The Moog Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 So last night Scruff dropped off the Triumph. Was a bit of a struggle as the OSR brake decided to stick on, but he managed to deposit it safely.First thing this morning i pumped up tyres which makes it look less like it has been dumped.Neighbours have already madenoises - ladies are horrified, men are pretty impressed First issue is that i need to fit a coil to try and get it running under its own steam to put it in the garage. HBOL doesn't cover itSo how do i wire it in? michael t, M'coli, ProgRocker and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 It must be in the HBOL, in the wiring diagram. There's only 2 wires, one leading to the dizzy and one coming from the ignition switch. I can't remember which way round they go but you can't do any harm if you get em back to front. It'll defo be in the wiring diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worldofceri Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Looks great. I like these a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squire_Dawson Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Make sure the coil is non-ballast/ballast as specified, and has the correct end (push in or screw-in king lead?). Some of them have a terminal marked 'CB' which goes to the dizzy. They are very nice cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooters Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Coil should be fine I sourced a specific one. Negative to battery and switch positive to points and condenser. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HillmanImp Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Does this help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 It does cheers. Now started pissing down so will have to wait until later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Have few more pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HillmanImp Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Ah, I see you have that odd metal on Triumphs that cracks. My GT6's sills were made of that. I pointed it out to the seller who said 'No I welded it for its MOT, but I am not very good at welding'. Too right you are no good at welding, you can't even tell the difference between a mig welder and a tin of Isopon. I bought it anyhow, obviously. Vince70, Cavcraft, AnthonyG and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedSparrow Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Lovely. One of the best looking cars ever made IMO. Cavcraft, brickwall, aldo135 and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aldo135 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Good luck with it mate. I'm another big fan of the 2000s and have had a couple of mk1s in the past. Sent from my Hoose Phone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddyramrod Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 I've always fancied one of these, but never managed more than the odd passenger ride, and even those were over 30 years ago. Best of luck with it, they look lovely all brightened up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Excellent. Looks like Honeysuckle colour-wise. Wings for these ar bloody pricey though. Good purchase! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavcraft Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Brilliant, haven't seen one in a while which is a shame as they are fine looking things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inspector Morose Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 They're wonderful machines, if a bit under geared. I've had two (both mk2s) and loved them both. I worked with a chap who worked on the PI fuel distribution pumps when they were current (it was a glorified Lucas DPA as seen on many a XUD and leyland leopard) and we worked a way of reducing the fuelling to make a 2000 PI version, all built were 2500s. The main problem, he told me, with the 2500 PI apart from the comedy supply pump was fuel starvation due to cavitation in the distribution pump. The cure? A 1.5mm hole drilled in the rotor to let the air bubbles move out the way.Still to this day, I've never a more lovely sounding car than those. michael t 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Prob too late but if coil terminals are numbered its 15 to ign switch and 1 to the points Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squire_Dawson Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Wasn't the big problem on the Injected models not so much the design, which I believe was rather good, but the fact that they used essentially a wiper-motor to drive the pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inspector Morose Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Yup, that was the main issue. The totally inadequate motor overheated and failed with great regularity. The other issue was akin to fuel starvation and poor starting symptoms. DPAs hate air in the lines. If you've ever run a Lucas CAV pumped diesel out of fuel, they can be a right bastard to bleed and get going again (cue hundreds of people on here saying that they've never had a problem - oh well, I can only go on my own experience) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Due to miserable weather i have been wading through the box of documents that come with it. One little green book a PO has written notes about everything. Sample quote - car stopped four miles south of Chipping Norton. Diagnosis hairline crack in rotor arm. Also some period adverts Squire_Dawson and brickwall 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Win! That looks very fine (er, especially from a distance). Looking forward to a Ratdat-style fettling saga. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooters Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 I bought it from a chap near Sedburgh in spring 2012 and ran it as my daily for 8 months. Had to mothball due to rust when mot time came up. Plan was to restore it in business but a change in market focus made it redundant. I'm glad Will has taken it in as it is a very nice car to drive and the straight six with the overdrive is a wonderful engine in good condition. I prefer the twin carb 2000 to the 2500 it just feels a bit more elegant on the road...just personal preference. Anyway best of luck with it Will Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudsprint Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 One of those rare cars that was better for its styling update and looked just as good in estate version. Twiggy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Put the battery on charge tonight and fitted the coil. Ordered set of spark plugs and leads as well as an acu spark because I am not used to points. Cleaned out fuel filter, it was only a little gunky. I need to get the car running to lob it in the garage and out of the way. Had a small poke at sills and it showered orange. Drivers side outer one is split to about half way down. All the ends of the sills are pretty much missing. At the moment it feels like a pretty big task. Currently looking for a days welding intro course so i can learn. Once I get it into the garage i will do some photos for you all. One question i had is whether i should be saving my pennies for replacement sills? Or is there cheaper way to fix them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Be very interested to see how you get on finding and doing a day's welding course. I had a look down here and couldn't find anything less than a two year NVQ thingy, but surely that can't be right. Otherwise we could just go and camp out on Philibusmo's drive one sunny afternoon while he tackles the rear wings on the Y10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Found a couple. One is in Dorset in the rural skills place which would mean a very long day http://www.dorsetruralskills.co.uk/courses/welding.htm Saying that is someone from AS wanted to a basic how to weld course would happily put a nice chunk towards their beer fund Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HillmanImp Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 You really don't need a course, just practice on a few bits of metal. Make sure the surfaces are clean and learn what the good sizzle sounds like. It will take a few attempts but am sure you can probably get a pretty good Youtube tutorial. Bobthebeard and Grundig 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cort16 Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Get A good welder too. My welder snags all the time, which makes getting a good seam going difficult and it makes me want to hit it with an axe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooters Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I'd go replacement on the sills and patch the floors. The sills would be tricky to fabricate having worked on Bills ones it is the one panel I would definitely buy.. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bren Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I would do a course just so somebody more experienced can tell you where you are going wrong - please bear in mind it used to take 3 years to serve your time as a welder. You can practice in terms of patching etc. however you may need more than that if you want to replace the sills - you want it to look tidy and you dont want a call from the tester to say your new sills have come adrift! Many moons ago a local SD1 club member fitted a new wing to his SD1 despite having no experience welding and being advised not to - he thought he had done a good job until a set of ladders fell on it and the wing came off. Do a short course and you won't look back. Inspector Morose 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince70 Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I hope it all works out for you welding up the old girl mine needed new inner and out sills plus repairs to the floors back in 1987 (it looked solid on top apart from the front wheel arches) and it was hard back then when the car was 12 years old to find solid metal underneath. Also I remember the front wheel arches on mine had been gobbed up badly and I looked at buying new wings but the price was a kings ransom but there were repair arches available but I don't know if you can still get them. There's not a saloon car that looks as good as the Triumph 2000/2500 and the straight 6 engine sounds fantastic and I always wanted a 2500s (never the pi) in burgundy with the stag type alloys and a gold laurel on the bonnet This and the rover P6 were in my opinion were the best looking saloons of the 70s back in the day.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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