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4 minutes ago, lesapandre said:

I've had one of the earlier ones - they are very crude and prone to rust. The later one is really a better made vehicle and not much more complex.

I'm no expert on these but didn't the diesel engine become much more complicated and fragile on the newer ones? And the old 6.2 was mechanical?

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4 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

I'm no expert on these but didn't the diesel engine become much more complicated and fragile on the newer ones? And the old 6.2 was mechanical?

I think both generations are mechanical. I think - but the later ones have a better reputation in the US. I would not have another early one.

 

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9 minutes ago, lesapandre said:

I think both generations are mechanical. I think - but the later ones have a better reputation in the US. I would not have another early one.

 

After a quick look at wikipedia, 6.2 in the old ones is mechanical while 6.5 in the newer ones is electronic, so older ones are simpler, so with that and the fact that I like the look on the older ones much better, I would choose an older one .

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Another SMOLL update on the ORKSHUN FIND Fiesta.

First job was to sort out the buggered bonnet latch. Unhelpfully, my local scrappers has just had a mahoosive clearout of old vehicles, many of which were Fiestas. There were just two of my shape left there and one of them yielded the bonnet latch we were after.

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New one on the right. Spot the difference? The spring for the release mechanism is completely missing on the old one. That may have something to do with the issue. Parts swapped over and a bit of latch adjustment and hey presto, the bonnet opens and shuts as it should. It’s also a good job I took the bolts from the donor car as the sizes were completely different on mine.

A quick check over on the car and a blown sidelight bulb on the front passenger side was attended to and rectified.

What else? The drivers seat latch was broken which is common on these. Thankfully the bay of E came to the rescue and for just £9 I had a pair of latches in my hand. Only fitted the drivers one as the passenger one is still operational. If it ain’t broke and all that….

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And now the seat tilts and shuts like a good’un.

Lastly, my OCD was killing me and I had to do something about the lack of TRIMZ on this fine machine. Again, the bay to the rescue and I actually bought the trims that were pictured on here in the last segment of this journey. Just £10 and the last piece of the puzzle gets fitted. There’s a broken clip on the drivers front but I’ll throw a cable tie on it to stop it doing the falling offs.

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BETTER.

There is one more job before it’s MOT, to sort out the towbar wiring as someone has cut a wire in the back and is laying in the boot. Might have been from a fancy sound system but I think it’s probably the indicator buzzer or something. Who knows.
 

More next time.

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1 hour ago, lesapandre said:

"condensation" 

Yup... condensation...they described it!

I got to say TADTS at least. Renner put the oil fill hole on the end of a tube, so the oil residue around the cap never gets that warm if you only drive around town.

I’ll just wipe it down next time, like the dirty bastard driveway trader I’m suspected of being.

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9 hours ago, Rust Collector said:

I got to say TADTS at least. Renner put the oil fill hole on the end of a tube, so the oil residue around the cap never gets that warm if you only drive around town.

I’ll just wipe it down next time, like the dirty bastard driveway trader I’m suspected of being.

Same with the omega V6.  Castrol products made it worse according to some "experts". Using genine GM oil did improve it, but it only really went away if you did long journeys. 

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I noticed a weird patch on the drive just ahead of the TTs NSR wheel.

Not oil, not fuel (for once!) 

Ah arses:

20231028_105906.thumb.jpg.952db35f87fbc330d8773337ed6193f9.jpg

Shit picture but the brake line has swollen and corroded at the bracket and under its plastic coating.

Thankfully ahead of this looks good (picture is sideways)

20231028_105934.thumb.jpg.b90cd4ffbe7ed0b3c830611c296c4785.jpg

..and at the other end of the breach is a union.

I have all the tools and equipment to replace a section of line but not the experience so I'm going to have a look in YouTube to see if its something I feel confident in tackling. 

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More progress on the Fiesta today.

I decided to tackle the towbar wiring on this beast.

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A quality* installation of the wiring. A rat’s nest looks more appealing than this madman’s work.

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Ok, so this is the O/S rear lamp - all wiring present and correct, even though scotchlocks of doom have been applied in this instance.

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Here is the offending loose wire, which on closer inspection the yellow is the wire for the left hand indicator. Coupled with the length of the wire, this is likely the wire going to that. It seems that when Keith removed his 73” SUBWOOFAH and MEGGER SAHND INSTOWL from the boot, he’s knocked the wire off.

Let’s have a look at the other side.

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Bingo. That’s where the wire’s come from then.

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Fixed. I pushed dad’s trailer round to the back and connected things up. Because the trailer hasn’t been on the road for 20+ years, I’d imagined all the wires to be corroded and bulbs not working. 

But no. Lights came back to life with the exception of……the left hand indicator. FML. I don’t know what Keith has done but no dice on the wire. Unless I’ve not put the scotchlock together properly. I’ll sort it another day and if it fails the MOT for it then I’ll ask nicely if the tester could sort it out for me, he’s good like that.

More worryingly, when I was running the car for the trailer wiring faffing, there is a few wisps of blue smoke coming from the back, and on closer inspection it does seem it’s burning a bit of oil. I think this is the reason why it was at the auction now, Keith has absolutely ragged the bollocks off it and flogged it on. A bit of a shitty thing to do but I guess I’ll have to deal with it at the MOT. I’m hoping it’ll just scrape the emissions. As long as I can get a year out of it, I’ll be very happy. What I may do is stick some smoke additive in before the test and fingers crossed it’ll do enough to make it through.

I did check the PCV valve out of curiosity and it rattles so that’s working according to the interwebs. The hose going to the valve had a huge split in it, so I’ve expertly* repaired it with tape. This may be a contributing issue towards the smoke? I also took the air filter off and it’s absolutely fucking filthy so I’ll order up a new filter along with some plugs and a tin of snake jollop for the journey to the MOT place.

I won’t lie, I’ll be quite upset if it fails. Poor little car deserves a second chance on the road IMHO and it’s absolutely ideal for what I need it to do, especially with the towbar.

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30 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

I noticed a weird patch on the drive just ahead of the TTs NSR wheel.

Not oil, not fuel (for once!) 

Ah arses:

20231028_105906.thumb.jpg.952db35f87fbc330d8773337ed6193f9.jpg

Shit picture but the brake line has swollen and corroded at the bracket and under its plastic coating.

Thankfully ahead of this looks good (picture is sideways)

20231028_105934.thumb.jpg.b90cd4ffbe7ed0b3c830611c296c4785.jpg

..and at the other end of the breach is a union.

I have all the tools and equipment to replace a section of line but not the experience so I'm going to have a look in YouTube to see if its something I feel confident in tackling. 

Could clean it up and paint it to prolong its life. Depends how bad it is really. TADIS on TTs, especially near the rear wheels where they're exposed.

Personally I'd be getting a garage to do it with a lift. If it ends up being more than that short section of line, then it could end up being the whole section from the ABS block to the flexi connection that needs replacing. An arse of a job on your back with axle stands. 

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'94 Tipo 1.4ie progress   update:  A week ago I went over to the garage armed with the helpful guidance notes from here and the Fiat forum plus my multimeter and a test light.  The car's battery was down to just 3.4V,  somewhat limiting the tests I could do. I'll charge a spare battery for my next visit as it is parked in the repairs pending area and a bit too far to fiddle around with linked jump leads to reach the car.  With the ignition ECU connector disconnected to allow access to the pins on the free loom side (i.e. not the ECU), I could only obtain one or two readings, none of which suggested a definite problem.  A few days ago I saw a local eBay advertiser selling NOS Magneti Marelli crank sensors for £54 each.  A bit steep but all alternatives (equivalent part, not necessarily same make) were in Europe and by the time postage had been added there wasn't much in it, so I've bought and collected a sensor of the correct make and part number from the local chap.  I'll try to get over to fit it next week and also fit a charged battery so that I can do more meaningful tests on the connector when the car inevitably still refuses to start.  We will see. Perhaps it will surprise me.   

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2 hours ago, greengartside said:

 

I won’t lie, I’ll be quite upset if it fails. Poor little car deserves a second chance on the road IMHO and it’s absolutely ideal for what I need it to do, especially with the towbar.

AFAIK trailer wiring is only checked on the MOT if it's the new type of 21 pin connector.

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2 hours ago, junkyarddog said:

Indoor car show tomorrow, so seeing as it's Halloween I've decided to take Black Betty the Sierra Hearse.

Gave it a wash and polish this afternoon.

It's an extremely marmite vehicle. 

Will see how we get on.

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🎃🎃☠☠

Looking for business? 🤣

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12 hours ago, junkyarddog said:

Indoor car show tomorrow, so seeing as it's Halloween I've decided to take Black Betty the Sierra Hearse.

Gave it a wash and polish this afternoon.

It's an extremely marmite vehicle. 

Will see how we get on.

20231028_162820.thumb.jpg.f952073f68bce62aec6bae5c04311557.jpg

20231028_162900.thumb.jpg.77a33f453992905df939ab08a8dea170.jpg

🎃🎃☠☠

What do you normally use it for? 

I mean funerals for former members of the RS owners club must be a niche market. 

 

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