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mat_the_cat

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Everything posted by mat_the_cat

  1. Not mine, but I admire the planning (and luck) which went into this!
  2. Interesting stuff, and bears out what I've found on the products I've also used. With the Zinga, you can leave the brush to go hard, and after immersion in the tin for a while it will go soft again as the solvents go to work. I've also found that it hardens after 'weathering', but generally use it as a base coat before further protection.
  3. I certainly hope it doesn't need work, but we'll find out when I take a bearing cap off! It'd be daft not to replace the shells unless they are unworn.
  4. I'm hopeful, seeing as the engine ran quietly and smoothly, that any wear will be minimal. If you catch things in time, and it's been well looked after (and all the signs are that it has), you're less likely to have damaged the crank. If something's been worn out for ages, chances are that some of the wear particles will embed themselves into the bearing shells and score the crank.
  5. Switching to the transfer box now - I've got the rebuild kit for it, but struggled to find anyone listing it with the intermediate gear thrust washers...apparently stocks are exhausted. https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/series-3-lt76-overhaul-kit-transfer-box-minus-2-x-thrust-washers/ https://www.glfclassics.co.uk/ourshop/prod_7074185-LT76-Transfer-Box-Full-Rebuild-Kit-1965.html https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/gearbox/lt76tbk-overhaul-kit-lt76-transfer-box/ This was a potential problem, as mine looked noticeably worn. Closer inspection, and you can see a step in them. The only option I found was some stupidly expensive (for what they are) NOS parts, so bit the bullet. I did consider getting some machined up, but they're not bronze all the way through, being steel-backed so not a simple job. When they arrived I realised that my originals weren't quite as bad as I thought, as there is a slight step by design. I could have probably taken out the excess float with shims, but hey ho. These sit either side of the transfer case... ...and support the intermediate gear, here temporarily refitted to check for clearance. Note that I've (deliberately) fitted it the wrong way round, as I wanted to be able to spin it to check smoothness, without it meshing with the output shaft gears. I have to remove it anyway to reattach the main gearbox, as a few of the nuts are obscured by it. This was all good, so next I took a look at the engine oil leak. Clutch and flywheel off, and yes, that's pretty conclusive! The clutch is fairly worn too, so the shopping list is growing
  6. Is there any way to see the previous keeper's details any more? Swallow Crescent was the address, and the date fits with when we moved in!
  7. Well bought sir! I almost ended up with one of these by accident, as we viewed a house in 2003 which had clearly been owned by someone elderly, and hadn't been touched decor-wise since the 80s. In the garage was a 25 Monaco, and I recall asking the estate agent whether we'd get the house as-is, or whether there was still some clearing out to be done. The answer was basically as we saw it, but sadly when we moved in they'd taken the car (and left us some rather questionable furniture!) Given that this was in Gloucestershire, I just wonder if it's the same car. Surely there can't have been huge numbers left in 2003.
  8. I measured the length of the new bush, then gave it a light rub with 240 grit wet and dry on a flat surface. I did this in a figure of 8 pattern, to try and avoid putting any tilt into it. After only 3 passes it was down to size, so the next stage was to check the end float between bush and thrust washer (you'll have to imagine the snap ring holding down the thrust washer in this photo!) Spec for this is 1 to 8 thou, and I'm measuring 10. If I'd left the bush as-is, it'd have been (just about) OK, but right at the limit of acceptability. To reduce this down you have to change the upper and lower thrust washers, which are available in a range of thicknesses for selective assembly. So I'm waiting for these to arrive, but what has arrived is a new 3rd/4th gear synchro assembly. This is quite pricy from Land Rover suppliers, so I did a bit of research and found that it was also fitted to Rover P4 gearboxes, under a now superceded part number. It turned out that JR Wadhams had a few of these as new old stock parts rather than modern reproductions (which may be perfectly OK, I've certainly not read of problems with them). But these were half the typical price of those listed under the LR part number, and don't come in a blue box I can't fit any more until the main shaft is finished, so it's currently sat on the coffee table looking pretty! Less good news is the engine. It looks like I need to change the rear main seal, but on the earlier 3 main bearing engines this is a bit of a ballache. Instead of a conventional lip seal pressed in from the rear, this is a split seal which you have to drop the sump and rear bearing cap to change. And I'm thinking unless the bearing shell looks pristine, I can hardly put a worn bearing back in place... Did someone say mission creep?
  9. I had a small package of parts arrive, so set about changing the rear output seal. Greased it up to help it slide in. Then used a 52mm socket, bolt and piece of plywood to draw it into place. This done I could fit it to the back of the transfer box - first are the shims to preload the output shaft bearings, massive taper roller jobs. Then the housing can go on. Also arrived was a new shim and circlip for the input shaft. Zero play was achieved, but not too tight that I couldn't move the shim by hand. Another arrival was the layshaft distance piece, next to the old one which wasn't thick enough with the new bearing. I temporarily refitted the layshaft into the gearbox... ...and attached the bellhousing. The idea is that there should be minimal end float of the layshaft, but more than none. If there is zero movement, it means the rear layshaft roller bearing has bound up. You can't check this with the mainshaft in place, hence the temporary partial reassembly. Next step is the mainshaft, specifically the bastard lockring, tucked down below 3rd gear synchro. I bought some flat lockring pliers, and modified them to fit in the gap. Now although they would fit, they wouldn't open wide enough to get the ring out of the grooves. So I managed to tease it open a little with a screwdriver, and hold it open with drill bits down the splines. And it's off, finally! Notice that this has obviously been apart before, and clamped in a vice It's not damaged the friction surface, but still... With the gears removed, this is the bush which supports them. It often breaks up and/or shears off the pin locking it to the shaft, but the only problem in my case is some light wear. Now comes the fettling of the new bush. It's put into place with 2nd and 3rd gears, and weighted down with some old bearings (using the old bush as a spacer) so I can check the clearance. Spec. is 4 to 7 thou, and I'm measuring between 5 and 6. I could assemble as is, but I'd prefer to get it as tight as possible. So I'll take the new bush out and remove a bit of material until it's at the lower end.
  10. Tonight I finished off the 4x4 selector box, ready for fitting to the transfer box. The dog on the left links the front and rear output shafts to select 4wd. The shaft which operates this is spring-loaded, so that when a pin is lifted (pushing the yellow lever down), 4wd in normal high ratio is engaged. The upper shaft is linked to the high/low gear selector in the transfer box, so that whenever low ratio is selected, 4wd is also engaged. All this selection mechanism is lubricated by an oil slinger, so no appreciable wear. The 4wd selector box was slid onto the front of the transfer box, and the low ratio 4wd selector shaft slid into the selector fork. I replaced the seal at the end of this shaft, and also the small O ring on the pin which allows high ratio 4wd to be engaged. There is a little bit of rusting on the ends of the shafts, but I've smoothed this off and greased them. Finally, the dust cover was fitted over the ends of the shaft.
  11. Hmmm. It wouldn't totally surprise me if I'd managed to lose the odd washer, but I needed to temporarily refit the layshaft, to check the end float, and could I find it? No! I figured that it was probably more important than a missing washer, and I eventually remembered where I'd placed it for safekeeping. I fitted it in the gearbox, and there was too much movement fore and aft. I've got a 0.405" spacer currently, so will try the next size up, 0.425". The input shaft also needs a thicker spacer, as there's about 10 thou float where I need none. Spacer is 0.19mm, so a 2.15mm one should do nicely. I've replaced the front output bearing in the 4x4 selector housing... ...followed by the seal. The rear output seal fits into the speedo drive housing, and has clearly been previously fitted with care and attention. Unfortunately I then promptly did a similar job, so will have to order a new seal I did however re-seal the speedo drive..new O ring, lip seal and gasket. I've had a look at the mainshaft, and identified some wear in the 2nd/3rd gear bush. There's between 14 and 16 thou clearance versus a maximum of 7, so I hope I should notice a difference once replaced.
  12. Or (depending on how well it goes) confirms that you should get a specialist to do it So far though, it's all been pretty straightforward engineering, and you can see how it's all supposed to work which is useful. I was a bit worried initially about whether it would all go back together in the right order, but I'm trying to be methodical about it.
  13. After a bit of research I've established that there is a fair amount of clearance by design in this bearing, which probably means the original was reasonably OK. This video shows a similar level of float, which backs up what I've read elsewhere. The only slight question mark is over why the new bearing is noisier than the old, when rotated by hand. I think I'll make an assessment when it's bolted back together. So, only to the mainshaft rear bearing. This is in a separate housing, which is held in by Loctite, and a circlip. With the aid of heat, the housing was removed and cleared up ready for the new bearing. Bearing in and secured. I then needed to warm up the gearbox housing, to push the bearing housing back in. Again, this is loctited in, partly to prevent oil leakage. Bearing housing in place, and circlip securing it. The seal is a metal cased type, which I've known to seep oil between seal and housing, so I've used a thin smear of sealant to help prevent this. That's now all the bearings fitted to the gearbox, so the next stage is to strip down the mainshaft, and replace the synchro rings. I found further proof that this is likely to be the same age as I am, with a gearbox casting date of October '78.
  14. I was going to say, today was a lot better weather! You were staying about 5 miles away from us so I should have recognised that one
  15. I recognise those spots...Llyn Celyn, dunno, Llyn Tegid x2 from your photos in order 😂 Are you still up here?
  16. Good question - I just don't know. I don't know what clearance the bearing is designed to have so may well be acceptable. It's more the fact that it doesn't feel as smooth as the layshaft bearing beneath it. I actually have to temporarily attach the layshaft to it, to check for end float so I can do a similar video.
  17. I realise that I have forgotten to fit the housing retaining studs, but I'm not happy with the input shaft bearing. The play seems just the same as the original bearing, but noisier! I've dribbled a bit of EP90 in there, but still sounds rough to me. I've replaced the layshaft rear bearing and corresponding race in the gearbox housing: Also the reverse gear gate springs (one had already broken). I've started to inspect bits for wear - all gears look really good: The rebuild kit came with 1st and 2nd gear synchro rings, so I'll replace those anyway, but the 3rd and 4th synchromesh is all one assembly, and another £200 or so. So I was keen to see what that was like. 4th gear looks good... ...but 3rd doesn't ☹️ That may explain why it was fairly easy to beat the synchromesh on changes to 3rd. Question is, am I expecting too much? It was perfectly drivable, just not driving perfectly. I've reached a bit of a delay anyway as my circlip pliers aren't big enough to remove the rear mainshaft bearing housing, plus the uncertainty over the input shaft bearing.
  18. What made you realise there was a problem, if it was still shifting ok? I think one of mine must have been broken for a while, and when the second failed it caused the two parts of the synchro assembly to become decentralised, and bind up to prevent gear engagement. I've made a little more progress today, as I split the transfer box from the main 'box and stripped the gearbox down to the casing. To separate the two, you first have to pull the transfer box intermediate shaft out and remove the intermediate gears to access two of the fixing nuts. The shaft was fairly tight, and required a spot of heat before prying it out. I cleaned up the bellhousing, as it looks like the engine real main seal was leaking into it. Once clean I replaced the layshaft front bearing... ...held in place with a spacer plate... ...and then the input shaft bearing. Spot the mistake! Fortunately not a disaster though.
  19. As luck would have it a friend of mine, who's rebuilt a few of these boxes, was in the area and very kindly agreed to give me a hand today. I'd only got to the stage of removing the seat box, so this morning we lifted the gearbox out. Then set to stripping it down. It turned out it wasn't actually a problem with the selectors, but a spring was broken (and another missing) on the 3rd/4th gear synchro assembly. The one at the 5 o'clock position is still intact, the one at the top has broken and shifted round 90 degrees, and the third one is missing completely, and must have dropped out during a previous to me oil change. But the good news is no gear damage and negligible wear, and even most of the bearings are reasonably OK. So nothing to suggest a hard life. Partially apart now, and ready for bits to be cleaned. Many thanks to @Talbot for assistance, advice and good company.
  20. North Wales. My (and other's) thoughts are earlier on in the thread, if that helps you one way or another. But happy to give you a ride if our paths cross. That's on the way - I've read that you can make do with a chisel, but should imagine that makes it rather difficult to torque up correctly!
  21. This may well be just a selector problem, but for reliability/peace of mind etc I've decided to rebuild the gearbox. It's not something I've done before, but is apparently a good 'box to learn on, and hopefully should be a good deal quieter afterwards. This should be everything which I need: A little bit of man maths came into play, and I figured that if I'm taking the whole transmission out, I may as well do the transfer box at the same time, and it worked out slightly cheaper to get the kit for that at the same time... I've made a start on the removal this evening, and taken the floor up. The seat box is ready to remove, but I need an assistant for that so will have to wait until tomorrow. I'm pleased that all fixings came undone very easily, which is a most uncharacteristic Land Rover experience!
  22. A Defender dashboard, albeit one with a few extra switches. On my way back from off-road training today in this. Surprisingly capable, despite 5 people plus kit.
  23. I ended up getting a refund from the supplier, so that's one bit of good news. Unfortunately, that's overshadowed by what happened this afternoon. Driving along in 4th, slow down for a junction and I can't get 3rd. Drop it into 2nd, turn into the junction and go for 3rd again. Bugger. No chance. Oh well, I'll go straight for 4th. Nope! Still the same when stationary, engine on or off. Now, I know the gearbox is a bit whiney, and after sampling @Crackers's 'box, I realised that it could be a lot slicker to shift. But it looks like a gearbox rebuild is on the cards sooner than I anticipated! It's looking like around a grand for a reconditioned gearbox, versus £200 for parts only to do both gearbox and transfer box. So I guess that's the road I'll be going down.
  24. Interesting site, thanks. Are they related to Brickwerks do you know? I.e. next door, with a very similar website!
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