2004 Mercedes C180K: Winter/ULEZ Beater of Distinction

[Volksy]

1 hour ago, wesacosa said:

 

Found a cheeky 6 disc changer in the glove box

 

Sorry to disappoint. That's just a CD storage thingy

[wesacosa]

1 minute ago, Volksy said:

Sorry to disappoint. That's just a CD storage thingy

ah booo

I was going to unplug it anyway and put a Bluetooth in the aux socket so nothing lost. I did wonder why it had a single cd head unit and a 6 disc

[Stanky]

4 minutes ago, Volksy said:

Sorry to disappoint. That's just a CD storage thingy

hahaha, yes, I discovered this the hard way on my 2001 S203 too! I did however discover a Depeche Mode album in drawer #4 so not all bad.

[horriblemercedes]

2 hours ago, wesacosa said:

ah booo

I was going to unplug it anyway and put a Bluetooth in the aux socket so nothing lost. I did wonder why it had a single cd head unit and a 6 disc

I think on these that if you ordered CD changer, you still got the single slot head unit. You just also got a CD changer 

[Stanky]

Door lock spring replacement guide can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqqYk89vSIU

I thought I'd documented it but only the distress mid-job when I couldn't get the myriad cables to go back properly. Thread here: 

Basically door card off, inner sound deadening off, speaker, EW switches, all the gubbinz, drill the heads off the rivets which hold the airbag to the door and unplug it (which is sketchy AF because its right in your face), then undo the lock module from the inner door and ease it out the inner door via one of the holes. IIRC it involves making the window go up and down a few times for access to things? 

Once its out, you need some needle-nose pliers or the grabber things on the YT vid to grab the remnants of the old spring and to get the new spring into place, then refitting is the reversal of removal. I bought the kit with 4x springs and the grabber things, I'm not sure where they went, I have a feeling I may have posted the spare spring and grabber to another shiter? You'll need some 4.8mm rivets to refit the airbag module to the door frame, or rivnuts and m8 stubby bolts. Again, you're doing this with your face about 3" from the airbag module which gave me the fear, but it worked out OK in the end.

An awful of of disassembly and reassembly for the sake of a tiny spring, but its pretty pleasing once its fixed. I'd say that taking it slowly, its probably 4h of work start-to-finish? You might do it in 2h if you know what you're doing.

BTW, ignore the YT videos with maniacs hacking bits of the inner door frame off with grinders, you categorically do NOT need to do that. Its fiddly, but the lock module will come out and go back in the lower of the 2 holes. Buy the

Also also, the door release cable must go over the TOP of the airbag module when you put it all back together, otherwise its too tight and the door won't latch closed. 

 

[wesacosa]

2 hours ago, Stanky said:

Door lock spring replacement guide can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqqYk89vSIU

I thought I'd documented it but only the distress mid-job when I couldn't get the myriad cables to go back properly. Thread here: 

Basically door card off, inner sound deadening off, speaker, EW switches, all the gubbinz, drill the heads off the rivets which hold the airbag to the door and unplug it (which is sketchy AF because its right in your face), then undo the lock module from the inner door and ease it out the inner door via one of the holes. IIRC it involves making the window go up and down a few times for access to things? 

Once its out, you need some needle-nose pliers or the grabber things on the YT vid to grab the remnants of the old spring and to get the new spring into place, then refitting is the reversal of removal. I bought the kit with 4x springs and the grabber things, I'm not sure where they went, I have a feeling I may have posted the spare spring and grabber to another shiter? You'll need some 4.8mm rivets to refit the airbag module to the door frame, or rivnuts and m8 stubby bolts. Again, you're doing this with your face about 3" from the airbag module which gave me the fear, but it worked out OK in the end.

An awful of of disassembly and reassembly for the sake of a tiny spring, but its pretty pleasing once its fixed. I'd say that taking it slowly, its probably 4h of work start-to-finish? You might do it in 2h if you know what you're doing.

BTW, ignore the YT videos with maniacs hacking bits of the inner door frame off with grinders, you categorically do NOT need to do that. Its fiddly, but the lock module will come out and go back in the lower of the 2 holes. Buy the

Also also, the door release cable must go over the TOP of the airbag module when you put it all back together, otherwise its too tight and the door won't latch closed. 

 

thanks mate. Will give it a watch &read

[Nyphur]

7 hours ago, Stanky said:

I did however discover a Depeche Mode album in drawer #4 so not all bad.

All you ever wanted? All you ever needed?

[wesacosa]

I ordered the $12 vacuum pipe and it arrived today. I was expecting some huge pipe that ran length of engine bay but ended up with this

 

[RoverFolkUs]

1 hour ago, Nyphur said:

All you ever wanted? All you ever needed?

Until you found it didn't work, so you had to 'enjoy the silence' 🤨😃

[yes oui si]

[yes oui si]

(wrong band, I know... I'm just craving a kebab, it's been well over a year.) 

[SiC]

On 11/11/2023 at 19:35, wesacosa said:

As I think @SiCguessed about 8 hours ago (but I kept the jeopardy* going) it was the ex @Volksy and more recently @Pat Earrings's Brothers C180k

Yeah I sorta figured as you said you were thinking of the E320 before I nabbed it, then saw your message up on N24 that you were struggling to find something. Then saw this was sold mega quick and you didn't say anymore on N24. So I presumed it probably was you! But I didn't want to quite fully give the game away.

When you come to sell, I'm potentially very interested. Much more sensible for me than the E320 - even though I'm lovin' the E-class waftyness. Think I'm becoming slightly a Merc fanboi now. Especially pre-2010 stuff where they were class over bling.

I reckon the MAF sensor might be fine on this but that vacuum hose is after it. If a major split then it'll be making a massive unmetered air leak that the MAF isn't aware of. I suspect once that is fixed, the MAF will be okay. That said, forced induction engines do seem to give MAFs a harder life. 

[SiC]

On 13/11/2023 at 13:19, wesacosa said:

electric folding rear headrests didn't seem to work

I had far too much fun with the button on mine the other day.

 

No button to raise unfortunately. Probably fortunately for my passengers as I'd be irritating the heck out of them with it otherwise. 

[wesacosa]

sadly not as many buttons on mine but I did get the head rests to do that !

reading up on the forums they reckon the mafs are pretty robust so fingers crossed, as they are not cheap to replace 

At the moment the plan is for this to see me through winter and then see how we get on but sure will give you a shout as and when

[SiC]

Check the part codes on the MAF but this seems common for a lot of Mercedes (including my E320)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314871498387

That seller is legit genuine Bosch parts and often come up on the eBay 10%/15%/20% codes when they are around.

They're a lot cheaper than ECP/GSF. The improved fuel economy from the new MAF on my TT very quickly paid for the price.

[wesacosa]

1 minute ago, SiC said:

Check the part codes on the MAF but this seems common for a lot of Mercedes (including my E320)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314871498387

That seller is legit genuine Bosch parts and often come up on the eBay 10%/15%/20% codes when they are around.

They're a lot cheaper than ECP/GSF. The improved fuel economy from the new MAF on my TT very quickly paid for the price.

ooh good spot thanks. I have used those guys before for other bits 

[N Dentressangle]

On 13/11/2023 at 21:28, wesacosa said:

thanks mate. Will give it a watch &read

If you don't want to do all this, put a wrap of insulation tape around the lock pin. Have a google and you'll see what I mean. Doesn't solve it 100%, but makes it liveable with.

[Cookiesouwest]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

I had far too much fun with the button on mine the other day.

 

No button to raise unfortunately. Probably fortunately for my passengers as I'd be irritating the heck out of them with it otherwise. 

That is worth the purchase price alone !

[RoverFolkUs]

39 minutes ago, Cookiesouwest said:

That is worth the purchase price alone !

The infinite whiplash claim glitch!? 😄

[wesacosa]

the results of the probing are in........ A large number of P and C codes stored. 

When I bought it the MILF light was on and ABS which had previously flickered on under previous ownership came on half way home and stayed on.  on Monday I scanned with my cheapo scanner and got a single P code which I didn't note down but was called out as MAF reading. I cleared it but light came back after short drive

looking at these P codes they are related to a number of different bits. However there was a flat battery before the last sale and these cars can have some errors due to that, plus whatever is contributing to the lumpy idle.  Worryingly we cleared codes and started up and it idled like a sack of spanners, almost like running on 3 cyl. I turned it off unplugged MAF and it ran ok. Plugged maf back in and it still ran ok.  Drove home and twice it went into a lumpier idle than pre clearing coded but not as bad as the first after code clearing.  Could just be coincidence of course, maybe it due to temperature or weather or who knows. I will monitor and see what codes come back (and of course replace that suspect vac hose as soon as I can)

The C codes mainly related to RR wheel speed sensor so a likely source of the abs light

 

[SiC]

That 20% eBay code expires tonight if you did want to get a MAF anyway. 

Fuel trims might be going bananas with it connected and a big vac leak. Also intake temperature sensor is usually the one in the MAF and could be doohickey too.

Definitely get that pipe changed before going too deep into the codes though. From the Youtube videos of it being replaced, they look to split really badly along their length making a massive vac leak. 

[wesacosa]

7 minutes ago, SiC said:

That 20% eBay code expires tonight if you did want to get a MAF anyway. 

Fuel trims might be going bananas with it connected and a big vac leak. Also intake temperature sensor is usually the one in the MAF and could be doohickey too.

Definitely get that pipe changed before going too deep into the codes though. From the Youtube videos of it being replaced, they look to split really badly along their length making a massive vac leak. 

cheers. Yeah I think its more likely the pipe so will try that first. If not I will see if another eBay code comes along.  Most of the reading suggests its much more likely the pipes 

[SiC]

Have you checked that the car has a genuine Bosch unit and in good, clean condition? If not I'd be tempted to replace it anyway. Ime cleaning them can damage them. You have to really make sure you're careful if you do and use only the right stuff to not leave any residue or damage the delicate sensor. 

[Stanky]

1 hour ago, wesacosa said:

The C codes mainly related to RR wheel speed sensor so a likely source of the abs light

 

is it grumbling about the ESP, BAS and ABS being inoperative on the display panel? Thats what mine (admittedly older) did when one of the rear ABS sensors went funny. Replacing it was actually really easy, and <£20 for a genuine used part from ebay. 

[wesacosa]

30 minutes ago, Stanky said:

is it grumbling about the ESP, BAS and ABS being inoperative on the display panel? Thats what mine (admittedly older) did when one of the rear ABS sensors went funny. Replacing it was actually really easy, and <£20 for a genuine used part from ebay. 

yes its exactly that, plus the ABS light. Good to know we likely on the right track 

[Rusty Pelican]

YAY Another C180K waftmobile on here , stored codes arnt important AFAIK , Its the current ones you need to look at , often a right good ragging clears things up , mine had a sticky rattly lifter , read up on horror stories and nigh on shat myself then a mate said rag it one and it will sort itself out - sure enough it did . you can buy proper MAF cleaner so that might be a shout . Also read up on the chain issue and felt like i needed therapy afterwards - its been fine though . poor idle or pulsing idle is deffo an air leak , had that too 

 

[wesacosa]

Really not sure what the story is on the brakes on this. Its odd.  When the engine is off the pedal is pretty hard. If you hold the pedal down when you start the engine the pedal sinks down.   When driving its not a soft pedal as such, its just nothing at all happens for the first 1/3rd or so of the travel. Its just a total dead zone.  Pumping the pedal doesn't change anything.  Definitely needs some investigation

Also trying to decide what oil to use. The manual is pretty unhelpful in that it says you can do pretty much anything from 0w30 to 10w40 so long as it meets 229.5 spec,  but general consensus is 5w30 or 5w40.  The notes in service book said Mobil 1 5w/30 was used throughout most of the early years. The MB genuine oil seems decent value but the 229.5 spec now comes only in 5w40 as do most of the other decent brands.  The 5w30 is in 229.52 spec. Assume they compatible but the .52 seems to be aimed at diesels and more modern engines

[RoverFolkUs]

8 minutes ago, wesacosa said:

Really not sure what the story is on the brakes on this. Its odd.  When the engine is off the pedal is pretty hard. If you hold the pedal down when you start the engine the pedal sinks down.   When driving its not a soft pedal as such, its just nothing at all happens for the first 1/3rd or so of the travel. Its just a total dead zone.  Pumping the pedal doesn't change anything.  Definitely needs some investigation

ALOTDTS [A lot of them, or simply a lot, do that sir ]

I've often found that to be a trait of the W203. Its certainly disconcerting and takes some getting used to

[Stanky]

Mannol 5w30 fully synthetic in the blue container is 229.5 rated, but for what it's worth, I found you got about 0.3 seconds of cam chain chatter with it from a cold start.

I've now swapped to use semi synthetic 10w40 Mannol which is only 229.3 rated, but zero cam chain noise even on a cold startup after days sitting unused.

No noticeable difference otherwise.

This is on a M111.951 engine though, I assume yours is an M271? 

I plan to monitor, but I tend to only do 5-8k between oil changes

[RoverFolkUs]

5w-30 is a bit thin for old petrol Mercs, I'd be using 10w-40 especially at this age/mileage