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Angrydicky

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Angrydicky last won the day on August 29

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    Lincolnshite
  • Interests
    Old, unloved cars

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    United Kingdom

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  1. I very much doubt you will shift it with anything other than either heat or regular soaking with penetrating oil, if you’re lucky. I had exactly the same situation when doing the brakes on my Somerset recently, heating the nut then very careful use of molegrips on the pipe and a spanner on the nut and I quickly got it moving again. Although the pipe was, predictably, a bit pitted once I’d moved the nut and cleaned it up. I didn’t replace the pipe because, like yours it would have been a ballache to replace it. In hindsight it wouldn’t have been a bad thing to do to bite the bullet and replace it. I never fully appreciated how much heat helps free seized stuff off but now I use my very cheap blowlamp regularly and it does a good job, not as good as oxyacetylene but good enough for home use.
  2. Probably a bit late, but heat is your friend. Heat the nut up with a blow lamp and you should be able to get it moving. Make sure you slide the nut higher up the pipe to clean up the pipe then put a smear of grease on it to prevent it seizing again.
  3. That is a good point. First we knew the reservoir had run out of fluid on my dads Hillman Minx was when the pedal went to the floor, fortunately when he was just reversing it out of the garage. Tiny reservoir on those too. I had a resleeved body ready to go (the larger can type from the disc braked cars, just like yours) so built that up with a new kit and fitted it. It is reassuring to have a better capacity in there.
  4. I’d put a new sill on if it was mine, if the step is good you can use a skin sill. The trouble is that unless you’re very skilled with filler a repair in the back of the sill will always be visible if you look down the flank of the car. Because it’s a long flat panel. The master cylinders on the car look like the original ones to me, these are quite rare and sought after by a lot of owners who want their cars to look original under the bonnet. The modern ones you can buy with the plastic reservoirs look crap IMO. You can get the originals resleeved and rebuilt if you so wish. About £100 each iirc.
  5. Wow, we are close to each other, no more than two villages away. Do you attend the Stickney autojumble? I went to the last one, was quite a good turnout I thought.
  6. I didn’t realise you were that close! I’m Revesby-sort of way. I’ll let you know if I need a hand! Cheers.
  7. Read “always overlooked” I often get asked which classic cars I have and you can sense the disappointment/person losing interest the moment I say that I’m restoring an Austin A70 Hampshire. They’re ridiculously unloved! In fact, come to think of it, the only car of mine that tends to elicit any enthusiasm from your average MG/Stag/Jag owning classic car owner is my A35 and that’s only because of the historic racing series (which I have no interest in). That’s a good tip about the steering box. I thought it would be a cork seal in there so was quite surprised to see the old seal was quite similar to a modern rotary shaft seal. The new one was a bit tight to fit as the corner of the casing has had a knock at some point, but I managed to drift it in ok using a drop of oil to help it slide. Seems oil tight so far. I bought the seal from AH Spares along with a new brass olive which seals the bottom of the steering box where the wires for the trafficator switch go. I’ve currently got it bunged up with a rubber grommet for testing purposes.
  8. Yeah but oiling the paint is the last thing you want to do if you’re planning to paint it at some point, it gets everywhere and is difficult to remove every trace, and it only takes a bit to ruin the new paint!
  9. Are you calling me daft? Well yes actually I am. Due to space constraints I want to get the body fitted as soon as possible and connect everything back up again. So it’s not that far off being roadworthy. I’ve done a lot of this work the wrong way around so mechanically it’s all ready to go, all the brakes and cooling system are done etc, balljoints and suspension checked, greased and replaced where necessary, just need to get the rear shocks rebuilt and buy a replacement antiroll bar as this one is badly bent/twisted. Must have done some serious rolling at some point! Still in two minds over the paint, on one hand I just want to get it back on the road and enjoy it without months of rubbing down, but there is a lot of surface rust coming through. I’ve just fitted a new seal to the replacement steering box so that’s all ready to fit once the body is on.
  10. Also put a new pair of trackrod ends on. They are new, made in England by a company called Amsteer and have grease nipples like the OEM ones. None of the other aftermarket ones do.
  11. Two days until I go to Holland now. Exciting but quite nervous. Both the steering wheel and gearknob had fallen apart with the UV light as they always do. I decided to send them off for a very expensive refurb at a place in Kent (Myrtle Ltd) that was recommended to me by a friend. I’ve gone for a slight custom job here, they have refurbed the steering wheel in cream to match the gear knob and switches, and I’ve painted the centre and the gear lever metallic gold to match the instruments. To be fair they did a lovely job and quick too (inside a week) and I’m over the moon with the results! Originally all this was a dull dark brown which didn’t do the car any favours IMO (the Atlantic, which has the same dash, has a cream steering wheel). The trafficator switch needs a bit more work, under the brown paint it’s brown Bakelite which I’m going to try cutting and polishing. But you get the idea.
  12. I don’t work there anymore. But yes they can rebuild it.
  13. I should probably clarify, the five Avon tourists which came with the car are new, but are of indeterminate age. They look ok and there’s no cracks but they do feel quite hard. Im going to give them a go, with some new inner tubes, if they’re particularly lethal I’ll look for some others.
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