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Everything posted by SiC

  1. Don't forget I have the Dolomite Sprint lurking in the background still wanting lots of attention! 😑 I am actively looking for a Spitfire (sub £3k really). However I only want a recommissioning project and definitely not another restoration project!
  2. Took the day off today to try getting this further along. Started off this morning going into town and picking up some bits. Also decided to sign up to the library. I actually really did that as I wanted to look inside this building. Unfortunately the library is moving out as this building apparently needs too much work and the council don't have the funds to repair it. I really hope it doesn't get flattened. Bet it will though. 😒 I spent a good few hours trimming and fitting this side panel to make the fit (nearly) perfect. The key thing is the holes as they need to line up for the outer wing. As other panels go on top, they need to line up with everything. There is some wiggle room and they can be opened up some more but I wanted them close. Likewise those captive nuts need to line up to the a post for fitting in the brace piece. Once finally happy I tacked it into place. Then plug welded and ground them back. Forgot to take a picture between those two processes. Managed some impressive panel warpage on the inside 🤣 I used the wood to push into place and tack. I'll run a bead along later. Another horrible job in that footwell. I also still need to patch that little piece at the end of the footwell. Chucked some zinc primer. Spot where an idiot leant against the wet paint. Also started cutting out some of the rear upright and diagonal bracing. I'll cut the last bits out once the a-post hinge panel is in. I'm trying to keep these box steel pieces as I'll need to brace the rear boot area when I cut that out. Next will be the a-post hinge plate. I grabbed the door and bolted the hinge panel on and put into place. Checked everything still lined up, including this outer finishing panel. It's a useful check with those holes again. Then marked up at the bottom so I can make sure it's straight. Also double checked the back panel mostly lines up when clamped. It's starting to look more like a car again now. The door a post hinge panel and a-post outer finisher is next to weld on. Then back to that rear arch. That will take a bit longer as I need to fabricate some pieces to reconstruct the inner rear arch.
  3. It was a good little run around but I don't think I could go from 180bhp to 75bhp without it feeling a little frustrating 🤣 If the TT was an almighty MOT fail on last Tuesday, it probably would be a little different!
  4. Looking at that picture there is a clamp in the middle. Would the factory do that? I'd thought they'd have done one piece exhaust. So maybe the cat back is aftermarket put on sometime in its life? If so then from experience then can vary in quality a fair bit. I imagine the exhaust system on it is cheap as chips mind.
  5. Don't forget to put the fake (factory fitted) exhaust tip back on if you replace the backbox. 😁 In finding that photo, I found these photos from what the exhaust looked like last year. I think I was admiring how clean and rust free underneath was after being under rusty BL stuff for too long!
  6. Wahoo! A good little car that one. Don't remember the exhaust being that bad a condition though. Another to add to your list of exhausts to sort 🤣 Tbh exhaust in poor condition should not be an advisory, not least it's manual entry which DVSA are trying to stop testers using.
  7. Yeah that's Panhard65 (now predominantly on TDW) personal reg and that's the name of his garage.
  8. Set to work welding a repair piece into the front floor pan tonight. Cut a clean edge out to weld against. I didn't plan to butt weld this but actually ended up easier to as nowhere really to get a clamp in. The two pieces of metal level made it easy to get a magnet in. This was an absolutely horrible job to do. Leant across the sharp metal inside with my head in the footwell. Wearing goggles, respirator, welding hood and helmet made it a tight uncomfortable fit. I also got blue light shining on the wrong side of the helmet too. Presumably reflecting off the top of the footwell. I really hope the Sand Man doesn't come to visit me tomorrow 😬 Safety goggles are supposed to stop 99.99% of UV light, so that should offer some extra protection. Repair tacked in first on the floor Then onto the inner sill afterwards It's done now. I will need to weld up the front underneath a bit as I appear I went too far with the cutting disc. Also have a small patch to sort at the top of the footwell. Then a case of getting the side panel welded into place. Only the A-post hinge panel and cover to go after that, which allows me to cut the bracing back out. That will need to be reused on the boot/bumper panel. Before the bumper panel, I need to get back to finish what I started this side with and that rear quarter panel. Still a chunk to go but it does feel like I'm getting close. Now the sill is on and once the side panel/a-post is on, it'll feel much more complete and nearer to the end goal.
  9. Two extreme ends of the market though. Top is MK1 and worth the most out of the boggo minis. Bottom is 80s and worth the least out of boggo mini. Top one in that condition though is worth £2k max. I've seen better projects go less than for what they are asking.
  10. Halogen. As mentioned, it had manual adjusters. Xenon don't have manual adjusters.
  11. The Fabia that I used to own (now owned by Stanky) failed it's MOT before I owned it on headlight adjustment not working in 2021. That was a manual headlight adjustment. Sounds like you got lucky and maybe the tester didn't pay close enough attention to its operation when testing.
  12. Might not have been part of the MOT then but it is now https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-1-5 Make sure any manual headlamp levelling devices (driver controls) work by: - switching on the dipped beam headlamps - operating the manual levelling device - checking that the headlamp beams move up and down - returning the levelling device control to its original position
  13. Blackcircles had PS4 for £430 to replace all four corners which is a pretty good price.
  14. Garage said the slight exhaust blow it's the flexi between the manifold and cat. Also said it wasn't particularly bad and don't bother touching it until it gives more grief/noise. I'm still very happy with this car. Does everything I need it to just fine. More than enough poke to make A-road and B-road dawdlers overtaking easy. 36mpg or so on the motorway when using cruise control. Quattro useful in inclement weather. Seats very comfy for long distances and bum warmers heat up quickly. Cheap enough that I don't care that it now has door dings all along the side from train station/town/gym parking. Slightly annoying as it was immaculate along the sides but meh it is still a cheap car so don't need to get stressed about it. Not perfect as water is either still getting into the footwell or not drying out properly. I'd still have preferred a V6 and DSG for a better driving experience. If one in the right price come up (MK1 or even a MK2), I may still change. However at the same time this is generally being a solid, reliable car and I don't really need any more. So hard to justify spending out more for a V6. But I'm more than happy enough to justify chucking money at it now with stuff like the cambelt and water pump.
  15. I've booked in the cambelt for later this month and I'll get the tyres changed after that. Still tread to scrub down and I don't want to spend out on tyres for sods law to snap the belt. Especially as I'm probably going to go for premium tyres. 3hrs labour for the belt and water pump, so doesn't sound like a bad job nor expensive. Not sure if placebo but it felt better driving back. More linear when turning in on corners. The steering wheel is even more cock eyed than it was before (it was out before) but at least it sits mostly level. I didn't want to spend out for alignment until these springs were all the same. Apparently an absolute bastard of a job, especially on the rears where driveshafts, suspension arms and shit are all in the way. So glad I didn't attempt to do it on my driveway. £120 well spent getting someone else to do it! Springs were like £35, so £155 all in for 4 springs changed I think is extremely reasonable. Before After Glad I got all four done to match properly. I did like the idea of higher suspension for more squish but I think that would have buggered the geometry up. Given it's on 18s, it still rides pretty well. At least to me.
  16. The garage I use tend not to do brake disc advisories or advisories in general, so presumably these might be quite bad. I'll have a chat and see what they say. I was worried about the manual headlight height adjustment failing as it's temperamental (not that it matters or useful on the TT) but seems like that was playing ball today.
  17. Brakes work fine so probably won't bother until the pad warning light comes on.
  18. Not too bad result for the TT MOT today. Knackered tyres are a good thing as excuse to chuck away the ditch finders and put something decent on. Glad the brake pedal sensor behaved itself and didn't chuck up the traction control light. Got a set of brand new springs they are fitting too. Should sort out the lopsidedness and hopefully steering straight.
  19. It's a thing that I think @dieselnutjob may know. Unfortunately he's not been on for a month or so.
  20. Sounds like you had a lucky escape. Did you get the BCM sorted? Is it the BCM control and drive the fans?
  21. Just noticed Portwest Bizweld do overalls with a hoodie too. Neat! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194202883382
  22. The hoods aren't that expensive. Also have the bonus in this weather of keeping heat in too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323036641168 My boiler suit is flame retardant too. It's stopped a good few molten balls burning through and setting me alight. Only ever had one big near miss incident when I didn't do up my suit and a hot ball rolled down my top into my bottom half. Did the dance to try keeping it away from the delicate bits as it carried on its destructive path! I did put a few holes into a decent t-shirt I was wearing underneath. As I only went out to tack a few bits, I didn't bother getting fully changed into scruffs. Sods law and made it necessary to explain to the wife on quite what had just happened. 😅
  23. I keep looking at one and then bulk at the £500 to £1k a decent setup costs. Probably won't in a few decades when it catches up with me. What comes out your nose is only part of what must have gone into the lungs! 😬
  24. Old picture but this is generally what I'm wearing when it's getting too smelly and/or firey. A bit clumbersome but so far I haven't had any big incidents. The head covering makes a big difference in stray sparks causing mayhem! I don't wear the respirator enough though as I get lazy but then regret it when blowing my nose later. I always wear goggles not just because I've had sparks roll on the inside of my visor, but it blocks 99.9% of UV. A lot of people don't realise but it's not the bright light that makes The Sand Man come to visit, but the UV emitted from the electrical arc
  25. I wasn't happy with the fit of the sill where I had it a few extra millimetres higher than the inner sill, so I cut back it off to try again. Re-clamped it to line up closely to the inner sill. That gave just enough room for the hinge panel to fit correctly. With that correct, I double checked with all the panels clamped into place to check for alignment. Everything seemed good so I tacked the top and then plug welded along the holes. I measured some spot welds elsewhere on the body and found they varied around 1.5 inch to 1.3 inch and sometimes a lot less. Basically it seemed whatever the factory worker decided as they went. With that in mind, I chose 1.25 inches. Plug welding is always something I struggle at. I cranked up the power and wire speed a lot. Seemed to be okay and generally got good penetration. Then had the fun job of the welding bottom. Sparks and hot molten balls in your face. Ground down the top and chucked some zinc primer I had to hand. Was going to grind the bottom too but tea was ready and I CBA to go out again this evening. Next job is to weld up the front footwell to the inner sill. This disintegrated from a rusty edge when I cut the old inner sill off. There is already a patch at the back so it's probably an original floorpan. I'll just put a right angle patch along and weld both sides. But I need to do that before I weld that side panel on while I have good access. The eagle eyed will have noticed the reminder on the panel so I don't forget.
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