M'coli

It gives a whole new meaning to "Yir Da sells Avon"...

Right, I've been thinking about the seat ratchet, and need convincing that it's ok. If you've repaired the mount, bolted it in and the ratchet works fine (by that I mean emergency-stop-proof) then good stuff, but if not may I suggest...? ...unbolting the passenger seat and bolting the driver's seat in its place - it'll have to face the rear seats for the brackets to line up - and see if it'll stay in place when you imitate an emergency stop (perhaps using both legs to replicate the strength you suddenly seem to possess in one leg when you're panicking!) And see if it holds? It's just a

[Sickboy]It should preshent no sherious difficultiesh... [/Sickboy]* The metal's full thickness here, it's just fatigued and not corroded. *

Just peel the carpet back, it's a doddle on these.

Welding is the best option, but it's not actually "structural": perhaps as a bodge a riveted and bonded (araldite for example) lump of aluminium might just do. It'd at least get it a test and allow you to drive it to a tame welder, just don't bond the bodge in if you take this route as it'll be difficult to properly clean up the steel.

It's a 32mm socket for the rear hub nut (on the phase1 and 1.5s), swap the nuts side-to-side so that you can re-stake the flange into the notch on the stub axle. I'd be throwing new brakeshoes at it if I was keeping it, the adhesive that keeps the friction material on the shoe gives up before they wear out, detaches from the shoe and locks the drum. Had it happen on both of the ones in my care...!

Did you recover the captive "floating" nut when you removed the seat? It's captive in that it doesn't turn but has about 5mm of "float" in each direction from the centre. Please don't use aluminium, use steel. It'll not fail as catastrophically as aluminium does, as this is a common failure point on the 106 - I've welded up both of mine, and I'd say that welding it would be the preferred choice.

Have you sourced a replacement seat runner yet...?

Paint the sills black - partly because of the angle of Metro sills, they never catch the light well hence end up looking grubby, it's either that or paint the bumpers body colour.

Save that pish for a blue forum, man, AS has never been that way. I'm a big believer in, "don't do something attention-seeking if you can't cope with the attention it creates".

Ahem, you're neither my parents nor my line manager, so don't tell me what to do with my opinions or my jokes...

Childish, perhaps, but more amusing than a middle-aged man painting a car bright pink and not understanding that it could be both detrimental to the appearance of the car and also opening it to some attempts at crude puerile humour. You reap what you sow...

Where do you put the D-cell batteries? Is the bonnet going to be painted a fetching shade of fuschia or light purple to go with it?

So, there has to be another way of reading the fault codes: this isn't an advanced system, thus it has to be relatively simple, but Seat technicians had to find a way, under warranty, of finding out what had fucked up that didn't require replacement/substitution of every sensor just to find the one in question... Fluffiness at idle and WOT? Have you checked what values/voltages the TPS is saying at these positions?