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mat_the_cat

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Everything posted by mat_the_cat

  1. Hermes have on one occasion previously managed to give me the GPS location of where the parcel was 'delivered', but it was a battle to get through to someone. On two other occasions they've been even less helpful... My latest problem with them last week was that for several days the tracking info was showing delivery had been attempted, yet we were in all the time. My wife had at the same time raised an investigation into the driver who had collected a parcel from her (so they clearly know the correct address) which hadn't reached the depot, so I suspect the driver wanted to avoid awkward questions. Sure enough it was delivered the first day we went out! It's got to the point where I'll avoid anything delivered with them (and Yodel), or ask if I can pay extra for a proper delivery service.
  2. That's my plan B, although depending on how far in from the spine it extends, it may obscure some of the text. (Not that I have to refer to the manual often, I think I've figured out how the car works after 24 years!)
  3. Things have been a bit quiet on the Stellar front, and I can't see it on the road until next year now sadly. It'll hopefully *finally* give me chance to sort the gearbox leak at least! In the meantime I'm going to try repairing a far less important item (and hence a more appealing task!) 36 years of use have taken their toll! You can see that the previous owner has obviously decided to put it in a ring binder after it disintegrated, then presumably realised that punching holes along the bottom made it rather difficult to read! I should imagine that trying to find another, for the pre-facelift versions made for only 2 years, might be tricky. First stage was to straighten it out, and clamp the pages together. I've bought some book-binding adhesive although normal PVA can be used. I suspect it's just watered-down PVA anyway, to help penetrate the pages edges, but it was hardly expensive. Then I dribbled it onto the spine, and from now on it's just a case of adding a thin layer once dry, and repeat. The first layer seemed to soak in very well (hopefully not all over the pages!) so need to build up a thicker layer for strength.
  4. Yes, I'm just discovering the minefield of Bronze Greens! Easiest thing to do is to ask the previous owner where he got the paint mixed, and grab some more.
  5. I had a bit more time today than I thought, and the weather was perfect for spraying - still, sunny, yet cool enough for there to be no insects around. So I etch primed it and gave three coats of Bronze Green from a rattle can (3 in total). I knew it was Bronze Green as there was a left over tin from the respray with that written on the side. Paint went on reasonably OK, although a couple of areas need flatting back. But the biggest problem is that it's the wrong sodding colour! The code on the tin is G6465, which I've now discovered bears no relation to either green. I'm thinking that (if it's actually a LR colour) it's more like Coniston Green than Bronze. I certainly prefer the body shade to the new green at least!
  6. Especially if you wear a welding helmet like this.
  7. Funnily enough I almost lost an Alfa 75 in the same way! Again I propped the carpet up with an extension bar, but a spark landed on what I thought was a cable on the inside of the floorpan. That turned out to be the (under pressure) nylon fuel line, which with a pinhole in it processed to soak the carpet in petrol! The car was saved by my girlfriend at the time who was watching, thinking quickly enough to grab a CO2 fire extinguisher and put it out!
  8. I know the feeling well! Fortunately things are a bit better now time-wise, and I'm using the justification that I can sell the tailgate for more than the safari door cost. Hence I'm actually earning money! Not much time on it for a week or so, but I managed to hang it temporarily (again!) to check alignment. Great success!
  9. Yes. I'm older and wiser now (and own the proper trousers). Oddly I've never been much of a 309 fan, preferring the looks of the 205. But reading this thread and the history of the Talbot Arizona almost makes me want one!
  10. I didn't take any work in progress photos, but the first stage of the door repairs was to replace the bottom rail. There was a section below the lock which was also rust weakened, so that was cut out and replaced too. Followed by the closing sections of the upright, and cross piece. All ground back in readiness for paint... And coated with Zinga. Sealant was then applied to the surfaces contacting the door skin, and it was offered up before hammering round the flange to secure. That took a lot less time to write than to do! Probably about two days solid work in total to get to this stage. The skin was quite tricky to get the edges tucked under the two uprights either side of the window, at the same time as getting the lip over the window bottom rail. Still, it's done now and just hope it fits!
  11. I've bitten the bullet and decided to replace the rear door skin. It was only around £30, and means I can be more brutal with the old skin without worrying about refitting it. So here is the door frame in all its glory: Slightly worse than expected, although it was so easy to remove the skin I was half tempted just replace it without any frame repairs, and only repair that when it falls apart. I won't though! The observant will spot a couple of other changes too - firstly I've painted the LR logo on the mudflaps, as the old original flaps would have. My method is rather cheaper than buying a NOS pair... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-Land-Rover-Series-88-SWB-Series-1-2-2a-3-Rear-Mud-Flaps-Brackets-GLR304-/402005387571 The other change you might see is the rear seats, as we've had them re-covered. We had plenty of material left over from the Airstream, but I think the colours suit the Landy well enough.
  12. For an embarrassingly long time this has been seeping diesel from the filler. Not enough to be a hazard, just enough to leave a permanently oily stain around the cap It seemed to be coming from the seal between the flange and filler neck. This is still easily available, as shared with the T25 - happily available as a genuine VW part marginally cheaper than the pattern parts listed on eBay! This attaches to the tank fill tube with a jubilee clip, within a boxed-in section just behind the rear wheel. You can't actually see it, but just about get your fingers on it if you reach upwards. I sprayed some penetrating fluid up there, more in hope than expectation, and manipulated a 7mm socket onto the hex head. That span uselessly, so either 28 years of corrosion meant the head was a rusty mess, or maybe it's a 6mm? Yes, that seems to fit - I'll just try and turn it, as no point trying to fit a ratchet up there if it's rounded off! To my amazement, it only went and loosened off!!! Then just the simple job of reassembly, and hopefully all will be dry, although I need to touch up the Rustoleum where the diesel has attacked it. At the same time of getting the seal I was able to pick up a couple of bargains from a dealer clearing out old stock. Pattern clutch cables are around £30, and I'd been meaning to get one just in case, as a RHD cable would be slower to source in Europe. For a tenner a genuine one was a no brainer! And I don't know how much a new headlight should be, but I'd wager more than £20 I'll finish up with a photo from a decent trip to Northumberland, where we passed through a village sharing my surname!
  13. I had a reasonable night's sleep, although not completely uneventful. As I was getting into bed I heard the door rattling, as if someone was trying to get in. I had a look, but as expected given where we live, nobody around. During the night it didn't feel as warm as I'd hoped, although the heat pump was still blowing out warm air. Biggest problem was how draughty it was, so I resolved that I'd have to do something about that before taking in paying guests. Imagine my surprise when in the morning the door was wide open and fastened back, yet still locked.
  14. Most recent photo first, as I'm writing this from the comfort of the (almost) completed bed! With the original base in position I built a frame around it, a little sturdier than required, but I had the timber already. What appears to be a support at a jaunty angle is in fact positioned to allow for removal of all three tank caps, for cleaning. 10mm ply was used to cover the top, which took a while to get the curves correct for the end section. It all hinges upwards for access, and is propped up by a hinged batten which swings downwards. Gas struts a possible future improvement... Then as a temporary job, I've cut some foam to size, purely so I can camp put in it tonight!
  15. As mentioned elsewhere, I took this down to the FoD last weekend (360 mile round trip), on which it performed surprisingly well. It's probably my least suited vehicle for such a journey, so I can't explain why I was looking forwards to it so much! The only part where I truly questioned my sanity was during a torrential downpour on the M6, sat between trucks - not really wanting to be in the deluge of spray, but equally not wanting to pull into the middle lane! Not sure on fuel consumption, but a comfortable cruising speed seemed to be a sat nav indicated 57-58 mph (45mph on the speedo 😂) without too much distress to my ears. I'd managed to find what seemed to be a half-decent rear door for it too, for £50 including such decadence as a wiper and HRW. After taking the knot wheel to a few bubbles it wasn't quite as good as I hoped though... Obviously I need to repair/replace the bottom rail, but thought it best to hang it first and get everything well aligned before risking scratching a painted door. I ordered up hinges, striker plate etc. plus a few more goodies like these: So today I set about drilling the body and hanging the door. Before: And after: I'm actually pretty pleased with the panel gaps TBH, I was expecting worse! The door didn't come with a lock, so I've fitted a new one, and changed the front two lock barrels to suit (mis-matched locks really bug me). You can buy repair sections of door rail, which is a fairly simple U section pressing, spot-welded onto a closing strip. To try and slow down any rust forming in the seam, I flooded with zinc weld-through primer until it had seeped through. I'm not in a huge rush to do that job, as I'm weighing up whether to replace the skin as well. There's a few drilled holes from its previous life on a Defender, and a couple of pinholes from corrosion. Removing it completely would allow me to do a better job on the frame too. One more minor job was to correct the switch legend on the instrument light switch. As standard, there was no interior light fitted, but I've added one, switched by both the top left switch (as per the Station Wagon variants) but also from a door switch. I managed to find a NOS switch plate with the correct symbol on it - much better!
  16. But if you had the choice between paying 135p/litre, and 60p/litre, with *absolutely* no effect on the way it drove, would you still choose to pay more? I can totally understand it if there was a difference in performance mind, as with the single point systems.
  17. This miffs me slightly, the (IMO not always justified) view that LPG installations are dodgy. Properly done, they can run perfectly well on gas, but I agree that a shonky conversion is enough to put you off. I drove one where you'd switch it to petrol to overtake, as on gas it wouldn't rev high enough to change gear when you floored it!
  18. Well, I say hot and cold running water. All apart from the kitchen sink! The pump maintains a constant pressure of 55psi in the system, so as soon as a tap is opened, it kicks in and water flows. But for some reason the new kitchen tap only allows a trickle, and then stops. It's a UK household tap rather than the original, but I can't see how a mixer tap could differ (or be faulty, on both the hot and cold taps!) I'll have to pull it out, and try it in the house to see if the problem remains. A bit more progress on the bed, as I've used the original sofa bed as a basis for a new fixed bed. I've raised it up 120mm to clear the new water tanks, and all I need to do now is build a framework around the edges and clad it. The whole top section hinges up, for access to the pump and tanks if required. Would have taken me a while to make something like this, plus keeps it original-ish.
  19. I don't know what your difficulty was 😜
  20. For some reason that photo makes me think of the film 'The Human Centipede'. I can't believe nobody has mentioned the Starcraft Cortina yet!
  21. There were a number of problems: Firstly no spark, which was a combination of failed coil and distributor pick-up wired the wrong way round. Once corrected it ran on Easy Start, but didn't want to do this for long obviously. Next problem was that the fuel pump wasn't running (wiring failure somewhere). @Talbot managed to rig up a temporary electrical supply, and once a few gallons was put in the tank, we had fuel pressure at the rail. Injectors were still not firing though, suggesting that either the ECU isn't seeing the ignition pulses, or isn't firing them for some reason, or there's a break in the wiring between ECU and injectors. Need an ECU pin out to diagnose further. But progress of sorts!
  22. I'd like to, but can't make this week. I'm a bit travel-weary as well TBH, after 700 miles in the last 3 days, equally split between the LT and the Series 3. Nether whisper quiet and cosseting...
  23. Landy is still going well - I've made it to Shrewsbury where we are both in need of fuel (pizza for me, E10 for the LR). I have to admit that I hadn't realised LR had carried on the same steering box arrangement to the new Defender. The one which passed me on the M6 appeared to be having even more trouble than I was staying in lane.
  24. It wasn't quite as bad as expected, although 4.5 hours behind the wheel left me glad to arrive when I finally made it. The sudden rainstorm on the M6 was borderline terrifying, sandwiched between two Stobart trucks - do I venture out from my 'safe' 56mph into the middle lane and mingle with those rapidly approaching from behind at 70+mph, or do I stay in the deluge of spray which is being thrown up at me and my single speed tiny wipers? Sorry, no photos. Perhaps by tomorrow my hands will be steady enough to hold a camera.
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