't get tools in to open up the wiring route holes. It might not be a problem on the P4 since I believe they're all steel? The other issue I had is that the harness doesn't come with enough grommets of the correct size to replace all the ones the wiring goes through and I think I'll need a few extra connectors than are provided. This might just be vagaries with our car compared to a completely untouched one though, rather than any sort of fault with the Autosparks product, and Autosparks do sell all the connectors you'd likely need for a reasonable price given the apparent quality of components.
  9. Wiring part one, do check out the video above because it makes more sense of it than the words and pictures do. This is a very three dimensional sort of a job. We'd already identified that the only inoperative items on the car were the interior light and the horns. The interior light was probably dirty contacts, the horns were because they were dead so replacements were acquired that work. The decision had already been made to get a new harness which is available off the shelf from www.autosparks.co.uk to factory specification. More on that later. The trouble Pat and I were facing with the Lanchester is that the various electrical items on the car were becoming temperamental and, in some cases, totally inoperative. We knew the wiring was bad and we now had a new wiring loom to go in. What we didn't know for definite was the physical wiring route. Much of this is a one-person job, unfortunately, by its nature. I'd had more time free than Pat so I got the lion's share of all the grubby work getting the old wiring out. To give you some idea of what we're working with, here's a look at the state of play. The big knob to the left is the cowl fresh air vent, the round thing behind with the white handles is the heater box, and to the right is the steering column, this is all underneath the dashboard. A lot of the wiring uses bullet connectors for the various sections. Some are in reasonable health, many aren't, and some of the new wiring goes into old bullet connectors to join up to the old wiring. The new stuff is the plain colour, the old is the one with the neat zigzag patterning. It's not pretty. What's worse, there's been a lot of confusion for Pat and I due to a previous owner's modification to the wiring and with very little in the way of photographs to compare with what's on our car it has taken a while to figure out what's going on. When the video was recorded we had a rough idea, now that we're a lot further on in this job we have a much better idea of what's going on. What we can't make sense of is why it was done this way when there was a far simpler solution. I digress. The little white choc-bloc thing isn't original and what the wires are doing going in and out of it isn't original either. That also means that up at the voltage regulator where the two fuses for the wiring live, connections there aren't exactly as they ought to be either. This is in the engine bay on the driver's side, just above the steering column. That mass of wiring goes through the bulkhead to join up with the spaghetti in the cabin. Here you can see it draped over the steering column. Pat and I suspect this is an unfinished job and it may be that whoever started it planned to remove all of the wiring and were working through a section at a time. We'll likely never actually know. Luckily, much of our guess work is taken out by the new harness. Unluckily quite a lot of new guess work is put in because the new harness doesn't come with labelling or instructions, diagrams, or any indication of what section is for what beyond a wire colour decoder on Autosparks' website. We're told this is normal because it's OEM replacement and since this is our first venture into this sort of thing we have no experience to tell us otherwise. If we were replacing an original harness this likely would have been less of a problem, as it is it created quite a headache. We have opted to have wiring added for flasher relays and a power outlet, our only concessions to modernity. The front sidelights will become combination sidelight-indicators since there are magic bulbs that do that now, and we'll have some hidden brake and indicator lights at the back, probably in the rear window so it's at eye height for the modern driver. We'll be retaining the functionality of the semaphores and the car will look exactly as it does now, it will just be that little bit safer in modern traffic. These additions are the only labelled items on the new harness, but at least that removes a little confusion for us. After an embarrassingly long time of laying out the new harness and trying to figure out what went where I had to admit defeat. I couldn't figure out what exactly was supposed to go where physically on the car and, not knowing the actual route of the wiring, the lengths of the new harness weren't really giving me any clues. Best bet, I decided, was to just start removing the old harness and go from there, it would be easier with both harnesses side by side and if I labelled as I went confusion should be minimised. In the engine bay again, the other area of the bulkhead where the wiring pops out is on the passenger side. The lower wiring nips out alongside the washer bottle a previous owner fitted to our car, it didn't have one of those when new. Nor did it have the fuel filter. This wire I'm pointing at feeds the oil pressure sender and the coil. I had to clip off the connectors on the wires to get it through the P-clip that holds the wire and pull it through into the cabin. This is because the P-clip bolt is obscured by the fuel filter and the fuel filter is a two-person job to remove unless you've got longer arms than I have. When the filter was fitted, the fitter didn't make the nuts captive in any way and I don't have a long enough spanner or ratchet combo in the relevant size to wedge and use as a second pair of hands. Also, Pat wasn't available and I don't need the connectors on the old harness anyway since we're replacing it all. Work smarter, not harder. Next then was to figure out how to safely and carefully remove the wiring. I don't know how to draw proper wiring diagrams (yet) so I just drew what I saw as reference. This actually worked out really well for me later when making more accurate diagrams. I used what colours I saw and labelled as I went, removing one wire at a time. This then left the voltage regulator connector thingy looking a lot more empty. After pulling the wires through into the cabin that needed to go that way, and leaving the others in the engine bay, I had a colourful selection of tagged wires. I then bundled the wires together that had been together previously to keep some semblance of order to the harness to hopefully help in decyphering later. This is what you might call painstaking and I'm sure some folks would have just happily pulled everything out and thrown it away. Because Pat and I are doing this basically for the first time, we thought more caution was better, especially since we haven't a deadline to meet. "VR" for Voltage Regulator and the number to indicate which location it is on the block, 1 being at the top. The wiring diagram labels it differently to this, I did it this way so I could understand it and kept the same labelling throughout all my diagrams, at least that way my diagrams wouldn't confuse me. Back inside the cabin again (there was a lot of getting in and out of the car to do this job) I could now look for more of the wiring and see how it should be routed better. Some of the original wiring was still in place and I could see it should be secured tidily under the dashboard in more P-clips. I do show the route a bit more clearly in the video, it's difficult to capture here in static photos. I am also building a physical layout diagram for the wiring which will be freely available to help other Lanchester owners decypher the job on their cars since it was pretty much impossible to find that information when trying to do it on ours. That bit of the harness I'm pointing at above is behind the passenger glovebox, it branches off and exits the bulkhead into the engine bay again for the wiper motor. What I didn't know is that you can disconnect these wires without removing the wiper motor, but it looks like someone has had the motor off before and when it was reinstalled the wires were tucked in such a way that it wasn't clear whether or not the motor had to be removed. The motor comes out by undoing just two nuts inside the car, or in our case one nut because one was missing and looks to have been missing for quite some time. I then basically had the whole of the dashboard wiring disconnected as well as any of the wiring that went from the dashboard to the outside of the car. It was looking considerably tidier. Having the wiring out of the car highlighted how bad some of the connections really were. The old wiring is very brittle and the insulation quite fragile in a lot of places. The heater box was also removed, on our car that meant disconnecting the two water pipes in the engine bay, and undoing the three nuts. We could then disconnect the two wires and remove the whole unit. The core of the heater has failed so it needs repairing which we'll get done when we finally get the radiator done, probably at Bryans since they're local-ish and highly recommended. The interior was looking considerably tidier now. I should mention at this point I had removed the front seats which made access a lot easier and I was incredibly glad of the carpetting I'd installed, my back thanked me very much for not being jabbed by random bits of floor during some of the fiddlier bits of wire extraction. With the front of the cabin basically dealt with, I turned my attention back to the engine bay. The horn wiring was already removed, this runs up the sides of the radiator support normally to where the horns live on either side. I wanted to remove the wiring for the lights since they were the furthest items from the bulkhead and would allow me to work my way back. First of all, I had to figure out the route. Starting from the bulkhead, the wiring runs down the outside of the steering column and is usually held on with some pear shaped clamps which are long gone on our car and replaced by plastic cable ties instead. It then snakes around the steering box and into a box section that forms part of the front wing support. You can just see it looking like a brake flexi hose above the lever arm damper with the shiny bolt here. That shiny bolt is an incongruous thing too, the car came to us with that in there so we don't know if just the bolt or something else was replaced. Some of the wiring goes another route. For the headlights on the driver's side, a spur should branch off and go up into the wing support bracket and to the headlight. Another spur goes above the support bracket, through a clip, and to the sidelight unit. For the passenger side, the wiring loom runs under the radiator support bracket and repeats the wing support bracket route. However, on our car there's been some chicanery and the route is a little more complicated for the headlight wiring which goes in and out of the original harness, and alongside it, and has a weird meeting of spade connectors and a switchback. It's a mess. The route is fundamentally original, while also being overcomplicated for no good reason. The side light wiring goes up through the base of the stalk and into the bowl on the top of the wing. To access it, unscrew the screw, pop off the lens, and then twist-release the bulb holder. Once the bulb is out you can see the phenolic disc that the wiring is soldered to. In our case, new wiring has been crimp-connected to old wiring and enough solder has been used that the phenolic disc can't be removed without desoldering it. The little copper wire ring is an improvised earth which works when it feels like it, originally there's a copper or brass tang inside the base of the sidelight that does the same job, it's long since fatigued and snapped off on our car on both sides. For the headlight, pull the sprung tab on the bottom of the bezel and then prise the bezel off. We don't have a tab on the driver's side, only the passenger side, and both bezels are so tight you probably don't need the extra security of the tab anyway. This then gives you access to the wiring, in this case three bullet connectors. Two go from the harness to the bulb holder, a third serves as a ground from the bulb holder to the inside of the headlight bowl. The wiring goes through the threaded stem of the headlight and exits into the inner wing. That was as far as we got in the video, so that's where I'll end this wiring update. It's one of those jobs that takes a lot of time and leaves you with very little to show for it. As you can see from the condition of what we're starting with, the rewire is absolutely essential on this car to make it safe and, as much as possible, reliable.
  10. Here's a words-and-pictures update to accompany the most recent video. We are further along with the wiring job than this update suggests. Video update schedule being what it is, you'll just have to be a little patient as we work through it all. I like to have a few episodes in hand with the various projects I've got running, makes it easier to keep track of everything and makes for tidier videos. I've got a Maestro video going out on the 14th, a Sew What? video on the 21st, and Part 2 of the Lanchester's wiring adventure going out on the 28th, all being well. I'm also trying to find the time to get the Lanchester out of the garage to get the wiring a bit further along than it presently is, I had expected to have most things connected and sorted by now and would have had it not been for more fence collapse and a bit of Maestro rot to attend to. Anyway, enough waffle, here we go for those that haven't been able to check out the video for whatever reason.
  11. That reminds me, I found the 'old Citroen' that I'd been told about locally. It's a CX in metallic green, taking a nap in somone's front garden, and the urge to go and knock on the door and ask about it is HIGH even though (on the assumption it was for sale, which it probably isn't) I need that sort of a project like I need another hole in my head.
  12. Three day's graft and it's in paint. There's a tiny bit of filler work I'd like to improve but I decided to draw a line under it while I still had time and weather to get the colour on, I can always go back and do the couple of smidges at a later date. Remember, girls and boys, good enough is good enough. I'll put the bumper corner back on once the paint has hardened a bit, don't want to tempt fate and mess up all that work.
  13. All the welding and grinding DONE. I'm out of filler so I'll have to put the paint on the outside tomorrow. Inside is smothered in sealant and once dry, I can get the inner arch all tidied up. It's been a mission. I'm glad I've done it, learned a bit along the way with this one.
  14. The grinder has washed away all my welding sins and my arch is reborn, clean. I, on the other hand, am absolutely covered in iron filings. Just the bit of sill that blends into the bottom of the arch and one small patch to cap it off and it's ready for sealant, filler, and paint.
  15. Volvo is a nice find. Is the green one a Mk2 Prairie?
  16. New arrival in for reconstructive surgery. It's a partially started kit and has a couple of small optional items missing that I don't want or need Important bit for me is that all of the clear plastic parts are present and intact. Aside from a couple of minor repairs to reattach tiny pieces that had broken off or cracked, it's in pretty good shape. It's nice that all the chrome appears to be present too, that gives me plenty of options for trimming it out. Not going to make an accurate replica of the original car with this, just going to make a 60s style custom with the parts provided, in a lairy metallic of some sort. Should look good alongside my other more ordinary stuff in this scale.
  17. Not perfect, but perfectly good enough. A couple of small pieces to finish, the grinding, sealing, and painting to finish it all off. A very big job that would have been easier if I could have got the proper repair panels for this side instead of making do with front wings.
  18. No more structural socks! Not my finest welding, I'll admit. What matters is there's no rust and it's nice and solid, another pass with the flapwheel when the grinder has recharged, and a smear of seam sealer, will see this up to a perfectly decent standard for what this car is. Not sure if I'll get the arch lip done as well today, I'm still figuring out the best way to use what I've got for that job. Still, it's progress and that's what matters.
  19. It thunderstormed yesterday, the last little brass doodad I needed for the regulator is installed, a test run completed proving it welds nicely and I'm just waiting for my new mask to charge. Here's hoping I can make decent progress on the Maestro before the weather gets too scorchio today. I'm pretty certain this welder originally came from @Ratdat who kindly provided it when I was skint and needed a welder. I then did the same favour for someone else who likewise passed it around until eventually it came back to me just as I was looking to buy another welder. It's been in the wars and hasn't always been stored in a manner conducive to keeping a welder happy and it has just shrugged it all off. Maybe one day it'll get a new torch handle thingy. Maybe one day it'll get a new grab handle on the front. Maybe one day I'll clean it.
  20. The vinyl dye saga continues. Another supplier contacted because they had the quantity required, brusque "out of stock" reply, not even a courtesy apology. Nobody else seems to have the product in the colour I need. I now contact suppliers before ordering and it seems nobody actually has stock of TRG Super Color in Dark Grey (I've ordered about 20 cans so far, received 2 and plenty of refunds, and need another 8 cans to finish the job) regardless of what their listings otherwise say. It's pretty frustrating really. I'm finding more and more lately that things in general are just harder to get, stuff you'd normally pop to the shop for are often not in stock, or the shop has stopped selling them. Online shops are harder to trust than ever with a common occurence of actual stock not matching the stock shown on the website. I know there's a bit of a delay between ordering something and it getting picked, I've worked warehouse so I have some understanding of the logistics. This is more like a company says they have an arbitrary amount, take your order, and then go and look to see if they have it or can get it from somewhere within the timeframe of the delivery. It also seems to be very common practice now, particularly on eBay. something something political sentiment something something At least I haven't encountered a mini pork pie shortage yet, so it could be worse I suppose.
  21. This is right up my alley. Unfortunately, all my eligible vehicles are currently broken taking a sabbatical.
  22. Hooray for progress, even if it is the discovery of yet more speed holes.
  23. Super news on the engine front. Be great to see a new vid when it's running on four when you've put it all back together.
  24. That sounds like the Creaky Strut thing BXs do. There's some info on fixes here: https://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11771 Basically the strut isn't getting lubricated and/or has a bit of dirt lodged (it doesn't take much) that's making a bit of noise as the strut operates.
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