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Skizzer's SD1: Tomorrow's Car, Yesterday. Fixerations, with mixed results


Skizzer

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Either way, have a piece of carpet or a jacket or something to cover the catch with in case you do open it, you don't want it to fall shut and lock again.

 

Or flick the catch shut while the boot is open.

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The seat back doesn't lift out as I'd hoped - there's no room for the latch to clear the striker without fouling the housing. You can sort of see it in the picture. This was a setback, and led to swearing.

 

post-4091-0-71816600-1514984284_thumb.jpg

 

However there was enough movement in the seat back to get a wrench under the parcel shelf and lever it free on one side without doing serious damage to it, which meant I could just get my fingers to the seat back release handle. The handle is a big recessed lever that you have to slide through a 180 degree arc - it's completely over-engineered. More swearing happened but I got there in the end.

 

post-4091-0-35648500-1514984474_thumb.jpg

 

So finally I'm in. Actually releasing and then fixing the boot mechanism is a job for another day.

 

 

This rings a bell actually (mine is cort16's old one). Turning the key left and right while operating the handle. More of a quick, flicking turn of the key...

Good suggestion but already tried it, to no avail.
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Once the tooling's been scrapped / destroyed, that's all folks!

 

quite a lot of tooling for Triumph stuff has been reproduced using some soft of rubber block technology, needs smoller press and for low volumes can produce panels cost effectively,

 

SOCTFL is an independent company that is looking into filling gaps of unobtainium in stag circles

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Once the tooling's been scrapped / destroyed, that's all folks!

 

I think the tooling was scrapped a while ago, as far as I'm aware Rimmers have for the last decade or so only been selling off the massive hoard of Indian panels they bought cheap.

 

There was a company - whose name I've forgotten - that made a full set of fibreglass SD1 panels, admittedly they did need a fair bit of fine tuning prior to fitting and they cost as much as steel ones, but I reckon they're the way forward given the propensity of the steel ones to rot away to nothing (although the Indian ones last far, far better) and the prospect of the supply of new ones drying up.

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quite a lot of tooling for Triumph stuff has been reproduced using some soft of rubber block technology, needs smoller press and for low volumes can produce panels cost effectively,

 

SOCTFL is an independent company that is looking into filling gaps of unobtainium in stag circles

There's also these chaps producing more or less anything you like as long as you have a good panel to use as a pattern. I've got a feeling there are other firms using the same technology but I can't recall the names and google is not helping.
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However there was enough movement in the seat back to get a wrench under the parcel shelf and lever it free on one side without doing serious damage to it, which meant I could just get my fingers to the seat back release handle. The handle is a big recessed lever that you have to slide through a 180 degree arc - it's completely over-engineered. More swearing happened but I got there in the end.

Oh well done! :-)

 

Is the parcel shelf demountable, so that you could leave it sitting in place but loose, sufficiently to give future access if needed, without it being in danger of flying forwards in the event of an emergency stop/accident?

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  • 1 month later...

So, you’ll recall in last month’s cliffhanger our intrepid hero* had hacked his way into the boot in his attempt to release the failed tailgate lock/latch, only to be thwarted by the forces of BL industrial design.

 

I beat a retreat to regroup and source some more specialised ordnance - to whit, some ultra low profile right-angle screwdrivers, as found by HoneyBadger:

 

These were indeed perfect for getting to the screw holding the plastic trim in place:

 

post-4091-0-74421600-1519584872_thumb.jpeg

 

With that plastic trim moved out of the way I could easily get to the three bolts securing the striker plate, below the ‘J’ in this photo:

 

post-4091-0-72513200-1519584976_thumb.jpeg

 

Undoing those meant the tailgate could finally lift, bringing the whole latch mechanism with it.

 

post-4091-0-05197500-1519585139_thumb.jpeg

 

Yay!

 

It still didn’t want to let go, but it was now easy to unbolt the latch and manually trip the spring. Removing some more trim and undoing the two 7mm nuts you can see in the second photo above releases the lock and catch from the tailgate.

 

post-4091-0-63886600-1519585569_thumb.jpeg

 

I gave everything a bit of a clean (much grime was present) and lots of 3-in-1 and it all seemed a bit happier. I suspect all is not well with the central locking solenoid, which was in the disengaged (locked) position and possibly stuck there. So I engaged it, then put everything back together.

 

And bugger me, it works! Well, I had to fiddle with the striker plate a bit to make it latch, and it still needs more of a slam than it should, but at least it unlatches again at will.

 

I’ve also confiscated the parcel shelf until it proves it can behave itself.

 

 

 

However - fear not, the shite equilibrium remains in balance because...

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...the shite equilibrium remains in balance because I fired it up to go for a celebratory drive and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor.

 

“It’s fine,” I said. “It’s just been standing. Start it in gear and I t’ll free itself off as soon as you drive around a bit.”

 

So I did, and it didn’t.

 

So I put it away again. Let me tell you, reversing a slightly over-revving V8 barge with no clutch into a garage that’s already half full of Lancia Gamma is a bit of a test of nerve, but fortunately all the nuns and kittens survived.

 

It then occurred to me to check the state of the clutch fluid:

 

post-4091-0-52526300-1519586423_thumb.jpeg

 

Oh.

 

Not sure if there’s just a leak somewhere or if I’ve bust the seal on the master or slave cylinder. I’ll be cross if it’s the latter as they were both refurbished not long ago.

 

I chucked some DOT4 in and no change, but it’ll need bleeding which will have to wait until next time; we’ll see if that fixes it.

 

Don’t miss next week’s exciting* episode, folks.

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As a former SD1 owner can I ask if that is the high tide mark of the boot pool under the J?

 

Edit. Sorry, I can now see it isn't rust. Sorry for the slur on your fine car!

How very dare you! That is the Nylonest Nylon carpet in the world, in a sort of Dale Winton orangey gold colour.

 

It is - mine also has a plimsoll line.

To be fair though, mine does indeed have a tide mark too - it’s just somewhat south of that photo.
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Lovely cars these. David Bache was so skilled. His first job I think was the Austin A30 dashboard - moving from round to square speedo - he was sacked I think in the end by Harold Musgrove the Chairman of Austin Rover because of the design of the Montego prototype. Whenever I see an SD1 - wow so low so sleek. 

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  • 3 months later...

Hmph. Back on page 5 (August 2015) I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders; they appear to have failed again.

 

The pedal just goes to the floor. I looked in the master cylinder reservoir and it was empty, which surprised me as there was no obvious puddle.

 

I’ve now put some more DOT4 in and bled it with my Eezibleed, but there’s no improvement. My bottle of DOT4 isn’t in the first flush of youth so I’ll have another go with some fresh supplies next weekend before I take it apart and get grumpy.

 

I know how shiters love pictures so here’s the Rover up on ramps, again.

 

post-4091-0-79864200-1527533003_thumb.jpeg

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