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vulgalour

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Everything posted by vulgalour

  1. Unexpected rust in the sill edge ended up being an easy and quick repair, even got it done before the thunderstorm arrived. Got to wait for the thunderstorm to leave before I can put it all back together again. and then I think I'm MoT ready.
  2. Discovering some more impressive bodge-art, and then replacing it with some of my own to get the job done.
  3. If I weren't still in the window shopping stage of the hunt I'd take you up on the offer. I've got to finish the Maestro and get it sold before starting a new adventure, otherwise I'm going to get overwhelmed with projects.
  4. Here's just about the perfect example of the sort of thing I'm looking for: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125463128662 It's scruffy without being knackered, and in a colour I like, particularly nice to see it on not-silver wheels too. Unlike a lot of MoT exempt cars on the market, this one had an MoT pretty much up until the exemption came in so I at least feel like I'd stand a chance of driving it away. Asking price of just £2k seems quite low, even if it ends up needing welding underneath, and it doesn't appear to have been messed about with so hopefully bodges would be at a minimum. It doesn't really even need anything cosmetically, it could be enjoyed just exactly as it is.
  5. https://www.printables.com/model/258068-austin-princess-interior-light-cover The before is my literally crumbling original lens. The after is a raw print, no sanding or finishing. This is a direct replacement part and, because it's a thing you can 3d print to demand, you can make them any colour you can get the materials you use in. As far as I'm aware, this is the only replacement part out there and this is a part that's been unavailable for quite a long time. Best of all, the download is FREE, so as long as you have access to a 3D printer this part shouldn't cost you a great deal to create.
  6. Vertically opposed (like a Junker) sixteen cylinder but the pistons are in pairs connected to the crankshafts (like a Trojan, but there's two crankshafts instead of one) and it's rear mounted and air cooled (like a Tatra) and there's a supercharger somehow (like a Bentley) and it has mechanical fuel injection (like a Mercedes Benz). I literally cannot imagine what that would sound like.
  7. The references I've seen about the rear seat is a 'lift the dot' fixing in the middle of the seat back at the top that you get to by opening the boot. Seat back can then be lifted up slightly and pushed forwards, or removed completely if you wish. However, it seems the bolt-on-each-side method is decidedly more commonplace because the original method hasn't really stood the test of time for most cars.
  8. Again, it's the parts supply that's the issue with 8/10/Pennant. I did seriously consider a 10, they tick a lot of the boxes, but body panels can be very hard to get hold of and they're not as well supported mechanically. They also seem much more prone to rust than even Minors are. Besides, if I was going to get a Standard it'd have to be a Vanguard beetleback.
  9. @Matty That's good to know actually, I remember you couldn't really get much of anything for them aside from outer sills popping up now and then. Front wings were always hard to come by when I first got interested in this sort of stuff, which was a problem given how rough how many of them were on the market in the 90s/00s. @SiC Badly fitting panels is better than no panels at all. I'm fed up of figuring out how to patch things together from bits that are totally wrong, or having to make whole new pieces from scratch. What I wouldn't give for a badly fitting rear arch repair panel for the Princess, or slightly off door skin bottom repair sections instead of having to figure it all out from nothing.
  10. I'm partial to an A40. If they had better repair panel support they'd be a strong contender, especially since they feel a bit more solid than a Minor and a bit more roomy inside.
  11. Time for the boot lid refurbishment written update. This was part of the car I was actually looking forward to investigating because it would give me a look at how the body was constructed since the boot lid is an ash frame with an aluminium skin. The first job was to remove the dozens of chrome plated flat head screws from the aluminium interior panel so that it could be removed and expose what was going on inside the boot lid. Primarily the reason for undertaking this job was to find out what was happening with the wiring since there wasn't any present for the number plate light when we got the car. We found some weird cocoons. These are probably moth cocoons, they're on the same side as the one bit of moth damage to the wool covering the rear parcel shelf and the moths and caterpillars would have an easy route into the car between the two areas. If you know what these are for definite I'd love to know, because bugs are interesting. It all cleaned off very easily. There was nothing living in the cocoons any more and no signs of any moths in the car or the boot lid so they've probably vacated the premises a long time ago. No damage inside the boot lid either, the wooden frame is nice and solid and dry with no signs of insect damage, the aluminium is in excellent condition and the steel edge that runs around the wood frame and under the aluminium outer skin has little more than a bit of surface rust here and there. The interior aluminium panel has some damage on it, one puncture from the boot lid probably being shut on something inside the boot before we got the car, and a curved line of missing paint that seemed to correlate with the old tyres that were being kept in the boot. You can see the o-ring at the top of the panel here too, that's where the wiring should exit the boot lid. When I drilled some of the chewed up screw heads out, the drill skipped and damaged the aluminium in places. It couldn't be helped, unfortunately. The old screws look to be flat headed chromed steel. While most of them came out, some snapped, and some the heads were too soft from rust and just chewed up. I had to drill some of them out. Interestingly, we were made aware of some sale advert photos from eBay in 2008 when the Lanchester was wearing a differently coloured boot and bonnet. It also sported a much nicer looking rear bumper. When I recorded this video I didn't know about this and could only speculate about the extra bolt holes for the number plate and the chopped off bolt I found inside the boot that had been rattling about. I wonder if the boot lid in the photos is actually a different one to what's on the car at present and the original number plate was swapped over. The boot lid on the car does have a dent that doesn't appear to be there in the photo below and we do know the car was possibly a parts car at one point in its life so it's entirely likely we've got slightly worse parts on the car now than it had in 2008 because the good stuff was sold off or used in another restoration. It happens. Other discoveries were where the wiring should run inside the boot. There's a guide staple on the central beam, and a couple of holes drilled in the frame for the wire to pass through. More on this in a bit. There's no grommet for the wiring to the number plate lamp which simple bolts through the outer skin. I spent some time with an improvised dolly and a hammer to dress out the puncture on the aluminium interior trim as best I could. It's not perfect, but it's not a hole, so it'll do. I have zero experience doing any sort of aluminium bodywork so it is what it is. It was then time to remove the broken screws from the wooden frame before I could refit things. This took a while making use of a pair of pliers. The vast majority of the remaining screws did come out, only a couple snapped inside the frame where I couldn't get to them so that's about the best outcome you can realistically have on a job like this. Everything now cleaned up, it was time to rewire. The wire for the number plate light isn't provided with the wiring loom so I had to buy some more. Since this wire is for the most part hidden, which just a small part visible where it exits the boot lid and hooks up behind the trim under the rear window, I opted for a black vinyl sheathed 2-core since I needed a red and a black wire with a protective covering. I ordered a couple of meters because it's a fairly long run since it goes from the bottom of the boot lid, up to the rear screen, across to the driver's side of the car, then all the way down the inner arch inside the boot to the bottom outer corner where the rest of the wiring loom enters the car. Once the wire is fed through the hole for the number plate lamp, feed it under the vertical beam to the opposite side. Then guide it up (boot lid is upside-down here, the shape meant I had to film it this way) through the hole drilled in the horizontal beam before tightening the bolts for the number plate lamp. There's a staple to hold the wire down to the vertical beam, another hole in the next horizontal beam, and then the wire exits through the hole in the aluminium interior trim where the rubber grommet is in the earlier photos in this update. Once the wire is threaded through, turn the boot lid over and put the push connectors onto the end of the wires. This is very fiddly, there's not a lot of room for the wiring to go inside the lamp housing because of how it's designed. It took me a while to find out what these connectors are called, I found them as Push-in Bullet Connectors on Paul Beck Vintage Supplies www.vintagecarparts.co.uk listed as 560-push on their site search function. These are the same as used on the original headlights and semaphores. To fit, you strip back the sheath from the wire, push the wire through the hole in the connector and then bent the wires back. This gives a friction fit into the holder without need of soldering and works very well. I took a guess at which way around the wires should go and got it right, remember our car is positive earth. After that it was the task of screwing all the dozens of screws in to hold the interior panel in place. I decided against using any sort of sealant or adhesive in the end just in case I have to get in here again for any reason. The first screws I got were just a bit too short so I had to undo them all and redo it with slightly longer screws. I'm also using cross head wood screws rather than the original style of chromed flat head screws. This was a practical consideration since I couldn't get hold of the chromed ones at the time of recording, I may go back and correct this in the future. All back together and looking like none of this ever happened. Sign of a job well done is that. I opted not to repaint the interior trim to avoid project creep. Next up, to do something about the missing trim that goes over the latch mechanism. I have no reference for what this should look like and limited materials so used some hardboard. Trial and error got the shape I wanted. Eventually I'd like more of a pressed blister shaped panel, possibly in steel or aluminium, to full enclose the mechanism since what I've done is okay but I don't think is right. If anyone knows what this should look like, I'd appreciate reference images. I didn't like the colour. I had wanted to use millboard to match the other original bits of trim but didn't have any and couldn't get hold of any at the time of recording, so I just used some satin black spray paint and it got me close enough. With the boot lid now ready to go back on the car, the next thing was to sort out the hinges. We'd knocked out the brass pins to remove the boot lid and found one was bent. Later we learned about the location of the hinge bolts which would have made removal a lot easier. I spent some time straightening the pins as best I could and turning the burr on one end of each into a mild chamfer using a hand file. This would aid in refitting. When we got the car, the hinge pins weren't flush but after some effort, Pat and I had them seated properly and looking much better. The panel I'd made for the interior was cosmetically a waste of time. Practically it should protect things from going into the boot lid a bit more so I don't feel it was a total waste. The other thing we noticed on refitting is that the bolts holding the hinges to the boot lid are incorrect. Instead of a countersunk head, they're a flat bolt head. I don't have any of the correct fixings so just put them back in. With that all finally back together and the wiring ready to be hooked up - which we now know is correct, but I didn't at the time of recording - I could demonstrate how horrible the boot is to use on this car. Lift the boot by the handle at the bottom, it is at an awkward height. Then hold the boot lid with one arm while pulling out the hinge on one side with the other to lock the boot in the open position. Do your very best not to hit your head on the boot lid when putting items in the boot, or removing them. Everything is at the wrong height to make this easy to do and the boot lid will usually get you on your way out. To close, merely brace the boot lid with one hand, push the hinge in without trapping parts of your hand in it, and try to gently lower it to close. You'll probably end up slamming it because you're not expecting the weight and at one point the balance of the whole thing changes and if you're not careful it will try and slam whatever you do. It's a terrible bit of design, both in function and appearance, definitely not one of Barker's finer moments.
  12. Pictures help. I'll be putting a video together when I've finished all the stuff I need to do, so in the meantime here's this. I reckon I'm going to have a go at cleaning all the muck off the exhaust, if it really is stainless steel (from the downpipe all the way back at that) then that definitely improves resale value. The bit of rust at the leading edge of the sill was very well hidden and should be very easy to correct. It's covered up completely so the shape doesn't need to be accurate, just good enough.
  13. I know that now, I didn't know that when recording. The side repeater had welded itself to the wing with dirt too so doing it the way I did was actually easiest. -- Rust busting mission today failed. A tiny filler worm fell off at the front when tapping the new tab for the bottom of the wing into place. Turns out there's some little perforations in the leading edge of the sill I'd not seen due to underseal so I need to clean up and repair that. The holes are barely anything and all localised to a tiny patch but I can't leave that undone now I've seen it. I'll also have to check the passenger side since it's probably the same. Well hidden bit of rot that one, mostly because it's normally covered up with the wing and the arch liner and I only saw it because I was repairing the wing bottom. The bit of rust in the under-boot around the rear exhaust hanger has proved impossible to deal with in the conventional way because my grinder physically won't fit where I need it to so that I can cut the rust out. I'm going to have to get creative with wire wheels and files to deal with that one. It's probably not an MoT failure, I just want it sorted now I know about it. I also learned I need some more flap wheels and other consumables and right now I'm flat broke. It's a combination of factors but basically I'm out of spare cash until work picks up again, which in the current financial climate it might not for quite some time, which isn't ideal. On the plus side, the Maestro appears to have a stainless steel exhaust. I didn't know this because it's filthy, so hadn't seen it until I was under the car today. It might explain why it sounds throatier than my friend's very similar pristine Maestro. That's saved me a bob or two, which is nice.
  14. It's because in my dark haunted inner core I'm still a 90s goth and summer means velvet and leather are off limits which sucks. I tan in five seconds flat too, and I absolutely hate having a tan. Why would I tan so easily when I hate being in the sun so much? It doesn't make sense. Autumn is my favourite season, mostly because I get to wear pretty much what I want, it's rarely too hot or too cold and although it does rain, it can't rain all the time. Winter is a bit of a bummer, balanced out by being able to wear really big stupid coats. Spring is lovely because everything is coming back to life and also hateful because you know Summer is coming. I had considered fleeing north for Summer, I've got a couple of friends north of the border I keep wanting to visit, but I just don't have the funds for it. I've not had a holiday for years in fact. Might happen next year but while I loathe the summer the other half loves it so it might be a solo holiday and that's kinda weird. Generally, I have a 1 week holiday once every 10 years or so, I'm about due again really there's just nowhere I really want to go. Holidays are pretty stressful really, all I ever do is worry about all the stuff I should be doing and all the work that's piling up at home.
  15. This summer has totally kicked my arse, it's my least favourite season and this year has been brutal. The heat has caused technical issues with my work equipment overheating, and caused me health issues, adding to the reduced work capacity. In a way it's a blessing that I'm not getting much in the way of art sales and commissions because I'm not falling behind, but it's also a curse because there are bills to pay. Other friends are getting a bit frustrated with me turning down invitations to events that I want to go to, but can't. I'm getting frustrated with that one too. Broken cars, no money, and no energy are not a great combo I should have already had the Maestro booked in for an MoT but I can't get myself to do the last tiny bit of welding that should only take an afternoon at the most. The Princess is waiting on parts before I can do the next stage of anything with it. The Lanchester is literally gathering dust. It'll all sort, obviously, autumn is coming and with it some cooler days and then I'll be all productive again. July/August is always tough going. I've also been getting a bit annoyed about the assumptions strangers (I know, it's strangers, it shouldn't matter) make about my political leanings because I own three old British cars. They're just vehicles I happen to like. I don't want to have an in depth discussion about The War, football, how women are supposed to be second class citizens, Empire, flag shagging nationalism, what a good job the Tories are really doing, or whatever other right wing bollocks you seem to think I'm going to be interested in. I might be elbow deep in the engine bay of an antique product of an extinct colonialist Empire, but I'm all about respecting pronouns and human rights so you can jog on if you think I'm going to stand for the national anthem. The only Queen you're likely to see a portrait of in my house is Divine.
  16. New headlights arrived, new wiring arrives in a bit. I'm not up to much today, off sick at the moment (nothing serious, happily) but I needed to get some movement and fresh air so decided to have a look at these headlights and how they fit. They're a straight swap. Wiring aside, you literally take the old headlight bowl out and fit the new one in exactly the same way. Could not be easier. You can see the bubbling the silvering on the old bowls here, they're both like it for most of the bottom half which is hardly ideal. Chose domed lenses rather than flat ones so the shape would be correct, I really dislike the look of flat lenses on classics, especially when it's in the teardrop shaped headlights like these. The sidelight bulb sits in the bottom in line with the headlamp clamp and there's so much room inside the headlight bucket that wiring those up isn't going to be an issue. If you know what you're looking for you can tell the difference between old (on the left) and new (on the right). To the casual observer they look totally normal, only the H4 branding and the lens pattern really gives the game away from normal viewing distance. It's a pretty stealthy upgrade really.
  17. That looks like a nice bolt-on solution and not terribly expensive. Given the Lanchester's similarity in size and construction to a Landrover, it shouldn't even be that difficult to make everything go where it needs to physically, I should hope.
  18. It's payday so an additional little Lanchester update here. Because the Lanchester uses 7" headlights it does mean I can upgrade what's there. The original lights are 40/50W BPF bulbs and they're... rubbish. It also doesn't help that the silvering on the bowls is bubbling in places and while we're not likely to drive at night a lot, having your headlights on does make you more visible to other road users who might not otherwise see you so an upgrade makes sense. Originally I was considering re-silvering the headlight bowls and getting new original style light bulbs. The cost of this for what you end up with seemed prohibitive in all honesty. Given how easy it is to acquire a good H4 upgrade kit, and how affordable, it made more sense to modernise. I've gone with the same sort of kit I used on the Princess which I've had no issues with, and while I did have to buy some extra pigtails since the Lanchester wiring hasn't got the modern three slot plug for halogen bulbs, it still came out at a meagre £35. I also opted to go for headlight bowls that have sidelight bulbs in them. Nothing fancy, no LED rings or anything like that, just a single bulb pushed through into the bowl. There's no real need for the sidelights to be separate from the headlights on the Lanchester so it doesn't really matter where they're located and if I move them into the headlights that frees up the original sidelights completely. This then makes wiring up the front indicators a lot easier since I can reuse the original bulb holders and fit some nice bright amber single function LEDs in there. It's a really good location for the indicators since they're high up on the body and very visible and because we'd not be adding any other lights anywhere, it keeps the front of the car looking completely standard. Funnily enough, the sidelights are mistaken for indicators by younger (folks under 40) people anyway, so it makes sense to put them in there for that reason too. What I'm not sure of is whether or not I'll need to fit a relay for the headlights. The H4s will be brighter than the original BPFs but I'm not sure if the draw on the system is going to be such that it will be an issue. I'd welcome opinions and recommendations on this one since I want it to be safe but I also don't want to be adding complexity if it's going to be perfectly fine without them.
  19. The Lanchester is equipped with a Lucas Model SW4 electric wiper motor. We knew it worked when we got the car, but the more it was used, the worse it got. Time to dig into it and find out what's amiss.
  20. Great for farting about in avoiding doing flying missions. I gave up on the series with V, a game I was enjoying so little the more I played it that I just sort of abandoned it. I wasn't even angry at it I was just... meh. It felt too much like work to be fun.
  21. https://autoshite.com/topic/28675-schaeffts-bargain-barge-extravaganza-automotive-archeology/page/24/#comments
  22. Oh, just went out and measured and the Lanchester uses 7" headlights. That made things a whole world easier and cheaper. There's a lot of choice, including headlights with domed lenses so they still look original, and for the price of 3 standard Lanchester headlight bulbs we could have a halogen headlight conversion kit that contains new bulbs, wiring, and headlight bowls where the silvering isn't bubbling. How handy.
  23. In real world time, rather than Youtube time, it's been a while since Pat or I have done anything on the Lanchester. There simply hasn't been time. In some ways that's been a good thing as we've been able to step back and assess possible issues that we were struggling to work out. We've come to the conclusion that the wiring issue probably is a duff ignition switch and given the fact that the kind of switch we need is available, as soon as we have some spare pennies (the other reason Lanchester progress has ground to a halt) we'll get a new one, wire it up, and see if it magically fixes things. If a new switch doesn't resolve the issues then we can be pretty certain the old switch is fine too and move on to more expensive potential failures like the voltage regulator. Process of elimination and all that. In good news, I finally managed to find a replacement rear light lens for the one I dropped and broke. The car came to us with a Lucas 464 lens on one side, and a later Lucas 464a lens on the other. 464 lenses have a thick ribbed glass and no built in reflector or focus dot. 464a has a flat face to the lens, built in reflector and a single focus dot (there are some variants with two focus dots for light units with two bulbs inside, ours has a single bulb hence the single focus dot). As far as we can work out, our car originally had 464 lenses on the back which is why it has the reflectors screwed onto the boot lid, something that wouldn't have been needed with the 464a. Both types of lens are hard to find now, and expensive when they do come up since they were used on prestige stuff and end up with the badge tax applied as a result. They're also glass, and while apparently they are being reproduced in plastic, I'm yet to find a supplier. So when I found the above entire unit for about half the usual asking price of just the lense, I thought it'd be rude not to. Yes, I could have invested that money in a new ignition switch - they're £70-100, depending on seller, even though they're always the same switch - but since the lights are far harder to acquire, it seemed the more sensible purchase at the moment. There is a new Lanchester video arriving on the channel this coming Tuesday, and while it's not wiring it is wiring adjacent and you'll get to see the inner workings of the wiper motor. Another consideration has been on the lighting, which is to convert it from the existing headlights to halogen equivalents. This would allow us to move the sidelights into the headlight bowl and have the indicators in the original sidelights. This would make wiring a lot easier, and eliminate the need for special dual-function bulbs in the sidelights to do sidelight and indicator. More research is required here to find a suitable conversion kit that doesn't look like absolute trash.
  24. I am struggling with motivation lately, and it being summer. I hate the summer. Anyway, had a crack at replacing the handbrake cables today since there's damage to the outer sheath on both sides at the back and I've got spares. Drum came apart nicely and the insides look lovely and clean with no issues, hoorah! Unfortunately I just couldn't dismantle the handbrake cables, I don't have the tools suitable for the job and kind of just gave up. I'm going to leave the spare parts in the car and instruct the garage doing the MoT to replace them if needed for a pass. That leaves me with one tiny spot of welding in the boot that probably isn't even an MoT issue, and the little bottom tab on the front wing that definitely isn't an MoT issue, and it can be booked in. Just need to work up the motivation to haul out the welder. As far as I know there's nothing else of concern on the car and many of the things that might have been a problem have all been addressed so it should go straight through. It's surprising how much work it's needed since its last MoT, I guess that's what happens when you start getting fussy about things being right.
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