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Everything posted by vulgalour

  1. The vinyl roof is the very epitome of "I don't hate it". It's delightful that the 75 has become the chariot of choice for the sorts of owners that lavish attention and as many primary colours as they can cram into a single engine bay with no thought whatsoever to the cost. I'm glad people are still having fun with their cars.
  2. The value of used cars has definitely been increasing faster than average wages/inflation. In some ways its about time, used cars in the UK have been absurdly cheap forever, and in other ways its slightly alarming because I'm one of those people that rely on cars costing less than a month's rent when I need/want a replacement. One positive to the increased value of used cars is that the aftermarket tends to step up and actually start providing parts because the vehicles are now deemed financially viable. This is invariably balanced out by the quality* of the aftermarket parts. As to the original post, yes, newer used cars are realistically more expensive now than they used to be, across the board. It now seems much more common for cars to be cheap for an expensive reason, rather than cheap because they're undesirable.
  3. There will be a proper update in the future. I can happily report that the work on the diagram above paid dividends today and I have almost every wire in the engine bay connected. I also got the stator tube out so I can sort out the wiring in that and repair the horn push that I messed up. I have the dashboard, horns, and brake switch to connect now. It was a lot of work to get as far as I did, and I hope I never have to do anything with the dynamo wiring again since access to that is appalling. Some thinking is needed on the indicators solution too. The wiring isn't an issue except for the fact we can't physically thread both the sidelight and flasher wiring into the sidelight housing for the combination bulbs we wanted to use in there. It's entirely possible there's a simple solution to this and I'm just a bit too tired from all the work done on the rest of the job today to see it. I need to get a few more bullet connectors, bullets, and wiring to finish off the harness completely. No new wiring is provided for the stator tube and it seems silly not to replace that if we're doing the rest. I also need a clamp or block of some sort to go on the bulkhead as per the original set up to keep the wiring harness secure since that item is missing on our car. I'm also not entirely happy with the battery lead that goes to the starter because it just sort of flops around under the car and has obviously been touching the exhaust in the past so that will need replacing and properly securing somehow. Big hurdle cleared on this job today at least, so I'm happy about that. Apologies for the lack of photos, you'll get those when I've edited the video in the future.
  4. I've been struggling to work out the wiring on the Lanchester for some time. The biggest stumbling block has been the lack of colour code key for the wiring and while I'm aware of two diagrams out there, the one in colour uses a different colour key to both the usual BS-AU7 and the colours used in the Lanchester. The one in black and white, even when viewed at the largest size, is impossible to read all of the numbers on so the colour key is almost useless as a result. With that in mind, I decided to employ my skills as an artist to see just what I could do about it. I just needed that moment where I saw the information and it suddenly made sense because up until now, I felt like I was hitting my head against a wall. This is the image I started with. The important thing on this diagram is that the colours I can see the code for do match what's on the new wiring harness and I could see enough different colours that I was moderately confident this would give me a better starting point. After all of the above work, I also went through and retraced every wire, all of the outlines for the icons, and all of the numbers. I started with the numbers that were easy and left the harder ones to help eliminate problems. I also referenced my now vast photo and video archive on the wiring job and that helped me see what colours were where in the car which, in turn, helped me figure out the most likely candidates for the bits of the diagram I just couldn't read at all. Eventually, I ended up with something immensely more legible than I started with. After I'd done all that I went through again with colour and made myself a colour wiring diagram showing everything at a quick glance. This copy I kept at full size and a PNG file. Suddenly a whole lot of the wiring in the car made sense. I'm not as far off track as I feared I was. Here's a JPG file which is much smaller to illustrate the point. This takes a lot of the guesswork I was having to do out. It's fundamentally the correct diagram for the car, all of the elements it should have are there. The items that are different are the passlight and the inspection lamp sockets that our car doesn't have, and the wiring for the rear lights is slightly different and looks more like you'd expect for the older style unit on the back of a Briggs car. However, because of the snap connectors marked for the rear lights, the wiring that differs there is only different from that point back and that's already wired up since I had original wiring to compare to there. Hopefully this will get me past the current stumbling block since now I stand a far better chance of getting everything connected again. Looking through the videos and photos it at least seems like I have all the colours accounted for now.
  5. Quite a long update this one, just to warn you in advance. Lots of images to illustrate what was being done. Hopefully this will help if you're working on a LD10 or anything of similar vintage since this car is apparently fairly conventionally wired for its age and construction type. Pat and I had spent some time figuring out what wires went were. Some of it was more obvious than others and, had we been working with a car that was a clean slate, I imagine this whole process would have gone much smoother. Easiest item was the wiper motor wires. The grommet disintegrated which is why it's not there at the moment. Much of working out the dashboard portion of the loom was a case of laying it down and seeing where the wires lined up with things. Because almost nothing on our car was original in this area and we had no references to work from to tell us what went where, it was a case of applying the logic of wiring colours and lengths. Once we had the wiper motor figured out, the oil pressure sender made most sense next. Normally it looks like this runs through the P clip next to the fuel filter. The filter is a later addition and not original and to slacken off the P clip to feed the wire through you need to remove the filter since that's the only way to get to the bolt for the clip. Removing the filter is a two person job, or a one person job if you've got longer arms than I do. I haven't connected anything yet because this was the first dry run of putting the wires through. I wanted to know routing was correct before committing to fixing things in place. Next up was the coil wires and this one is a little confusing. There's a yellow and a white, which seems correct for coil, and the length is good too. However, on our car it had one wire to the loom from the coil, and another from the coil to the distributor. The new loom you can't do that unless you're supposed to split the white wire so that it can run loom-coil-distributor. I didn't know (and still don't yet), so I just left the wires loose for now. I then got some fresh grommets (these weren't provided with the new wiring) to put in the bulkhead where the new wires were going through. Then it was time to try and figure out how the wiring in the engine bay linked up to the wiring in the car. There's no split at the bulkhead, so all of the wires in this section of the harness has to be fed through the relevant holes in the correct way. I didn't know what that was. I'd looked at as many photographs as I could find of other LD10s and that wasn't many. I trawled YouTube to try and find any videos showing this part of the engine bay and again, barely any information at all. So I was flying a bit blind on this one. I already knew the new loom was likely to be difficult to thread through the original holes purely because of the extra bulk it would have, but I didn't know how it physically routed. I guessed that because the bulk of the wiring junctions was on the inside of the car it probably made most sense to thread the harness through from inside the car into the engine bay. That way, in theory, I'd have the lowest chance of damaging the new harness. This would prove to be incorrect. I began my journey by threading some of the harness through the top left hole in the bulkhead, and some through the hole that the temperature sender capillary tube and the speedo cable went through, facilitating the removal of the temperature sender (this still hasn't been refitted due to fragility, it's stored safe in the house out of harm's way). This was because I thought some of the wiring made sense to go through there because of how the new harness lined up with the bulkhead holes. This was incorrect. I also learned that the provided grommets were very difficult to thread onto the harness, however you went about it. The more items I then tried to line up, the less this seemed to be the correct route so I had another go, putting the bulkier junction through the top left hole this time. This was also incorrect, but only partially. There was a lot of head scratching and then, finally, I found a reference image from an Australian auction. It was a tiny blurry little thumbnail but it showed a car with original wiring intact and routed as per factory. This meant I could see that pretty much all the wiring went through only the top left hole of the bulkhead. What took me a while after that to figure out is that you have to feed the whole harness from the engine side, through the top left hole, and into the car. This is the only way to get all of the wiring where it belongs. It's still not that easy since it's a cumbersome thing that wants to snag on everything, but had I known that from the start it would have saved me a lot of time. The reason you thread the wiring through that way is so that the junction to the next section sits about in line with the top of the steering column. There are two runs of wiring that go along the steering column, one that goes through the inside of it for the indicator switch and horn, and another that is held to the outside of the column that goes from the bulkhead down to the chassis. The big mass of wires with no connectors go to the voltage regulator (it's going to be fun working out exactly which of those goes where, I'm sure), and when you're inside the car, the wiring should sit up near the top of the bulkhead held in place with P clips. As long term viewers will remember, the wiring the car came to us with was loosely draped over the heater. The wiring that runs down the steering column exits the car through a hole in the inner wing at the steering box. A pair of yellow wires spur off up to the horns, and the rest of the wiring is for the lights. This wiring then runs under the front of the car before just the spur for the horns comes back in through a hole in the passenger inner wing. On the other side of the passenger wing (wheel side, rather than engine side), the wiring goes through a box section to keep it secure. One branch goes up through the top of the box section along the wing support rail. There's a P clip in the top of the brace the holds down the wiring. One wire goes to the sidelight, the other two go to the headlight. When we got the car, the mix of original and modified wiring was cable tied to the underside of the radiator support. I suspect there's supposed to be three P clips where those bolts and big washers are to hold it in place instead. With all that routed, I could take a step back and a bit of a think about where I was at with it. This area was looking more like it should, and even though things aren't connected yet, it looked a lot tidier than when it arrived. I felt like I stood a chance to work through this logically now at least. For the lights at the front, the single red wire goes to the sidelights, pushes up through the centre of the bolt that holds it to the wing and out into the light unit. We've got to get the new dual function LEDs for in here, and figure out what we're doing about how we earth them properly since reinstated the old repair of a thick twisted copper wire isn't really that reliable. For the headlights, it's a yellow and a green wire. Going from the box section on the inner wing on the driver's side, you can follow the wiring back from the lights, through the inner wing, and into the engine bay. It then branches up to the steering column to join the dashboard section of harness. There's a spur off for the dynamo and starter motor, and then there's a branch that goes down into a closed box section of the chassis. You can see a random blue-ish wire here from a previous re-wire. I now had as much of the front as I could figure out the next thing to do was to head to the back of the car again. The only thing in the middle of the car was the brake switch wiring but to get to that I'd have to remove the wiring that runs along the drivers side chassis rail. I couldn't do that until I'd disconnected the fuel tank and figured out how the wiring joined up to that and the wiring for the lights in the boot. With the rear wheel off and the car on an axle stand it's pretty easy to see everything you need to get to. To the left in this shot is the fuel tank, I pointing at the chassis crosstube the wiring goes around (more on this in a moment, to the right of my hand is what I believe is the rear brake rod actuator, and ahead of that is off course the differential and rear axle. Where I'm pointing now is the fuel tank sender, which works so we shan't be disturbing it, and that needs to be disconnected. Happily, there's an access hatch in the boot for this very purpose. It does seem a little odd that the sender is on the opposite side of the tank to the main wiring, but perhaps there's a sensible reason for it being nearer the filler neck? I wanted to know how the wiring actually ran to the bullet connecters that were tucked into the corner of the boot, pulled out under the car here since everything was being unthreaded. This part of the wiring is original, so this is what Lanchester installed back in 1951. It's very brittle and stiff for the most part. I'd had some confusion with the new harness in that there was a very long run of wiring that contained three wires with bullet connectors on the ends. From the colours, it looked related to the lighting. However, to my knowledge up until this point, I thought there was only one run of wiring down the chassis and I already had that accounted for. Now I was at the point I was dismantling things, I could see what that wiring was for. The old wiring runs inside the chassis rail, and then loops over the crossmember that runs between the fuel tank and the axle. It has a plastic-y sheath over it where it sits outside the chassis, so it's not immediately apparent that it's wiring. What I didn't know is there's a second run of wiring that loops underneath the same crossmember, also with a plastic-y sheath covering it. This does a good job of keeping the bulkiness to a minimum and makes for a very tidy routing given the design of the chassis. The other thing I hadn't realised when trying to find the wiring previously is that because I'd been looking in the wrong place, I hadn't seen the two runs of wiring that are clamped to the inside of the chassis rail. There are a few braces along the length of the chassis that have sort of leaf shaped holes in them that guide the wiring, and clamps at intervals that keep it in place. It's all very dark under there. That figured out, I could remove the fuel sender wire. There's an access hatch for this in the boot covered by a pair of pressed steel plates with a rubber gasket that go around the filler neck. If the intermediate wooden floor is still installed, there's a hatch cut in that too that you can remove. The wire has an eyelet on the end and is simply slid over a threaded shaft and secured with a nut. Once it's removed, I tied some string on to it so I could unthread it. I found that the wire is held to the rear cross tube with two large metal band clips and the centre rear bracket for the fuel tank. Then it's a case of finding any tools that fit the Imperial fixings to undo them. I only had two spanners the correct size, and fortunately the right shape too. I was quite surprised at how easily the nut and bolt came undone, I fully expected them to be rusted solid. With the wire unthreaded and the string taking its place I could then figure out what was going on with the rest of the wiring at the end of the chassis. I also learned at this point that the fuel tank had to come out because otherwise you can't actually move any of the wiring. It's not that the fuel tank is pressing on the wiring, just that there simply isn't enough space to get in with your hands to move the wiring out of the chassis. That meant disconnecting the rotten filler neck connecting hose, something that will be easy and sensible to replace. That also gives us access to the worst of the rust on the back end which is just this simple bit of fabrication needed to the inner arch. Duct tape over the filler neck to prevent dirt going in the tank since I can't put the cap on with that being attached to the other part of the filler neck. The tank is held into the car with one bolt in the middle at the back through the rear chassis crossmember, and two going through the chassis crossmember the wiring loops around. Again, the other bolts came undone surprisingly easily and the tank was then ready to remove. Or so I thought. I found out very quickly that the exhaust needs to be disconnected to allow the tank to drop out. I was time conscious when I did this job, not least because it kept suddenly raining very heavily without warning, so I just moved the tank aside and later I'll drop the exhaust so the tank can be removed and repainted properly. At least I could get to the wiring and start figuring out how that came out. There was a nut and bolt going through the end of the chassis which I'm still not entirely sure of the purpose for. There appeared to be a wire going to it, and there's a stub of what might be an auxilliary light under the car in this sort of area, but no switch or wiring for it anywhere in the car. There was a lot of fiddly and dirty work attaching strings and persuading decades old wiring and dirt to let go and come free. I wore eye protection throughout this job because I like my eyes and don't have a spare set. I should have also put something over my ears to stop rust and dirt going in them, it was one of those jobs. Eventually I had the wiring out and I had to remove the brittle old plastic-y sheathing that kept bunching up and jamming the wiring as I was trying to remove it from the chassis. It's not very easy to unthread the wiring from the back of the chassis because all you have for access are these little holes. Even with the wiring clips unbolted in the open section of the chassis, it was still slow going. Because I also had to pull the string through, I had to be careful not to snag things, and because I was dodging the sudden downpours and trying to keep the camera safe, it was a bit of a chore to do. The wiring is held to the chassis with B clips (that's what shape they are, like a P but two bumps) located under each of the bodymount/outriggers. It's a nut and bolt rather than a captive nut, so they are a bit fiddly to remove. Once you've removed the clips, you then have to make sure as you pull the wire out it doesn't get jammed in the narrow part of the vertical guide holes (not the same as those circular holes in a previous photo) in the chassis, and even more careful of the string which is hard to keep out of the narrowest pinch point. Eventually, I'd freed the wiring as far as the B pillar, I had strings run to preserve the wiring route, and was ready to work my way forward for the last bit of the old wiring removal. That will have to wait for a future update, this one is quite long enough.
  6. One could also argue that he started it so...
  7. Remember the Hydrasag series? The Comité Champagne put an IP claim in against one of them and Redbubble upheld it so you can no longer get it in beige. Fuxake. As far as I was aware until today, using the word 'champagne' to describe a colour, when the original colour is 'champagne beige' was allowed. But apparently not. And people wonder why I don't bother with the car stuff so much. Anyway, get hold of new Citroen stuff before, I dunno, Birds Eye Potato Waffles puts in a claim against them for some reason. An example of XMs: https://www.redbubble.com/shop/ap/99151331 An medley of 2CVs: https://www.redbubble.com/shop/ap/97915722 The main shop: https://www.redbubble.com/people/angylroper
  8. Other things got in the way. It'll happen, but it means buying another set of tyres and ideally refurbishing the alloys. It's all money I don't have right now.
  9. Who knows? Barry from Croydon will probably tell everyone it's shit like and I've ruined a classic while Amanda over in Tunbridge Wells probably thinks I should scrap it. Meanwhile, Wilfrid Horsemanure is probably still prattling on about The Strikes And All That and gradually working himself up to a red faced political frothfest about how his rights are being impugned because he has to wear a mask in Aldi. You know, the usual Facebook bollocks. Anyway. Today there was petrol on the floor behind the Princess. It does this in the summer sometimes when the back of the car gets hot and its got a full tank of fuel. While it does have a full tank of fuel, it's hardly summer. Normally, unscrew the cap to release the excess pressure and then it's fine once you've burned a few liquid dinosaurs. This time, I unscrewed the cap and was greeted with about half a litre of unleaded flooding out of the filler neck, narrowly missing my shoes, and spilling down the side of the car. Then I made the mistake of wiping it off and took the freshest paint clean off to bare metal where I'd done some repairs a year or two ago. Not sure what that's about to be honest, it's almost like the tank has over pressurised due to a blocked vent tube or similar and it's not something it's ever done in winter before. It's also become reluctant to start on the first attempt of the day, usually taking three attempts to actually catch and idle so there's something amiss. Once it's actually started its fine and behaves all day long so again, no idea what that's about. It probably hates me. I painted the bare metal with blue enamel paint because it's all I had to hand and I didn't have time to drag the Lanchester out of the garage to get to the proper colour and since I'm doing the paint later this year I couldn't give any less fucks than I currently do about the state of the paintwork.
  10. Hopefully not too late. Did an order and a pay. It was super easy so cheers for that!
  11. @fordperv tipped me off too. Also, got tipped off on a limousine that I was previously unaware of. Haven't been able to figure out the registration on this one and have sent the seller a nice message just in case they'd be willing to share, totally understand if not of course. Had I got more room and cash, I'd be on this like a tramp on chips to be quite honest. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393861793180 https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jKQAAOSwwbVh3F3A/s-l1600.jpg https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UzIAAOSwJy1h3F3I/s-l1600.jpg https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/5REAAOSwAmJh3F3S/s-l1600.jpg
  12. I'm looking forward to when I get spotted with the paint more finished than it is right now so there's some better looking shots of it in the internet wilderness.
  13. I wonder if that was the person taking ages to park up and waiting for me to go into the shop.
  14. Generally speaking, L is no vinyl, HL is C pillars only, HLS is full roof. Except when it's not. Engine sizes also are generally 1.7 for the L, 1.7 and 2.0 for the HL, and 2.2 for the HLS. Except when it's not. Twin sealed beam headlights for L and HL, trapezoid halogens for HLS. Except when its not. Flat colours for L and HL, metallics for HL and HLS. Except when it's not. You get the idea. BL seemed to be operating on the principle that the customer gets what the customer wants. Except when they don't because BL cocked up the order somewhere along the line and the wrong trim or even colour was delivered. Just remember, it's always a Princess. Except when it's not. Then it's an 18-22. I also figured out what that blue Japanese car is; Datsun Bluebird (610) of about 1975 vintage.
  15. £1.63 per litre for E5. Would not be surprised if £1.50 of that is tax.
  16. Top find, it's not on the list. I spy a bonus Sandglow wedge in the background too. I wonder what the blue car is to the right of the image, given the unusual wing mirrors I'm going to assume something akin to a Cedric. EDIT: and I just realised the white wedge is a very rare L model. Vinyl interior, no vinyl on the roof, bodycolour door frames. Very odd windscreen wiper blades too. I suspect L trim Princesses are now extinct, I've only seen 1 modern day example, and maybe 3 or 4 period photos and that's it.
  17. A while ago I had a puncture on the sidewall of the brand new tyres I had fitted to the Princess. Bit annoying, especially since it can't be repaired. Stopped by the local backstreet car-wash-and-garage place who are always friendly and they had some lightly used, if rather old, Continentals in stock that were the right size. £50 including fitting and balancing sold me on them and when I've more cash spare I'll get another pair of Uniroyals on the back. At least now my spare tyre is a good new Uniroyal and I'm not sporting mismatched tyres on the back axle, one of which was an old Enduro Runway. At least now the rear end doesn't feel so twitchy in the wet.
  18. Without a doubt, the Citroen BX estate I had. It was far from the best example but answered every need I had. Massive carrying capacity, comfortable, easy to park, great visibility, frugal to run. Even the styling was appealing. If only the rot hadn't been so extensive.
  19. Wow, I'd totally missed the epic work that's gone on in here somehow. The new colour is fantastic, really suits the car, and that @GingerNuttz fellah certainly knows how to undo the rust.
  20. Those rear lights are familiar but I can't figure out what they're off. Something 70s I think. From that angle at least, I like them.
  21. For the whole story, check out the video above. For those that prefer, here's some words and pictures. We pick up where we left off with the engine almost fully back together. First stop, check in the book to see where the timing needs to be and where the distributor should go back in. I don't remember if this shot of the crank pulley is for setting the timing for taking the head on and off, or setting it for the distributor, but do what the book says either way. That figured out, we do that. With the vacuum UFO and rotor arm in the relevant position, you push the distributor home and the rotor arm will spin around to the new relevant position. Don't push the distributor all the way home because the studs will then be too close to the body of the unit for you to get the nuts on. You can't really shorten the studs either because then there's not enough thread for the nuts to go on. Another great bit of design work that makes these jobs a bit more irritating. Usually you have to replace the O-ring on the distributor shaft but since the one fitted was done very recently it was good to go again. Eventually the O-ring will leak a bit of oil out onto plug 2 which is when you know you need to replace it. Good luck finding the actual size you need when you do. Then work out where the plugs should go to. Make sure you don't do as I do and get it wrong by thinking the pulley end is 4, because the pulley end is actually 1. You count the cylinders right to left, 1-4, on the Princess because the O-Series was originally a RWD application, then mounted transversely in the Princess. I assume they didn't put it in the car with the pulleys on the left because then the spark plugs and ignition stuff would be round the back of the engine and a right war to get to for servicing. Do your final checks to make sure you've not missed anything, double check you've got the timing as right as you can, and attempt to start. Find out it won't, but it will misfire occasionally. Still don't realise you've got the plugs in the wrong order and, in the process of trying to figure it out, end up with a 1-2-3-4 firing order which very definitely doesn't work and get very frustrated with a job you hated before you even began it. This plug lead mistake may have ended up being a blessing in disguise. Because the engine wouldn't fire properly, it meant I was double-checking everything repeatedly and I noticed the timing marks were drifting. This wasn't just that it was on the wrong rotation, it was that every full set of four combustion cycles, the location of the timing marks on the pulleys was drifting further apart. This being an interference engine means that's a bad thing. So I took the new belt on and off a few times to find it was still the same result. Something was amiss and the only thing it seemed it really could be was the belt itself. Even though it's a brand new belt from a usually good supplier, I ordered another new belt to try and see if that would resolve the issue. Once I had the new-new belt in hand it became apparent that the old-new belt was definitely wonky somehow. Difficult to convey on camera, but the old-new belt felt slightly spongey and the tooth profile in places wasn't deep enough, it was also a lot more 'wibbly' than the new-new belt. Fitted the new-new belt and the timing stayed put like it should. Finally figured out what I'd done with the plug leads, in part due to posts here on the forum (thanking you), and the car fired up as normal. A bit grumpy about it because it was cold and running on 4-5 month old unleaded but it was running again. Initial signs were promising, but I still wasn't any more enamoured of engine work than when I began. Two options for testing are to either sit at high idle for five minutes, or take it for a five mile drive. I took it out for about 8 miles and found that it was mostly behaving itself. I suspected the old fuel was causing some issues, and proved it later when I put fresh fuel in and everything improved quite a bit. All levels were sitting where they should and aside from a noisy valve due to needing the shims doing again, I was cautiously optimistic. Then I found that the hazard warning light switch didn't operate the indicators any more, it operated the interior light and that made me make this face. I did figure out what was causing the issue with the switch, more on that in a future Princess video. For now, I can tell you we've now completed just over 100 miles with absolutely no engine issues. Whatever had caused the head gasket to fail remains a mystery, I'm just happy that it is now apparently resolved and for minimal expense. Hopefully it'll be a good long while before I have to do it again.
  22. A smidge over 100 miles completed in the Princess since head gasket replacement and no issues have presented themselves. That probably means I've fixed it, right?
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