Jump to content


Full Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


coalnotdole last won the day on August 2 2020

coalnotdole had the most liked content!

Contact Methods

  • Website URL


  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

coalnotdole's Achievements

Rank: Citroen Ami

Rank: Citroen Ami (6/12)



  1. Yes its original factory fitment! I think I was mistaken when I described it as 12v and its actually 240v AC and only runs while the cars plugged in charging so in theory you come out in the morning to a nice warm car. I'm not sure if Clairol designed the "Travel Turbo" with a 9 hour continuous duty cycle in mind though! The earlier orange car has a smiths blower unit with a 600w 48v DC heating element - the manual describes it as an optional extra and makes a point of stating that running the heater whilst driving will dramatically reduce driving range! It suggests you leave the ignition switch in the "accessory" position with the heater turned on whilst charging off the mains supply. Windscreen de-misting is achieved using a modern type laminated heated screen which I think was fairly cutting edge at the time - again the manual points out not to use it unnecessarily though! Thats the smiths blower/heater in the orange car. (computer fan at top right is unrelated and appears to have been part of a modification to battery compartment venting which Lucas must have been experimenting with during their ownership) Cheers, Dave
  2. The wheels are Dunlop LP918 according to the (incomplete) parts list I have. I bought it in the hope that the chassis and body shell might be in better condition than the orange one but they're much of a muchness really - white one is slightly better underneath but not good enough that I would be happy without stripping it down. It's got both bumpers which I'm missing from the orange one so it might donate those. Obviously it also has a full set of original style control and charging gear but as its a later car it would require some modification to fit it to the earlier orange one (the charger transformers are larger and require a bigger compartment and stuff like that) I've already doubled what I spent on buying the white car by purchasing a replacement bonnet, seats, and various interior/dash panels for it - Hopefully that should at least make it a more complete and ready candidate for restoration should I decide to sell it on. Or the friend who is currently storing it (who also negotiated the purchase of the orange one on my behalf) is still interested in converting one to a modern electronic drivetrain so maybe it will donate its electrical gear and bumpers to my orange one then be rebuilt into a more modern version of an Enfield 8000... For the moment the plan is to get the orange one structurally restored and rig it up running on the MOS90 controller it came with so I can make a decision on weather I want to revert it back to solenoid control or stick with the more modern arrangement. That will probably influence what happens with the white one. Cheers, Dave
  3. This post will be a bit out of sync with the rest of the thread but If I don't post it now it will be even more out of time whenever I end up posting it. Back in October Austat tagged me in the eBay Tat thread - This brought my attention to a listing which due to not mentioning the word "Car" or "8000" anywhere in the listing had somehow evaded all of my Enfield related saved searches on eBay! The car in question was a couple of years later than my orange one, Appeared to have been off the road since 1990, Had a cracked windscreen, no interior, was missing its aluminium bonnet and had already been raped for its mini cooper spec steel wheels which the seller had listed and sold separately. Naturally I had to throw a bid at it on the off chance it would turn out to have a mint chassis saving me much time and work on the rather crispy orange one. Listing image showing mismatched trailer wheels fitted and its recently removed original Mini Cooper spec rims in the background Collecting it from the bubble car museum in norfolk was an interesting experience... I've seen photos of this same badging on a couple of other enfields so assume it must be an ex electricity board car that was still in use into the 80s Seatbelt anchorage approval plate which the earlier cars don't have. The factory seems to have acquired a bead roller in the intervening two years between the orange car being built and this one - Literally every flat panel on this car has about 5 beads rolled into it! This car retains its solenoid based speed control system, albeit a later revised 1980s version that was retrofitted after the original systems had issues with contactor wear. Dashboard wiring is a lot more original than that on the orange car And being a later car, instead of the smiths electric fan heater for windscreen and footwell heating fitted to earlier builds this one has a 12v hairdryer mounted poking through a hole in the dashboard! Transformer and rectifier boards for onboard battery charger Timer control unit for battery charger Safely tucked away at the back of a friends industrial unit for the timebeing.... As a bonus here's a photo showing the stash of tax discs I found while working on the orange one covering 1987 until 2015: As usual cheers for reading and/or commenting Dave
  4. Here's a copy of the battery connection/sequencing diagram from the owners manual: The original onboard charger which I believe is missing from your car would have charged the main bank at 48v (as the default solenoid position connects all the batterys) and a secondary 12v output to charge the lighting and control system battery. Dave
  5. After the resounding failure of my first attempt at enfield body support sections I decided to try and remove as many of the possible causes as possible - I think the fact I could only fold the channel section to 45 degrees in order to be able to get it through the swager meant it wasn't as rigid as it would be if it was folded to 90 degrees to begin with which then meant as I swaged the curved flange onto the edges it tended to introduce a bow into the whole channel section. Also I only had a 4" long v block tool for the flypress so taking multiple bites at sharpening up the fold lines probably introduced more curve where it wasn't wanted. Step one was to machine up a decent length V former. fitted to the flypress with a matching lower former. I then dogged down the original section on a flat surface so i would be able to measure it as accurately as possible. Hopefully this shows the curvature which needs to be replicated. I made up two accurate templates of the curves to aid marking out the new sections. And I made another new lower roller for the swager that's just small enough to fit inside the channel section meaning it can be folded to 90 degrees before its put through the swager. I also thinned down the top roller slightly to allow a tighter fold angle. Took my time with this one and it came out pretty well. Curved where it should be! And straight where it should be! End profile - the distortion on the folds is only at the ends where the swager starts and stops, it gets trimmed off before fitting to the car. Folded up some small corner gussets. Replacement alongside the original. And test-fitted on the car. Forward end. Rear end. It'll want a bit of fine tuning/adjustment but overall I'm pretty happy with the fit and it sort of proves the theory which is good as i think there will be quite a few sections which will need replacing! Cheers for reading and commenting! Dave
  6. As the enfield seemed to do quite a poor job of keeping the rain out even before I removed the rear glass in order to take the wing off it seemed like getting it somewhere reasonably dry to live while it awaits its turn in the workshop would be sensible. One metal shed off facebay later.... Its somewhat a snug fit! There was just about enough space for me to drill out the spot welds and remove the rotted channel section from under the side window This is would be my first attempt at making curved flanges, I've bought a vintage edwards jenny roller off eBay to try and form the curved section However my first test piece wasn't much of a success! Rollers as supplied with the swager/jenny roller - the stepped lower roller only seems to work if flanging really thin metal of less than half a mm. I made up a new lower roller without the step out of a bit of delrin pressed onto a steel shaft. Channel section folded up and marked out with measurements from the original section to try and replicate the curve - as the bottom roller of the swager is too big to fit inside the channel i had to only fold the sides to 45 degrees, then swage the flanges before folding the sides to 90 degrees on the flypress. Rolling the swage. And the end result after folding the sides to 90 degrees on the flypress - the whole thing is as wonky as a donkeys hind leg As you can just about see bothe faces of the channel have ended up curved whereas the face on the right should be straight and just the flanged edges curved. I chalked this one up as a fail and vowed to try again with a different approach!
  7. Well there's been some small progress on the Enfield, Rear trailing arm and panhard rod removed to allow sourcing of replacement bushes Shotblasted Had a bit of a struggle sourcing bushes for the panhard rod as they're no longer available from metalastik/trelleborg, eventually managed to find they're also used on a lotus europa and one of the lotus specialists has had them remanufactured but only lists them using the lotus part number. Trailing arm bushes were easier to source although seemingly only available with crimped ends now Conical lotus bushes fitted into the newly primed panhard rod I've bought new bolts and hardware so the plan will be to refit the trailing arm and panhard rod I've already cleaned up, then remove the other trailing arms one or two at a time and shot blast and rebush them. I can't remove them all at once as disconnecting the prop shaft and getting the axle out is a job that's going to have to wait until i have space to get the car in the workshop and can drop the motor out of the chassis. Cheers for reading! Dave
  8. Hi Will, Interesting to see some photos of work on the car - I was offered it and the spares package when it came up for sale and although it seemed very good value for the money I felt it would have a negative impact on my chances of actually finishing this one or my other various projects!. The BEI logo is interesting - do you know anything about its history? I'll try and sort out an update to this thread at some point soon as theres been some small bits of progress with the enfield. Dave
  9. I recently bought one of the vehicles they had listed (no prizes for guessing which!) I don't believe the museum is closing but think the couple who run it are heading their separate ways so the chaps selling off un restored items and duplicates.
  10. Well spotted, Have had a bid and will see how it goes! Cheers, Dave
  11. Seconded, Theres definitely a lot of shared design cues with the regal! I'm fairly certain those are Regal/Rebel door mouldings and frames - Would be interesting to see a photo showing the interior of the doors to compare. Dave
  12. Funnily enough i've already been and viewed / rejected that on account of lacking a fourth wheel!
  13. The panels will need to be recrimped over the door and window apertures and then mig welded across the A and C Posts where I cut them to remove. It appears that non of the panels are intended to be removable - even the front and rear valances which are bolted to the wings with lag screws and spire clips are then welded on the return lips behind the panels. Its my intention to strip all the panels off up to window height hopefully allowing decent enough access to remove the steel inner body panels and get to the chassis areas that need repairing, there's also potential for losing quite a bit of weight by doing away with some of the double skinned sections around the sills and wheel arches. The chassis is designed as a stand alone space frame, then they seem to have welded 1mm steel floorpans and wheel arches to it, then added a folded steel skeleton to support the alloy body shell, then panelled in between the chassis sections inside using .8mm steel. Then the rear seats and interior trim is all mounted to steel or alloy panels which are screwed on top of the interior steelwork so you in effect have three layers of tinwork in places....
  • Create New...