Jump to content
richardthestag

Land Rover resto - new project and Sandy p25

Recommended Posts

Another afternoon in the barn, too much curry and brown beer last night to comprehend attacking the angle grinder before midday. Then I knocked off at 4:30 to watch the Rugby and wished I hadn't

 

Still I managed to get the lower B Post, wheel arch extension in and the closing panel cut, and prepped ready to weld in. 

 

This is the captive nut and reinforcing panel for the rear seat back side catch. I salvaged it from the old side curtain that I cut out. It responded well to de rusting

 

post-3439-0-26810600-1489863689_thumb.jpg

 

So zinc primed him up ready to weld on tomorrow

post-3439-0-78071800-1489863690_thumb.jpg

 

Then quadruple checked the fit and alignment for my lower b-post repair panel

post-3439-0-40153200-1489863694_thumb.jpg

 

Weather is a bit shit today

almost like a good Scottish summer

post-3439-0-96146800-1489863698_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-43849800-1489863700_thumb.jpg

 

Tacked the repair in

post-3439-0-54504700-1489863701_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-97884200-1489863702_thumb.jpg

 

the lined up the wheel arch extension

post-3439-0-59713500-1489863713_thumb.jpg

 

and welded in, The n/s is bolted in to allow access for the fuel pump. I welded the o/s though

post-3439-0-73861300-1489863714_thumb.jpg

 

Tomorrow

1. Fill in that gap ^^ between wheel arch ext and B Post

2. Fit seat back side catch "captive nut" panel

3. Make up and fit rear seat base support

4. fit rear seat and check alignment

5. go ome and see Mrs thestag and the saucepans

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need to have a bit of a clear up in the lock up. I lot of this is going back onto the car but not for a few months. want to have a go at fixing the door shells before handing over to the bodyshop man to prep and paint the birmabright panels

 

post-3439-0-91395200-1489864671_thumb.jpg

 

Here is the remains of the sIIA rear silencer that went bang so loudly that North Devon Police mobilised their armed response team 4 days later

 

Garage art now

 

post-3439-0-25869500-1489864670_thumb.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

feeling shit today so I thought that I might post up activities from last Sunday :D

 

While I do have a sheet metal bender it is a tinsey affair that would struggle with much more than tinfoil. Using a metal vice, length of angle iron, g clamps and a nylon faced hammer I have improvised and am getting more and more pleased with the results I get

 

Measure up first, then plan on paper, then cut then bend

 

post-3439-0-30620100-1490286733_thumb.jpg

 

then use the hammer to sharpen the edge

post-3439-0-62340200-1490286735_thumb.jpg

 

If the flange (snigger) is too wide to allow the vice to clamp I normally use a block of wood, but here you can see the hammer improvising

 

post-3439-0-98960800-1490286737_thumb.jpg

 

After measuring up 4 times, transferring to paper and then checking measurements again before cutting and bending this is genuinely the first trial fit, well chuffed with that

post-3439-0-57411200-1490286739_thumb.jpg

 

 

measured up and made a reinforcing plate for the captive nuts

post-3439-0-40592700-1490286741_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-3439-0-16133800-1490286743_thumb.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

next bit is to weld the seat mount to the floor, side curtain

 

the gap here is normal? I dont know really, it would be covered up by the wheel arch extension on the other side

post-3439-0-13368000-1490287292_thumb.jpg

 

But I choose to cut a length of heavy duty angle

post-3439-0-14477400-1490287294_thumb.jpg

 

and weld it in for extra strength

post-3439-0-27164600-1490287296_thumb.jpg

 

 

Holes punched for plug weldage

post-3439-0-93039800-1490287297_thumb.jpg

 

welded and flatted out

post-3439-0-24335600-1490287299_thumb.jpg

 

By the way just how much cutting disc should you leave on the grinder?

 

Reckon this should have a little more left in it but the grinder wont let it get any closer to the work-piece

 

post-3439-0-23250400-1490287495_thumb.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Next bit is the lower curtain, that boxes in the side of the car from the back of the b-post to the lower inner wheel arch

 

Cut a lump of steel out and with not a load of drama trimmed it up to fit. couple of gentle bends to get it flush

post-3439-0-18145000-1490287798_thumb.jpg

 

Weldage 

post-3439-0-67826700-1490287801_thumb.jpg

 

zinc paint protection to the bare steel, no idea when I will blast this all back to bare metal for proper treatment

post-3439-0-84192400-1490287803_thumb.jpg

 

Flatted back the b-post weld 

post-3439-0-87269500-1490287806_thumb.jpg

 

thought i did more pics but the seat back captive nut plate is now welded in place

post-3439-0-52661500-1490287808_thumb.jpg

 

Happy for now

post-3439-0-44852000-1490287810_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Having a weekend off welding :D

 

Mainly because the car is 180 miles away from where i am, so I decided to get on with sorting out a pair of cylinder heads

 

Sealey head stands work nicely and give a nice stable platform to do stuff like removing valves. I bought them to work with the Stag heads which are OHC and thus always have valves in varying states of openness

post-3439-0-98677900-1490466429_thumb.jpg

 

All nicely OCD :D

post-3439-0-66663100-1490466431_thumb.jpg

 

Valves are in good shape, no wear on the guides, the seats look good, light clean and lap is all that is going to be required here

post-3439-0-73545600-1490466434_thumb.jpg

 

After 15 mins in the blast cabinet - which I had to spend 30 mins fixing - the glass media was all stuck together. emptied it out. shook the media about a bit and then dumped it back in again

post-3439-0-91306500-1490466436_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-93880700-1490466439_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-61491200-1490466441_thumb.jpg

 

Had a go with engine degreaser and a wire cup wheel to get them looking nice, dont know whether I will point the outside faces or roughly polish and then laquer. the jury is currently out

post-3439-0-85522200-1490466443_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-06443100-1490466446_thumb.jpg

 

Pleased with this one, probably 90 mins work and it is all ready to go back together. no bits needed

 

Still need to inspect the rocker gear, maybe tomorrow :D

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While I was messing with the head I lobbed a load of used nut and bolts into my vibrating tumbler

 

These is my ancient nut and bolt box

 

post-3439-0-42210700-1490467023_thumb.jpg

 

this is the tumbler without the lid on it

post-3439-0-34426200-1490467014_thumb.jpg

 

This is the same stuff after 3hours being tumbled with some coarse walnut shell

 

post-3439-0-69431900-1490467018_thumb.jpg

 

Can now see what might back into the reuse pile and what is rubbish now. 

 

Can have a go a sorting into metric, UNC and UNF as there is a bit of everything in there

 

Just have another 15kg of rusty nuts and bolts to go now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another little job that I did last night. My daily has had a squeaky heater blower motor for years. I occasionally jet a load of wd40 into the motor housing but recently there are some nasty burney electricy smells filling the car. I have a spare heater unit in my shed from a Rangie I broke for spares a decade ago. That motor was fooked also but you can but them from Land Rover Traders

 

The idea is to fit new motor to this heater unit, check the rest of it over, matrix and flaps and then on a sunny day spend a day swapping them over. First step is to get the old unit apart.

 

Nothing that nasty to be honest, lots of clips and screws hold the two halfs together, here I have taken the drivers side end plate off

post-3439-0-72417500-1490467435_thumb.jpg

 

on the other end is a load of vacuum gubbins for the fresh air flap

post-3439-0-12445200-1490467438_thumb.jpg

 

With the two end caps off you can see the state of the motor, nice

post-3439-0-84499100-1490467442_thumb.jpg

 

it slides into a plastic cradle that fors part of the left side of the heater unit case, sadly you cannot push it out without seperating to two heater halfs. so motor replacement is defo a heater out of the car jobby

post-3439-0-66619700-1490467445_thumb.jpg

 

This is the front of the unit, the heater controls are in the middle of the pic. just above them you can see 4 pop rivets, drill the two out on the left side of the casing :D

post-3439-0-19646000-1490467448_thumb.jpg

 

The fresh air flap on the back of the unit prevents the two halves coming apart. after a load of fucking about i positioned the flap in the closed position and then cut a tinsy slit on the right half of the case inside to allow the flap to slide past and stay with the left half of the casing

 

post-3439-0-50595700-1490468094_thumb.jpg

 

Happy days

post-3439-0-47393100-1490467450_thumb.jpg

 

This is the carrier for the motor which I had just tapped out with the hadle of a hammer

post-3439-0-20485100-1490467453_thumb.jpg

 

here is the noisy fucker

post-3439-0-95570800-1490467455_thumb.jpg

 

Verdict, it is fucked, new motor needed, matrix is fine though so only need to buy motor before rebuilding this and then a day to fit it on the car

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Being a bit odd in the head like I pondered why it is that folk replace valve springs. How do they know they old uns is fucked?

 

i did a bit of goog-ha-ling and found that race folk are mega anal about spring loads etc and spend many hundreds of $ on machines that tell them how good their shit is.

 

Me thinks well I could check mine, I made up a very simples press. The only thing I need is a new spring to set the baseline :D

 

The testing location of the spring is fixed by a nicely located cup washer. makes little odds where it is so long as all springs are tested at the same location

post-3439-0-90169000-1491074838_thumb.jpg

 

measurement is from a spring balance. I pull on it until the top bar touches the end of the bottom bar and record the findings

post-3439-0-13686600-1491074845_thumb.jpg

 

Clamping it to the bench made it a one handed operation

post-3439-0-00558100-1491074851_thumb.jpg

 

results were with 250g of each other

post-3439-0-79493600-1491074855_thumb.jpg

 

Verdict - no idea really but it cost me fuck all to make except the cost of the spring scale - £3.58

 

I will buy a new valve spring and expect it to read the same else I replace all the springs etc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

next up sort out the rocker cover and reassemble the head

 

Rocker cover was jizer'd and then bead blasted in the cabinet, before being thoroughly cleaned. Came up nice for the internals. Externals needs the remains of the old grey paint sanding back before repainting

post-3439-0-77321100-1491075579_thumb.jpg

 

Head stand take the head either way up, ftw

post-3439-0-00672700-1491075588_thumb.jpg

 

valve heads were de carboned using a dremel flap disk

post-3439-0-70478300-1491075596_thumb.jpg

 

here is the valvee as removed

post-3439-0-63559900-1491075603_thumb.jpg

 

a drill powered valve lapper is new to me, I normally use the old bit of wood with a sucker on the end. fookin luxury this for me

post-3439-0-44668500-1491075611_thumb.jpg

 

does the same job with ever so slightly less effort. Had the Draper lapper not landed in my lap for nowt then I would still be doing it the old manual way

post-3439-0-49185400-1491075618_thumb.jpg

 

Everything lapped and cleaned up ready for reassembly

post-3439-0-26224000-1491075627_thumb.jpg

 

#1

post-3439-0-02670900-1491075635_thumb.jpg

 

9 mins later. have a beer now

post-3439-0-99249600-1491075644_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today made a call that I want to SPL the body frame, mean that it needs to be dipped and then prepped. This will help it stave off the ferrous oxide for a year or too.

 

I am sick of welding now anyway and the core strength is back into it.

 

Tidying up the store and I turned and liked this scene for some reason 

post-3439-0-01276200-1491076466_thumb.jpg

 

It all bolts together so I started removing loose fitted bonnet and front inner wings

post-3439-0-02537300-1491076476_thumb.jpg

 

then the roof panel which was very loose bolted up anyway - :/

post-3439-0-27475700-1491076485_thumb.jpg

 

Windscreen header rail is held on by 4 bolts

post-3439-0-85899800-1491076494_thumb.jpg

 

rear "goalpost" is connected by 2 mounts and 12 bolts to the side frames, had to drill through a couple of welds but nowt serious

post-3439-0-75288300-1491076502_thumb.jpg

 

All out of the way

post-3439-0-19364700-1491076511_thumb.jpg

 

nearside side frame is held on by two mounts and 2 screws / 4 bolts holding it to the bulkhead

post-3439-0-46864800-1491076519_thumb.jpg

 

almost there

post-3439-0-77525400-1491076526_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The plan now is to load all the inner frame panels, two side, rear "goalposts", bulkhead and front inner wings into a van and ferry them to the best (yet to be chosen) firm to dip and protect.

 

I can finish the welding and paint :D

 

Nice bare chassis in process of being stripped down, I will lift engine and box and grit blast it before painting and rebuilding

post-3439-0-94063300-1491076974_thumb.jpg

 

Store is looking a bit busy again. need to be a bit careful of denting stuff

post-3439-0-45209900-1491076981_thumb.jpg

 

Found this penny stuck to the gearbox crossmemer, this is after I had cleaned it to check the date. It might be stuck back here again after. lucky bugger?!?

post-3439-0-69588000-1491076999_thumb.jpg

 

Props and exhaust removed, the exhaust turns out to have stainless boxes!!! need to clean back the pipes which look rusty but are sound. 

post-3439-0-18703000-1491077009_thumb.jpg

 

Two loops of the o/s/r spring are missing, this is all I could find. 

post-3439-0-23698000-1491077018_thumb.jpg

 

Tomorrow going to lift engine and box off. Oh and the gearbox is 8000th ish off the line. so chassis, both axles and box are all date matched.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

slight change of plan today, decided not to remove the engine and box largely because I have nowhere to put them and sitting on a rolling chassis is pretty ideal for now.

 

What i did do is get it stripped right down so that only the 4 mounts need to be removed to lift it.

 

post-3439-0-89204500-1491159951_thumb.jpg

 

I still want to get the front cover and inlet manifold off to protect bits that might get broken

post-3439-0-29280400-1491159969_thumb.jpg

 

Removed the gearbox crossmember and was pleased at the lack of holes behind it

post-3439-0-79373300-1491159977_thumb.jpg

 

Next was to strip down the axles ready for blasting, discs and pads are unused, the callipers look to have stainless pistons installed but the unions and nipples are in a state. lots of gentle heat and careful removal on the bench mefinks

post-3439-0-63114600-1491159985_thumb.jpg

 

Swivels look gr9. still getting stripped right down and then rebuilt.

post-3439-0-41537500-1491159995_thumb.jpg

 

rear callipers look to have been rebuilt, discs have loads of life left in them

post-3439-0-60231900-1491160002_thumb.jpg

 

run out of time for this weekend. next time i plan to finish stripping down the rear axle, get driveshafts and diff out and then do the front, lift the engine and if I get time fire up the old bead blaster.

 

I want the rolling chassis stripped and painted before I do the body frame dipping, Then it can all start to go back together.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice weather this weekend so finished two jobs while at home.

 

Daily Driver heater unit first, this is the unit I am rebuilding to do a straight swap for the Banshee screaming unit I have in the car.

 

Pressure testing the matrix was the first thing. Luckily I have a load of old hoses, clips and expansion tanks to righ up this. Help 20lb pressure for an hour so that is hopefully going to remain leak free

 

post-3439-0-38015600-1491914738_thumb.jpg

 

Installed it into the heater box

post-3439-0-97062200-1491914740_thumb.jpg

 

I bought a brand spanking new heater motor from a trader on evilbay, www.mcdonald4x4.co.uk is his website, slightly cheaper than any of the other online guys and never used before

 

The only issue with it was slight difference in the wiring, shorter wires etc. 

post-3439-0-93010500-1491914743_thumb.jpg

 

easy enough to cut

post-3439-0-59344000-1491914745_thumb.jpg

 

n shut

post-3439-0-63294400-1491914747_thumb.jpg

 

installed into the housing

post-3439-0-78582500-1491914749_thumb.jpg

 

AND after a lot of fiddling getting flaps in the right place, swearing at them does help, it was all together

post-3439-0-78460600-1491914752_thumb.jpg

 

On the shelf waiting for a day in my calendar to be free so I can fit it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In other news, I chose home time to rebuild a pair of rocker shafts from the Rover v8.

 

Consists of steel shaft with alloy rockers. the oil feed is up one of the rocker pillars that bolts it down to the head. Oil then flows along the shaft and dribbles down onto the inside of the rocker to ensure lubrication.

 

The ridges and sludge on this shows just how bad things can get, I know none of the history of these rocker shafts.

post-3439-0-63171600-1492446431_thumb.jpg

 

The only bits that I can salvage from the old shaft is the pillars, the springs and the washers from the ends. To reuse the rockers even though they seem a reasonable fit on a new shaft is a false economy! think fitting used brake pads to a new disc. one will wear the other and you know the disc will suffer.

 

The posts were lobbed into the ultrasonic cheapo cleaner I bought off the bay, tapwater, washing up liquid, 200ml of vinegar and salt cleans stuff up nicely in 15 mins. This is the before

post-3439-0-23890400-1492446434_thumb.jpg

 

here are the salvaged bits with new shaft, the second rocker setup is here also for comparison. shiny things

post-3439-0-74553500-1492446436_thumb.jpg

 

Assembly is very therapeutic, the oil holes point downwards and towards the pushrod end of the rocker. The rockers have a specific way to go on. Looking at the valve end, the dot should be furthest from the shaft pillars

post-3439-0-81728400-1492446438_thumb.jpg

 

All done

post-3439-0-04046600-1492446441_thumb.jpg

 

New split pin on each end holds it all together. So much fun I am glad I have another to do. These are now wrapped up in plastic ready for the rebuilt engine

post-3439-0-74477300-1492446442_thumb.jpg

 

While I was at it I checked the rebuilt head valve seats. Get it level and pour pez (i used 2 stroke so I can see it) into the combustion chambers. None leaked thus good seats

post-3439-0-79718000-1492446444_thumb.jpg

 

I also measured how much goes into here so Along with piston crown and head gasket thickness I can calculate compression ratio

post-3439-0-38644800-1492446446_thumb.jpg

 

Stripped down the 2nd head ready for blasting and although someone has gone to great effort grinding in valves and facing the head all 4 inlet valve guides are tired. 

post-3439-0-50420000-1492446448_thumb.jpg

 

Looking to get modern valve guides installed so I can fit stem oil seals and cut oil consumption a little

post-3439-0-20552100-1492446450_thumb.jpg

 

Both heads now stripped and ready to go to my local engineering shop

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting stuff! I went through pretty much the same as you did recently, but I was lucky enough to fin a set of good second hand shafts & rockers in the garage. They weren't perfect but only had a polished area on the underside rather than a wear ridge. I'd read of people who'd had problems with excess oil flow using pattern rockers, flooding the top end and reducing oil pressure; hence why I was reluctant to replace with new (and I couldn't afford OE!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

been down in Devon since Thursday noight. boring paid work on friday and then beers in the evening

 

Sa TURD ay filled my 20 gallon sand blaster and had a play with it on teh chassis. Instructions were useless but I found that by slowing the gravity feed of grit out of the bottom of the pressurised tank It was pretty effective at shifting everything from soft underseal to crunchy rust leaving a very pleasing bare steel surface. It is however a fiendishly messy business. oh and quite slow. I recon on a full day to get the chassis back to bare metal. I plan to revisit and finish the job in a couple of weeks. Will need loads of tarp, a staple gun, my old garage bagless vacuum cleaner and a kitchen sieve. More of that in a couple of weeks.

 

Today I decided to have a go at tidying up welds on the bulkhead section of the body frame. I had securely tagged the various bits together but wanted to grind it back and seam weld where I felt it was needed. also stripped all the bits off the bulkhead that I wanted to keep before it and the rest of the frame goes off to SPL for dipping

 

Chassis makes a useful rolling workbench

post-3439-0-87310000-1493585969_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-10729400-1493585977_thumb.jpg

 

nice fun seam welds ready to be ground back

post-3439-0-12102500-1493585984_thumb.jpg

 

inside and out

post-3439-0-18263100-1493585991_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-82309000-1493585997_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-80431900-1493586007_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-61300200-1493586015_thumb.jpg

 

welded small plates over holes cut into repair panels that I will not need, these are hidden behind body work on the outside and trim on the inside

 

post-3439-0-24491700-1493586029_thumb.jpg

 

the two rough round holes were for the previous owners rubber duck, what it almost certainly did though was allow rain water that found its way through the scuttle vents to drip into the car. Now welded up. but run out of welding gas

post-3439-0-33636300-1493586036_thumb.jpg

 

Tidy Orse waiting patiently for an apple

post-3439-0-25031100-1493586545_thumb.jpg

 

Dads series IIa has had a problem with binding brakes when cold for a while now. never really had a chance to have a look at it. found that it was the back axle that was binding. 

 

post-3439-0-44480300-1493586555_thumb.jpg

 

that aint right! 

 

update, the shoe springs are correctly fitted, the trailing shoe should flap about like that, read on for ongoing brake saga

post-3439-0-49440900-1493586563_thumb.jpg

 

the slave cylinder has two pistons, the brake shoes pivot from the bottom of the backplate and are each pushed out by their own piston. There obviously should be a spring to pull the shoes back together again. It was there but wasnt installed right. I had to do both sides. then free off the manual adjusters which are predictably rounded off. when I get gas (snigger) I will weld a nut onto the rounded stub of each adjuster to make life a little easier.

 

Anyway all back together and no binding brakes no more. 

 

BUT the pedal now sinks to the floor, it can be pumped up and the brakes work then but obviousment needs bleedage. will do next time I is down here, 

 

Going home tomorrow morn to fix that stag

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Who built those brakes last to leave the springs out then?

 

isnt that the springs were left out but that they were not connecting both shoes at the top. for some reason the forward shoe was connecting to a post on the back plate. Doesnt make sense at all. There are many many different brake setups for the series landies and I can only assume that the backplate is the same for all those with 10" drums

 

Last time I was here was during the chassis rebuild in 2010. shall have to ask Fathathastag if he had the garage fiddle for an MOT etc :D

 

update, the shoe springs are correctly fitted, the trailing shoe should flap about like that, read on for ongoing brake saga

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just found a pile of pics from April/May 2016 when I rebuilt a Rover V8 inlet manifold.

 

Damn good therapy for dep and high levels of stress. well for me it is anyway :D briefly :(

 

Anyway, stole them from ebay, I stalk shite like this and when badly advertised I pounce. Picked these up years ago for £35 + £8 p&p

 

Of the two projects I have going one has an Edelbrock and 4 barrel which will possibly stay. The other has a Range Rover manifold but stubby SUs.

 

The plan maybe to install correct Stromberg laden inlet manifold to the rebuilt engine...

 

Anyway on with this piccies

 

As bought, looks like it has been under a work bench for a very long time. lots of bits are still attached which is useful

post-3439-0-98321400-1494150462_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-08554300-1494150464_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-11462500-1494150465_thumb.jpg

 

Once the manifold was stripped down, I blasted it with glass bead in my cabinet and then painted it. not into mirror finish alloy stuff on engines. too high maintenance.

 

I originally planned to paint it battleship grey but this seems to only have been for saloon car installations. Range Rovers seem to have been painted silver or left as bare alloy 

post-3439-0-93448000-1494150465_thumb.jpg

 

these toothy fellers were found inbetween the carb and the inlet manifold. never seen them like this before

post-3439-0-88625600-1494150634_thumb.jpg

 

stripped and cleaned one carb at the time. while the body is NOT handed all the bits and unions are. saves on a load of confusion later in reassembly

 

Carb body was cleaned in ultrasonic cleaning tank, proved effective. body then painted with HT aluminium paint 

post-3439-0-93481000-1494150691_thumb.jpg

 

For many of the fittings I lobbed them into the tumbling vibrator for 24h. gentle massage with walnut shells takes just about anything back to clean

post-3439-0-91686700-1494150692_thumb.jpg

 

first carb body done and back on the manifold

post-3439-0-93702400-1494150693_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By captain_70s
      Hullo,
       
      I'm a masochist from Leeds who is running two rusty, worn out Triumph Dolomites as my only transport in rural Aberdeenshire. You might recognise me from various other forums and Facebook groups. Realistically I need to buy a modern car of some sort, but instead I find myself looking at £300 Citroen BXs and Triumph Acclaims on Gumtree and thinking "yeah, that'd fit right in with the rest of the broken cars I can't afford".
       
      On to the cars, the main attraction being my 1976 1850HL "50 Shades of Yellow" that I bought for £850 and is currently my daily driver, here is a picture of it before I sanded off some surface rust and sprayed it badly in the wrong shade of yellow with rattle cans:
       

       
      Within a month of purchase I managed to plant it in to a steel fence backwards after a botched gear change on a wet roundabout and ruined the N/S rear wing, although judging by the other dent that's packed with filler it looks like somebody had already done the same. I also managed to destroy a halfshaft and one of my Sprint alloys (good for an extra 15hp) in the incident, so now it's sitting on it's original steelies but painted black (good for an extra 5hp).
       
      It's only broken down on me twice. once with some sort of fuel delivery related problem which may or may not have been an empty fuel tank and once when the thermostat jammed shut and it overheated and blew out some O-rings for the cooling system. It has recently developed a taste for coolant and oil which is rather annoying, although it's done 89,300 miles which is about 80,000 more miles than BL engineering is designed to last, I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines... 
      I tried to keep ahead of the rust a bit by rubbing down the arches and re-painting them, but apparently rattle can paint isn't great when you are spraying it at -5C, it also highlighted how although my car might have been Inca Yellow in 1976 it's now more of a "cat piss" sort of shade. So I ended up with the wrong shade of yellow which has rust coming back through after 5 weeks. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
       
      The other car is the first "classic" car I bought, so I can't bear to sell it. It's a '77 Dolomite 1300 and it cost £1400 (about £400 too much) and has been nothing but a pain in the arse:
       

       
      It looks much prettier (from 100 yards) but that's most due to the darker paintwork hiding the rust. It lives a mollycoddled life in my garage, where it somehow still manages to rust, and is utterly rubbish. 0-60 is measured on a calendar, top speed is 80ish but at that point it uses more oil than petrol, it rarely ventures over 50mph and if you encounter an incline of any sort you can kiss that sort of speed goodbye, along with about £20 of 20W50 as it vanishes out of the exhaust in the form of blue smoke.
       
      One of the PO's had clearly never heard of the term "oil change" so it developed into brown sludge that coated everything internally with the next owner(s) blissfully pouring fresh oil on top of it. This lasted until about 600 miles into my ownership when there was muffled "pop" from the engine bay and the car became a 3-cylinder. The cause was catastrophic wear to the top end causing a rocker arm to snap:
       

       
      As this was my first classic car I'd assumed it was supposed to sound like the engine was full of marbles, it wasn't.
       
      I put the engine back together with second hand bits declared it utterly fucked and promptly did another 5000 miles with it. After about 3500 of those miles the oil burning started, valve seals have gone so it's been relegated to my parent's garage as a backup car and something to take to local car shows as the 1850 is now embarrassingly ugly. I'm keeping my eye on eBay for replacement engines (deja vu, anybody?) Oh, I also recently reversed it into a parked Ford Fiesta and royally fucked up the rear bumper, rear panel and bootlid. Did I mention I'm incompetent?
       
      There have been two other cars in my life. My first car, a 2008 Toyota Yaris 1.0 an it's replacement a 2012 Corsa 1.4T. I didn't really want either of them, but it's a long story involving my parents and poor life choices. Ask if you want to hear it!
       
      So that's a brief summary of my current shite. If you want more pictures or details of anything do say as I've got photos of almost everything I'd done with the cars.
    • By Supernaut
      What does £191 on eBay get you?
       
       
       
       
      An E36 BMW 316i with two sets of wheels, a DAB radio, an MOT until December, 110k miles on the clocks, a slightly* fucked back box and a bit of grot on the driver's side sill.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       
      This is co-owned between me and 17-Coffees and our plan is to do a light restoration and just generally piss about with it. It's actually really nice to drive, and is surprisingly brisk for only being a 1.6.
       
      Yes, the alloys are getting sacked off ASAP as it came with the original steel wheels with all-but-new Toyo Proxes on them!
    • By davehedgehog31
      I've had various threads on the go for different collections this year, but thought I'd condense my threads into one manageable thread to document my ham-fisted tinkering.

      At the turn of the year I was driving a nice, dependable, modern 2011 Peugeot 407 and no other vehicle. It was nice enough, but boring as feck. I'd bought it after a series of disastrous heaps in the awkward age bracket of being new and valuable enough to worry about but old enough to be fucked. The 407 was just too new, too bloated and dull. I had a hankering for old metal, my Mineral Oil withdrawal pangs were strong.

      From January I started looking, there were eBay bids, missed reserves, wasted trips from Gumtree and other such nonsense. I happened on an automatic Rover 216 GSI with one giffer owner from a year old. The chap was giving up driving at 93 years old and his grandson was moving it on. I bid, and failed. It was in London though, about 420 miles away so I wasn't all that bothered. Of course when he offered it to me for my losing bid after the winning buyer was a no show I said yes. I was on the Megabus down to that London overnight for about £15. I hung about in Liverpool Street station like a mad shivering jakey until my train out to the suburb for my first sight of the new steed. It was battered outside but had been well looked after. A frankly insulting amount of cash changed hands and I was away up the road.

      We had many adventures together, it was dependable and it whet my appetite for interesting old motors again and proved that the very bottom end of the market was navigable if I had the patience to wade through the sea of shit to find the odd pearl.



      The 407 was still on the fleet at this point but I was covering a lot of miles in the Rover, with a long commute though the fuel economy wasn't ideal. When a friend's mother was looking for a new diesel saloon to replace the faithful old Xsara she had a scheme was concocted. I sold the 407 to her and was on the hunt for an interesting replacement.

      When I was growing up my dad had a succession of hopeless shitters, indeed I was brought home from the hospital as a newborn in a brush painted Skoda Super Estelle. The best car he had was a red XUD Peugeot 405 with air conditioning and electric windows. So when I found a 1994 GTXD advertised by someone who could actually compose a car advert in the fashion you would expect of a human being educated to a Primary School level, I pounced.

      Of course I couldn't buy a car just down the road so it was on the train to Birmingham. First class no less. I stayed in an absolute flea pit of a hotel and drove up the road the next day. This was a proper bit of nostalgia and a really practical borderline classic car. It had been fastidiously maintained by the previous owner. Apart from there being a hole where there was once a stereo and the lack of working air con it was a pleasant drive home.

      Given their relative scarcity and how dependable this one has proven so far, it's a keeper, I'd struggle to part with it.



      Two cars just wasn't enough to worry about, so this Citroen C1 was acquired. Pure Aleppo spec. A camel can go for weeks, or months without stopping at a watering hole, the C1 has a similar thirst for Motor Spirit. Man maths were employed and worked out that it would easily* pay for itself.




      There have been further movements, I'll recap them shortly. I should probably do some work.
×
×
  • Create New...