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bobdisk

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    Male
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    Near Heathrow
  • Interests
    Microcars. Want to get an Invacar!

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    United Kingdom

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  1. I would not cut the cable you have, I am still convinced it is the path it takes from handle to carb causing the problem . If it is too long, there may be a way of "loosing" the extra with finding the appropriate path.
  2. @LightBulbFun Its the path that the cable take that needs to be got right first before the new one is fitted, I still think that has a lot to do with it. Before fitting, hang the new cable up straight (from your balcony) and feed some 3in1 oil into it so it goes the whole length, and make sure the inner moves easily in side the outer.
  3. Looks promising. It would have to be mounted somewhere where the weather cannot get at it, if underneath in a sealed box. But I am sure there must be an answer, what do other Model 70s and other rear engined vehicles with hand controls do??
  4. @LightBulbFun, Did you put the indicator stalk on the left of the handlebar, where @Zelandeth has it on TPA ? If you remember, the stalk got in the way of the cable. Look at Zels pics, and fit the indicator stalk and twist grip like that, and it will be a straighter path to the bulhead. It should come into the cab through the same hole. @Mrs6C, I tried pulling the inner of the cable with mole grips, (see earlier post) and it did move., so I think the cable inner is free. I think the problem is all down to the path from the handle to the carb. Hoping to see some pics from @Zelandeth and @dollywobbler of their undersides.
  5. I would go for C, then give them both a few weeks to see which I like best, then sell the other.
  6. On the phone, a Galaxy S8, I use both Firefox and its own browser on several sites without problems. On the pc, I use Linux OS, with Chrome, and Firefox, again no probs. Except that Firefox crashes every so often.
  7. @Zelandeththanks for pics! @LightBulbFun, REVs indicator switch is on the right, so to get the cables straight path as TPA, it will have to be moved over to the left side. If you remember, the lever got in the way of the cable. I think REVs cable goes through a hole in the vertical panel(does it?) so it should be moved to where TPA has it. Both of those changes should make a favourable difference by making a looser bend. Next is to look at the path underneath the car.
  8. @Mrs6C, Ahhh!! I see !! If you look at REVs picture, you can see the green throttle cable hanging low, that is the position it almost wants to work. Fix it higher, and the problems come. @LightBulbFunForgot to mention REVs charge light problem: There is a large relay somewhere to operate the starter side of the Dynastart. You can hear it click when you operate the starter with the key. It could be the contacts in that. I did notice a voltage regulator in REV positioned on the chassis near the rear offside light. That is the most likely place for the fault. There will be a type number on the top. It looks like the Bosch one on the Daf. The Daf has a conventional starter and dynamo, so they are probably different types, but in the same box. Those are places to look for REVs charging problems. I will have to look at the circuit to see how it works, probably similar to the NSU, which also had a Dynastart.
  9. @LightBulbFunThere is a large relay somewhere to operate the starter side of the Dynastart. It could be the contacts in that. I did notice a voltage regulator in REV positioned on the chassis near the rear offside light. It looks like the Bosch one on the Daf. That has a conventional starter and dynamo, so they are probably different types, but in the same box. Those are places to look for REVs charging problems. @Zelandeth Has TPA got something similar? It will have something like white paint as a sealer on top over the cover screw, covering the points. Before trying to adjust it, try cleaning the points and see if the voltage on load improves. It will have the Bosch type number on the cover. I had an awful job with the Dafs regulator but got it right in the end.
  10. I checked the butterfly at the carburettor, with the cable disconnected, and it easily opened and closed (with the spring fixed to the air filter, as @Zelandeth pictured) when I moved it with my finger. For the throttle cable, it seems to be free but tight along its length because I disconnected the twist grip and pulled the inner cable and @LightBulbFun saw that the throttle butterfly open and close. The twist grip is free to rotate when off the handle bar. But I did notice it was fixed too far up the handlebar, by the bend which it rubbed against, so I moved it more towards the end, and it is now free to rotate. With it fixed to the handle bar, and the cable hanging loose, the throttle appears to work, but it is stiff, and the return is sluggish. If it is held up, like Zel’s pic, it does not return properly and the throttle remains open. As @Mrs6C says, fix it at close intervals, but I would like to see the path it should take from one end to the other, perhaps pictures of the route on TPA from Zel and TWC from @dollywobbler would help. I think once we find a path without any tight bends that might be the answer. For the fuel gauge, I have found several Veglia Borlettis and connection diagrams, but none exactly like this. At the sender, one is for a switch to earth for the low fuel light, so the light connected to the + terminal goes there. The other two are the level resistor, but not sure of which is what colour, or how the connections go. Further investigation to come. Not sure if REV has a voltage stabiliser like that, it would be mounted on the back of the speedo, but I cant see one in Claire s pic.
  11. If you pull the inner out to clean it, first, squirt something like WD40 down both ends of the outer. Before putting the inner back in after cleaning it, tin the end with solder to prevent the strands from separating as it is pushed in. ("tin" means to heat the wire with a soldering iron and melt a small amount if solder into it)
  12. @LightBulbFun The NSU's pump had 2 of the black adaptors, and did not have a larger "filter" thingy. As @Noel Tidybeard says, they are a tapered thread, so that they will seal a liquid without screwing it forcefully in. An extra seal would be to wrap some PTFE tape around the threads. Look at the complete pumps connections in the pic with the Ford engine.
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