Mercedes E320 CDI S211, Shite or Shiteable?

[Snake Charmer]

20 hours ago, Jazoli said:

Haha yeah I've not bothered scanning mine yet as I'm happy being blissfully ignorant.

It's a pride thing to go one whole week without a code! 😁

[Snake Charmer]

The cabin air temperature sensor arrived this week. I must be getting old as it was hard work reaching up under dashboard so lots of turdycurses were uttered.

New and old compared, I can see the sensor has disappeared. (The little black knob dead centre.) No smirking.

My feet  are warmer in the mornings now so it must have done something. 

[Snake Charmer]

The nearside headlamp started flashing in the week so I swapped the xenon headlight bulbs over to check the ballasts. Bulb gone, so off to Halfords for some Turbo Nutter Bastard Osram replacements. Ouch, the Trade card took the edge off and they were not much cheaper on Ebay. @bobdisk will be pleased as he wasn't happy with theheadlight output last time we went to the FOD. 😁

Came close to buying another S211 E320 CDI for spares at the weekend but had too much wrong with it. Prompted me to thin the fleet, Golf spares car away on Tuesday for scrap and the Volvos dragged out for a decision on their fate, one of which will be weighed in soon.

[Snake Charmer]

Gave the Osram Peeky Blinders a workout in the dark dank rain earlier, definitely brighter and reassuringly expensive. Standard Osram xenon were fitted previously. 

[Wgl2019]

10 hours ago, Snake Charmer said:

Gave the Osram Peeky Blinders a workout in the dark dank rain earlier, definitely brighter and reassuringly expensive. Standard Osram xenon were fitted previously. 

I fitted these to my Saab about 6 years ago.... well worth the money and last for ages (headlights always on so some significant hours)

[Snake Charmer]

I spent an hour in the workshop, took the front Bilstein dampers off and dropped the spring platforms the final two notches which equates to 10mm. The front tyres now sit with a finger gap to the wheel arch.

[Snake Charmer]

The tailgate close button has been playing up recently, I was surprised at being able to get it apart to try a bit of switch cleaner in the PCB mounted push button. Seems to have worked so far. 

I'm currently waiting for the ramp to be free one evening at work and enough enthusiasm available to swap out the propshft centre bearing that arrived from Autodoc last week. 

[Snake Charmer]

Houston,  we have a problem......

[Jazoli]

1 hour ago, Snake Charmer said:

Houston,  we have a problem......

Oh dear that looks like sbc pump failure to me (I'm not looking forward to it myself currently on the 'service brake' warning) I have the details of a bloke who rebuilds them down south.

You do seem to be experiencing all the W211 issues, it's making me question keeping mine.

[colino]

I would change the brake pedal switch and cross my fingers. You then have to rule out the auxiliary battery or its charging and if not, sadly, its the sbc rebuild. 

[colino]

I also forgot, there are very cheap ebay devices to make the sbc controller forget it has applied the brakes 300000 times or whatever the inbuilt limit is. 

[Jazoli]

9 hours ago, colino said:

I also forgot, there are very cheap ebay devices to make the sbc controller forget it has applied the brakes 300000 times or whatever the inbuilt limit is. 

Yeah but you wouldn't would you? The pump will fail eventually and leave you with no brakes, its not 'that' expensive to fix now, from what I've read (a lot) the reset tools only clear a particular fault code and usually just brick the pump.

I'm all for cheap fixes and workarounds, but not on safety critical items like brakes.

[sierraman]

Where had I got it in my head that Mercedes were a quality car! 🤣

[Snake Charmer]

There's brake fluid on the right rear undertray and the level is down. I'm fully expecting the half full tank will need dropping as I'm doing the job on axle stands!

[Crackers]

"brake defective"

"stop vehicle"

Might as well just say "hold tight"...

[Snake Charmer]

1 hour ago, Crackers said:

"brake defective"

"stop vehicle"

Might as well just say "hold tight"...

Brace! Brace! Brace! 😳

[yes oui si]

Hopefully you get it sorted easily enough - I really like this car, and enjoy your tinkering updates. 

[Snake Charmer]

1 hour ago, yes oui si said:

Hopefully you get it sorted easily enough - I really like this car, and enjoy your tinkering updates. 

Thanks, no going back now......

[Jazoli]

I must say I like the way you just get stuck straight in, I've never looked underneath mine yet and the mot is due on Monday

[Snake Charmer]

1 hour ago, Jazoli said:

I must say I like the way you just get stuck straight in, I've never looked underneath mine yet and the mot is due on Monday

Ooh, do you have a friendly/tame testing station? 

Laughably,  I was on the way home from having the puncture repaired properly. I did a temporary repair with superglue and the original screw that leaked so fitted a better screw with vulcanising fluid! Thinking back, I was using the SBC Stop in Weybridge traffic on the way to the place of tyre fitting and repair as I was bored. I use the SBC Hold a lot and remember a pop now on the Co-Op beer stop waiting for a bloody Mercedes to perform an elaborate parking manoeuvre then the dash lit up and alarms started screaming. Honestly,  I was expecting "TERRAIN, PULL UP!!" and the steering wheel to start shaking!

I had a low brake fluid light the week before last and topped the reservoir up, no sign of a leak so put it down to the rear pads being worn and taking some fluid out when I fitted the front discs & pads. Had the planets been in alignment last week I would have fitted the propshaft centre bearing on the ramp at work and seen the damp undertray. Being me, I needed to fabricate an exhaust hanger before starting that job to weld on at the end of the job killing two jobs and no birds. I machined some 302 Ford bits for work instead. 🙈

[Snake Charmer]

My Saturday. I cleared the garage floor of a ridiculous amount of shite today (including the Interceptor) and maneuvered the Mercedes into position. Jack the front up and place on short stands so I can still get the jack under the differential to lift the rear. Good guess, my long reach jack just went under the fuel tank with 1/4" to spare. Back to the front and lift up on to taller axle stands. Right rear wheel off, inner arch undone and undertray too. Jack the rear higher as the undertray is trapped by the hockey puck on the axle stand. I don't miss working on axle stands regularly like I used to for a living!

Place large towel on floor to soak up brake fluid from undertray, so that's where it went from the reservoir. Open drivers door and wait for the SBC pump to go ape and spit brake fluid everywhere. Good grief that's a rusty brake pipe with a hole blown in it where the road salt & shite gets flung onto it by the sill end. Marvel at how clean and new looking the steel brake pipe is further up snaking along the floorpan indicating the possibility of a join. Crack a beer to celebrate. Pray I can get the caliper flexible apart and add a section of pipe in reusing the flexible.

If not, it's the works shitbox Astra van for a few days until I can get Goodridge hoses made up for both sides and get a pressure bleeder to do a proper fluid change/bleed with the iCarsoft CR Max instead of a quick fix. If this is the case I will look at the the possibility of doing the front flexibles and a full hard line replacement throughout in Kunifer if they are accessible.

More beer please. Photos later as we now officially have the heating on.

[Snake Charmer]

Plus Gas applied liberally to the brake flexible connector throughout the evening and a good dousing before bedtime and the rusty brake pipe fitting came out easily. Simple enough job adding a connector and a new length of Kunifer brake pipe.

Bleeding the caliper was interesting, undo the Bleed nipple and open the drivers door  the SBC pump did the rest!

I decided the other side should have a coat of looking at only to find it had already been done. 50ft of Kunifer anyone? 😆

A cheap pressure bleeder from Ebay is on order, I will fit an air pressure regulator to give a constant 30psi and bleed the system properly wmy iCarsoft CR Max.

Offending Twiglet........

[vaughant]

I too enjoy these updates and marvel at your can do attitude 👍👍👍. 

 

Car looks fucking ace by the way 😎😎😎😎😎

[Jazoli]

Well done that man, mine failed its test yesterday on a couple of lower ball joints, it's going into the garage next week to have them done, clean sheet otherwise.

[Snake Charmer]

15 hours ago, vaughant said:

I too enjoy these updates and marvel at your can do attitude 👍👍👍. 

 

Car looks fucking ace by the way 😎😎😎😎😎

 

9 hours ago, Jazoli said:

Well done that man, mine failed its test yesterday on a couple of lower ball joints, it's going into the garage next week to have them done, clean sheet otherwise.

Thank you gentleman, much appreciated. 

@Jazoli I hope the bill is not too expensive. I adjusted my front wheel bearings when doing the dampers, the steering felt better afterwards so it might be worth asking them to check whilst apart. 👍

Still wailting for the pressure bleeder to arrive, that will be the next job to tackle. The rear washer is not squirting very well, even after I gave it a good coat of looking at it wasn't much better so either there is a leak or a replacement is needed and of course its heated!  This might move up in urgency as I have a trip to Wales in a couple of weeks.

[Snake Charmer]

The pressure bleeder turned up eventually on Thursday night at work dumped on the doorstep after we all went home, thanks Herpes or whatever you call yourself this week. 

£32.50 delivered and a very tidy bit of kit Sealey would happily slap a sticker on and charge 3x as much for. Other than the debris inside (bits of plastic with a nicely trimmed thick black hair for good quality control measure) and a pressure gauge that seems to have been calibrated to 13psi at 11000ft, its nearly up to the job of bleeding my Mercedes brakes.

A modification to the filler cap to add compressed air via a regulator and now its up to the bleeding job.

SBS,  Sensotronic Brake System. Fills owners with fear, rage and anguish. I like a challenge but I now have experience of all three emotions in one weekend.

Should be simple, wheels off and car on stands, 3ltrs of brake fluid in the pressure bleeder, air on and set below 2.5bar, bleed bottle on left rear caliper then start the bleeding process with my iCarsoft CR Max. It started the process then lost communication leaving me with the screaming red dashboard and gearbox locked out then refused to let me reset everything. 

A trip to @bobdisk for a loan of his Foxwell diagnostic tool did not clear the problem either so I locked up, walked away and drank beer.

Sunday I gave it another coat of looking at after a fair bit of Googlefoo. I found on Bob's Foxwell a sub menu under Service and EPB that covered the SBC. Confusing as my car has no electronic parking brake so I did not think to look in there! Checked my ICarsoft and same sub menu under EPB that allowed me to stop the dash screaming.

Having bled around 2ltrs of fluid through from all four calipers, I decided to put the wheels back on and have another attempt at a later date. Unless the system is bled using the correct procedure the pressure accumulator does not get fresh fluid.

The brakes are working fine, SBCS and SBCH functions are there with no codes. One rusty brake pipe has cost me around £100 and a lot of time, but I have a new tool to play with and 50ft of Kunifer on the shelf!

[Jazoli]

How did you mod the pressure bleeder? As I have the same unit and a compressor and need to do my SBC and brakes.

[Rust Collector]

Well done mate, replacing the lines on these is a tedious job. The routing and clips on the back firewall/heat shields is a right pain in the arse. I did the 4 on my dad’s early W211 - can I just ask about the need for the airline on the bleeder, was that just for ease of use/consistency of pressure applied?

[Snake Charmer]

9 hours ago, Jazoli said:

How did you mod the pressure bleeder? As I have the same unit and a compressor and need to do my SBC and brakes.

I drilled and tapped the filler cap 1/4"BSP to fit a hose connector and used a filter regulator set to 30psi.

This is a temporary arrangement using parts I use for my spray guns, I have been looking at Rectus 21 fittings with an on/off valve for the filler cap and a permanently fitted filter regulator so the unit can still be used manually and to prevent anyone at work plugging it in to 150psi direct from the compressor. 

8 hours ago, Rust Collector said:

- can I just ask about the need for the airline on the bleeder, was that just for ease of use/consistency of pressure applied?

Thanks. 👍 The airline and regulator are partly for ease of use on my part to save pumping manually but the SBC pump needs a constant supply of fluid to the reservoir at 2-2.5bar while the pump runs through the bleeding cycle.

Also, the battery needs to be kept charged during the process and I'm not sure if running the car is possible during bleeding.

I am yet to find out if my iCarsoft CR Max is capable of successfully performing the correct SBC bleeding process or requires MB Star.

[Snake Charmer]

I found this on tinternet, I'm sure becoming a Freemason would be easier! 

 

AR42.10-P-0009T Bleed Brake System Without Star Diagnosis

Bleed Brake System Without STAR DIAGNOSIS

DANGER:

Risk of injury. When working on the SBC brake system, body parts may be jammed or crushed and skin and eye injuries may result due to brake fluid escaping under high pressure.
Disable the SBC self-test
Risk of poisoning from swallowing brake fluid. Risk of injury from brake fluid coming into contact with skin and eyes.
Pour brake fluid only into suitable and appropriately marked containers. Wear protective clothing and eye protection when handling brake fluid.
Risk of death. Death may result if vehicle slips or topples from the lifting platform.
Align vehicle between the columns of the lifting platform and position the four support plates at the lifting platform support points specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
CAUTION:

See brake fluid notes
See notes on repairs to brake system
Brake lining replacement and brake fluid change must not be carried out simultaneously.
Before working on the SBC brake system the sequence of the SBC self-test must be prevented, as this leads to the brake pistons moving out automatically.
When working on the SBC brake system the brake pedal must not be pressed under any circumstances as this leads to the brake pistons moving out automatically. Inadvertent operation of the brake pedal must be prevented reliably by suitable measures.
When working on the SBC brake system no persons or animals must stay in the vehicle.
NOTE:

Before starting work it is absolutely essential to read through the complete work description as the operations have to be completed in rapid succession. To carry out the operations correctly a second person must be present as within the work procedure certain signals cannot be seen by one person
If the work procedure is revised or if the time requirements cannot be adhered to, the operations cannot be carried out correctly.
1 Position the vehicle on the two-pillar or four-pillar lifting platform
2 Open driver-side side window
3 Switch off all the vehicle's electrical consumers and remove the key from the ignition switch
NOTE: Vehicles with code (889) Keyless Go: Press starting-stop button repeatedly until the ignition is switched off.
4 Unlock engine hood and close the vehicle doors
5 Open engine hood
6 Raise the vehicle until all the wheels can be rotated freely
7 Close vehicle doors and allow the vehicle to be locked globally for min. 30 seconds (t1)
NOTE:

Vehicles with code (889) Keyless Go: remove Keyless Go cards or key from the vehicle and store outside of transmitter range (for at least 2 minutes ).
During this time the run-on of the SBC brake system elapses.
8 Unlock vehicle
NOTE:

From now on the brake pedal must not be pressed anymore.
An SBC self-test may proceed.
9 Connect a battery charger to the rear on-board electrical system battery and switch on
NOTE:
Connect the negative terminal of the battery charger to the body ground (not to the negative terminal of the battery) so that the battery control module detects the charging of the battery.
It must be possible to raise the vehicle with the battery charger connected.
10 Connect brake fluid replacement unit
NOTE:

Pay attention to manufacturer's operating instructions.
It must be possible to raise the vehicle with the brake fluid changing equipment connected.
The brake fluid changing unit must reach a pressure of 2 to 3 bar .
Brake fluid replacement unit
Bleed front brakes


11 Remove the front wheels
If there is difficult access to the bleed screws
12 Switch on brake fluid replacement unit
13 Connect bleed bottle to the bleed screw of the front left brake caliper (1). Open, close bleed screw
NOTE: Leave bleed screw open until new brake fluid flows through the bleed bottle hose free of bubbles.
14 Connect bleed bottle hose to the bleed screw of the front right brake caliper (2). Open, close bleed screw
NOTE: Leave bleed screw open until new brake fluid flows through the bleed bottle hose free of bubbles.
15 Switch brake fluid replacement unit depressurized
NOTE: Switching off the brake fluid replacement unit is not sufficient, the residual pressure is only reduced by disconnecting the brake fluid replacement unit.
16 Fit front wheels

When the front wheels are removed.
Bleed rear brakes


17 Remove right rear wheel

In the event of difficult access to the bleed screw.
18 Connect bleed bottle hose to the bleed screw of the rear right brake caliper (3)
NOTE: Keep ready a suitable tool for opening the bleed screw. Do not open the bleed screw yet.
19 Ignition On (Z2)
NOTE: Through the open side window. Vehicles with code (889) Keyless Go : Do not activate any Keyless-Go functions for the following operations.
20 Switch off ignition (Z0), wait for 1 to 5 seconds (t2) and switch ignition on again (Z2)
NOTE: Do not start engine! The ignition remains switched on for the further steps.
21 Rotate left rear wheel quickly and evenly in the running direction
NOTE: Rotate wheel for min. 3 seconds (t3) (1 to 2 revolution/s  ), then bring the wheel to a standstill.
22 Rotate left front wheel quickly and evenly in the running direction
NOTE:
The left front wheel must be rotated max. 60 seconds (t5) after the left rear wheel Rotate wheel (1 to 2 revolution/s  ) until it is braked automatically.
The stop lamps flashing on and off 3 times confirms successful activation, the brake fluid change routine is started. The front brake pads are applied several times.
Steps 23 and 24 must be carried out within 40 seconds of the stop lamps finishing flashing on and off 3 times
23 Switch on brake fluid changing equipment
NOTE: Subject the SBC brake system to a pressure of 2.0 to 3.0 bar .
24 Open bleed screw of right rear brake caliper (3)
NOTE:
Extremely high pressure in the bleed bottle hose, secure or hold it to prevent it from slipping off.
The high-pressure pump only starts to deliver after 40 seconds have elapsed since the flashing of the stop lamps.
The bleed screw must be opened within the 40 seconds , otherwise the brake fluid change routine is terminated, do not open the bleed screw anymore. Start again with step 20.
25 150 seconds (t6) after stop lamps flash on and off 3 times (step 22), close the bleed screw of the right rear brake caliper (3)
NOTE: The procedure of the brake fluid change routine ends automatically in the event of problems the brake fluid change routine can be terminated prematurely by closing the bleed screw. It is absolutely essential to carry out steps 35 to 37 before repeating the brake fluid change routine.
26 Connect bleed bottle hose to the bleed screw of the left rear brake caliper
27 Remove left rear wheel

In the event of poor access to the bleed screw.
28 Open, close bleed screw of left rear brake caliper (4)
NOTE: Leave bleed screw open until new brake fluid flows through the bleed bottle hose free of bubbles.
29.1 Remove rear part section of lower engine compartment paneling
29.2 Remove bottom part of rear noise encapsulation
30 Remove cap on clutch housing and open, close bleed screw of central clutch operator (5)
NOTE: Leave bleed screw open until new brake fluid flows out free of bubbles.
31 Fit cap to clutch housing
32.1 Install rear part section of lower engine compartment paneling
32.2 Install rear bottom part of noise encapsulation
33 Switch off brake fluid replacement unit and disconnect at brake fluid reservoir
NOTE: Switching off the brake fluid replacement unit is not sufficient, the residual pressure is only reduced by disconnecting the brake fluid replacement unit.
34 Fit rear wheels

When rear wheels are removed.
End the brake fluid changing routine


35 Get into the vehicle
NOTE: The brake pedal must not be operated.
36 Ignition off (Z0), press the brake pedal rapidly and with maximum foot force after 1 second (t7)
NOTE:
This checks the bleed status of the left front brake circuit.
A slight pressure pulse must be noticeable at the brake pedal.
Should this not be the case, carry out step 37 nevertheless.
37 Release brake pedal, after 1 second (t7) press the brake pedal quickly and with maximum force until the brake pedal is pushed back
NOTE:

This checks the bleed status of the right front brake circuit.
The brake pedal is pushed back by the SBC system by approx. 4 to 10 mm .
If the brake pedal was pushed back twice as described in steps 36 and 37 the process is completed successfully.
Repeat bleeding procedure a maximum of once as of step 7, otherwise, bleed brake system using STAR DIAGNOSIS.
38 Disconnect battery charger.
39 Start the engine, depress brake pedal 5 to 10 times, switch off engine and switch on ignition
NOTE: If bleeding is successful no error message appears in the instrument cluster, otherwise, repeat bleeding procedure a maximum of once as of step 7, if the error message was erased the bleeding procedure was successful. If the error message continues to appear in the instrument cluster, carry out steps 7 and 8, otherwise, bleed brake system using STAR DIAGNOSIS.
40 Check brake fluid level in brake fluid expansion reservoir and correct if necessary
CAUTION:

Only tighten the brake fluid reservoir cap slightly.
If the brake fluid reservoir cap is tightened excessively, problems with the venting of  the brake fluid reservoir may occur.