Wack Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 I went to st Michael's mount in Cornwall they had a defender they used to transport stuff across the causeway , when it comes up for sale it'll read , one owner low mileage, totally fucked chassis down It was only a couple of years old , the chassis looked 20 years old Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 More great work, this is going to be a nice one The only way to get the onestop out of the front hubs is by dismantling and cleaning. which is a faff if you regularly wade. Damage caused to front hubs by running water contaminated gloop is likely to extend to the CV joints, BUT if used regularly should last etc etc etc Good balls (snigger) and modern hub seals to prevent leakage of standard fit oil I fit Oneshot to all our Solihull shite. Just can't get the EP90 to stay in the swivel hubs; even a new ball and seal only seems to keep dry for 12 months or so.The oneshot grease does actually drain when you get it hot- do it straight after a run and plenty comes out!I don't do wading though, not in any of them. In fact I'd rather drive 60 miles to avoid going swimming! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 1958 LAND ROVER SERIES 2 - 2 & A QUARTER PETROL BARN FIND 1964 MILES! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1958-LAND-ROVER-SERIES-2-2-A-QUARTER-PETROL-BARN-FIND-1964-MILES/122793845536?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908131621%26meid%3Dec568649bfa146e985afda1af1357d70%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D14%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D182848319696&_trksid=p2481888.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%253A4ebcd7e6-c7e0-11e7-b7d4-74dbd1804d46%257Cparentrq%253Ab1b89b5515f0ad78daae47c2ffff77c3%257Ciid%253A1 1964 miles you say? An incredible 1964 miles on nthe clock - can only assume this is correct,as the speedo hasobviously never been changed,it has the same patina as the other instruments. yeah but the numbers are all different colours, like some are sun faded way more than others. Got any history to back up the mileage claim? Although manufactured in 1958 - it was,for some reason,first registered in1978,though on the V5 its taxation class is Historic Vehicle - so Tax and MOT exempt. Also has period correct Registration number. I can only assume it was used on a farm for the previous 20 years - hence the low mileage. Yeah Farmers use Traaaaaacturz oh and your idea of "Surprisingly rust free" does not match with mine Verdict =a. remove speedo and find "oh no! not again :)" written on the backb. research history and find it was decommed from armed forced (air Force by the look of it, patches of blue) in 1978c. thank God it is miles away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colnerov Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Hi, It's got a lot of series 3 bits round it, could almost say it's a bitsa, with a number plate nailed on it. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 13, 2017 Author Share Posted November 13, 2017 oops meant to stick that on the ebay fred Sa TURD ay's shenanigans Youngling Thestags Rugby match at Whitgift was called off due to wet pitch at Whitgift so I boiler suited up and retired to the man cave for the afternoon. using 1-2-1 epoxy paint from Rustbuster after mixing thoroughly in the tin, mix one part a to one part b - in this case 180ml of each part b is very gloopy however when the two parts are mixed together it combines quickly and easily. leave it 10 mins I then added 10% of the special supplied thinner. i probably didnt need to because it went on very thin indeed. stuck like shit to bare steel but didnt like the red paint that I wasnt able to remove. this is on the third coat and 1h after the first. the paint self levels nicely after an hour and a half the paint had thickened slightly so one coat was doing the job axle casing came up beautiful. pockmarks from previous rust were smoothed as the paint levelled. diff case needs another coat because I ran out of mix took 24h to cure to touch dry, 36h in and there are still bit that are tacky to touch. the guidance is full cure takes 2 weeks at 23 degrees celcius. I expect to be able to start reassembly after a couple of days. should be hammer proof after 2 weeks I guess Banger Kenny, mat_the_cat, Tickman and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 very pleasant 6 hours spent in the man cave this weekend, cleaning threads, and tinkering Figuring that the bolts would be same back and front for various bits I emptied all the bags and catalogued the as removed bolts the long thin buggers hold the Boge Hydramat to the rear crossmember, new nylocks needed but otherwise reusable cleaning threads throughout, there are 10 on each hub, 20 on each carrier and a further 26 on the axle casing. over 100 threads to clean + the bolts I used a small fine sanding dremel to clean out the tapered hole that the steering balljoints go into On Sunday I gunked the worst off the bolts and lobbed the lot into the tumbling vibrator Then got on with cleaning threads on the axle casing cleaning up the swivel pins and bearings and declared fit for reuse after about 2hours in the tumbler the bolts came out like this A quick wobble around through the tumbler media found me a big old bunch of rusty grains settled in a cleaned the threads up and inspected the bolts for damage. 90% needed no cleaning, the die spun on and straight back off again. just 3 bolts have been rejected as the flats are rounded ready for bagging and axle reassembly this weekend TagoraSX, Coprolalia, Asimo and 14 others 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heidel_Kakao Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Wow that is way more methodical than I could ever bother to be. Top effort! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 in other news the chassis has finally been blasted. minor rust damage is all localised around the rear drivers side outrigger and spring mount photos courtesy of fatha thestag The chassis is upside down here, was blasted last friday and already has surface rust developing! This bit is on the main chassis rail inside the rear drivers side mount outrigger. simple repair after I cut out the shat the is the same side bump stop plate. just going to cut this off, repair the chassis under neath and then weld a new plate on again these patches are on the inside of the rail and very close to the bump stop ^^ Going up Devon later this week and will visit and weld up on Friday, they are going to reblast, epoxy and powder coat on sunday / monday. Plan is for chassis to come home again monday. Best get cracking getting those axles back together again! Coprolalia, brickwall, TagoraSX and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 as the weather has got more wintery the recently installed heater unit on my daily has chosen to partially wedge the fresh air vent open. I can access it with the centre console removed but cannot be arsed to right now. so, two vents and clock removed foam rubber wedged into the hole test drive confirms toasty warm! Job Bodged CreepingJesus, Sigmund Fraud, Banger Kenny and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 Took the day off work today to weld up the chassis prior to it being zinc painted and powder coated. First time I have seen the chassis since it had been grit blasted, I was a bit nervous from the piccies that Fatha thestag had emailed me. Ok so there are a few patches around the back end of the chassis and need for a couple more. this is the drivers side chassis rail, rear sill outrigger and rear axle spring pan. I went over the patches with a sharpish ice hammer, anything soft was marked out to be cutout and replaced. Also wanted to tidy up some of the existing welds. This is the drivers side rear axle spring mount, and the only place where rust had broken through a patch. this is all going to get cut out this is the rear spring mount on the passenger side, patched but solid and passed an extensive test with the hammer these chaps were on the floor behind where I was working, pair of rust free 2 door shells and rear light housings. they almost ended up in my car Another view of the patches around the drivers side rear axle And getting busy with the cutting disc. I was pleased to find that there wasnt rusty metal behind the patches, that most of it had been cut out, patched and then heavily waxed inside. all that wax is going to make a right mess in the oven when it gets preheated. The two rusty angles are very heavy duty and curved to the shape of the chassis. I think they are part of the original build. They are solid so I cleaned them back and used as a basis for welding repairs This is after cutting out the rust by the drivers side rear outrigger Not original but I welded in a 2mm thick plate over the top of the angle brackets. Pleased with progress so far All the above reinforcement was to allow the bought bump stop mount to be welded into place. this came from YRM I am in love with this welding setup. took a bit of fiddling to dial it in right but is so easy to use Seem to have forgotton to take a load of pics, so this is at the end of the job. The scrap pile after working my way through my entire stock of zirconium flap discs Rebecca gave me this. fucking awesome. trade only, going to get more! flapped back and ready for the next stage Chuffed Tomorrow, I need to weld and rebuild the rear axle, oh and fix the Jaaaag and the exhaust on the Series IIa and the indicators on fatha thestags 72 Range Rover Hoping to pick up the completed chassis on Monday, watch this space brickwall, billyboy406v6, Coprolalia and 21 others 24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 25, 2017 Author Share Posted November 25, 2017 While I was messing about with the Jaaaag Fatha Thestag was trying to fit a new column indicator, main beam, horn switch The fault was that when using full beam, if the indicators were switched on then all the lights would go off, not very helpful. There didnt seem to be an issue with side lights nor dipped beam. Lucas "Prince of Darkness" at his very best He managed to remove the column top cover and then kind of struggled. I helped by removing the steering wheel. I have a little puller for range rover wheels, 2 minute job! Fatha then stripped it down so that the new switch was in place but then couldnt get it back together Gave up on the Jaaaaag just in time to help. Fatha thestag couldnt get the wiper switch back onto the other side of the bracket. this is a blurred pic of the old switch because I wasnt wearing my glasses when it took it, probably. after a lot of fiddling, trying to work out which screw went where and how the loom routed I got to this point. Wheel went on and all is working beautifully Found root cause of the original problem though. This is a 4 way bullet connector, Fatha thestag was struggling to get the new switch to fit so I gave him another. But then on finding the original in the bolt tray at the end of the job had a look and thought " that don't look right!" Cut it open and .... Old switch was never going to be binned anyway, just because, anyway I plan to give the old switch a good clean and put it on the shelf as a spare Tickman, Banger Kenny, Vince70 and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 Distracted by the Jaaaag and Fatha Thestags Range Rover yesterday Plan was to crack on with cleaning up the rear axle of the project. Lots of surface corrosion Used a twisted wire brush on my axle grinder. pretty effective as shifting all the loose stuff to various other places Drivers side of the axle. wasnt expecting great things from here, this is below the area that I did a lot of chassis welding on Friday Sure enough the wire brush made the holes less smoll. One of the rusted weakened brackets supports the rear spring the other is for the radius arm, so both pretty heavy duty. the last is the axle bump stop Took measurements for where the new bits will be welded Then found a hole in the diff pan, it was looking pretty ropey to be honest stephen01, Cleon-Fonte, danthecapriman and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 Decided to put it off not longer and got busy with the cutting disc Fairly easy to cut through the welds down either side of the bump stop. A gentle tap and it fell orf. what was under it was rusty remains. The axle tube however is pretty good, better in fact than the bits of tube that are right next to it. more measurements from the location of the radius arm mount all gone and flappy disked back. the steel of the axle tube itself is about 8mm thick, there is no part that I need to replace. I might lay down some beads in the hollows though and smooth back prior to painting got busy with the "icepick" hammer and found much soft metal and holes it has to go, patching is not worth it, used a thin cutting disc to cut around the collar of the diff pan so as not to damage the axle casing then with careful use of the cutting disc, cut through the welds that hold the diff pan flange to the axle casing, I did it in chunks. all gone Mr Flappy smoothed the old welds back ready for the new diff pan traditional scrap pile photo zinc primed, looks like a giant die holder spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning back the front radius arms so they can be chassis blacked. blimmin wire cup disc thingy shat all its wire out, most of which I found embedded in my work trousers. More action tomorrow afternoon, does the chassis get powder coated? danthecapriman, uk_senator, Banger Kenny and 18 others 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 day late, powder coat machine failed. no real harm done as I can stay on in Devon and do my paid work down here on my work laptop. anyway all done at midday, just need to watch Bargain Cunt and have my lunch, then off down the road to pick up the borrowed trailer. and head out on the A361 Here is it still warm from the final bake, needed a bit of mechanical help to lift it off. not massively heavy but still 200kg of unwieldy steel dropped and strapped onto the trailer March 2015 November 2017 Maneuvering the trailer into the field was a fiasco that involved two Range Rovers. The ramp is steep and narrow, maybe 8" wider than the trailer, the lane at the bottom is narrow that I couldnt take a swing and drive straight up. Ended up driving past the entrance, then unhitching, swiveling the trailer round, hitching up to the 2nd Range Rover to drag it up the ramp After a distressing amount of shouting at Fatha thestag left hand down etc we got to this point. It is a lot easier to reverse a trailer back down the ramp with me driving, my brain works quicker than my mouth. NOT what Mrs thestag has been telling me for years. plan was devised to get the heavy chassis into the barn with just Fathathestag and me, with one end supported, the pair of us lifted the other end and shoved it as far as it would go before the engine crane went off at an angle, then reset the crane and did it again. quick reorg of the barn, moved the drivers side frame to the back so the chassis can sit where it did. means that in Jan I can use the crane to lower the chassis back down to Horizontal and refit axles Break for Christmas now I think. All depends on it I go on Horrorday with Mrs Thestag and the saucepans 83C, Sheefag, johngarty and 19 others 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 That's looking excellent, nice progress! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Hurrah for a stupidly high excess of Range Rovers. richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Great work. That chassis looks like new! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johngarty Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Great thread, great pics richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exiled_Tat_Gatherer Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 That looks the nuts....... is the price dependent upon size/colour/condition etc....Q. - do you have to 'chase' all the/any threads in the chassis? Or can you place sacrificial bolts in place etc (will they crack the finish as it's all 'melted' together?)I've read up on home systems for smaller parts - using an old oven (guess what's in the corner of the garage!) but never remember reading about the Q's I have above. richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CreepingJesus Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 That looks well. Surprised you didn't knock up a couple of dollies: angle iron, plywood and some castors, and a few spot welds would see you right. Man of your abilities could knock some up in jig time, surely? Q. - do you have to 'chase' all the/any threads in the chassis? Or can you place sacrificial bolts in place etc (will they crack the finish as it's all 'melted' together?)I've read up on home systems for smaller parts - using an old oven (guess what's in the corner of the garage!) but never remember reading about the Q's I have above.Last time I dealt with powder coating and baked stove enamelling, the guys we used were first class (ex Clyde shipbuilding guys who really knew their onions): they wouldn't work on something until it was fully plugged, and even then they recommended chasing everything out, and deburring the odd edge as necessary. Better safe than sorry, and I took that as gospel from them. richardthestag, Skizzer and Exiled_Tat_Gatherer 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 That looks the nuts....... is the price dependent upon size/colour/condition etc....Q. - do you have to 'chase' all the/any threads in the chassis? Or can you place sacrificial bolts in place etc (will they crack the finish as it's all 'melted' together?)I've read up on home systems for smaller parts - using an old oven (guess what's in the corner of the garage!) but never remember reading about the Q's I have above. surprisingly there are no threaded holes on the chassis. Plenty of bolt holes though and these were all bunged up prior to coating. If working at home I would run a sacrificial bolt through what ever was being powder coated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 That looks well. Surprised you didn't knock up a couple of dollies: angle iron, plywood and some castors, and a few spot welds would see you right. Man of your abilities could knock some up in jig time, surely? I did kind of think about it. The plan was originally to use the hoist and a long rope to the back end of the chassis and suspend the whole think horizontal on the engine crane, 2 tonne crane and a decent ratshit strap and I could have done that. but it kept pissing down and I thought two of us lets just shove the bastard. only took 2 mins to shove it in this way CreepingJesus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted December 15, 2017 Author Share Posted December 15, 2017 service day for the daily driver, realised also that I haven't done any underbody protection this year, that will have to wait, ideally need to clean back some of the existing flakey underseal. eek Thought I heard a brake pad out on my epic grand tour of the midlands and south west yesterday but checking today found that they all have plenty of meat left on them. Also checked wheelbearings etc and all seem ok, dunno Changed diff oil on both ends. sorted for the under the car stuff. Engine oil needs doing but wanted to sort out why ATF is coming through the front grill The return pipe on the PAS pump is soaked as is the area under it. The engine fan is just blowing the stuff everywhere Jubilee clip was loose and wouldnt tighten so another fitted. gunked off the area and hope that is fixed. Next up is to check on the thermostat, main reason is the poor performance of the car heater. Bit of a twat to remove, put old and new in a pan of water and brought to the boil. The old opened at 70degrees and the new at 88. Fitted and heater performance is restored Tomorrow will be rear axle work on the project firstly here is the cat confirming that the Die is suitable for wheel studs very robust lumps of steel new diff pan should be fun day tomorrow johngarty, Honey Badger, DeeJay and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 Sounds like a couple of decent fixes on the daily. Everytime I suspect an ATF leak on mine I always assume one of the pipes have rotted through- and they usually are! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 Cat scanning all the parts, now that's dedication. Momentary Lapse Of Reason, brickwall, chodweaver and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted December 16, 2017 Author Share Posted December 16, 2017 Pub last night, proper off grid establishment on Exmoor. Has had a female touch to the Christmas decorations Stoat has pride of place on the tree though. The stoat gets relocated to various locations, nice to see him back again. This is the replacement, fully functional Boge Hydromat bargain that I nabbed on ebay and collexshuned from Leicester on Thursday. It is from a more modern Range Rover than my 72 project but the Boge unit itself is the same throughout. My trusty windee gun died trying to undo the two bolts that hold the a frame to the bottom link Disconnect the lower balljoint from the damper needs a pair of spanners, mine are a mm too thick but do the job, the gaitor is in great condition. Modern repros are made from tissue paper Top balljoint is under another intact gaitor, jubilee clip was seized and therefore sacrificed to save the valuable and unobtainium gaitor balljoint was undone thus liberating the Boge unit for clean and paint The top mount is different for early cars, early top mount is on the right need to remove the balljoint from the top mount so a new one can be installed. I find by running a thin cutting disc under the hex head section helps Much abuse from stilson and 3lb hammer and it turned. see the two red dots, the stilson slips so I need to know when it starts to move And that is out, top mount to be shotblasted and painted next danthecapriman, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, Cleon-Fonte and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chodweaver Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 More brilliant step by step stuff! Thanks. Even though I (to my shame) have no LRs lying around, there's hints and tips here that I intend to remember for b'stard jobs on other vehicles. Sent from my BV6000 using Tapatalk richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted December 16, 2017 Author Share Posted December 16, 2017 Also today chased the thread through on all four hubs, the cat was right on the die size CV joints next, quick clean remove the balls and assess balls and cage for wear. this one is a Dusey This one is not, see the wear line on the inner cage Next up is to align the new bits on the rear axle, steel rule and spirit level set me up perfectly welder is buggered though. gas is leaking from the pipe. need to get some clips tomorrow to secure it. Wasnt in the mood for welding today anyway concentrated my efforts on sorting all the radius arms and stuff out, remove the bushes from this rear radius arm and the "stainless" sleeve was stuck.. heat and cutting slots,etc failed eventually gave way, then found that the arm is bent, arghhhhhhh only 3mm out but still more tomorrow chodweaver, John F, danthecapriman and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 That vice would be much more useful if it was bolted down! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 That vice would be much more useful if it was bolted down! it is on the list of things DeeJay 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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