Squire_Dawson

Now that is just begging for a stupid German Diesel engine conversion. Not.

Only the British disparage and rubbish their own country’s achievements and heritage.

Manchester Shitty Cuntcil have deliberately created congestion by fucking up the city centre and its roads to justify this. They don't give a flying fuck about pollution - only how much money they can extract from it. I agree that vehicle useage should be decreased but quite the opposite is being promoted. Government sponsored new 'homes' where fields used to be, requiring car use anyone? Oh yes. The constant dumbing down and stupefying of the Great British Public has the already fabulously rich and corrupt shits laughing all the way to the bank.

I killed two birds with one stone, as it were. Approximately 550 miles covered in Allegro t'other day, down and up the Kingdom, a most successful raid. Keeping up with and exceeding modern traffic, a steady 60-70 and over 40 to the gallon. Not bad for a 46 year old Aggro eh? The only downside was the imbecilic clots on the radio none of whom I wanted to hear, and Classic FM doesn't always do it. Ah well, I made it there and back in safety.

I would give you good money for that little lamp above the yellow one - it is properly a car reversing lamp.

You’re massively overthinking this. Throw that spaghetti away along with everything else that wasn’t fitted at the factory and forget all about it. Assuming you got the new loom from Autosparks and it is definitely the correct version, all you need is the correct Lucas wiring diagram. Wires are colour coded for good reason. If not already done, tin any bare wire ends. Start in the engine bay by feeding the panel branch through the bulkhead, then loosely fit it up in the engine bay. The wire run will be easy to see as there will be flexible tabs to hold it in place. Once the entire loom has been loosely fitted to the car having been threaded through and behind what it needs to, start making the connections starting at the control box. Fit new bullet connector sleeves wherever you encounter them (also shown on the wiring diagram usually with their location).

How upsetting. That's just another reason why I won't ever pay for a T.V. Licence.

The fuck is there to recommission? Kick the tyres, light the fires and off you bloody go.

Interior clean, looks sound enough so GIB, FFS. Should be a lift pump, not electronic bodge job.

Conrad Conelrad and I had a splendid Drive It Day on the LAC St. George's Day Rally. There was a good turnout of various cars.

Always via the relay. It was a late 1940's car upgraded gradually over the years. The 1000 model we are concerned with employed two types of indicator switches. The first from the 1000's introduction in 1956 until 1959 was a combined horn and trafficator switch which received a lot of criticism, so it was replaced with the now familiar green (or early orange) illuminated stalk operating trafficators/indicators only, and the horn push was moved to the centre of the steering wheel. Then the trafficators were dispensed with and the American system adopted (already used for many years on export Minors). The Home wiring loom changed to accommodate the DB10 relay which works very well. Finally, in 1964 the American system was replaced with amber indicators front and rear along with many other detail changes to the car. A 1959 model would originally have employed trafficators but knowing what switch it had originally is harder to tell as owners changed things over the years. If there is an Indicator tell-tale light on the speedometer, or the horn push is not in the centre of the steering wheel it would have had the early type. TBH it's academic now unless you're going full-on back to standard.

No, Morris were one of the last to abandon trafficators in 1961 and henceforth used white front red rear indicators until 1964 on the Minor. To operate the indicators with brake lights (using the same 21w filament) a Lucas DB10 relay is needed which complicates the wiring if planning to retrofit. The indicator stalk with green end is the same. My 1962 station wagon uses this system and nobody following has ever failed to understand which way I want to turn.

You use the L488 bulb holder and rubber and the L489 lens. Alternatively you reinstate the trafficators and fit flashing LED's.

The switch is a panel light switch for the higher trim level Leyland cars. Ital, late Princess etc.

I have been following this thread and your work is very impressive. I expect the panel lamps will be 2.2 watts. The holes look like they will take the larger glass size of a 5 watt bulb, which I have used before and make a considerable difference. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MES-12V-5W-Screw-In-bulb-E10-New/131815315935?hash=item1eb0ce19df:g:zwAAAOSwwZtaaQYQ Independent control of the panel lights, whether by a dimmer or simple on/off switch is a great feature and the idea is to switch them off when travelling along dark unlit roads to avoid glare and distraction. Old cars are great in this respect, you can actually concentrate solely on the road.