Jump to content

Stanky's Geep - fire sale


Stanky

Recommended Posts

 

There may be something of use there, if the papers not got wet. 

Not too far from me really.

Ah! hes left a phone number in one of the photos

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven't seen a Geep in years, they got reviewed in some of the mags like Hot Car and Custom Car when they were current. All my reference material is in storage sadly.

I will be a pedant and say I suspect it's based on a MK2 not a MK1 as the dash top, clocks, heater controls, steering wheel and column switch gear are all MK2.

There's not a lot of difference between the two other than minor suspension tweaks and imperial/metric threads on a few bits, track rod ends spring to mind.

As you were...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exciting update! No expense spared!

 

Today was the day that I decided to remove and clean the fuel tank. I was going to do it yesterday (the day it wasn't raining) but didn't get around to it before i ran out of daylight. So, today I got up bright and early, went to the shops to buy some electric as i was down to my last £0.73 and incurred my greatest expense so far with the Geep

post-5525-0-25853200-1513517028_thumb.jpg

 

Normally I work up to these sort of lavish outgoings but I felt flush. I did my good deed for the day by letting the hardware shop cat in from the rain, tried to stroke it and it bit me.

 

Anyway, I trudled back home, put the leccy on the meter and then went out to the Geep.

 

Through the hole in the boot floor I could see what I was up against

 

post-5525-0-40462900-1513517136_thumb.jpg

 

There are two 'rails' that go horizontally across the boot floor, each drilled with 4 holes. The tank has 8 holes drilled in the lip where the top and bottom bit join (easier to see in later pics) and a bolt goes through the rail, through the tank lip and a nut does up on the other side. I broke out the socket set, and slid underneath. This is one of my favourite things about the Geep - its nice and high up so even a portly chap like me can slide underneath and work easily.

 

post-5525-0-72606700-1513517327_thumb.jpg

 

This is the trailing edge of the tank, you can just about see the 4 bolts. The nuts undid very easily and I lowered the tank out enough to undo the jubilee clip on the filler neck and untwisted the fuel pickup/gauge and eased that out then slid the tank out from underneath.

 

This left me with a hole

 

post-5525-0-12754200-1513517439_thumb.jpg

 

And a fuel tank

 

post-5525-0-16401400-1513517460_thumb.jpg

 

The outside is in good condition - the enamel paint has mostly protected it, and where its flked off the metal is clean underneath. It'll need a touch-up, and possible repaint in something that clashes less with the bodywork but overall its pretty good.

 

As we saw previously, the inside is a bit manky - lots of silt and rusty bits and its got about a gallon of manky ancient petrol in it. Out with shiters repair solution #1

 

post-5525-0-31321900-1513517565_thumb.jpg

 

Gravel. I heaped about 10 handfuls into the tank, during which an old couple walked past and gave me a very strange look. I left the manky fuel in there, since it would do to slosh the rust off with, and gave the tank a damn good shake. It made a hell of a noise, but was working - the fuel went a rusty brown colour and the tank seemed to clean up a fair bit. I kept going.

 

After 10 minutes my arms hurt so I stopped, grabbed and bucket and tipped the contents of the tank out

 

post-5525-0-73268600-1513517686_thumb.jpg

 

This stunk. And was very brown and oily. I poked the camera in to see what it was like

 

post-5525-0-33395600-1513517724_thumb.jpg

 

Oily gravel

 

post-5525-0-19019900-1513517734_thumb.jpg

 

Actually, a lot better. Next up I used the hose to put another couple of gallon of water in and repeated the process.

 

Then this came out.

 

post-5525-0-29413500-1513517791_thumb.jpg

 

Still brown, but less so than the first time.

 

I then shook the stones out and took another pic

 

post-5525-0-20558000-1513517837_thumb.jpg

 

Looks like progress to me.

 

Next up, the lavish expense.

 

post-5525-0-08117100-1513517862_thumb.jpg

 

I deployed about 8oz of soda crystals and a kettle full of boiling water, tipped it all into the tank and gave it another good shake.

 

post-5525-0-61744400-1513517994_thumb.jpg

 

post-5525-0-35733100-1513518013_thumb.jpg

 

Then I tipped it all out again. The repeated the process again. The stuff coming out was a lot clearer now, but still had some silt in it. I gave it one more go, then tipped the tank up and squirted the inside out with the hose as much as I could until the water flowing out was mostly clear. The inside then looked like this.

 

post-5525-0-56788700-1513518095_thumb.jpg

 

Which I'm pretty pleased with TBH. Its not completely clean but the remaining bits seem stuck on for the time being, and I'm hopeful an in-line filter will sort the worst of whats left out in due course.

 

Then I needed to dry it out, or it'll just rust again. I hoiked the clothes out the tumble dryer, turned it on and wedged the outlet pipe over the pickup hole in the tank with a flip-flop.

 

post-5525-0-22308300-1513518250_thumb.jpg

 

this seems to be working - its still going now - and is blasting the damp/ming out the conservatory door currently. I left it on for an hour so we'll see where we're at in 20 minutes. Seems to be OK - its not caught fire yet anyway.

 

Hope you enjoyed this update - feels like we're getting somewhere at least.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant job, the inside of that tank looks really good now. The old fuel is likely turned to varnish by now and from the colour of it (and the stones!) it was well worth doing this. Definitely not what you want going through fuel lines, the pump or the carb!

That's exactly what my Mercury was like, there was loads of really fine red dust in the bottom too, it actually looked like red sand but it's rust.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The conservatory still reeks of it! Also the jumper I was wearing may now have reached the point of no return - we'll see how it comes out after a 90 degree wash.

 

I've got the tank in the shed for now - I resprayed the underside with some red enamel paint I use for mowers and it seemed to match pretty well. It's covered all the exposed metal which was the main reason for doing it.

 

Now the tank is fully dry (the tumble dryer trick works brilliantly btw - it took about 90 minutes to completely dry it out) there is a bit of grit still in there - you can hear it if you shake the tank so I'll wait for the paint to dry and then stick the hoover nozzle in there to hopefully remove as much grit and muck as i can before slinging it back on. I need to get a universal cap rather than the plastic bag that currently seals the filler neck too.

 

I had a poke about the engine bay and discovered that the two brass screws that came with the coil were not the same size - I fitted the bigger one to the positive side and the cap for the wire marked 'unknown' now fits on perfectly. I also took the terrible air filter off and copper greased the choke cable before wiggling it back and forth to make sure it still slides as it should. This is something that I know from lawnmowers with dead-mans handles, if the cable gets wet it rusts, expands in the 'sleeve' bit and then jams. Its a pain on a mower, would be a lot worse on the Geep!

 

I had a rummage in the boxes of spares that came with it and there is a dry and apparently unused in-line filter in there which I'll fit - I assume fitting this before the pump is the best place? Pump is on the side of the engine.

 

I had a look at the washer bottle - its there and wired in, but needs a line from the pump to the jets - which also need fitting. Can you get universal jets? Drilling a hole in the fibreglass bonnet is no hassle.

 

I've also cleaned up the seats and one has dried out, the other one is now in the conservatory as on a sunny day, even in december, it can hit 25 celcius out there so is the best place for them to dry out for now.

 

The to-do list now looks a bit like this:

 

- buy washer jet and pipework, fit

- try and find 1x mini wiper arm and 3x mini wiper blades

- refit tank

- buy 037 battery, or 037 end to cylindrical adapters and get any other battery that fits

- refit seats once they have fully dried off

- work out a way to keep the bonnet closed

 

I reckon if I can get the battery sorted - potentially if I get some adapters and get the battery from FIL's focus for ultimate mingebaggery - and seats back in, then slop a gallon of pez in the tank I should be able to see if i can get it to fire properly. Then I'll be level with DW's Invacar progress! backup plan is to feed the carb from a jerry can  but I'd prefer to do it properly if I can.

 

If I can get this far, then it'll be onto the brakes and cosmetic bits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

... off to the breakers.

 

Sozz.. SkimReading again :(

 

 

TS

 

I'm having most of it!

 

Yes fit filter before pump, close to tank is best.

I used to use a single washer adaptor with 2 jets, then only need one hole in the bonnet. Not sure if that will work with 3 wipers though.

I have visions of the wipers entangling at speed in heavy rain!

The clever people used to use original bonnet fastening.

The approved bodge are these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Large-150mm-Rubber-Bonnet-Catches-Hooks-Pull-Straps-Rally-Car-Caravan-Boot/141839023562?epid=1688955791&hash=item210643bdca:g:N5sAAOSwYIhWiSbp

 

You do also need a secondary hook catch for when you forget to fit the rubbers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have visions of the wipers entangling at speed in heavy rain!

 

I really, really hope I never get caught in heavy rain in this thing. Clearly they had death valley in mind for the sort of climate these would be used in!

 

I've found some natty chrome double jets and 4mm hose on ebay for buttons which I'll probably get for this requirement - first of all I need to check the washer pump still, errr, pumps though. And for that I need the battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd not heard of them - I always tended to go to Silverlake in Botley though they charge top dollar for bits. Howards on Hayling used to be cheaper but didn't have a yard you could peruse, so if they didn;t have it already removed and on the shelf you were stuffed.

 

I'll have to check GR Harris out - do they have a yard you can walk around?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, wander around at will.  Friendly.  Not especially cheap but when I needed all the panels for the front of the Zafira, they were willing to walk out and tell me the paint codes of the ones they had in stock which so I was happy to pay the price. 

 

Chap who ran it said that business wasn't easy when the steel price was down so I hope it is still there.  Silverlake can be expensive, but I don't think they're too bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you get universal jets? Drilling a hole in the fibreglass bonnet is no hassle.

My Lotus uses a bit of copper brake pipe with the end crimped to make a nozzle. Works a treat and very easy to adjust. I assumed this was a giffer bodge, but no, it’s pure Chapman.

 

Sorry no pic, the car is tucked up in the shed now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Lotus uses a bit of copper brake pipe with the end crimped to make a nozzle. Works a treat and very easy to adjust. I assumed this was a giffer bodge, but no, it’s pure Chapman.

Sorry no pic, the car is tucked up in the shed now.

My Capri is the same. It's no bodge here either! They sit down inside the scuttle vents and shoot the washer fluid through the vent gaps onto the screen.

They never blocked though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How is it connected at the pump end? Presumably a short length of silicone/rubber hose from the spigot then copper pipe from there on? Or is just the very end bit copper pipe?

It's clear washer hose from the pump all the way up the inner wing and bulkhead to the scuttle vents then has the metal washer nozzles as the very end half inch or so. These have a tab on them which screws to the body inside the scuttle vent to stop them moving. They do look literally like a piece of brake pipe that's been squashed in the middle to form two small outlets on the end.

You could do just that to make your own then solder on a separate piece of copper with a hole drilled through it to screw it down to the body? Should be plenty strong enough.

I'll try to find my ones in the garage tomorrow and get a pic up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Universal washer pump is only about £6 at most motor factors or borrow the best looking one from whatever at a scrappie .

Where is Harris breakers , not heard of that one

They're in Nutbourne, near Emsworth.

 

http://www.grharris.co.uk

 

Traditional style yard, some stuff is on the shelf in the buildings near the gates but you can also grab a hi vid and just wonder around picking bits off yourself too.

Sometimes the crusher is running down the far end which I enjoy watching!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...