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vulgalour

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Everything posted by vulgalour

  1. That looks like a guide for an HS4 or HS6, more commonly found on Triumphs. Princess uses an HIF44 which is a different layout and a more compact unit.
  2. I recorded this footage a year ago. That pothole is still there, though larger now. It's been there untouched since at least January 2020, as has the flooding and other potholes along this stretch of busy main road. It's almost as if Maidstone borough council were on the brink of bankruptcy or something.
  3. It's not far off on the exhaust, it's just a whiff rich but the fuel economy is about where it needs to be so in the end I just left it where it was. I don't think this carb has the lift pin, I don't recall it from the last dealings with it, it's a pretty basic thing. I've had a right job getting shims for this engine, they're a specific size, the last ones I ordered came via a friend in the US because I couldn't find anyone in the UK doing the diameter and thickness I needed. Can't remember what thickness it was now, but I think they're 32mm diameter? I'd have to check.
  4. First thing to do was get a new battery since the one on the car wasn't reliably holding charge. Alternator was doing its job just fine and putting the zaps out, but the battery wasn't always holding on to them. Headed out to try and find one in a shop, mixing it with the moderns. Make way for the ambulance. Then completely failed to find a battery in a shop anywhere. Lots of shortages at the time, so it was probably that. Amusingly, I found exactly the same kind of battery as I removed brand new online, so ordered that and plonked it in instead. The other issue I'd been having was that the hazards weren't working properly. Time to inspect the fuses, namely the one for non-ignition accessories. The fuse I took out looked perfectly fine, if a little less shiny than would be ideal, but I put a fresh one in the socket anyway. Experience has taught me that sometimes these ceramic style fuses just seem to go bad for some reason. The problem was mainly that it had got itself stuck with corrosion. That meant that when you turned the hazards on the interior light flashed and the indicators didn't, a very odd electrical issue that was a proper head scratcher. Replaced the fuse and the hazards and interior light went back to working properly. That's not really one I can show in static images so well, so if you really want to see that, go watch the video. While looking for potential earth problems, I found the secondary main earth had gone rusty again which definitely wouldn't have helped. Gave it a good scrub and got it back to as not-rusty as I could. Used a bit of ACF-50 on it too which seems pretty good at keeping moisture, and by extension corrosion, at bay. With that all sorted, it was time to see how much happier the car would be about starting. Traditional choke pegs, check it's in neutral, and see if it fires up... which it did basically instantly. This was a huge improvement on how it had been so I was pretty happy about that. With the wipers, headlights, heater fan, and brake lights all on the alternator was keeping up with charge properly and while the wipers did slow a little, it was definitely in the realm of normal rather than struggling. An 8 mile test run later, decided to check the head gasket seam for any issues because previously this had been a short enough run to highlight that. I was pleased to see the areas of concern previously were no longer areas of concern. Also no bubbles in the expansion bottle so it looks like when I last re-torqued the head bolts down that's all that was required. I did notice that the heaters had become very effective and the coolant had gone quite brown so I assume there was a blockage somewhere in the system that had cleared through. The mileage I'd done in this video was about the same as I'd done when the head gasket last went so I was both hopeful I'd fixed the problem, and concerned it might be about to happen. Finally, even though this video was recorded a year ago, I'm still on the look out for some of these Princess rubber floor mats, front and rear, since I only have the one. They do occasionally appear, though never in great shape. If you happen to have one or more of them please do drop me a line.
  5. More rewiring. I've actually learned a few things since recording this so some of the mistakes you might see could well be rectified already. First thing was to get more of the bullet connector sleeves that aren't provided with the harness, I was just waiting on a replacement bullet for the one that fell off here. Then a case of figuring out what wires do what. This purple-black with a white-red inside is for the brake switch, it turns out. That comes out under the driver's side front footwell where the brake switch lives. The other two purple-black both have a plain white inside, one of which is for the wiper and one of which is for the horn. Happily the wiring for the wiper is pretty close to the wiring I'm trying to identify so doing a continuity test to work out which is which won't be too difficult. Then I found out the battery in my multimeter had died and being an A23G it wasn't one I happened to have a spare of. Rather than let that stop me, I moved on to a different job, namely the dim-dip switch. This was one of the items where the original wiring on the back of the switch matched the colours on the wiring diagram I was using so that made life a bit easier. I did each wire individually before moving to the next one so I didn't get anything muddled, I knew the switch worked so the wiring on it should be correct. The connectors are an open spade connector so you just slacking the screw, slide the spade connecter in, and tighten the screw down. Aside from the awkward access since you're in the footwell to do this, it actually went quite smoothly. The plate bolts to a cross beam but because it's nuts and bolts that aren't captive, it's a two person job to reinstate it. I couldn't get tools to stay wedged to do it up myself and my arms simply weren't long enough to reach both sides simultaneously. I then spent some time identifying what wires went were and trying to get all of the instrument panel wired up properly. Not the easiest job to record or do as access isn't the best and removing the cluster from the dashboard didn't really give any better access due to wire lengths. One issue I did encounter was the telltales for oil and ignition had yellow wires with bullet connectors on that couldn't reach anything else on the wiring, including each other, and the two wires that were probably to feed them had ring connectors on. Initially I didn't know what the problem was with this and when I found it, I was a little bit disappointed. The new battery for the multimeter was got so I could do a continuity test and figure out which wire was for the wiper motor, and then I connected all the wiring to the voltage regulator in the way I thought was correct according to the information I had at the time. I also figured out the flasher cans (that were provided) go on the custom wiring spur for the indicators. Whether this means the semphores are going to flap in and out in time to the indicator flash or not, I don't know. Some people think they will, some think they won't, but I can't see how you'd provide power to activate them and flash the bulb without deactivating the power to them. Maybe the flash rate is such that the arms stay stuck out but the bulb flashes, I won't know until I test them. I figured out what was amiss with the telltale bulb holder wiring too. Not only did the new bulb holders not like to stay in the instrument binnacle, they didn't actually have the correct provision as standard for the wiring. There's probably some way to modify or complete the wiring provided to make them work, instead I opted to fit the old known good holders to the new harness. This did then resolve the connectivity issues. The old holders have an additional tang on the side with a screw which allows you to connect those eyelets that I couldn't connect to the new wiring, it also did away with the mystery of the bullet connectors and where they're supposed to go. It was then a case of reinstalling all of the spaghetti, including the ignition switch wiring, to get everything ready to go. Another thing to do is to connect the harness inside the car to the harness that comes in from outside the car. Again, not enough sleeve connectors provided for this so I had to acquire more for that The last thing was to see what happened when I turned the ignition switch on and, happily, the oil and ignition light came on like they should, the fuel guage jumped to full (it's not actually connected, but it's good it moved) but the panel lights didn't come on as I didn't have that fully connected yet. Progress at least.
  6. Apparently, the original fixings are plastic with a push pin that spreads the legs on the back of the fixing to hold it all in place. I didn't have anything like that so I reused the plastic squares from the old fixings, some grommet things scavenged from the inside of Princess doors, and some suitable screws. These worked pretty well. For a belt and braces approach I also used a couple of cable ties on the outer corners until I can get proper fixings to hold this in place, I didn't entirely trust the ancient plastic of the grommets I'd used and thought it sensible. You can't tell I fixed anything, so this is definitely something I could have left alone.
  7. Let's have a go at some video write ups, see how we get. Pat is now testing negative for Covid and is almost entirely well again, which is super. I've been testing negative since he contract it, but I've also spent the last few days having all the Covid symptoms on speedrun so that's been pretty appaling. Today I'm sore, my sinuses are blocked, and my temperature is very up and down. Still, gives me time to try and get caught up on this since I can take breaks as I write if I need to. The old lower front grille on the Maestro is bust and repaired and needs replacing. The fixings holding it on aren't original. The repair works, so I can't fault the creator of it on that front, I can just do better. First up is removing the four fixings that hold it in place, one at each end of the grille and two in the middle. The passenger side one proved more challenging because the head had turned to rust. The stack of improvised parts was curious too. I'm not entirely sure what the wrinkle paint coated aluminium was off originally that was used to repair the old grille, perhaps some old electrical device? They'd gone to a lot of trouble with shaping and cutting out holes for air flow, pretty commendable stuff really, just like that front wing. Just seems a bit strange this much effort was undertaken rather than just buying a replacement.
  8. We have a high level rear light solution for the Lanchester now. Royal Enfield Electra rear light unit. It will require some modification, as expected, because the factory chrome lump it all bolts to is too big and won't let things drop into the gap behind the seat. You'll have to use your imagination a little bit at this point. Inside the car you can see how much too big the chrome middle bit is. Outside demonstrates that the size of the lamps is pretty good for visibility. Tiny LEDs would have been more subtle, definitely. This should work well enough and be a good bit cheaper. I can tint the lenses to obscure them further if need be but I probably won't. What I'm planning to do is bend up a bracket to drop all the lights down to the bottom of the rear screen. The bracket will bolt to the parcel shelf directly since it's steel and the wires will then run into the boot to join the rest of the harness. Small shrouds around the lights will help prevent glare and it should make the car a bit more visible from behind without spoiling it's general look. Best of all, this is all very easy to reverse should the need arise. Here's a scruffy mock up of what' planned. The lights can probably drop down a bit further than that, they'll barely be higher than the back of the back seat.
  9. You know when a chip ends up lost at the bottom of the oven for [redacted] and turns into a little black bit of carbon? That's what the old cork gasket looked and felt like. I fitted a new one, it should tolerate a refit so I shan't replace it unless I have to.
  10. Mine's not fully stainless it turns out. Tailpipe and backbox are, the rest looks to be mild steel. Your exhaust does stick out a long way, at least in that shot, perhaps it's originally for a van? Nothing an angle grinder can't fix.
  11. Amazingly, I didn't even get any splashback on my specs. Still not sure how I managed that tbqh, I'm just thankful for small miracles. What I did manage to do is cock up the valve adjustment by reading the wrong bit of the manual because my goodness I'm so tired and I just need a holiday and can't take one... so I have to go back in and redo it all again to the correct gaps. At least it'll be a lot less grimy and stuck this time around. The new rocker cover gasket appears to have cured the miasma of burning oil that wafts into the cabin too, so that's nice.
  12. The K11 Micra has a sealed-for-life engine, which is why you shouldn't ever change the oil.
  13. Oh... Oh no... I had to pressure wash it. I've never had to pressure wash a rocker cover before. I dread to think what the inside of the sump looks like.
  14. Made sure to get into the neighbourhood spirit and put the outdoor decorations up today. Battery powered LEDs, great stuff. The little function selector box slots neatly into the coin cubby in the dash. Obviously, don't drive around with them all flashing like that.
  15. December 2022 I liked this. Oh So Retro sticker in the back window, and Jack_Mk3 for Instagram by the looks of things. Nice job, Jack, looks smart. See this Rover about quite a bit, never seem to see it stood still long enough to pap, until today! Got photobombed by a Ford Ka Climate. Think these were one of those run-out models so you got special alloys, bodycoloured trim, and a zetec engine as standard, something like that at any rate. Fordists, let me know. Yes, the Maestro is be-tinselled now. It's also got fairy lights inside you just can't see them in that photo.
  16. It'll be fine. Princess is blocked in and a real arse to get out from where it is anyway, and Maestro is checked daily since I'm using it all the time. Garage is blocked too. Funnily enough, a doorbell camera wouldn't actually help that much because of how the plot is laid out, it wouldn't really see anything. Might pick up the odd fox or local cat but that'd probably be it.
  17. Locally, prices of used cars and classic cars have gone a bit silly and where we live is old people central. To be fair as well, the Princess was the first one he asked about and that hasn't moved in quite a while due to my inability to find the time to finish the rear brakes. Normally I make sure the Princess and Maestro are turned around and parked differently as much as I can so they're more obviously being used. I reckon he was looking for a potential quick-flip, buy it cheap off some old dear and flog it on at inflated price on Facebook due to rarity value.
  18. Covid finally got us. We've been super careful with masking up and avoiding social events, especially since I'm higher risk due to respiratory illness history. We're both vaccinated so at least we shouldn't suffer too badly. I've tested negative and feel perfectly fine, which has surprised both of us since any sort of cold or flu or whatever normally homes straight in on me and knocks me flat. Shall just have to continue being careful and doing a bit of isolation in the short term. What a rotten thing this virus has been, and continues to be. Also had someone knock on the door asking if the 'old cars' were for sale so that's made me a bit nervous. They were perfectly affable, but I've moved anything metal that isn't bolted down out of sight, just in case. There's not really any more security I can throw on things than I already have realistically so just have to hope it was a benign interaction. If someone wants to take stuff badly enough, they will, so there's no point worrying about it happening.
  19. The Rover 200/400 series in R8 form is peak car. Just enough toys to make them nice to live with, just simple enough to be repairable, pretty rust resistant and surprisingly tolerant of neglect. There's a body shape and engine/gearbox combo to suit practically every need too. Only problem is they're so good at being peak car, they're kind of boring.
  20. I'd totally forgotten about these stickers until seeing this. Hopefully someone out there is doing replicas so I can get one for the Maestro, it would be a fine addition to the tat collection.
  21. Wasn't sure where to put this one so I'm putting it in here. Hardtop for a 2CV, a thing I never knew existed until seeing this listing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175428067712
  22. The Lanchester now has a springy beeper instead of a rattly button. A slightly cut down Land Rover horn push spring did the job. Trying to get through a few jobs on the Lanchester to make it more like a car and less like an ornament. I'm pretty close to having everything buttoned up and moving on to welding work, it's just been tough to find the time to do anything.
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