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Everything posted by Stanky

  1. hahaha, I could spend that much on paint, but it'd only fix about 20% of what needs doing! I'll see how I get on, its reassuring that Merc can get hold of the part if this one falls to bits but will try and save up my pocket money for a month or two before buying a new one if it comes to that. I've got the Skoda in for an MOT on thursday so we'll have to see how that gets on before I spend any more money!
  2. Back in the game! Exhaust welding passed muster, droplink was fine and I've got ticket to ride for another year. Advisories aren't major concerns yet. I phoned up Mercedes re the exhaust and they can get the part from Germany for £470 which is less than I expected. I'll have a think because having browsed Autotrader, Gumtree and FB Marketplace for cars <£5k within 50 miles there it literally fuck all thats worth having or is materially better than what I currently have. So While £500 for a new OEM exhaust isn't ideal, by the time I've bought someone else's 15 year old car, fitted 4 half decent tyres, serviced it and fixed the niggles I'll have spent £6k. so shelling out 10% of that to fix the only bits I know need doing on my car seems almost rational doesn't it?
  3. Mixed fortunes this weekend, but lots of work undertaken. My brother came down to see me and brought his welder, we fabricated* a new hanger for the exhaust and he welded it on, then welded up the cracked pipe so its now gastight. I'll take it back for a retest on Monday and hopefully it'll get through ok. The droplink was done and dusted in 10 minutes. I also replaced the occasionally iffy thermostat on the merc for a brand new Mercedes one We then changed the oil and filters in his passat, and attempted to change the engine mounts which ended up having to be aborted as we couldn't lift the engine clear of the mounts. Its a crazy arrangement with awful access, despite the assurances of various VW Forum members that 'its easy if you do XYZ' it really wasn't. We did manage to replace the oil level sensor though so not all bad. We also had a go at swapping the driveshaft on the daihatsu in an effort to cure the 70mph wheel wobble, which we accomplished, but only because the vibration was so bad with the replacement driveshaft we couldn't go above 30mph for fear of the wheel falling off. So we swapped back to the original one which at least works. I was quite pleased that swapping the driveshaft back to the original took us all of 15 minutes the second time. I do need to top up the gearbox oil a bit, but the oil I have is virtually solid in the current temps so I'll need to bring it inside for a while so it flows better before tipping it in. Bit of a mixed bag, hopefully the mercedes will be back in action tomorrow and the pressure will be off until Thursday when the Skoda is in for its MOT test. Assuming the mercedes gets a fresh ticket it may well be up for sale soon, I fancy a change. Anyone who wants a cosmetically challenged but pretty solid manual 2001 C-Class estate, please make yourselves known!
  4. Do you have the 'old' one to hand? Could you go to a fixings & fasteners place and say 'I want another one of these please'?
  5. Ah, sorry! I'm used to dealing with my local Mercedes and Toyota dealerships who have been incredibly helpful, even for tiny components with almost no profit margin in them!
  6. Phone the local Hyundai dealer, press Y for parts, quote the part number at them? Doubt it'll be expensive, and will be right, first time. Its what i do with a lot of daihatsu parts, call my local toyota dealer and ask for part number ABC123, they usually have it ready for me the next day.
  7. The Mercedes MOT didn't go entirely to plan, with a FAIL awarded on two items. The first was the other front droplink. Last year the nearside one was an advisory and got changed, this year the offside one was a fail because the boot was ripped. These are pretty cheap, and pretty easy to do so no major concern there. I picked up an 'Optimal' [sic] brand droplink from ECP today which took longer to collect than to fit. the old droplink came off with minimal struggle and the new one fitted perfectly which is handy. What was less ideal was: Rear Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (6.1.2 (a)) Hmmm, whats this then? Having had a chat with the MOT guy he said that what had happened was that one of the hangers has broken off, meaning the exhaust is only attached at the front and the rear, the centre section is a bit freer than it ought to be. Because the roads of Hampshire are so velvety* smooth* the vibration over potholes and things has caused the pipe to stress crack. Did I want them to sort the bits out or would I do it? I said I'd have a look at it, and could they see if they can get hold of the rear exhaust too? I called up all the exhaust suppliers I knew of locally and was disappointed. Because my car is an early s203 with the old engine, it needs a specific exhaust rear section, which is out of stock. everywhere. balls. I called the garage today and asked if they'd had any luck getting one, to which they said the same - yeah we know what we need, but no, we can't get one. Here is what we're working with you can just about see the weld remains where the hanger used to be, the rubber is intact but its unsupported. there is a crack running around 2/3rds of the pipe where its stressed. The exhaust is OEM and likely original, its MB stamped at least. I'm going to see if brother_stanky can weld it to get it gastight again. I think if we can get a bit of rebar welded on and hung on the rubber it can take the stress off the pipe, and actually close up the crack almost entirely, then run a bead of weld around it, possibly with some strips of steel plate to act like splints. the exhaust metal is surprisingly thick even after 20 years so fingers crossed. Options B is a nasty exhaust bandage thing, its a bit tricky because its immediately before an elbow so will be hard to seat bandage, and almost impossible to sleeve. updates to follow.
  8. Very curious. I had a good nose around in daylight and everything seemed ok. Cambelt is tensioned correctly, no fault codes, engine mounts nice and tight so I started it up to see what was going on. Started fine and settled into a slightly rough idle, but not concerningly so. I revved it up a bit in neutral and it seemed OK, revving normally so I took it for a short drive between work meetings. Seems to drive fine and idles fine once its warmed up a bit. It revved through to 4500rpm in second gear fine. I'm putting it down to doing mostly short trips and it being cold and damp here. It certainly not burned an exhaust valve or majorly shed the cambelt so thats a good thing. Its in for an MOT next thursday so its stay of execution may be short lived!
  9. Credit to my brother, but someone appears to be trying to sell a transit thats been used to ramraid a Radio Rentals store. Except its being sold in Silent Hill? If you go to view this you will never be seen again. https://www.gumtree.com/p/ford/ford-transit-/1449742040
  10. Phone call from wife_Stanky earlier "The car is shuddering really badly, I can't drive it and daughter_Stanky needs to be at school" "can you take the Daihatsu? its a bit loud, but keep the revs down and its OK" 7 minutes later "yeah, I'm not driving that, the police will pull me over" And of course, the mercedes is in for an MOT tomorrow, so I currently have 0/3 cars which my wife is able to use. I suggested we buy another car. She wasn't impressed. I think I might have finally reached the point in my life where I'm going to pull the trigger on something new/almost new, with an actual warranty. Life is fucking difficult enough without having to roll around in the dark and rain on a january evening fixing another ungrateful twat car. I'll have a look at it tomorrow in the daylight, might just be a duff spark plug, but I bet it'll have dropped a valve or the almost new cambelt will have skipped a tooth or something. I just despair sometimes.
  11. Weekday visit is fine, will PM
  12. Let me know if you want to pop over and hook it up to my Delphi scanner?
  13. brother_Stanky has one of the corded ones and rate it highly. Slightly lower rated than my Clarke CEW1000, but about £30 cheaper. Well worth getting IMHO. I saw the cordless one was £70 in my local Lidl yesterday. TBH they're bulky things anyway, I'd opt for the corded one unless you're likely to need to use it a long way away from mains power on a regular basis. You can use the money saved to buy a decent set of impact sockets and a 30m extension lead.
  14. There is only one known issue with them, which manifests as restricted power in certain conditions. Luckily, an inventive aftermarket supplier has found a simple solution to the issue https://www.tegiwaeuro.com/tts-performance-rotrex-supercharger-kit-citroen-c1.html
  15. A video is worth a thousand pictures or something? Anyway, here for your audio delight is a short video of what a straight-through exhaust sounds like on a K3-VE2 Daihatsu Sirion The smoke is from the assembly paste and some muck burning off, its only been driven about 5 miles so far. Its going back soon for a resonator to be fitted but I wanted to document the noise for future generations.
  16. Ah, interesting, its the 'good' side of the metal inner door plate thing? So just door card off (snapping all the clips) then the motor is able to be removed, correct?
  17. Just collected the Daihatsu from having its exhaust fitted, and its a bit loud. Got underneath when I got home and somewhere along the line my request for a resonator in the system got missed, and so its now a 2" straight-through system which isn't quite when I wanted. Fair play to them, they've apologised and are getting a resonator in and will fit it ASAP.
  18. Minor updates - the carrier is only available with the caliper itself from Toyota, costing a whopping £470 + VAT so thats a 'thanks, but no' - I might have a lead on a breaker which could yield a not-warped carrier though so fingers crossed on that. The Daihatsu is currently having a cat-back stainless exhaust fabricated, the existing exhaust is largely comprised of holes and things-which-will-very-soon-be-holes, and the only off the shelf replacement parts were Klarius which are a load of shite. Its also tricky because with the rear ARB fitted, the stock rear section doesn't fit and needs to be modified anyway, so it seemed prudent to spend the extra £200 or so on a custom stainless one that I don't need to fiddle around with myself, and has a lifetime warranty. I also upgraded from 1.75" to 2" pipe to help it breathe a bit better. Got to go and collect it later (and pay for it, gulp) but I'm looking forward to seeing how it sounds in the top third of the rev range! The Mercedes has been behaving fine, though the fuel economy has been a bit poor of late. I get about 30mpg in mixed driving and 36mpg on a run which I put down to heavy car, little engine and it being winter, but driving home yesterday I clicked through the display to see how cold it was outside and noticed that the coolant was only getting to about 55c, coupled with not a lot of warmth from the heaters suggests the thermostat is broken. This was after a decent run on the motorway and driving about smaller roads for a good 30 minutes so had plenty of time to have warmed up by then. aftermarket thermostats for the M111 seems to vary in price between £8 for a starline one to £110 for a Gates jobbie. I called up Mercedes who would do me an OEM one with gasket for £39 so pulled the trigger on that. It should be available for collection by thursday and I'll collect it at the weekend. Hopefully it'll pay for itself in improved MPG in short order! Lastly the Skoda, its motoring on with the only known issue currently being the front electric window don't wind up or down. It was intermittent but is now fully non-operational so I need to get the door motor out and sent off for refurb. They fail and act as the master so the passenger one won't work if the driver side one doesn't behave. This does mean another episode with drilling out the rivets in the inner door panel so I will also bite the bullet and order a rivnut gun too so I can replace the 6.4mm rivets with rivnuts and m6 bolts.
  19. Soldering. Specifically trying to solder tiny microswitches to tiny circuitboards, because the tiny microswitches came detatched. Because i dropped my keys. I fucking hate soldering, I rarely do it so am cack handed, and I only have a shitty fucking silverline soldering iron with a too-short cable and a conical nib and its just wretched to use on anything smaller than sections of ferry hull. I've made a total pigs ear of the job and can't face having another go. I can just about solder wires together though a combo of 97% luck and 3% having some mega old lead solder which makes up for my utter ineptitude. So I shall be unlocking the car with the key for the foreseeable future then...
  20. You can also get a 'Gino' kit to modify the front end and make it look like a Japanese take on a 60s car - I'm biased but I think they looks pretty cool actually. Think 'Toyota/Daihatsu/Perodua's answer to the Nissan Figaro' and you're not miles off.
  21. Location: Southwold. About a mile offshore from 1977 - 2021 by the looks of it?
  22. Mutha_Stanky found an old scrapbook from1993/1994 when I visited over Christmas and there were a few shite spots in there. Background shite at Needham Lake, Suffolk. Its been literal years since I last saw a motorbike and sidecar. Foreground shite in Dieppe, France. Best for last - a street scene in Budapest in I think 1993. Very shortly after the end of communism. Apologies for photos of photos but I didn't have a scanner there.
  23. Cheers, the regulator is held on with 2x bolts, I assume that with engine off, there isn't any residual pressure behind it? Or is there a procedure for depressuring the system? I'm conscious that I don't want a tattoo made of diesel...
  24. Thanks, his is the 2013 170bhp version I think? Sadly, £300 is just as out of reach as £80 for the valve is currently.
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