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richardthestag

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richardthestag last won the day on July 30 2017

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About richardthestag

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    Rank: Renault 16

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    Buckinghamshite and Devonshite

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  1. loads of sweary Land Rover content on the Youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuPaTTqVo_Tw0_4ypXxY0lQ have fun, stay home, stay safe
  2. last for tonight, so please don't bother staying up for more reinstalled repaired bulkhead back onto the chassis. Is not coming back off again cleaned up some of the bulkhead panels, might have wafted them with rattle can brake pedal and box looks ok but brake pedal servo looks nasty because of leaking brake fluid.... painted internals of bulkhead looking good looking fine it will do not sure how it will look with dash and doors back in place clutch master is lockhead OE and clean inside so new seals is order of the day If you like to listen to me shouting at old land rovers visit my Youtube channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuPaTT ... subscriber thanks for reading this far pissed off with lockdown but staying in "dad's" home, clean and safe
  3. part 4# lockdown special etc etc oe flywheel cleaned up real pretty! New pilot bush was installed engine dropped back in and clutch aligned then secured and bolted up with a new release bearing no engine oil in stock so tag added to ensure this beauty is not started up again with a dry sump Bulkhead was topcoated with stock Olive Green... way too light for the rest of the car. what is a chap to do. I had the paint on the shelf, it is lockdown, and Ilike the patina on the original panels....... not too shiny either front shock aborbers were removed and seemed ok and appear to be OE, holy shit! These are staying on clutch slave however was fucked #5 coming very soon
  4. #3/5 out of brown beer so hitting the Hophouse 13 which is very nice indeed bought a cheapo Lucarse 35 DLM8 distributor on ebay. Mechanical advance seized but good enough of course! Haunted car started up first click then diagnosing why OE distributor is stopping engine from starting.. ungrateful spiteful bastard thing lockdown shenanigans, fucking huge bonfire is the only way to go rear oil seal needs sump and rear main bearing removal. so lets just get on with it. 3 main bearings, 2.25litres, long throw, and very very very clean inside and the bearings and journal faces are like brand new I could have a shave in that reflection chassis rails are strong and solid but could do with a light tidy up the sump had some gung in it.... Part 4 is on it's way
  5. Lock, fucking down ( I am coping) #2/5 Aegean Blue still not behaving and everytime the engine flood I need to pull all plugs and protect the catalytic converters bored with nor start fuck shit I pulled the engine out of the 109 project bastard rear engine seal failure as evidenced from the back face of the flywheel starter is in good shape and responded beautifully to a clean and graphite lube irritated by the lack of maintenance or Aegean blue I looked at the drive belts which were all fucked then transferred my anger to the tight steering relay on the 109. These cunts are a CUNT to shift when rusted in place so I had been avoiding that.... I was incredulous with belief when I lifted it out of the front chassis rail with barely any effort once upside down the shit drained out and I was able to rotate 360degrees it loosened up massively, refilled with engine oil and it is like new! zero cost. love it now back to the Aegean Blue car, I hooked up my recently relocated (thanks wifeykins) fuel pressure gauge and found all to be well #3 coming soon - there are 5 parts in total so rest your sphincters
  6. lock down update #1/5 I had some odd symptoms which are long gone, had to self isolate and then all non essential travel was blocked. Me in Devon and Mrs and lads in Bucks Fuck it, I mean that slightly tongue in cheek as I can work and the Mrs cannot moan but not great etc Anyway you don't want to know about that shit so here is the last load of updates! fuel pump filter was bought from these chaps, https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/in-ta ... 1972-p.asp worked perfectly while the tank was out I went for the full slosh treatment. also found the leak. on this flange and under about 25kg of bathroom fucking sealant waiting on bits and fed up to be honest with non startingf Aegean Blue I started to strip down the 109 front axle to replace the swivel balls and seals. Check out the fucking bathroom sealer on the bolts! like this shit has known thread lock properties I was fully expecting it but always nice to see when the brake back plate and shoes can be removed from the hub intact. top swivel pin removed and the hub carrier drops out. This was topped up with onestop lube which is not normally an issue if you choose not to wade but there was water in here too. pushing the new swivel stuff into the new swivel bowl is always satisfying new swivel ball fitted and swivel pins need shimming out for preload. for some reason folks ignore this crap but it is easier to do than falling down the stairs this is the drivers side hiub, full of alien debris! Aegean Blue still not starting and passing every fucking test. disti out again so I can observe testing from inside the engine bay. 97% of this shit was on my clock and not the customers because? well just fucking because here are LUCAS examples of points verses electronic ignition distributor. Same casing but different rotors, and they are important LOCKDOWN #2 to follow
  7. Part 3 Reintsalled all LPG and it wouldn't start, removed all LPG and it wouldnt start! haunted car. Cancelled customer collection Fuel tank is a slave unit that fits besides drivers chassis rail. not the safest thing out there and it leaks too. Initial tests concluded that the pressure regulator on the fuel injector rail was doing nothing so I ordered one. In the meantime I got back onto Sandy the Landy bulkhead, filled, sanded and primed the outside. This is now ready for a top coat this week This thing is going to look a lot better by the end of next week New regulator arrived in a box of blue joy and wonderment. Fitted and the car fired right up. purring away. Restarted a few times and concluded that the issue was fixed. Then it wouldn't fucking start again! Dropped the tank to check on connections. Tried to run the tank dry using the pump and it was sucking air so assumed it was. 11 litres later and it was empty, Pondlife are operating nearby so I took precaution of further securing dad's IIa with this little bastard. More of a visual deterrent than a determined thief but still tested pump on the bench using water and it had a serious prostrate problem. Found the bowl full of rust lumps and the filter on the bottom of the pump solid with rust. Here it is after cleaning and removing the filter ended up with a fully functional pump that works well under pressure. Have ordered a new pump filter and some Slosh to seal both the bare steel faces inside the tank and the hole. These pumps were never fitted to steel tanks to my knowledge More next week, filter and tank seal arrive tomorrow, I am headed back to Devon this afternoon and may end up in lock down with Fatha Thestag who is over 70 gaaaah Still it isn't like I have a field of projects to deal with is it
  8. Part 2 Brand new Old Stock Land Rover branded (Made in GB) track rod end, with no grease on one side.... ffs. This is the main reason I always remove the dust cap and check em before install Sorting out the headlight and rear wash wipe found the back of the washer bottle coated in crap. The closing edge on the nearside inner wing to bulkhead is missing. Advised owner and he will sort it One more day to MoT and customer is collecting in 3 days New set of exhausts arrived from FamousFour and neither old lamdba fits either boss! Checked everything again and established that old exhaust system cannot be Land Rover, neither Lambda is correct thread for land rover and the old Lambda boss is nearly 1mm smaller. Alas a complete fluke that both lambdas fit onto one boss on the first new system. Fucking hate egg on my face, grovelling apology to FamousFour and an order to Devon4x4 who can get me a pair of new Lambdas for later that day where I papped this beauty with checkaplate floors and idiotic wheels and lift. That and the high gloss paint, pretty sure all series should be satin finished were all that were wrong with it Sensible rules and regs on new cats which are tinsy compared to old, fitted them and lolloped down to Mr MoT happy that the car is behaving. MoT was passed and then the bastard would not restart. It did eventually and I drove it 7 miles back to base where it died again Diagnosis fully underway, mush of which was me rechecking stuff I had already done. LPG emulators sit between the injectors and the 14CUX ECU. These were removed and it started, oh oh oh This chap is the LPG brain, how many grinder sparks can you see? This is one of the 4 cylinder LPG emulators, something I concluded is wrong with the LPG setup and I couldn't get hold of my friendly LPG supplier because Saturday afternoon theres more
  9. Right the last couple of weeks have been a bit of an arse really! Aegean Blue has been faffing me off big time to get the bottom of the "why wont you start? you bastard!" more of that later First up, getting MoT fail points fixed, also fitting a new front exhaust and cat system and sorting the fiendishly heavy throttle peddle After lubing the pedal pivot and the cable, I had to remove the plenum to lube the throttle body Found that the Red signal wire from the Throttle Position sensor was broken! This will not help urgency of acceleration as the ECU which is used by both LPG and Petrol for some reason relies on it and AFM to dictate fuel load Nifty zero cost fix was to file back the plastic moulding until I uncovered the three posts inside the unit. Then simply resoldered the wires. Result was now more urgent acceleration and dead light throttle but still have bunged up Cats Before I got onto that I had to replace one dead steering balljoint and one cap, which ended up also needing a ball joint because it was so close to being fucked it didn't make sense not to. Took the opportunity to relub all the threaded sections which have a good habit of seizing up solid. then off came the front exhaust section. Easy enough to do once the front anti rollbar is dropped out of the way. However on this car almost every fixing was bodged in one way or another. 30 minute job takes near 2 hours Here for instance is drivers side manifold which had bolts and a nut and bolt holding it together. Naturally the stud you see here is the remains of a broken bolt, It did shift after getting it to glow and then attacking it with a stud extractor and breaker bar! The rear steering drag link was also a pain, this is the nearside balljoint that needed a new dustcap. alas the joint was so loose that I couldn't remove the nylock, so ended up cutting it off! New mild steel front section of exhaust arrived from FamousFour, alas the Lambdas from the old exhaust do NOT fit this boss, they both fit the other boss on this system. FamousFour ordered another set and had them shipped to me, but a 2 day delay. This joint is always seized, it is one of two parts on the main steering drag link and is reverse threaded. I broke one of my grips by abusing it with a 4ft scaffold tube. Pair of stilsons did get it moving but it was mighty tight. Still at least the tracking can be set now. more to come
  10. weather in Devon, much like the rest of the country has been shit Here is L95 waiting for the next fuck off great storm welding in all the little catches and other sods Trial fitted upper and lower dash sections again. This time mainly to check that areas that will be seen once everything is bolted up will be tidy enough prepped and ready for primer Nice 2k filler primer and on the inside decent seam seal all over the place. next steps will be body filler and a top coat Later this week. I will try to be more up to date with these posts
  11. next lined everything up and pop riveted into place cleaned up the screen hinge supports and bonnet mounts which I had to salvage from the old bulkhead checking screen fit before welding everything in place minor calamity with the trusty dirt cheap welding cart. soon fixed with a hammer screen mounts welded in, rechecked again and then tacked the outer top sections into place. refitted bonnet to align the bonnet hinges before welding them. then removed the bulkhead again to tidy welds and finish all the little odds and sods more to come
  12. Onto Sandy now which occupied a couple of days last week. 6 ball joints on the steering 4 are fucked. all four came off in my hands with just a little effort Bottom of the passenger door has seen better days but the fix may well be left for the next owner Drivers door lock plate has split. I will dob a little weld in here just to prevent it flexing Dash lower section being stripped down for repairs bulkhead fitted to the car and doors rehung so I can check alignment. I haven't yet fixed the top rail around the vent panels. Inner and outer panels are terminal on this example. top hinge screw is too long and clashes against the inner frame. Need to shorten each of the top bolts by 4mm ffs to get the bulkhead aligned better than it was when I first got it, I had to pull the chassis bracket forwards worked a treat. Then I cut off the dead inner section more to come
  13. Next up for Aegean Blue, that damned ABS light, luckily you can easily diagnose the root cause using blink codes Turned out in this case to be front drivers side sensor. Removed it, cleaned it and reset it and all works fine now getting Aegean Blue ready for MoT, replaced a few bulbs and fixed the screen washers It failed but only on a steering ball joint and one rubber cap. However the driving experience was somewhat marred by the fiendishly heavy throttle pedal and the lack of any performance over 3k rpm. The throttle pedal should be a straightforward fix, pedal, cable or throttle housing. Or as it turns out all three. The lack of performance will most likely be down to bunged up catalytic converters.
  14. bit of a catch up, all this is already on DW for those that have a foot in each camp. Also my yootoob channel has loads of content on https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuPaTTqVo_Tw0_4ypXxY0lQ Have a gander Updatez 1994 Aegean Blue project for a customer Found relay for supply to heater motor was removed, had another in the stash to tested it before install Alas all it did was set up an arc on the wire connecting it to supply removed the fan speed switch and connector for feed and terminal were heat distressed heater needs to come out, getting good at these the customer supplied a doner heater unit from a Disco1 but the motor in that was shagged out too. Opted to make one decent unit out of the two The motor that came out of the RR heater unit had overloaded big time. insulation around the field windings had been on fire and the carbon brushes were melted into their holders. When this thing let go it must have filled the car with some pretty acrid smoke. Next up was to sort the passenger side exhaust manifold. Those who have seen the vids on youtube will know it was blowing badly. None of the bolts were tight, the locking tabs were missing and one bolt had gone altogether. And theres more
  15. loads of videos on my youtube channel. please subscribe and tell your friends too
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