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Everything posted by mat_the_cat

  1. We're probably going to be in Manchester on the Saturday, so this could work out well. Not sure I can persuade her to come to the show, but surely an overnight stop at a pub isn't a bad idea? Oh, fancy seeing you guys here!
  2. I forgot to post up this photo yesterday...towbar coming in handy to collect a log splitter this week. They adjusted the suspension alignment yesterday too, and both camber and toe were out - I think down to the fact that they were adjusted with larger wheels fitted. Ignore the fact the figures are still in red on the lower diagram, that's just because their machine surprisingly did not have the settings stored for a Stellar. If you compare them with the factory settings they are now pretty close to nominal, and well within tolerance. It seems a bit more planted on the road and less affected by rough surfaces, but I may just be imagining that!
  3. My understanding is that the cooling capacity is less, although there are other benefits such as no pressurisation. Pretty sure it's just a matter of airflow though, as on the move at decent speeds, the gauge doesn't budge regardless of load. I've been giving the compressor mounting a lot of thought, and I reckon that instead of mounting in the 'factory' position high up, I'd be better off using the space low down on the block which is normally taken up by a PAS pump. Number of reasons: Should look neater, lower temperature, a shorter belt run, and no worries about bonnet clearance. I've got an idea for a pivoting bracket to allow me to set the tension, but I need a compressor first to start building that. And I'm still not sure on compressor sizing - trade off between power loss and cooling capacity... I've been planning the overall layout (below), which led me to consider the effect that putting a condenser (albeit only 16mm thick) directly in front of my radiator would have! I reckon the single large fan on the rear is slightly better than two small ones on the front, but firstly it's switching in slightly too late, and secondly more airflow will be needed for the AC. So here is the planned circuit and layout: The AC will operate the twin fans in front of the condenser and radiator via a trinary switch on the receiver/drier. (This both stops the compressor functioning at dangerously high and low pressures, but also operates the fans only when the pressure in the AC system demands it). The rear radiator fan will only be operated by coolant temperature. I will replace the existing fan switch (closes at 90 deg C) with a twin contact switch from a BX, as I recall they close one contact at 87 deg C, and the other at 92 deg C. As the engine gets hot, first the rear fan will suck air through, then if the temperature continues to rise, both front fans will switch in. Handily the BX switch has the same M22 x 1.5 thread as the Audi radiator. I'll make a start on the wiring first, as a lot of the bits are considerably cheaper in the States so I may wait to see if the exchange rate improves! I can't find a UK source of the reduced size AC hose anywhere online either. In other news it failed the MOT today for brake imbalance. I think the problem is an oil leak from the rear axle I thought I'd cured New bearing and oil seal didn't stop it so I figured it must be seeping past the bearing outer race, so I sealed that up too. Still there is a leak, so it's either a blocked breather (but why just on that side?) or seeping down the halfshaft and between that and the inner race. New brake shoes on order, so watch this space.
  4. I don't own a Rover 45. I have never owned a Rover 45. I don't ever plan to own a Rover 45. So why do I find myself the proud owner of a Rover 45 condenser? A: Because it was cheap! Rimmer Bros sent a clearance catalogue through the post, as they need to make room for more stock. Some crazy prices in there, so I took advantage. Looks like it should fit too, fortunately. I noticed it came with a frame for mounting cooling fans, which I thought would be a bonus as it's one less thing to worry about. I was pleasantly surprised to see it came with not only the frame, but a pair of fans! Not ideal to be blowing instead of sucking, and will block airflow someone when not turning, but I'll have to see what the overall effect is. In other news I've booked it in for an MOT this Friday - gave them my reg no. over the phone to which the response was: "Hiya mate, how many miles is it up to now?" "Just clicked over 201,000." "It's getting a fair bit of use then!" (4000 miles last year...don't ask about fuel costs!) I'm going to get the suspension alignment checked too, make sure everything is OK. Fingers crossed for the test!
  5. I’d love to have half of their skills and facilities! I’m fairly confident anything I come up with won’t look anywhere near as neat, but also (hopefully) won’t take quite as much time. At the moment I really don’t know, but unless I can find a very compact compressor it will have to extend rearwards over the top of the rocker cover, so quite a bit of leverage on any bracket which fixes to the front of the engine. I’m considering a direct mount compressor (rather than ear mount), as that seems to lend itself better to bracket fabrication. I could maybe use the top of the rocker cover for support too, just to stop flexing. Ear mounting on the left, direct on the right. I'm spending rather an unhealthy amount of time browsing compressor catalogues and specifications! In better news I may have scored a suitable condenser for a VERY good price Just need to wait for it to arrive to see whether it will fit for certain, as I’ve only selected it based on Googled dimensions.
  6. I'm keen to make a start on the AC installation, and one of my first problems was how to attach the compressor to the engine. Not many of the early V8s had AC, so the chances of an original looking bracket appeared slim. After much searching, I seemed to be in luck though. No idea how long this had sat on a shelf! Unfortunately it's massive! Using the original holes on the mount it clashes with the chassis rail, so I think I'll have to resort to a (as yet unknown) plan B. I haven't even got a compressor yet, so maybe I'll find the most compact one I can, and see whereabouts I can place that.
  7. There's also the choice of a waterless coolant like Evans. I've not had first-hand experience of it, but the idea sounds good, especially for a restored car. Basically fit and forget!
  8. A nut insert/rivnut would do the trick! It's a threaded insert which is expanded after you push it through a hole, effectively making a captive nut. I've recently posted up a few pictures how you can install one without shelling out for the special tool, will dig it out. EDIT - Here you go! Although the pictures have shrunk since the forum upgrade. https://autoshite.com/topic/15643-korean-cortina-its-amazing-what-difference-10mm-can-make/?do=findComment&comment=1736189
  9. I've finally fitted the modded 'relay', and wired it in to switch the 3 existing relays. And the big question is, does it work? Yes! It switches the power supply to the fridge... ...the main split charge relay, and as a test I lit the hob before starting the engine. The gas was cut off and the warning buzzer sounded, as intended - all at just above idle speed rather than 3k rpm. Happy days
  10. That's the reason, yes, but it's not a linear relationship between alcohol content and freezing point. Something with an ABV content of 40% would need to be chilled below -23°C, colder than a typical freezer temperature of -18°C.
  11. Another pedant here If we take the definition of ice-cold to mean a temperature at or below 0 degrees C, it is perfectly possible for beer to exist as a liquid, due to the alcohol content lowering the freezing point of the solution (yes, alcohol really *is* a solution!) by roughly 0.4 degC per % ABV.
  12. Would anybody be interested in camping o er at the Shady Oak again? I may not be able to make the show, but the evening before is always good fun.
  13. I've just found out that my best mate has got a pair of tickets to see the Pixies (we're both fans) which he'd bought ages ago and forgotten about! It works out really well for timing too, as although he's 200 miles away, it's the day before (and on the way to) another friend's 40th party near Brighton. A road trip, friends, a gig and a party - sounds like a most excellent weekend coming up
  14. Sorry to sound pedantic, but it's likely to be two relays required rather than just one, unless they've fitted the (rare) type with dual output contacts which are isolated from each other when off. Otherwise there would be a direct path for the fridge to discharge the leisure battery. It's honestly not as complicated as some would have you believe - you can make it so but it doesn't have to be!
  15. There's always improvements to be made...I've just been doing what I enjoy most and playing with the electrics. A bit of a back story: I used to have a voltage sensing relay which then closed the contacts on 3 further relays when the alternator was charging; fridge, a cut-off for the gas solenoid (so I couldn't accidentally drive off with the gas on), and a hefty 100 amp rely for the split charge system. When I fitted the AC I found that when idling for a while, the compressor caused the voltage to fall below the switching threshold for the VSR, causing it to drop out. The voltage then rose, the VSR switched back in again and so on. No good for contact lifespan so I then triggered the relays the 'old-fashioned' way from the charge warning light wire. Now, the LT has always required a blip on the throttle after starting to extinguish the charge light, and so have others who I've spoken to. Only 1000 rpm or so, and has been the same on all alternators so pretty sure it's just a function of the low idle speed. But when I used the charge warning light to trigger the relays, the light would only go out once I hit about 3000 rpm, so usually a while after a cold start due to mechanical sympathy! It took me round 2 years to figure out why , but it's because a small excitation current flows via the light until the alternator voltage becomes high enough for it to become self-exciting. Problem being that the 100A relay's coil has a resistance of 35 ohms (plus the smaller relays), so the voltage is dragged down as there is a significant path to earth via the relay coils. So, I wanted to sort this. I reckon a simple MOSFET switch circuit should do the job, and I had all the bits to do the job. The only N-channel MOSFETs I had have a fairly high 'on' resistance of around half an ohm, but it will only have to carry half an amp so heat won't be a problem. I gutted the case of a cheap relay to provide a suitable enclosure, and wired it up. I've added an LED (with built-in series resistor) to show that it's working (or not!). I still need to add a protection diode across the relay coil, but hopefully this should do the trick of switching on the relays whilst drawing effectively zero current.
  16. If you have a misfire, on the next combustion stroke you have potentially more fuel in the cylinder (some will be expelled on the exhaust stroke but without an explosion, gas flow will be slower) so could cause the appearance of a rich mixture. Haven't forgotten about your headlights BTW! Just need to package them. A higher than desirable idle speed when the actuator kicks in (for drive/reverse or AC) is likely to be an air leak in the associated pipework, only becoming a factor when the valve is open. Creak could be rear arm bearings?
  17. Well, the van has decided to reward the present of a nice new gauge by throwing in the charge warning light I suppose at least it's waited until we are safely back home though. It's a strange one - comes on when you reach 2-3k rpm sometimes, but if you drop the clutch while you're moving, allow the engine to drop to idle, then release the pedal quickly to raise the revs, it'll go back out again! Then may not come on for half an hour or so, no matter what revs you do. Classic brush problems I'd thought, so changed those (along with the regulator, as that was quicker than doing the brushes alone). Still exactly the same. Given that this was a new alternator brought purely on price, and has given me no end of trouble - I've already replaced the brushes, regulator and bearings on separate occasions in 50k miles, I threw in the towel for a hopefully decent remanufactured Bosch unit. I'm getting very wary of fake parts nowadays, so avoided eBay to minimise the risk. Happily the box seemed to indicate a genuine part, and when I checked on the Bosch website it all checked out OK. Fitting it was fairly straightforward although I had to swap over the pulley to get the belt alignment correct. Now charging well again, and hopefully peace of mind for the foreseeable future.
  18. Possibly! Just realised I didn't mention the handling - I won't lie and say it's turned it into a great handling car, but it does at least feel safe now, and more like how I remembered it. Previously I think that the offset was exaggerating the effect that the scrub radius was having on reducing the steering effort, so (in the wet especially) the steering could go unexpectedly light as you were cornering, robbing you of feedback about the grip levels.
  19. Fortunately that tankful seems to have been down to an unusually full fill-up, as the next one was 33mpg which seems equally doubtful! Another 400 miles to and from FOTU covered in quite warm temperatures, and what is the verdict on the fan mods? Well, going on the gauge the temperature still rises to a similar position, but the fan is on for less of the time - i.e. it actually switches off in traffic so the measured temperature must be dropping, even if not shown by the gauge. Previously, I'd be sat there with the fans running most of the time, rarely dropping out, which was a worry. If I turn the fan on manually with the AC switch, the temperature sits about halfway on the gauge, which gives me more confidence. I could mess around with the 'on' temperature, but I don't think it's rising enough to be of concern. Plus there is cooling capacity in reserve should I need it. The other change I've now made is the addition of some Water Wetter, thanks to Tadhg Tiogar No chance to determine any difference, as the way back home was both traffic-free and cooler. I will report back if I see a lower reading on the gauge, although if it does aid heat transfer it will also improve the transfer to the temperature sender! I quite like the photo that was taken of me leaving the show - might be biased but think the car actually appears almost good-looking from this angle.
  20. Use the resistance setting on your multimeter (although there may also be a setting which beeps when you touch the two probes together). Unplug the pressure switch from the car loom - yes, the dome with wires on the R/D. Terminals 1 and 2 there should be close to zero resistance between them IF the system pressure is OK. Terminals 3 and 4 there should be infinite resistance between them unless the system pressure rises too high. My suspicion is that there will be infinite resistance between all terminals though...
  21. I'm making the assumption that the logic behind the AC operation is the same as the Mk2 circuit I'm familiar with, but if so the rad fans will not operate with the AC if the system is not functional, for example if the system is low on pressure. Unlikely, but not impossible to be a failed relay - almost certainly to be lack of pressure at this age. Again assuming same as Mk2, you should be able to check continuity at the pressure switch on the receiver drier to see whether this is the problem. Ventilation flaps can seize given their position, but I've seen the switch contacts be the problem also. Check for a voltage at the recirc motors which should change polarity when you move the switch. Lastly, if you need RHD headlights, I have them coming out of my ears! You are welcome to a pair to free up some space!
  22. Ah, I've never had any trouble. I was just pointing out that simply refilling with R134A requires a change of oil - whether that be to R134A compatible PAG oil, or the universal POE oil I think you're referring to? Whether in the real world you can get away with not doing so,I don't know as I've not heard of anyone trying it... Obviously it's no big deal to change the oil once the system is removed, but I'd suggest you may as well change the O rings for R134A compatible ones while the system is apart! In all likelihood there'll be no need to empty the R12 (if you can find someone with R12 recovery kit) as it will probably have all escaped by now. But I'd advise getting it checked for leaks so you know whether you need to replace any parts before installation. The Mk2 BX has the shell already modified to be AC ready - you just have to remove grommets and blanking panels so I had it easier than you
  23. You may be able to 'get away' with R134A, but it's not just the seals which aren't compatible, but the oil in the compressor too. Not sure why you'd want to risk it, when there are drop-in replacements for R12 easily available: http://www.refsols.com/RS-24_p1.html
  24. And, looking on the bright side I'm sure you'll get better mpg...
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