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danthecapriman

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About danthecapriman

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    Rank: Lancia Gamma

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    Waterlooville, Hampshire

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    England

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  1. I live darn sarf and I’m nice(ish)! Though I am technically from Yorkshire. And don’t forget, there’s a very big very green car down here you can come play with if you want since your coming down here! That alone should make up fo it!
  2. Great stuff, pic of the bunch for me though has to be that Caprice wagon. What a monster! Glad it’s staying like that too.
  3. Brilliant! Please do keep putting these up. The background cars and day to day stuff is just as nice to look at nowadays too. I love that AMC Gremlin, cool as fuck!
  4. Looks like it’s been sat on by an elephant! I may be wrong, but do those yellow hazard stickers mean there might be traces of body fluids etc inside? If that’s what they are I wouldn’t want the interior!
  5. I think it can reduce the chances of it but I think it’s still up to a sympathetic and skilled operator to do the job in a way that keeps the heat to a minimum. Apparently it doesn’t take a great deal to cause distortion, especially on large flat sheets of thin metal. The guy I used to do my bodywork said most people wouldn’t have noticed any distortion whatsoever in mine... until you put the paint on! Once that’s on it will show any unevenness and it’ll stand out a mile off as the reflection of the light etc shows it up. I’m definitely no expert though! I’ve only done a bare metal resto once and suffered a slight issue through the blasting. As ever, it’s very much down to finding the right firm/person to do the job properly. On mine I don’t think I did particularly, though the damage was minimal and they were thorough with getting all of the rust and crap off the car so it wasn’t all bad. It’s just one of those things I suppose.
  6. I’ve never used dipping, but I had my Capri (panels and shell) blasted. It’s very good as it literally gets through everything and reveals all, but I’d be extremely careful with blasting - it can lead to heat build up, particularly on large flat panels which can warp them! This happened to my bonnet and roof skin through the blaster Not being great. It can be fixed, as mine was, but it introduces another problem you then need to fix. Dipping will be gentler but just remember that it gets into every single nook and cranny so you will need to make absolutely sure the car gets painted and it’s cavities, seams etc etc properly protected after the dipping and repairs are finished otherwise it will rot out again in quick order! Often they can dip the repaired shell and panels again afterwards in epoxy primer etc so all the inside faces, box sections etc get covered. I think dipping is the more expensive of the two.
  7. Jesus! That head was well on there wasn’t it! Good vid that... although, that car shouldn’t have a Pinto...
  8. Haha! Look what Ive got! Oh yes! A matched pair of the door mirrors of my dreams. The left hand one came from Germany, as I mentioned in a previous post, but the right hand one was a bit of a gamble. I spotted it online, advertised as a left hand mirror. The pics weren’t too easy to make out but it looked different to my left hand one from Germany and the part number was one digit different, so despite the seller advertising it as a left hand I had a good idea it might actually be the elusive right hand one. I took a chance and bought it. I’m well happy that little gamble payed off! And they’re both new old stock, still even boxed. Also got a new old stock oil filler cap as mines damaged. The top cap part keeps popping off.
  9. Top job fellas! Im glad my old alternator came in useful for this, I’m also glad that delightful old Lucas end cap lived to be reused! I don’t know why but I also find things like that nice to keep, it’s a nice little detail that the newer parts lack. great work on the other bits too, getting things clean & tidy makes all the difference.
  10. ...Which was a pain in the arse in the end! I got it out of the box it's been sat in for 3 years and checked it over. It’s in surprisingly good shape, clean, minimal damage and the old tape is still soft and flexible. So I’ve decided to save myself some work and just use it as it is. There’s a soldered connector to a bulb holder that needs resoldering and a couple of other connectors that might need replacing. Also, there’s a bit of shit wiring to replace on the spur for the radio, the radio being a later addition (this car wouldn’t of had a radio new!). This should be easy with the loom fitted though. First was to have a look at things and see how best to tackle this job. Annoyingly, the loom has been sat in the box for so long it’s lost it’s shape a bit, which made refitting it more difficult as I can’t remember exactly how it was routed around the dash frame. Also, the two cable ties holding the steering column in place were right in my way so I decided to cut these off and fit the pedal box which has a clamp for the column on it. Once that was in place the pedal box and steering column shouldn’t need touching again. This is how it looked to start. Heres the pedal box back in place with the steering column bolted back to it. This job was actually a bastard! Space is tight and it wasn’t helped by the sun being right in my eyes all afternoon while laying on my back with my head up in the footwell trying to bolt it back in. There’s six bolts to hold it in, two are through the dash frame, two go up through the bulkhead next to the fuse box, and the final two? They go through the bulkhead... right behind the sodding servo!! So that had to come back out again to get access! Annoying but I should have known that really. It’s in now though and the steering column is bolted to it so that’s that sorted. Wiring loom thrown back into the car ready. And the loom ‘hung’ sort of in the right place! It’ll need a fair bit of adjustment and messing with later to get a good fit but I don’t think I’ll be able to do that until the shell of the dashboard is back in place, as then I can see how/where things are supposed to go. While I was under the dash I took a couple of pics of the metal work under there. You can just see where the welding had to be done to fix the rotten front scuttle panel ends and screen surrounds. Very solid and clean now though! I’ll be splashing a bit of wax up here in the near future though just in case. This is the area where the cabin loom and engine bay looms pass through the bulkhead and connect together (two round holes) and where the cabin loom connects to the fuse box from underneath (rectangular hole). There’s not a great deal of space under here though... That’s as far as I got today on the car itself. I’ve stripped the air filter box though this afternoon, cleaned it all and used trim shine to buff it up a bit. The metal end has been stripped to bare metal and painted in black VHT paint too.
  11. Haven’t had as much time as I thought I was going to, but I’ve made more progress. A few more bits and bobs done around the front end. First up was the horn, by no means an essential job at this stage but I bought the new part so got it fitted regardless. The original. It sort of works but it’s rotten and vibrates like hell! And the new one fitted. It’s a NOS item, for a mk3 really but in the absence of a new mk2 part it’s good enough for me! It sits in the gap behind the grill next to the headlight bowl, I had to remove a patch of paint for it under the mounting tab as it’s earth, again I’ve put a thin dab of conductive grease in to prevent corrosion in future. I could have got some generic replacement horn, they’re cheap enough but that’s the problem! They’re so cheap I can’t imagine they’re any good and won’t last very long. At least a genuine old stock part is what it should use, it’ll fit properly and it’s going to last. Also got the last of the heater hoses made up. I needed a new moulded hose to go between the heater and inlet manifold. Where the hose has to run behind the engine is quite tight so a moulded purpose made hose will look and fit better. Unfortunately the one you can still get new is for cars with an auto choke, mine is manual. This means the carb/manifold end of the new hose is both the wrong shape and too short. Luckily I had a plan B! I’ve bought the hose, cut off the end of it I don’t need (keeping the shaped bit for behind the engine), my car was fitted with an in-line bleed valve which it’s managed to retain so this means I can use that to join hoses together. The other half of the hose is just a length of generic heater hose cut to length. It all fits well but the bleed valve is currently sat in a tub of rust remover so I’ll fit that to finish the job once it’s been painted. There’s two clamps to fit here too which should hold the hoses in place and stop any movement. Next job was definitely not needed yet, but I wanted to do it just to see what it looks like! The grill!! It’s the one that came off the car but I’ve cleaned it up and put some trim shine on it. All the clips and screws are new. Next up, the wiring loom...
  12. Good to see progress on this, it’s looking great!
  13. Hopefully! I was looking at the boxes of parts still to go back on today and there really isn’t that much of it. Granted, the interior isn’t with all the boxes but that’s all big parts that go in quickly. The time consuming bit is ensuring everything is clean, painted and fit for re-use. Just been shopping to! New horn - check. Genuine Ford item, never used. For a mk3 really but it’s good enough! also ordered a pair of shaped heater to manifold/carb hoses. The one I've got isn’t shaped, it’s just a length of generic hose cut to size. So the shaped ones will look better. And I’ve got another of the chrome wheel centre caps off eBay, new old stock again but it’s mint!
  14. Nice, it looks 100% better! Fingers crossed it doesn’t start to leak!
  15. Cheers guys! I only intend to do this once... might aswell do it right! I got the front grill fixings (new) fitted earlier and decided to trial fit the grill. I know stuff like that is one of the things you’re meant to do last but I couldn’t help myself! It’s amazing how you can add something like that and all of a sudden it looks like what it’s supposed to be! The grill of course is filthy and in desperate need of a thorough clean up but it still looked great. Also dug the horn out, as that can be fitted soon before the grill and headlights go back on. The horn looks like absolute shit! It’s very rusty and dirty but I thought I’d test it and at least see. Hooked it up onto the Volvo’s battery and... it sounds shit too! It seems to vibrate more than make noise, and bits of rust fall out of it when it does. I’ll find a new one I think.
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