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Rust Collector

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  1. I should have bought this off you whilst you were still in Kent πŸ˜… it would be a nice sister motor for the BX. GLWTS
  2. @DavidB The rear drums on my Zastava were awful to work with, you could barely get any purchase on the springs and they would look like they were about to register in the hole and then they'd suddenly just fuck off on you. If you're working on the 126 then I suspect we have the same drum assembly. I was using the spanner trick, where you use the open end of a spanner like a hook, extend the spring towards the hole, catch the tip of the spanner in the hole and lever outwards - on most drums the spring slides out the open end and in to the hole without complaint. It's hard to explain in writing but there's some videos of it on youtube. However! Whilst looking at how to replace the rear shoes on a DAF 45 that we have in the family, I saw that they assembled the shoes and springs on the floor and lifted them on the the backing plate as one piece just as @sierraman says. It looked like a much easier method for vehicles where the springs are very awkward. If I was doing the Zastava again I would try to do it this way first knowing how much skin I lost last time πŸ˜… Edit* - I've just re-read the thread and I saw you're having trouble refitting the drums. Have you moved the shoes to their most inboard position on the adjusters? I found the resistance from the adjusters to be enough that I had to tap them with a mallet and a softwood block as a drift to get the full range of adjustment from them, I couldn't get them adjusted far enough inwards by hand. I'm assuming the shoes look something like these: If so then the large silver washers house the adjusters and so that's where you want to drive the shoes from in a horizontal axis to get the clearance for the drum. Ignore my knackered wheel cylinder lol, and apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!
  3. That's an outstanding purchase, well done. I am intensely jealous of that dashboard, it's incredible πŸ˜²πŸ˜…
  4. For tonight I think we will have a bit more of the work that I did on the Zastava earlier this year... So when I bought it, the brakes were all in the boot. Rear shoes, springs, refurbed front calipers, carriers, pads, hoses and clips. So I set about figuring out what went where and fitting it. Whoever mothballed it had cable tied down the rear brake cylinders to help with reassembly. As you can imagine, they did not slide back out afterwards πŸ˜… I didn't have replacements so started putting it together anyway as I'm impatient, but I did splash out Β£10 for a pair of replacements. One side done... note the gap between the shoes and the pistons! And the other side done in the dark for balance The springs were utter bastards, and as punishment for my impatience I had to tackle them twice. The locking washers on the shoe retaining pins and springs were not fun either, they were a little bit flexible and I had to give them some delicate fettling with a hammer and drift in order to stop them pinging off repeatedly. Got it sorted and the new cylinders on though so all good. With that we were on to the fronts. The threads on the carriers weren't looking too clever from where they'd been exposed to the atmosphere whilst removed, so they got a bit of love from the thread tap. I don't know why, but I find chasing threads very cathartic πŸ˜… Good as new lol Carrier, pads and pad retaining clips fitted A metal wedge is tapped in at the top and bottom of the calliper, then some little sprung clips stop it wiggling out the sides and your brake calliper ejecting. Sounds safe enough for me! The discs are a tad orange on the friction surface, but I reckon a few runs up and down the track at my parent's and it will come up fine. From what I can tell the discs were new, they have no lip whatsoever and the centres are still painted nicely. As before, the opposite side was done in the dark just to check I was paying attention the first time around. The front brake lines were in a pretty shitty state so I set about removing them whilst I was working on the front brakes. When removing them from the master cylinder, it was apparent that leaving the brakes removed whilst the car was stored had probably done more harm than good - it's very crusty in there. You can also see the poor state of the servo banjo union here too, which had just disentegrated. New parts then I guess. First the new Banjo union, hose and check valve. Yes, I do regret not getting fabric wrapped hose... Yes I probably will replace it just because it doesn't look quite right πŸ˜… More new parts Oh how naΓ―ve I was to think that I'd get away with reusing the rear brake line. That's a story for a later post though. That's one new line and an old hose fitted... the old hose has since been replaced in a later purge of old brake system components. Happily, the o/s front line runs under the cabin fan and heater matrix. Out they come then! That was a right pain in the arse. The cables for the various air flaps had no give in them, and I'm ham fisted at the best of times. Unbelievably, through the power of broken skin and swearing, the parts were removed and I had access to the brake line. I needn't have gone as far as pulling the fan out to get access, however it wasn't working. My limited diagnostics skills had determined that there was power all the way to the fan on both speed settings, so it was the fan that had a problem. I put it in the bedroom for good measure, as this would ensure that my partner would repeatedly ask when I was going to put it out in the garage where it should be. Eventually I'd cave and fix it this way πŸ˜… New brake line made up, another job which I quite enjoy to be fair. New line in, and the heater matrix looped out until I sorted the fan. Bled the brakes, and they were utter wank πŸ˜… New brake hoses ordered all round as I suspected that they may be blocked, in the meantime at least the handbrake now worked and so I could remove the small log that was previously doing brake duty. Whilst waiting for brake hoses, I started on the fuel system. The main issues were that the fuel lines were knackered, the fuel in the tank was ancient, and the fuel gauge didn't work. That's for the next post though!
  5. Thanks mate, I'm quite taken with it too after buying it purely on impulse - it says something that I find more motivation to work on this than I do to replace the gearbox on my V8 merc!! Thank you, I've fallen behind a bit with the Facebook post mainly because it's such a ball ache to add more pictures and text to it in the comment section. I have quite a soft spot for the 45, I think they're awesome little cars! This thread will probably be where my Zastava progress is recorded now, and then I will probably just post up on the Facebook group once the car is done.
  6. I guess we should go back to the Zastava now, and the work I was doing on it in January-ish Like the overgrown child I am, the most important thing now was to get it to run... Apologies to anyone who harbours feelings of sympathy towards starter motors. I did at least jack one wheel up and turn the engine over by hand first. Oh dear. Well, the fuel is from 1996... Best use old faithful Well, at least we know the engine works now! Next it's time to strip the carb and clean it out and adjust it. Spare wheel removed for easier working. Mouse food galore. A proud achievement... brittle plastic fitting removed without breaking it. I should have bought a lottery ticket. The carb is a model built under licence from Weber Spoiler alert - my car doesn't have the right carb fitted. But that's a ball ache for a later post when I'm stood holding the distributor vacuum advance line and wondering where the hell it should go. Carefully dismantling the float by ramming a screwdriver through the hinge Gave it a shake and there's no fuel in there which is good. There's some pretty disgusting fuel in the bowl though, and some nice jelly chunks So I gave it all a good clean. All the jets were removed and cleaned one by one, plus the emulsifier tube and anything else I could get a screwdriver on Time to check the diaphragm Should probably replace it, will do at some time - there's always time to do it right the second time. More jelly hiding behind the diaphragm Cleaned it all out, briefly lost the spring, found the spring and reassembled. Adjustments next. The choke was fine (from memory), but this arm wasn't right It needed a bit of help to get the full range of movement it should have. Luckily I found a carburettor rawl plug. Don't worry, I cut the tabs down later πŸ˜‰ I did try straightening the arm (it looks bent) but that didn't really help. I suspect I'll need to revisit this at some point, but for the sake of getting it running short term I'll live with it. Good enough for me... Although I did flush the green shit out the coolant passages before refitting. Hmm... Still not quite right. This might be why The banjo union at the brake booster had snapped. I reckon some air might have been getting in through there πŸ˜… Luckily I had a part in stock I ordered a new length of hose, a non return valve and a new banjo bolt and fitting. This would do for now though. Much better πŸ˜… At least she idles now and doesn't run away/stall under throttle. We will deal with the noxious fumes later. Next up, I work on the brakes whilst my lungs recover. More to come when I can be bothered to sift through more photos πŸ˜…
  7. I'm told that working on an a/c system is only allowed by those qualified to do so and that allowing the refrigerant to vent to atmosphere is very illegal (and so by proxy, knowingly filling a leaking system too), and so I tell a hypothetical story as of course I would not buy the freely available tools and materials to test and fill my own a/c systems. A man and his brother who had a fair quantity of old cars with tired a/c systems invested in manifold gauges, a vacuum pump, some of the combined gas/sealant from Halfords and some new schrader valves plus the special tool for swapping them. Most of the cars were found to have zero refrigerant in them, and when testing by drawing a vacuum and closing the gauges off to seal the system it was found that they lost vacuum fairly quickly - no point topping those up as they obviously have leaks in the system somewhere, so more investigation required. I'm assuming the correct way to do this would be to pressurise with inert gas and a dye, then check - I'm assuming the irresponsible way to check is to put the refrigerant in and see what happens, because hey, it says it has sealant in right?! Yeah, don't do that, I've heard it doesn't work πŸ˜… One car was found to have gas in it but not a high enough pressure to operate correctly. This car had the refrigerant and sealant added, and then the schrader valves replaced as apparently the sealant left on the outside will jam them shut when it reacts with air. The a/c ran great for a few months, but there was obviously a slow leak that the sealant did not seal as eventually the system lost pressure again and didn't work correctly. So, from the experience of those two chaps I would say that it isn't worth buying just for the sealant, as it seems to just be marketing wank. I think the rest is ethics and the law - is it ok to top up a car knowing it will leak again? πŸ€” Something interesting was that the bottles those chaps had did not carry any markings to say that they were R134a gas in them, just that they were compatible... So I'm unsure if the way Halfords get around the legality side of selling something you shouldn't be allowed to use is that you're not actually buying proper refrigerant, just some other gas blend that does a similar job and isn't regulated in the same way. I actually don't think that it is legal to sell refrigerant to the general public anymore. I'm no expert though so this is just my 2p, take it with a pinch of salt and all that and check with a responsible adult just to make sure πŸ˜…
  8. I've just read through this whole thread - absolutely fantastic stuff, these are really cool little cars. The blue one looks incredible, you must be really pleased!
  9. We get P0420 pop up every now and again on our H6 Legacy - Initially I was clearing down the code, but it would pop back up every now and again so I just leave it now... I'll turn it off for special occasions such as the MOT πŸ˜… From my research last year I found much the same as you, which was that most of the Subaru forum group thought agreed that the P0420 seems to sporadically crop up as the cars and sensors get older and that it isn't necessarily an indication that the catalyst has failed. Some recommended an O2 sensor spacer - I bought one to try out but I put it on the mantelpiece rather than on the car and my partner has cleaned up after me and put it somewhere safe/never to be seen again πŸ˜… Nice Forester by the way, I've always had a bit of a soft spot for them - we always seem to end up with a Legacy instead though, we're on number 6 now!
  10. It's a worry, isn't it πŸ˜† From what I understood, he worked mostly at harbours welding structures/boats and other things made of very thick metal. I seem to recall he said was paying someone else to weld the BX up when it needed the work as he didn't like welding the thin metal on cars. Having played around both arc and mig welding on thicker metal when knocking together bits and pieces with a mate who does fabricating, I can understand where he is coming from... I don't think there's anything worse than welding decades old sheet metal on scabby old cars πŸ˜…
  11. I've found that the MOT history site is normally fairly quick to update (whenever I drop stuff in for test I'm normally sat on the website at work hitting refresh to find out how bad the fail was before the garage call πŸ˜†) but I've noticed the alternative gov site that just shows tax and MOT status can take a couple of days to update the tax status at times. Sometimes when I forget to tax the stuff I've bought then it takes even longer πŸ˜… If you've got the confirmation email I wouldn't be worried at all, it's just the gov site being slow and clunky to update the database.
  12. Thanks mate, I’m glad it’s of some interest πŸ‘πŸ» I use the Favorit and Insight as daily drivers so I’m fairly easy to spot if I’m out πŸ˜… I only commute from seaford to newhaven though so it’s a very small window of opportunity to spot me πŸ˜‚
  13. I tend to post to the various owner’s groups as and when I do bits and pieces, but I find it a pain in the arse to document a project long term on Facebook as it isn’t very easy to go back through the content and find things. The Facebook groups are great for the combined model specific knowledge base though so it’s swings and roundabouts really πŸ˜…
  14. Back to the list of projects, another car that's easy to write about is the SLK320 the my brother and I picked up last year as a joint project - my brother is 6 years younger than me and just started spannering in the last couple of years, so I've duly taken him under my wing and I'm doing all I can to traumatise him with shite cars and the work involved with keeping them running. Whilst shopping for a gearbox at the merc breaker's run by a friend of a friend for my E430 (and eventually buying an AMG V8 lump as well), my eye was caught by this scruffy old thing. You'll notice the nearside arch is on the piss, this is because the control arm had snapped on the last owner whilst the car was being driven and is why it ended up at the yard. The monoblocks were what caught me initially, and then the V6 engine drew me in further. I hadn't visited for a car though, so I left it behind and tried not to think of it. But like an inappropriate pass from your partner's friend at a party, whilst you can try your best not to think about it or act on it, an inevitable course of disaster has been set. A few weeks later I stopped in whilst passing and asked if I could have a poke around inside. The engine was knackered and the gearbox was done for, and those with sense probably would have walked away. They had an E320 in for breaking though, and reassuring myself that the monoblocks would offset most of my spend I asked about them sorting me out with a spare engine and gearbox if I took the car. We shook on Β£600 for the car as it stood, plus the engine and box out of the E Class. I got the car transported home, and nicked my Mum's pickup to grab the spare motor and gearbox. Random fact, I went with my Mum to view that truck with her, and when we arrived at the viewing it was Micheal Cooper (son of John Cooper) selling it as it was his truck that he used for gardening and didn't need it anymore πŸ˜… I think it still only has about 45k miles on the clock, and my Mum has been running it for a few years now! We didn't waste much time pulling the old motor out, here she is mid surgery. Not many photos taken I'm afraid, the original plan was to rattle through the work and use the car as it still had MOT... Then things got a bit mad on the Covid front, and my brother being a manager for a food delivery company suddenly found himself with little time spare. I didn't want to have the fun/pain to myself and him to miss out, so it sat neglected on my driveway for some time. We did do some fettling to the engine on the odd occasion, as the E Class has the starter on the wrong side so we had to cut a hole for it to got the correct side, and had the starter flange machined down a bit to provide the right engagement (Inevitable pain in my arse later). I seem to recall I had to swap the inlet plenum too, and a few other bits. The manifolds were different too, due to the space restrictions in the SLK engine bay, but again they were easy to swap. On my week off work we spent 3 days fighting the new engine back in. I can't say I'd like to do it again, the engine bay is crazy tight and long and the engine and gearbox combined is probably on the limit for my cheapo chinesium crane at full extension. We got there though with the supervision of a responsible being It's looking a bit more together in there now. We still need to repair the wing as it was badly damaged when the control arm snapped but a replacement is about Β£250!! New front arms are on the cards also. We have also swapped on some cheaper alloys for now as we will possibly sell the monoblocks. One small problem is that I didn't get enough machined off the starter πŸ˜… So I will sadly have to try and get that removed at some point. I feel like this car may get left to sit for a little bit as I'm really not looking forward to that job!!!
  15. It was absolutely heaving all the way from Rye to Camber on Sunday morning, I felt quite guilty as it must be a real pain in the arse for the locals having the access roads completely blocked by tourists. I know out our way in Seaford the A259 was bad on Sunday because people were dumping their cars on the verge of the clearway so they could walk down to Tidemills, and the bus service to Tidemills was cancelled as some inconsiderate wankers had parked in the bus stop as per usual. But yes, it does make a nice change to fix something and then actually have it work for a bit!! 😁
  16. Well I've been busy procrastinating instead of posting progress. In an effort to avoid remembering/writing up Zastava work, here's a quick return back to the present. I took a week off work so that I could crack on with a couple of bits, namely finishing the head gasket on the Favorit and finally putting the engine back in the SLK320. The cylinder head had returned from the machine shop and was still well within the service limit which was good. Here we see the mating face of the head whilst it's on the bench in the clean room πŸ˜… Whilst the head was off I replaced the valve stem seals using the appropriate tools... I don't have a parts washer, so I fixed that by purchasing a secondhand dishwasher for Β£20. I had to temporarily put it on the driveway by the hose/kitchen drain as there's no suitable points to hook it up elsewhere, it really adds to the decor along with the 2 spare engines, alloy wheels, unfinished project cars.... Luckily the section of driveway I work on is inside of a courtyard area between my front garden and rear garden and I have privacy gates and fence all the way around so that the neighbours aren't able to see anything that might upset them πŸ˜… I did put the dishwasher away neatly in the garage afterwards in order to appease my other half though. For anyone who needs to know, the thread for a garden tap hose adapter is the same as the thread for an appliance hose... New head gasket offered up, not the best template used at manufacture imo but the holes were where they needed to be and although you may be surprised by this after seeing the clean room and all the specialist tools at our disposal, we aren't quite working to F1 engineering tolerances πŸ˜… So I thought about trying to get a better gasket, imagined that it would be difficult to find one locally that I could inspect first, and pressed on with the one I had. I then bolted everything back in. Couldn't find my angle gauge for the life of me, so the final 2 stages on the head bolts were done with a calibrated marker pen and laser guided eyeball. When I picked up the service manual for the valve clearances, I discovered that although I put them back in the order they came out the engine, somebody working on the car prior to me had muddled them up. Some of the Favorit engines have a mix of steel and ally push rods, and in these engines it's important that the right rods are put in the right place due to the thermal expansion characteristics of the different metals. Mine had the ally ones on the exhaust valves which was wrong, the exhaust valves should only ever use steel rods whereas the inlet valves can have either a steel rod or ally rod and there is a different tolerance depending on the material. And finally all back together again. I had some new coolant hoses that I bought a while back so they went in as well. I gave the engine bay a quick wash as it was pretty dirty, excuse the monstrosity that is the remains of my bonnet liner... She started and ran, so she was rewarded with a bath. After a bit of gentle local testing, her first real challenge was to deliver us to the beach on Sunday. Despite living by the beach, we decided to go for a run to Camber. We left early to beat the traffic... which still ended up with us queuing for an hour and a half in sweltering heat!! I think we can say the job was a success though, as this was the hottest it got!! So we can file this one in the 'fixed' pile for now. In the near future I will need to do a bit of repair work to the roof (there is a hole where the antenna mounts, which the last owner filled with what feels like polyfilla) and I reckon some new top mounts and spring seats wouldn't be a bad idea as I've got some clunks here an there when turning the wheels at low speed.
  17. First job on the Zastava was to clean the mould and spiders out so that I could work in there without constantly being worried about getting touched by a spider or mould. Carpets weren't too bad (in relative terms, not accounting for style or good taste), if you ignore the mouse skeleton RIP mouse. The car will be much cleaner now you're gone. A shampoo of the fabrics on the seats and carpets should bring it all up nicely, however it was cold damp weather at the time of the first clean so it wasn't practical to bust out the Bissell back then. I keep meaning to dab some vinyl cleaner on the sides and rears too! I can't find any decent pictures taken during daylight, but I also went over all the hard surfaces with some APC and a microfiber clothe, before dressing it with 303 Aerospace - I bought some after watching a valeter on youtube rave about it, and it's actually pretty decent stuff. It's brought up the plastics in the 311 and BX brilliantly, without making them greasy or too shiny. On to the outside, it was time to get the rotary paint fucker out again. Disclaimer, I have no idea what I'm doing with one of these, so view at your own discretion. I've got some in progress shots just because I personally find it satisfying seeing the oxidation getting cut back! A little bit of glass cleaner on the clear bits (I love pop out windows, not sure why 😁) All done to the best of my limited ability: And then how about a grille for a final touch? Much better!! Next up I think there's some dickery involving stripping the carb and trying to get her started on the ancient fuel in the tank, or I may have decided to put brakes on so that I could remove the safety log from the rear wheel, I can't quite remember. I'll have a sort through and see if I can put together something intelligible.
  18. Yeah, you've got to love working on things like inner sills or arches whilst lying on your back under the car... No room for a mask so you end up stunt welding with your eyes shut, a process guaranteed to produce a beautiful weld πŸ˜… It's also inevitable that some molten metal will drop down your sleeve and bore a hole in your arm at some point when you're working with your arms up in the air. I've been admiring your commitment to repairing the rot on this Rav4, because a) I think they're brilliant trucks which are getting rarer so it's good to see one being saved and b) I've got a Subaru Legacy that needs almost identical welding doing to it which I've been putting off for ages because I know it's going to be an utter ball ache. Seeing your progress is very enouraging!
  19. We should probably talk about the Zastava now. I've been putting it off, as I have a folder of photos for each project and I already have about 550 photos and videos of the 311... I'm really not enjoying sifting back through them and figuring out what the hell I was doing at the time I took each picture. There's probably going to be quite a few individual posts before I'm up to date on this car, hopefully some people manage to make it all the way through my ramblings and see the progress that has been made πŸ˜… So loop back to January, and I was concerned that some of the money I put aside for a rainy day was at risk of being used on something sensible if not spunked away on a car quickly enough and so I started teasing myself with a bit of facebook market place, scumtree, the usual sorts of hiding places for the shite we like. Cue an advert in the UK Zastava Facebook group appearing for a non-runner barn find 311 that apparently had been in storage since 1996, all for a low low idiot attracting price... How could I say no! A trip in a recovery truck to Salisbury later, and here she was waiting for me - barn fresh! Loading up was no drama, although all 4 brakes were in the boot so I did stop and check my straps a mile down the road just to make sure she wasn't going anywhere! Once home I had a poke and a prod around to see what I was dealing with, lots of photos taken at this point The brakes are in here apparently! Luckily the vehicle has already been quality checked, so presumably I don't need to check anything... Spiders and mouse food galore. As previously mentioned, I cannot stand spiders! Original document pack, service book expertly redacted in MS paint to protect the identity of someone who actually thought buying one of these was a good idea πŸ˜… All the tools you should ever need to repair a Zastava I'm trawling through the next batch of photos, it's mainly the interior getting cleaned up and the outside being washed and having the paint cut back - not the most exciting stuff, but if you're like me it's satisfying to see the transformation. From inspecting the car, from memory the basic priorities were get it cleaned up, get it started, install the brakes, service it and try for an MOT. This is a gross oversimplification of course πŸ˜†
  20. Whilst looking through my photos to write up the progress on the head gasket, I realised I forgot a small episode in the recent history of the Favorit... I was on a short run seeing how the lowered suspension impacted the ride, and the car cut out on me. I could get it to start again, but if I pressed the throttle then the rev counter would drop to zero, and shortly after the engine would struggle and cut out. After a bit of a chat with a mate who had experienced and resolved similar issues on his Favorit, we decided that the crank sensor was probably suspect. Lo and behold, my 'it'll be alright' application of RTV on the thermostat housing when I replaced the thermostat (and realised the thermostat didn't come with a gasket...) was not alright, and the sensor was having a bath. I wouldn't have thought a bit of liquid could cock it up that bad, so it may be coincidence and it's just at end of life anyway, but either way it's not right. Part number for reference: The original part isn't available, so you have to detach part of the wiring loom to reach the shorter Felica sensor that you can still source and use All was well for a while after this repair. Then one morning when leaving for work, the car cut out on a junction. Luckily there was a bus stop beside the junction, so I coasted to the side and called my partner and requested thunderbird support. One ripped towing eye and an argument later (it was my fault πŸ˜…) we dumped the car close to home and went to work. After work I limped it home and put my diagnostician hat on Oh dear. This qualified the Skoda for a trip to my parents house, which being an old farm is a suitable place for dumping crapped out motors that you don't want to look at for a bit. It helps with motivation too, as if you leave things there long enough you get repeatedly asked when things are going to be fixed and moved until you actually have to do something. Unfortunately, on the way to the farm the Favorit cut out at the beach. Happily, it was a free parking area so I could just dump it there for a bit. After a while of being sat there I finally felt guilty enough to go and move the car, this time with the world's smallest trailer and my brother in tow. In to the corner of shame you go! Join the cursed Clio DCi that I just can't fucking get to run right. I left it to marinade for a bit, then brought it down to the hard standing where surgery is normally performed. Photo for the benefit of letting you see my merc and my brother's Celica. Better do some work then Found my engine bay exhaust leak... Push rods for dummies... Head off, not too bad not too great... Was expecting a more drastic failure Cleaned the block up Then cleaned the tops of the wet liners, got the disappointer out and measured the liner heights. I reckon they're all ok, they seem to measure about 0.08-0.10mm each. Gave the head a quick clean to inspect it, there's some very mild pitting in 2 places but it should skim out and still be within the service limit. It's with the machine shop now, should get it back in a week or so as they've just been forced out of their unit and their kit is spread over a few sites now. Other places further afield could do it further, but I'd rather use a local chap and also I like to work as slowly as possible anyway πŸ˜… More on the Skoda once I get the head back and put her back together. Hopefully it all goes ok, but it's obviously playing on my mind as just this morning I was woken up by a dream where I was driving the Skoda home from work after repairing it and the temp gauge was fluctuating wildly πŸ˜†
  21. This a million times, bar the German part πŸ˜… I've had a few old Audis, VW's, BMW's, and Mercs, and they were all cars that whilst well ahead of their Jap contemporaries in refinement and finish (late 90's early 00' cars that I had mainly), they were definitely much more frustrating to live with in terms of reliability compared to the Hondas, Toyotas, Subarus etc. that I've run. Always found that things like Honda's are a piece of piss to work on as well compared to the Euro stuff. The cheapest motoring I ever had was a 2.0 Avensis SE. I bought it for Β£200, did something like 12-15k miles in it over about a year before I got bored, and in that time I changed the oil and filter once and had to replace the thermostat for Β£3. I had to replace a tyre too, but can't blame the car for a slow puncture. It was doing about 38-42mpg on long runs as it was the lean burn model with long gears, and I had specifically bought it as I was going out with a girl near Wales and the fuel cost in my Granvia V6 was killing me driving up from Sussex. When I sold it I think I got about Β£250 for it on eBay. If I found myself in a fix needing a cheap, reliable motor then I'd be looking for a late 90's petrol Toyota or Honda personally.
  22. Replacement of the lines was definitely on the cards - I have a nice flare tool that is capable of making the flares that the Citroen hydropneumatic system requires, I just need to invest in more dies. I think I priced it up at about Β£60 to get the full set, which isn't outrageous really when you look at what some places charge for replacement lines. As it happens the last job I did on the 311 was actually replacing every single brake line on the car... It all started with a perished rubber hose at the back with a very rusted union, and from there each subsequent line was so knackered that I had no choice but to remove everything and start over. It's quite nice to know that they should never need replacing again in the likely lifetime of the car, and I think it cost me about Β£15 in copper line and Β£10 for the oddball unions the whole system uses. Loads of pics from the process, so will hopefully get that all up at some point soon!
  23. So the last instalment on the BX to pretty much bring us up to date bar anything I've forgotten is the bit of poking around looking for rust I've done, followed by the bit of mopping I did on the paint (I'm no expert, and the paint is really shit anyway, so please don't expect miracles or correct techniques) in anticipation of moving the car to the front section of my driveway where the neighbours can see it. So, rust it is then; I should think there's a very good chance I will be removing the rear beam and doing a fair amount of work at the back here. The above pic is the chassis rail running under the boot, the right side of the photo is the front of the o/s/r wheel well. Below is a photo looking back from the rear axle towards the o/s/r corner of the boot floor. Sorry for the crap photo, but my phone is rubbish in the dark. Both sides are like this, along with the outer edges of the rear bumper beam. When I had all the carpets out I didn't find anything bad in the actual floor pan, and the boot floor seems good too. Most of the stuff that has rotted out is flat and square in shape which is handy, so I'm not too concerned about the fabrication of replacement sections, but I can't say I'm looking forward to removing the rear beam... I can imagine the hydropneumatic kit makes that a ball ache of a job. Up front, both strut mounts need attention, along with the seam along the inner wing. There's a gaping hole at the back of the n/s/f wheel well also, and seeing as the plates where the check straps mount to the A pillars is flexing and crunching like mad as you move the doors I suspect I will be removing the dashboard to rectify the holes in the front properly. My o/s B pillar has a hole too, but I'll just patch that - she's not destined to be concourse, I just want functional and clean enough that the neighbours don't get scared. A recap of the shitty parts up front There's more holes, but I gave up photographing them in the end πŸ˜… As a distraction I busted out the rotary paint fucker and took lots of 'in progress' photos as I cut back the oxidation. I took the roof rails off, amazingly they came free without issue so I ran a tap and die over everything before reassembly She's nowhere near perfect, the paint is split and chipped all over the place, plenty of crazing in the bonnet as well. But considering my lack of skill and technique, and the turd I started with, I was quite pleased with how she came up. I didn't like looking out the window and seeing it sat there looking faded and sad lol. That pretty much brings me all the way up to date with the BX. Exterior points that need sorting are almost entirely made up of panel and chassis repair. I'm hoping to get started within the next month or so, when I'm able to take time off my day job and work in the warm weather.
  24. Ah ok, no distance at all then really. Funnily enough I used to have a barn out at Rose Hill back when my collecting was really out of hand!
  25. Thanks guys πŸ™‚ Things will be a little slower once I'm up to date and you get to see how much time I spend procrastinating rather than working πŸ˜… I love it, but it has a lot of holes in it, so it will definitely test my welding ability lol. I was really hoping to replace the tail lights with smoked ones, but I can't see that you can get them for an estate sadly! It's going to be tango lights forever it would seem. I'm over in Seaford, but East Sussex isn't the biggest place so I'm sure I'm not that far out from you if you're on the Eastern end. If you do have a sort out I'd be up for having a nose through any BX bits, I reckon you can never have too many car parts decorating the garage!
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