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coalnotdole

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coalnotdole last won the day on September 6 2016

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  1. The cheque for the sale of the Rebel Van cleared and I dropped it off with the new owner today. He's still not told his children that he's bought it! I hope I'm still in a position to buy funky old cars for fun when I'm in my 80's! Not sure how I feel about selling it really. I've had it a long time and done lots of amazing trips in it and its sad to think that thats over. On the other hand It wasnt getting used much, I'm trying to save for a deposit on a house so every scrap of cash is being put by for that. I also feel I'm spending too much time working on cars and not enough time driving them so maybe having one less for a while will be a good thing. Its fairly local still so possibly I'll still keep tabs on it, With the Rebel gone the Stright 6 Scimitar is looking a bit lonely! Maybe I should go and get ORJI out of hybernation just to keep it company!
  2. Yeah thats the one! Its been a bit random really, I was in the garage over the bank holiday and a older gent (probably in his mid 80's) put his head round the door and said he was interested in Reliants having owned a couple in the past and did I know of any for sale. I said i was thinking of selling the Rebel van and that he was welcome to take it for a drive if he wanted to. I then promptly forgot all about it until thursday when I got home from work and found him sat in the car outside the house! He had a look round it. Then I took him for a spin round the block, he had a bit of trouble getting into the passenger seat, he was a fair bit taller than me and appeared to have arthritc knees. We went on mix of slower and faster roads as I showed off all the Rebels knocks and rattles! After that I pulled into a local industrial estate and let him have a drive, He had a bit of trouble with the gear change having not driven a manual in a while. I can't imagine a Rebel Van compared favorably with his Skoda Yeti but there you go. He drove it back just about getting to 25mph in the busy school traffic! I was fully expecting that having driven it, he'd decide it wasn't for him; that it was too hard to drive or that it needs too much work to make it mint. But he was keen to know how much I wanted for it! I said I needed £2500 for it and that was the take it or leave it point really. Any less and I know I'd probably reget letting it go. I was still slightly suprised when we shook hands on that though! He went away promising to drop in a cheque for it this week, which he did today. I'm not totally sure what his intentions are with it, he's mentioned getting it resprayed and he's making room for it in the garage and has expressed a desire for me to drive it over to him at some point next week... Meanwhile I've been guilted into sorting some of the issues on it, Like the fact that the front right tyre deflates and the strange rattle emminating form within the drivers door!...
  3. Slightly Suprising news, I've sold the Rebel Van. It wasn't even advertised!
  4. Fair enough, Respraying as Scimitar is an expensive buisness, theres something to be said for starting with a less good example and adding value and getting things done to the standard you want... Though its not cheaper in the long run! I thought this car sounded interesting : https://scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=41115 I would have thought something like that could have been had for less than £2000.
  5. Scimitars have been low value for a while, prices took a dive in the mid 90's and have remained comparatively low until recenty. There are lots of cars out there that are worn out probably needing extensive work even before they were taken off the road. Time has created a lot of basket case cars that will need a signifcant investment in time and energy and money. Genuinely origonal low milage cars are extremly rare and hardly ever come up for sale. Few Scimitars have survived in factory origonal condition, they are supurbly capable GT cars and most were used as such in their prime. Not many survive that are truly low owner and low milage examples. Most were driven hard, used and abused. If you've definately found a 14,000 mile, origonal Scimitar GTE thats been dry stored for 40 (ish) years, with a tidy factroy interior and good origonal paint its undoubtedly worth the asking price. You'd want some provable history to back up the milage though. (MoT history for example) If its done 114000+ or more miles and the interior and paint are in need of extensive work then at £4000 as an off the road projet its a bit overpriced. The later style wolfrace wheels are ringning orignality alarm bells for me, while they look great. They were not factory fit on the 5a cars. So that implies its been at least slightly messed about with. On the plus side the paint appears to be an origonal shade (nevada Yellow) Happy to offer a morev in depth opinion if you happen to view it and get more details.
  6. After a couple of tries and a password reset I'm now logged back in. First off a nod to anyone who's taken time out of their busy lives to upgrade the board, I can see its clearly taken quite a bit of work to get to this point. Thanks for your efforts. I do apprecite what your doing, I understand we would not function without members taking time out if their lives to keep the show on the road. There are a few things I'm having trouble with; I'm sorry if this sounds ungrateful but I'd sooner say it than sweep it under the rug: The Autoshite logo is RED? - Surely this is a mistake and it should be [fresh] rust orange? As per all past incarnations? The cars in front of the logo seem to be a bit cramped, They obscure the forum name a touch too much and its offeding my sense of design. - Can they be offset to the right as per autoshite version 2.0? I love the Skizzer illustration, but find its current postioning in front of the forum name to be an issue, The 'your motoring is our concern' banner no longer feels like a causal threat. As others have mentioned the new forum font isnt that easy to read, I'd prefer a stronger pallate of biege contrasts in the colour pallate as others have mentioned, The Love heart is a bad graphic for something one likes. Hope no one takes offence, any critique is in attempt to make the board a better place Cheers - CND JOE
  7. Hi All, Bit of an update to this Shitely thread. Thanks to the brilliant efforts of SierraMikeHotel the Lewisham lights are with me! Cheers again for your help. Cavcraft has also been able to pickup the North Wales lights and they are currently with him in Chester. He's had them a few weeks now and I'm consious that I need to try and get a plan together to get them moved on a stage. I was wondering if there was anyone in a position to help shift them onwards? It would be ideal if they could end up in the West Midlands area some time in the next two weeks. Anywhere in Birmingahm / The black country would be Ideal but even getting them to somewhere like Stoke would be a bonus. Hopefully if they can be bought a bit closer Theres a possibility CND Dave can collect them in the next few weeks. Happy to chuck a little beer / petrol money in to cover any expenses. Thanks again to anyone who has helped or offered to help so far! Cheers Joe
  8. The gearbox will take around 200 bhp ish in the Scimitar. In a TVR apprication this gearbox might be expected to deal with 400+. So its very under stressed in my application. This picture shows the hole on the left made by the factory to do exactly the same job as the one we've made: Its only 3-4mm deep so I doubt its caused any significant weakness...!
  9. Making a TVR T5 work with a mechanical speedometer drive Last month the TVR T5 gearbox went off to Dave on the island. The plan was for him to have a look at machining the mainshaft to allow us to mount the speedo drive gear in the right place for the Cosworth tailshaft. As well as turning up a new speedo drive body which would work with that gear... A TVR T5 Gearbox, now leeching ATF on the IOW: Its Dave's busiest time of year as the boatyard prepares for the spring lift in, On top of that he's just moved into an new (huge) workshop and is still in the process of trying to get the workplace setup. He also had a pretty severe case of pneumonia last month too so its amazing he's found any time to do this work! Anyone else got workshop envy? First step was making a section of aluminium tube for the speedo drive gear to run on. The Tube has been split allow it to stretch to fit over the splines at the end of the mainshaft. Here it is with the gear trial fitted. In order to retain the gear and the sleeve, the mainshaft needed to have a 4mm hole machined in the correct place. As the mainshaft is hardened steel this turned out to be quite hard. The first attempt broke the carbide end mill barely making a mark on the mainshaft... Second attempt was made with A Dremel sharpening bit... Two broken bits later and a small hole had been achieved... Finally some new shorter carbide end mills were ordered and they finally managed to do the job: Testing the depth with the retaining clip. Heres the gear, collar and clip trial fitted. With the tailshaft on the gear is in the right place! With that sorted Dave then turned up a new body for the speedometer drive, Its based on the dimensions of the Cosworth one but is slightly shorter to accommodate the GM driven gear. The inside has been counterbored to suit take an oil seal that came with one of the American kits, This means that most of the component parts should be standard GM / T5. Which should help with future serviceability and should mean its easy to adjust the gear ratios in the future if needed. Trial fitted: To fit the speedometer drive cable a groove was needed for a circlip. The proper tooling to do this would cost around £200 so instead Dave cut this tool down with some careful angle grinding and an extra thin zippy disc. Should be ok to use on ally... The new drive unit with seal and circlip groove (which is a bit hard to see in this pic): Trial fitted with a speedo cable: Heres the complete unit, A 9/64th’s end mill was used to machine the slot. A steel tab sits against this to retain the unit in the gearbox. The last step was to fit a small stainless rod to the end of the driven gear, this will stop the gear dropping when reverse is engaged. Its all been tested together on the bench and it all looks like it should work. The cable moves when the mainshaft turns so thats a good sign! We'll see how it holds up once its on the car! Cheers Joe
  10. I'm hoping removing that stray core plug might cure the strange 'squelching' noise that could sometimes be heard when the engine was switched off... It sounded a bit like the noise you get when you walk with water in your wellies! It only did it for a second or too but it was a bit strange! This was the first time I'd tried doing this. It does't give quite as good a finish as filling and sanding the mould would have done, but on jobs where the finish hasn't got to be perfect, it can save a load of time. I've never seen one of those before! They do look like they may well have done the job. I'll try and sort the photos out for the next update in a bit. Cheers Joe
  11. It looks a bit clearer in there, but as its a cast iron block I want really expecting it to look like new.... I think between Dave and myself we're quite well covered skills wise. (He's more ninja than I am at most of the practical stuff though it has to be said.) I'd not done anything on an old car before I bought this one in 2010. Before then I think the most technical thing I'd done on a car was change a set of glow plugs! I'm still learning on every job I do and pushing the limits of what I can do from a single lockup garage. The scope of what can be done has increased as the faclites have improved. For example jobs I would once have got done locally by an engineer are now being done by Dave on the IOW. Having that availavble as an option has probably increased the feasbility of doing something like creating the TVR / Cosworth bastard gearbox. The sensible thing would have been to flog the TVR gearbox on and get the Cosworth one refubished! Speaking personally there are loads of areas where I really could do with improving my skillz. I need to practice my welding and I'd like to get more involved in the machining work too at some point. Cheers Joe
  12. Fun* things to do while your engine is being balanced... Part 2 Sorry these updates arn't more exciting, I promise the next post after this one will have some more gearbox excitement, including more machining and the creation of some custom made parts. Once the fibreglass had gone off on the cover, the top edge was cut straight and the rough edges dressed back with a flap disc. The top edge is straight I promise! By using the the top edge of the cover as a pattern I was able to cut out some plywood sections and make a mold for a new bulkhead section. Parcel tape was used again to seal the wooden surface and aid release. Here it is with the a lay up of fibreglass. After release: Curves all look pretty accurate. Trimmed down, Trial fitted Glassed in: Bit of sanding back and a coat of black primer and this is the end result... I've also had a go at cleaning out the waterways. I did try to find somewhere that could dip the block but drew a blank on finding anyone who could do it within 100 miles of me, so instead I decided to have a go at cleaning out the block using central heating cleaner. I reassembled the heads using the old head gaskets and a new inlet manifold gasket. As none of the sensitive components are attached at the moment It seemed a fairly safe option. I’d think carefully before doing this in a car with a water pump, radiator and heater matrix attached. I blanked off all the core plug holes with plastic caps and added some Sentinel Heating system cleaner, topped up with water and left it in for 24 hours... When I drained it the result was a fairly impressive amount of black crud, I then did a few more hot water flushes and got quite a bit more grot out. Before giving it a good rinse through with a hose pipe. The hosing off revealed an old core plug which had been stuck in the water jacket I was able to lift up with a magnet and pull back out. Sorry its been a bit dull, Cheers for reading. Joe
  13. Fun* things to do while your engine is being balanced... Part 1 While the waiting for the clutch to be made I did a bit of work sorting out how the speedometer drive was going to work on the new gearbox. I was going to need a way of mounting a gear onto the mainshaft and a driven gear to match it with a housing that fitted into the Cosworth tailhousing. Heres a comparison photo showing the mainshaft, Cosworth tailhousing at the top and TVR tailhousing at the bottom. Theres a yellow dot on the mainshaft that marks the location that the drive gear needs to be mounted. A T5 gearbox with a manually driven speedometer would normally have a raised surface on the mainshaft, on which a gear is mounted and retained by a small steel clip, the clip locates on a hole drilled into the mainshaft. You can get a range of T5 speedo conversion parts from the USA where they tend to use this type of gearbox in quite a few hot rods and custom builds. The big advantage here is that theres lots of choice of gear ratios to choose from. It took a bit of messing about with online calculators and comparing the GTE's standard speedo drive but in the end I went for a 7 tooth drive gear and a 19 tooth driven gear. The kit is to suit a GM type T5 on which shares some commonality with the TVR T5 gearbox, It comes with both gears, the retaining clips and a drive body thats not going to be used because its not the right diameter. Comparison GM speedo drive VS Cosworth speedo drive. New Speedo body / Cosworth aperture. I've also replaced the Cosworth tailshaft bearing with a new TVR one. fortunately the outer diameters were correct and required no modification. I've also got a new tailshaft seal to suit. Meanwhile a second item from the USA arrived; this is a kit which allows the speedo drive gear to be mounted in alternative locations on the mainshaft without needing to drill the hardened steel of the mainshaft. The kit has an aluminium collar which clamps in place and allows a modified gear to mount on to it. The kit from the USA test fitted to the mainshaft, With the tailshaft on however there was a bit of an issue, the large aluminium collar fouled the inside of the housing... Theres not that much thickness to the aluminium on the Cosworth tailshaft at that point. So rather than try modifying that Dave's going to have a go at milling the hardened steel mainshaft... and hopefully then try and turn up a custom drive housing to work with new gears! With the gearbox off to the IOW and the Engine components at the balancers, It seemed like an ideal moment to get the fibreglass out again... If you've been reading this thread closely you might remember that when I fitted this fuel injected engine. I had a problem with the very limited clearance at the back of the engine bay. This lack of clearance makes it hard to find room for air horns, a plenum or anything much other than a very basic air filter. While the engine was still in the car I'd convinced myself that I would just put up with the lack of clearance and work round it... Heres a recent-ish picture: and an old one showing how little clearance there is for a spungletrumpet: It looked like a really awkward area too modify, there are two curved surfaces that need to match up. If I got it wrong it would look a bit odd and would risk leaking engine bay gases into the fresh air system. not ideal. There was also the risk of uncovering some hidden fire damage and then needing to spend ages putting that right... but as the engine was already out this was probably the only really good time to alter the bulkhead... I struggled to visualise the stages of this job, Dave had pitched an idea involving cutting and shutting the curved section of the existing bulkhead but I wasn’t all that convinced I could do a good job on getting it all to line up and wasn't sure how to make a tightly fitting cover. In the end we settled on a compromise plan of modifying the cover and seeing how that turned out... Some jigsawing later... We worked out the maximum depth we could gain and setup a card to give the new shape. (after this photo was taken the surface of the GRP was ground back and prepped. The card also had a coating of tape to aid release.) Meanwhile Dave cut out the rest of the bulkhead before disappearing off to go and do something that didn't involve getting covered in fibreglass dust... Leaving me with an impressive hole in the back of the engine bay. To be continued...
  14. I think the theory goes that any engine will run better if its closely balanced, Ultimately how much you can gain depends on how good the tolerance is on the factory parts... Potentially even on a single cylinder 2 stroke, you'd still be able to end to end balance the con rod and flywheel and any front pulley attached to the crank.
  15. I bought into the Makita LXT cordless range in 2015 and its been very good. The platform has expanded quite a bit and you can now get a huge range of tools all of which run off the same, Lithium ion battery. They do a dual charger so with 3 or 4 batteries you should have enough power to keep you going through most jobs. I use the cordless drill and angle grinder all the time and have some woodworking tools in the range which I use less often. I will buy a cordless power file, a multitool and probably a right angle drill at some point too. Once you have something cordless its amazing how quickly you get bored with the trailing cables! Once you get the batteries and charger. Its easy to buy tools in on their own as singles and expand the range as you need it. Ebay seems quite good for this. Joe
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