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fatharris

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Everything posted by fatharris

  1. Citroen really must be up there for the best wheel trim designs, eh?
  2. I'm trying to work out if these 308s were peak-malaise era of Peugeot, but I hope it does you a turn!
  3. Been an age since I've seen one of these, good on you for keeping it going! Can't imagine a '98 would have a carb though?
  4. That's properly lovely - hope you get to the bottom of the running issues! Always wanted an 80s/90s slab-sided yank, like an 80s Crown Vic.
  5. Honestly? No clue - in the three years this has been sat on the driveway, I never actually got on with checking the car over - there's at least one more repair to do, possibly two. Still got about six million mechanical jobs to look at too, which I'm sure will go without a hitch
  6. It's been a bit of a tin-bashing day this evening. Did some more seam sealing too. Think I've got the hang of making these humps in the metalwork now. Just got to trim the third one down to size tomorrow. Three patches, ready to go in. Just need to prep the metalwork.
  7. It's been fairly quiet this week, coming down with a shitey cold once again is doing wonders for my enthusiasm. Got the last repair panel welded on (the vertical section) and welded it to the new section of floorpan: Dressed back the random split in the floorpan - this was later welded up but I forgot to get photos: And then given a thick coat of etch primer - the underside got a coat of red oxide primer and has also now been seam sealed. So, whilst that dries, it's onto the other side. Spotted a lot of flaky paint along the inner sills, but no serious corrosion issues. Ran my hands around the underseal on the floorpan and heard some crispy noises under a bubble of underseal. Cut away the detached underseal and found some rather thin metal, underneath - looked absolutely fine from up top, but the screwdriver doesn't discriminate! And obviously the rear of the floorpan was due replacement (you can see the thin but under the bubble slightly forward of this): Luckily, beyond the first 40-ish mm it just appears to be surface grot so it should be fine with a wire brush and a reprotect. So, angle grinder came out, and the grotty bits chopped out: I was good to have a good look around in this area, as it highlighted that whilst I had put the R-clip back on the suspension unit rod, I had missed the rod completely, which was flopping around under the mounting point! Resecured that properly this time. Should be in the garage making the repair patches tonight, with the plan to get them welded in on Friday. We shall see.
  8. Oh yeah, forgot to do these ones: The replacement y piece for the low pressure LHM line was around £25, so £3 seemed much preferred for an air line fitting (5mm pipe diameter). Hoping this works as for some reason it doesn't appear to release the pipe once it's inserted. I also fitted the boot clip for the suspension unit - this was £13 from a specialist, or £3.70 if you did some googling and found an equivalent: With that all done, the suspension unit rod was reconnected and the sphere refitted. Hopefully getting closer to testing it!
  9. Oooft, been a while. Not many photos, so I'll be brief. Went for a bike ride and spotted this en route. Noted the location just in case, there was a Xantia too! Dan came round and gave me a hand, so we removed the centre section of the exhaust, the hydraulic linkage and eventually the fuel tank, in preparation for replacing the nylon lines. Proved to be the right call, upon disturbing the steel supply and return fuel lines that run the length of the floorpan, they crumbled and split in half. Some grot on the rear of the floorpan was observed, so the seats came out, the rear carpet was removed, and my day got ruined. The bit in the middle was the bit I was expecting to rectify - the gaping hole in the corner was a fun surprise. The pipelines seen through the floor are the high pressure hydraulic suspension supply lines. Understandably, I was reluctant to break into this system and risk inducing leaks from disturbed pipeline unions. I decided to mark their positions on the pipeline clips prior to unclipping them. With a roll of tape cable tied to the pipelines to gently weigh/pull them down, I gained enough clearance to safely cut out the affected rusty areas. There is very clear evidence to suggest that someone before us had been driving this around on the lowest setting and hit something on the underside at speed - both rear floorpans are distorted at the very rear bottom - the drivers side rear also has some grot, but nowhere near as far-reaching and brittle as this end. There's also a weird dent and slight split in the middle of the floorpan that should be easy enough to weld back together. So, time to tin-bash. Three patches needed this time. Aaaaaand once again, I caught my bastarding stomach in the tin-snips. Ouch. Once all three patches were offered up to check for fit: The welder was fired up. Only done 2 of 3 so far, I'll get back on the tools tomorrow, had a couple of days off for my lads birthday. Hoping to get the other side done and primed/painted by Saturday evening, so the tank can go back in.
  10. First coat of stone chip is on. I'll get another can today and put another one down. Did a coat of stone chip on the interior welding repairs too. With that drying and some helpful advice from @twosmoke300 and the BX FB group, I re-investigated the LHM leak. The leak was manifesting itself as a slow drip from the subframe in this area: Notice anything missing? Yep, the boot retaining clip isn't there. No idea when that left, but the rust marks show it did have one fitted. The leak itself I believe to be caused by the sphere not being fitted tightly enough - just tapping the sphere removal tool onto the sphere with the mallet was enough for it to start unscrewing freely. I'm going to clean up the seal and mating faces and re-fit. The clip is a bit more of a fiddly affair - because I can't remove the unit itself (that pipeline union is NOT budging) I have to disconnect the suspension unit rod from the suspension arm, disconnect the vent and return pipes, and slide it up and over the boot to fit. I /did/ have a clip on the donor unit which would have worked perfectly. Except, well... Arses. I've got a clip on order so hopefully it'll arrive some point next week and I can focus on rebuilding the rear end over the weekend 😁
  11. Typically, I use medium point, non-permanent OHP pens - they're relatively fast-drying, and clean off with water. If I make a mistake, I usually use a cotton bud dipped in water to prevent smudging the rest. I prefer the medium points (like a felt tip) - any finer and it struggles to lay the ink down properly, plus the thickness of the medium point line gives you a bit of leeway for the thickness of the angle grinder disc Honestly, that Tetrosyl is worth firing straight into the bin if you've not kept the receipt. Absolute garbage stuff. Got a brand new tube with the receipt here that I'll be taking back and swapping for more stone chip
  12. So, the following afternoon, I cracked on with making the fuel capsule bracket. It didn't come out too badly, and it turned out to be all for nothing. One of the tangs on the fuel capsule had snapped, and a replacement item was £24. Weighing up the options of whether I even wanted/needed to re-introduce a moisture and dirt trap against the inner arch, I elected to remove the capsule entirely and connect the line into the fuel filler neck directly. There's no one way valve fitted now, but the pros outweigh the cons in this regard. Instead, I opened the LHM depressurisation screw, jacked up the OSR arm and worked on the OSR unit replacement. Aaand immediately shitcanned it as the supply pipeline union was heavily rounded off. Without a replacement supply pipe, there is no way in hell that I'm chopping into pipework. Oddly, I'm not sure where the leak is - it's not flowing out of the boot and there's a pool of LHM at the bottom of the 'cup' the unit sits in. Could possibly be an LHM sphere seal that's gone bad. With that work on hiatus, I went with an LHM pump change - the old one was functional, but the pulley had some distortion and the wobble was hilarious. Alternator was removed for access. With no further welding repairs required at the rear end, it was time to start seam sealing. Initially, I went with Tetrosyl rubberised seam sealer in a mastic gun, then Tetrosyl brushable seam sealer. This was a total disaster as despite giving them at least 24 hours between applications, it cracked in several places when I checked on it a couple of days later. Reading a few forums etc kept pointing to using a PU adhesive as a seam sealer and recommended Pureaflex40, which was less than £8 a tube from Toolstation. Fuck it, let's find out. Buuuuut on the way out, I remembered it IS an adhesive, and one of the rubber trim bits has been flapping for many years. In for a penny. Now that's clamped and secured (it did stay out when I removed the clamp!), it was time to give the affected areas a couple of coats of red oxide primer. Stone chip hopefully going on tonight.
  13. Had a couple of hours in the garage, so I cracked on and welded in the sill end repair panel - I'll be bloody glad to get to weld somewhere else with access, that hub and swing arm proved my downfall on the tighter sections again. I've got an entire afternoon/evening in the garage tomorrow, so I made a head start with the next part - this bracket holds the fuel capsule to the inner arch. Annoyingly, the actual bracket had gone missing from the workbench which was not ideal, but luckily I had penned the outline of what remained on a scrap bit of metal when I took it off: Using that as a template, I took a fresh set of measurements off and sketched a fresh template: Which I then carefully drew back onto a clean bit of metal. That'll do for today - I'll cut it out, mark the position on the inner arch and weld it in tomorrow, and that'll bring the welding repairs to the OSR arch to a close. Still need to find the metal bung on the sill end panel, but having it open will allow me to protect the inner skin of the sill in the meantime. Cheers 😁
  14. Ahhhh, that's why you asked for the pictures Was it a local car before your dad had it?
  15. As we had a day of good weather, the cover came off the Beat, the MX5 was opened up and both cars run up to temperature and dried out. Despite a few teething problems fitting the cover initially, the Beat has stayed clean and dry which is a relief, given the torrential rain that has tormented us at times! The sill end repair panel had been expertly lipped by my friend, who had shown me the various metalwork tools used to achieve a correct result. With that done, I measured the opening, completed the vertical lip fold and started shaping and trimming the panel for fitment. The sequence of photos shows the process of fitting it in, working out the shit bits to re-bend, and what needed chopping out. The intention is for the panel to sit behind the existing panel. Whilst cleaning up the existing metalwork for welding, a cheeky glint of light caught my eye. Bugger. Using lessons learned from watching my mate work the other patch, I measured and made a panel that would replace the grotty bits within the area in one hit. Measured twice and cut once, before clamping it into place: (The grot to the front of the patch is just staining - the inside and outside of the area is fine.) The welder was then fired up and for the first time in ages, I actually had room to wave the torch AND see at the same time - pure luxury! Finally, the panel was clamped in place, just to check the final fitment. Hoping to get into the garage tomorrow and clean the surrounding metalwork and get it welded in - doing so would give me just one more bracket to make and weld in within the area, which means I could finally look to flatting all the welds down and seam seal/prime/paint/rustproof the rear end and finally move forward of the axle! In terms of the cars actually on the road - the Rover has been an excellent winter daily driver, apart from needing a throat clearing in minus temperatures, and the washer jets being awful again. Herman was called into use after a medical episode meant MrsH's Laguna is at work for a couple of days. Typically, the first time I used the washers on Herman, the pipe popped off and the bonnet gets a little river instead - another job to be sorted out dreckly! Oh, and the Rover is in desperate need of a wash. Cheers for reading!
  16. Well, there's been a lot of moving parts to the last fortnight, so I'll try and do it in order. First things first, we got invited to a neighbours house for a Twelfth Night celebration. Whilst in the stone circle for the beginning ceremony, I spotted something next to the river bed: This will get cleaned up and hung in my boy's bedroom - he's called Austin. I also got made King for the evening, which was hilarious, particularly when I didn't make MrsH Queen Anyway, fun stuff aside, the patch got welded in. Lack of access was once again proving to be a hindrance, thanks to the wheel hub receding into the wheelwell, and the rear arch 'spat' reducing access even further. However, it survived being smacked about with a hammer, and seam sealer will have it looking pretty. Feeling a bit deflated with how bloody awful the last few repairs had gone, it was time to move lower down, onto the sill end. The 50mm metal bung was split with corrosion so that will need replacement. The metalwork was then cut back to solid metal. The area was cleaned up with an air file, and I quickly remembered the old adage 'buy cheap, pay twice'. This time with the sanding belts. The 'cheap' eBay ones were quickly refunded and another set of Cubitron belts were ordered - these are excellent belts and highly recommended. In the meantime, I made a rough template of the repair patch, added 20mm around the edge for the lip and dropped it with a mate who offered to show me the correct way to bend a 90 degree lip into a curve. This process involved getting some wooden 'formers' made up, which would take a bit of time in between jobs, so it was onto the next job. Remember this bracket? Good news! It was listed very cheaply on Chevronics! Bad news - they were out of stock. Guess I'd better have a go at making my own then. Using the image from the website, the other bracket and a bit of guesswork, and I had a rough outline. With the donor structure flattened, you can see there wasn't much left to go on! Eventually, once I'd worked out the correct sequence of folds to ensure they could all be achieved, and using an impact socket as a former to give some strength to the corners, a bracket was made! With the pigeon fed extra helpings and squeezed hard enough, the bracket was eventually welded into the correct position. Part 2 to follow.
  17. I like the look of them - brings a bit of colour to a front end (Y)
  18. Volvo 340 with a fucked CVT box?
  19. Bit more work done today. Welded the smal patch panel on the inside of the inner arch. Chopped out another grotty bit of the inner arch, and re-thought the repair. Also chopped off the bent portion of the previous repair section as it was now surplus to requirements. Once on the bench, it was clearly thin in several parts, so the right call to cut the whole section out. So, onto making a new panel. Never tried before, but a bit of twatting about with hammers allowed me to match the profile of the 'hump' at the bottom. Eventually, the edges were joggled and everything looks to match up nicely. Sadly, a persistent headache curtailed any further work today, so tomorrow will hopefully be spent prepping the arch for welding it in properly.
  20. Today was kind of a slow day, mainly because MrsH was back at work and it was just me and the boy - he was keen to come into the garage and watch/hand tools to me, and who was I to say no to free labour? First things first, I removed the wheel arch stiffener bracket - this had rotted away at one end and was barely attached at the other. Chevronics sell them for £24, but typically, have been out of stock for ages. Luckily, there's a couple of pictures online to help me fully recreate this item. The boy was roped into helping gain access to the inner arch from inside the car - this annoyingly resulted in the interior c pillar trim snapping a large section, which I will have to either repair or replace. There's a spot welded bracket that fell off a while back, it mounts the fuel tank capsule. I'm chopping a sizeable section of the arch out, so drew several straight lines to allow me to 'zone in' when the new metal is in and re-weld it in roughly the right place next time. With the lad hiding the light underneath to keep an eye on things: I started making the cuts. Not many photos occurred after this one as I was winging it as usual, but here's a photo of the repair patch. The patch is partially welded in now as MrsH had come home and it was time to get the kids ready for bed, but it follows the rest of the standards of my welding this far - ugly as sin, but solid.
  21. Busy evening yesterday. Up on stands. Gathered all the necessary equipment And welded in the rail/bracket I made way back in June. Not pretty, but it's very solid. I also welded the rail in on the underside - the new rail slotted into the old one nicely. Buoyed by this surprise burst of productivity, I got back into the garage after the kids went to bed to start work on the next panel, to bring an end to the welding needed at the very rear of the car. Took a little bit of adjustment to get a good fit. Including a double depth 'joggle' to ensure a flush fit. Then it was time to measure and drill out the plug weld holes, and clamp the panel in for welding. Then a quick spray of weld through primer on the contact areas before getting ready to weld it in again. Again, not pretty, but I'm not working with the thickest or cleanest metal. Aaaaand, typically, as I brushed against a scab on the OSR inner arch: Good job I'm now moving into that part of the car - already got three jobs to do in that area so I had better crack on. The list of jobs is growing the longer it sits!
  22. Just make and model, but none of the interesting stuff
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