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Schaefft's Bargain Barge Extravaganza - Fixing Everything a Little


Schaefft

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On 09/04/2024 at 21:39, Oi_Oi_Savaloy said:

Shaefft - loving the thread and very sorry about the house..................but as others have said, it's happened for a reason ...............and keep in touch with that agent.  just because they've had a better offer doesn't mean it'll exchange necessarily.  You can ask them if the other buyers need a mortgage/survey etc etc and keep on at them (if the house means that much).  It doesn't mean anything until they actually exchange contracts..............right up until that point it can go pear-shaped.  By chasing it up too you show the vendors you're motivated (and the agent too).  

Moider away - the agent might actually pick the phone up to you if he remembers your keen and continued interest in the house.  You never know.  

And keep looking.............also - ask agents if they have any houses that are coming up for sale (particulars being prepared) and if they have anything that they know of that might be for sale but isn't yet.   You never know what'll come out of the conversation.

And ring agents regularly (don't email) - things change week to week.  

Good luck

 

Thanks for the advice, I'm still hoping to get a call back from the agent eventually because the sale did end up falling through (way too early for that at the moment though). The property was rare enough with the combination of price, seller's motivation, location and curb appeal that I can't imagine anything similar coming up anytime soon. We've been looking for over a year by now after all and our set of requirements are quite specific. But we'll see.

Quick update on the Celsior today. The new driver seat triggered a seatbelt warning after putting it in the car. Turns out even the seatbelt buckle is slightly different on the Celsior, it has 4 wires coming from it while the UK LS400 one only has two (which are used for the nighttime illumation of the buckle on both cars). The wiring loom of the seat is identical, it's really only the loom of the buckle thats different, very odd but an easy fix.

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I finished (for now) polishing the bonnet as well. I could keep going forever to get it all perfect but a) I got enough after like 5 hours and b) my Halfords polisher died once and for all. That means it might be time soon to finally get a better polisher with more power that should hopefully speed things up significantly.

600 grid wetsanding to get the worst scratches out first:

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1500 and 3000 grid discs next (thats where you really need to be careful to not burn through the clearcoat. In hindsight I didn't have to be nearly as careful as I was, the super close-up results probably would have been better.

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Done. These photos were actually before I spent another 2 hours today polishing the paint further, daylight wont show all the fine scratches that would become very visible under streetlights.

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It's probably still not perfect but the difference is like night and day. The before photo below was after me cleaning the hell out of the bonnet, including using the claybar that normally removes everything. I ended up having to sand the dirt off of it.

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So yeah, there's the proof that you can polish a turd as long as there's some clearcoat left on it. The problem really is that damage over such a large area takes absolute ages to remove. A better polisher might make a difference but as of right now it would take days to really cover the entire car. It might save you a respray though.

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Depending on when I get a replacement polisher I might have a go at saving the paint on the front bumper. Its mainly scuffs that should mostly come out. The rear bumper received such a piss poor respray at some point that there's little hope in rectifying that though. Next update is hopefully me figuring out what O2 sensors I need to order and finally doing a brake flush. I might even change the ancient pads and/or hoses.

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I guarantee the agent wont call - just diarise to ring him at some point next 10 days.  By then heads of terms should have been signed and solicitors instructed.  I can actually check land registry to see if searches have been started (i'm in the property game myself - but development rather than estate agency - not that that matters per se).

Just pm me if you'd like.

Loving the bodywork work.... proper job.

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E65 finally got a new windscreen today. Unfortunately Im fairly sure I heard some whistling sound coming from the windshield on my way back on the motorway, which would mean that it's not sealed properly and will need doing again. I wanted to confirm during my lunch break, the problem is that either the gas pedal position sensor or throttle body decided to die, sending it into limp home mode and it's now not recognizing any gas at all. E65 ownership in a nutshell.

At least I was able to glue a new BMW badge onto my remote so there's that.

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Ordered a replacement gas pedal for the BMW for 18 quid. It's probably the throttle body that's the actual issue but its worth a shot.

In Celsior news, the car finally received fresh brake fluid, pads, hoses and wear sensors this weekend. I've also done a few other minor jobs while in there and unfortunately revealed a little more carelessness by the bodyshop. Let the wrenching commence!

Front brakes first. I actually didnt end up using the caliper piston rebuild kits on the left, the pistons were still sliding back in nice and smoothly.

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Well, I think we can say I got my money's worth out of those pads. I don't know when these got changed the last time but it certainly been a while considering the car didn't do that many miles in the last 15 years.

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The loose wire in the left photo is the wear indicator sensor btw, for some reason whoever replaced the pads didn't know how to or didn't bother installing it again. This is also what I originally expected to be a cut ABS sensor wire a few years back btw, the sensor plugs into the wiring loom of the ABS sensor, bit of an odd design on early Celsiors.

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Can't say these are the worst pads I've seen but we haven't had a look at the rear ones yet.

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Quick look underneath to see where the minor exhaust leak is coming from. Like the exhaust shop said, one of the exhaust temp sensors is blowing, they tried to goop it up but no luck. Unfortunately impossible to buy now, not sure if it could get welded? I've also had a look at the O2 sensors and tried to measure their resistance. Well, it seems like there is infinite resistance which of course isn't right, it should be somewhere between 5.1-6.3 ohms at around room temperature. I unplugged them to see if it would make any difference to the way the car runs. It doesn't so new sensors it is!

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The 135 quid Maxpeedingrods which I only bought to get the car through the MOT are holding up surprisingly well. I've greased them up before installing them so everything is still moving nicely. Unfortunately I just remembered while writing this that I should have put some fresh grease on them... I also found the source for my very noticeable front suspension clunking. I originally blamed the coilovers but its actually the front swaybar bushes that are so worn out that the swaybar can freely move from left to right. So new swaybar bushes are added to the shopping list. I've also fixed the messed up passenger side bumper corner I accidently caught on a wall. No photos yet but some hot air, a tactical ziptie and reinstalling a bumper bracket did wonders.

The rear is next. Working on an incline lifting a rear weel driven car is always fun.

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If you are wondering why Im using different brands for pads and hoses compared to the front, so do I. I think they just ended up reducing the combined shipping costs when I ordered them from Rockauto like 2 years ago. Motul RBF600 is probably some of the best brake fluid you can get if pedal feel matters to you.

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Yeah, I think its about time to replace those pads...

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The disc is getting very thin as well so rear discs are added to the shopping list...

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Certainly cutting it thin with these. The rears actually had the wear sensors properly in place, replacing this one finally got rid of the last (permanent) dash warning light. Unfortunately the passenger side rear caliper piston was really struggling getting pushed back in so I might need a new caliper there. I'm not sure how much extra I paid for the Bosch pads compared to the Beck/Arnley ones but they were certainly much more neatly packed and actually came with a sachet of brake grease. I used copper grease on the sliders for the front calipers instead.

About the bodyshop's carelessness mentioned further above:

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The rear trailing arm bolt is completely loose, the nut was never tightened after the sill got welded there. Mistakes can happen but I'm really starting to get the feeling that things were just slapped together in the end to rush the car out the door. Something like this is pretty dangerous. I had to replace the nut (with a Mercedes one no less) as it wouldn't properly tighten anymore, I'll have to have another look the next time its on a lift though.

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While having the wheels off I finally had a chance to raise the rear coilovers by 20mm to level out the car a bit better. I don't think its perfect yet but lowering the front should result in a nicely balanced stance.

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Let me know what you think! The rear discs, swaybar bushes and O2 sensors will hopefully be the last few bits to make it mechanically solid. Being 32 years old now it'll probably always need something but any MOT relevant work should near with these 3 things soon.

Some bonus content, the Cadillac is finally moving again and received a wash. That immediately revealed the various paint defects it has, the photos are hiding them remarkably well fortunately!

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Another big blue landyacht that will receive some more attention this summer.

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  • Schaefft changed the title to Schaefft's Bargain Barge Extravaganza - Alfa Attention

Should anybody be bored from looking at the Celsior by now, great news! The Alfa is back! It actually didn't go anywhere for months. 166 are anything but resistent to rot so it hasn't seen the road since October unfortunately. Which sucks as its so fun to drive!

First up was a wash, it turned a little greener than usual in the time it didn't move much:

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Took a little while but much better. I just can't get enough of looking at this paint. The color absolutely makes it, I don't think I feel that way about any of my other cars, so well done Alfa.

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I've also finally put the wheel arch liner back on the car, it's been off since probably a year ago when I replaced the alternator. I'm not sure if I showed this before but the wooden steering wheel, shifter and center console trim from @sdkrc's old 166 are now installed and really improve things inside.

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People keep complaining about American manufacturers and fake wood but that center console trim is by far the least convincing faux wood I have ever seen in any car. Still better than boring matte silver with broken clips though.

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I still need to find a replacement switchpack for the fuel door release that also has the sports throttle response button. Harder to find than I imagined. At least the cigarette lighter surround lights up now, its the little things etc. etc. Hopefully some more progress in the next few days.

And since I can't leave a recent post without a Celsior photo, have a size comparison between Toyota's second biggest and its smallest domestic luxury car offering back in 1992.

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There's a bit of of fish eye lens distortion going on here but the difference isn't as big as you'd imagine. The Celsior would be 7 series-sized while the Corona Exiv is more of a 3 series, although officially based on something one size smaller (Celica).

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20 minutes ago, GeorgeB said:

Schaefft,

Are you from the USA?

Gas pedal? Swaybar?

No, but as many non-native English speakers I guess my vocabulary was pretty much shaped by US pop culture from early on. I do try to adjust once in a while but I just don't agree with the UK spelling most of the time 😂

Some more bonus content. The Corona is still a lovely car to drive. It rides so well considering it's roots.

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13 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

The Alfa looks glorious, lovely colour. 

I also can't get over how there's a real bit of Hadrians wall at the end of your street, very cool.

It's particularly amazing when you are thousands of miles away from home somewhere in Italy/Greece and you know the Northern border of that former empire is a few steps from your front door. Puts the size and achievements of the Roman empire into perspective really. It also means that hundreds of tourists have utterly obscure shite in the background of their holiday photos. Can't wait to park my Caprice New York taxi there😂

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The Corona only made a brief appearance as its now switching storage spaces with the Z3, which is reawakened from its slumber over the winter. The Clubman isn't mine, neither is the Rover 200 convertible rotting away just outside the frame.

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Today was actually the first time I could have a really close look at what I bought at Mathewsons back in October as the car went into storage not all that much later.

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A wash was badly needed, even under a tarp the dust quickly built up.

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So yeah, impressions are still very positive considering the silly low price I paid. There is a little bit of bubbling on the passenger front wing panel and outer sill. Since pretty much every exterior panel is bolt-on on the Z3 this should be a rather easy fix however, if I do anything about it at all for now. There's a scratch on the rear quarter and a few stonechips on the very large bonnet, other than that its really just very minor stuff for what is now a 25 year old car.

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I've managed to clear the airbag light (driver seatbelt tensioner) and will keep an eye on any fault codes coming up over the next few days. The plan is to take the car out for a weekend in the Lake district tomorrow, plenty of time to get a little more familiar with it then! The cheap floormats will go in the bin once I got a proper OEM-like set. I want to replace the center console dials/shifter trim with the burl wood variant as well to brighten up the interior a little, if I can find a sensibly priced set for a facelift dash that is. The chromeline package helps a little but the less matte black plastic the better.

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Its incredible to think that these were sold side by side in a BMW showroom back in late 2001/2002. With its E36 origins the Z3 feels easily more than a decade older inside, the E65 still feels somewhat fresh today.

Speaking of the E65 - the 18 quid pedal assembly actually fixed the limp home mode. It sucks that things appear to break all the time. At the same time parts are so plentiful and cheap that it almost doesn't matter. With the running issues sorted I was able to confirm that the windshield was sealing properly after all, no whistling sounds noticeable at any speed. That meant the A-pillar trims could go back on for one last time:

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I've also had a moment to replace the bonnet badge. They are all prone to fading and its surprisingly hard to find a badge that's not clearly Chinese junk sold as OEM part, fake packaging and everything.

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That's much better:

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Still plenty of other things to sort but this was a satisfyingly easy improvement for once.

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  • Schaefft changed the title to Schaefft's Bargain Barge Extravaganza - Z3 Returnz

The Z3 is doing well so far. Neither CEL nor Airbag lights have come back.

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The access to our Airbnb was half a mile of gravel roads/green lane so the car did a little bit of light offroading a few times.

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In Penrith today. Early 2000s Roadster face-off. I know which one I'd rather have.

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1 hour ago, brownnova said:

That Z3 is a good looking thing in black with those wheels… like it a lot… 

As I do pretty much everything on your fleet in all honesty.

It's a great spec which really makes it, just need a little bit of trim to make it look a little more upscale. I still don't get why these aren't more expensive, especially this exact car. I know there are a million 1.9l 4-cyl Z3 out there which I wouldn't recommend to anyone (although they can be pretty too in FL trim), hence prices for them generally being low. But the facelift really rectified a lot of shortcomings, the car looks more like a BMW-priced sports car, there are no narrow-body variants anymore and with the 2.8 or later 3.0 it goes appropriately as well.

These two were spotted while out and about today. Teal one was a late pre-fl 1.9, light blue one was a slightly rough looking facelift 2.0 i6 (looking at the Mot history proper rough...).

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Weekend over, 250+ miles and almost exactly a tank later and the car did well without trouble aside from an annoying rattle from a heatshield with the top down. Pretty sure this was also the first time I drove over the Hardknott pass, which happened to be during a bicycle hillclimb type event...

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A few driving impressions: Generally quite comfortable, the suspension and seats are definitely long-distance worthy. Noise levels are high with both the top up or down (naturally) at motorway speeds but the only comparable car I have ever driven was a 2-series convertible.

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It handles well although I couldn't get even close to its limits with the gf in the passenger seat (constantly shouting slower SLOWER even at normal speed limits)😂. Tracking is quite easily affected by uneven road surfaces, much more than the usually much bigger cars I'm used to. That compactness really helps with the lake district's many one lane roads though.

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Its not quite summer yet but with temperatures rising I'm definitely looking forward to some more top down motoring. Maybe I'll actually get the SL500 sorted and MOT'd in time to be able to compare the two.

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  • Schaefft changed the title to Schaefft's Bargain Barge Extravaganza - More Celsior TLC
On 23/04/2024 at 13:40, jmsguzzi said:

I really enjoyed mine, but you're right about the tracking, it was awful on uneven road surfaces. Have heard there's a few things you can do to improve them, strut brace etc.

Its not terrible but certainly noticeable. Might investigate what can be done about it if I can be bothered that is.

Parts for the Celsior arrived on Monday so they went straight on the car after work yesterday/today.

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We made a start with the swaybar bushings, as you can tell it was about time...

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Things actually went surprisingly smoothly, no seized bolts or anything really. Replacing the bushes finally removed any frontend clunking the car had, straight forward job resulting in a major improvement right there.

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I've also replaced the dodgy O2 sensors. Since I didn't want to buy an O2 sensor specific 22mm socket with a cutout for a wire I decided to take a sawzall to them instead, access wasnt great but just good enough to cut them down to a length just short enough to get a long 22mm on instead. The sensors actually came out surprisingly easily on both sides.

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The new sensors are of the universal type, they are Denso though so OEM other than the lack of connector. With plenty of wiring on both sides they were cut down to about the right length and crimped together. I checked the connections and resistances of each wire several times to make sure I dont have to do this again. The plastic sleeve acts as heatshrink, I've wrapped it all up in electrical tape to make things weather tight and a little cleaner looking as well. The sensors came with anti-seize paste which was nice, too.

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I took the car out for a drive afterwards, no CEL or limp mode after wide open throttle anymore, the car has full power and pulls well. Fingers crossed it stays that way, will confirm on a longer journey but we should be good there as well now. Another issue crossed off the list.

Rear brake discs happened today. Turns out they are paper thin even when new at just 1.6cm. 1.5cm is their minimum allowed thickness so I'm not sure who came up with that bright idea.

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With the old discs being ancient and having some pretty noticeable lips it was time anyway.

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Job jobbed. I didn't do the front discs as I'm cheap and probably get another few years out of them considering the miles these cars usually do, but aside from them all pads, the rear discs, brake hoses, the brake fluid and all wear sensors are new now, with all calipers greased in the hope to get a lot more life out of them.

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I've also adjusted the coilovers in the front now and double-checked the rears. Its now sitting much better without being exessively low, at least as good as I can do without all 4 wheels off the ground at the same time.

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I think there's still something wrong with the rear suspension but I might have to deal with that when the ebay special Maxpeedingrods wear out and I replace them with the BCs I got stashed away. Considering I only paid 135 quid for them new they are currently proving to be surprisingly good though. We'll see how long that'll be the case.

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5 minutes ago, Oi_Oi_Savaloy said:

Particularly like the alfa it has to be said.  

Incidentally - did the agent call you?  Hats off to him/her if they did.

It is a great car when you ignore it's build quality ha. And no, no further discussions really, the ad was marked as sold subject to contract so I assume that's the end of it for the time being.

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10 hours ago, Schaefft said:

It is a great car when you ignore it's build quality ha. And no, no further discussions really, the ad was marked as sold subject to contract so I assume that's the end of it for the time being.

I think it's worth 3 mins of your time to ring the agent.  I'm in the game, I'm seeing what's happening at the coal face (in terms of people agreeing to buy something ......and then failing to confirm their mortgage details or struggling to actually prove they've got the deposit or the survey gets a bit fiddly or the searches come back - bit early in this case for your deal as it were but it's an example - and there's a problem).

If you liked the house - give them a call and whilst you're on the phone ask them what else they've got coming up - you never know what'll come out of the conversation.  Nothing is certain until they've exchanged contracts.  Get a timeframe for exchange too - if they haven't even signed heads of terms  (should have by now) that tells you something immediately.

It's worth a shot.  

 

If on reflection the house wasn't as good as you thought it was...........leave it of course but it's still worth calling the agent and asking them what's coming up..........agents (sorry to say this) are inherently lazy (massive generalisation I realise and there are some absolute stand outs that work extremely hard and do what they say they'll do, when they said they'd do it........but your agent said he'd call you and .........he hasn't) - you have to do the heavy-lifting and keep chasing them I'm afraid.

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  • Schaefft changed the title to Schaefft's Bargain Barge Extravaganza - Fixing Everything a Little

Well, as the title suggests maybe not everything got fixed but quite a few cars had at least some attention today. The Z3's MOT would have expired in a week so it made sense to send it through the test today. While waiting for the bay to become available we had a quick look at the Caprice (which looks glorious even in its slightly dilapidated state) as the distributor might be the cause for it's recent reluctancy to run.

53681935417_f97fc592ab_h.jpgThe Cadillac is just behind me there, soon to be put into use as wedding car (once, not sure if it would be worth the hassle to rent it out regularly). With the Caprice, Caddy, 300Cs, a faux Chevy (Captiva) and the Riviera there you could almost assume the yard is turning into a US car specialist garage.

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Speaking of the Riviera, with a few minutes to spare I thought why not just throw a battery in the car and see what happens. We didn't even attempt to start it so far after all. Well, not only did it show some signs of life, it bloody started! And died immediately, indicating a potential fueling issue (the usual seized fuel pump etc.). Easy to confirm but I was quickly distracted by something else:

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We have dash lights! And whats more important, the CRT touchscreen in this scruffy, 350 quid Riviera actually works! Considering the rarity of the unit and its tendency to bite the dust at age this is a bit of a miracle to me.

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As you can tell it's detecting a communication issue which might be the reason I can't control the radio or adjust the blower speed. Stuff like this could easily be a blown fuse or seized up blower motor though, only further diagnosing will tell. It certainly wouldn't be a new one. I'll see what others have posted online before I'll have a go next time.

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I've mentioned a few things about the CRT touchscreen system in GM cars of the late 80s in this thread before so I'll just post a few images of the various menus you can access:

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It's quite comprehensive really and incredibly advanced for its time. I've got the feeling that with a little time spent on this car we should be able to get it up and decent enough shape fairly quickly. However, with time often being the issue we gotta move on to the Z3.

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Long story short, it passed with two advisories. It'll need a balljoint (which means I'll actually replace both front lower control arms since they are crusty and original) and the 3rd brakelight doesn't illuminate (neither does the handbrake warning, but offically thats not an issue if the bulb check works at start-up). Not sure if thats just a fuse/wiring issue or the taillight is completely dead, I think the latter would be pretty unlikely but one of the easier things to sort.

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Two roadsters of 90s, Munich vs. Stuttgart. In reality the convertible top and 2 seat layout are probably the only things these 2 got in common. The R129 was available with a straight six and manual outside the UK but in reality its over half a ton heavier and much more of a cruiser than a sportscar.

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After months of just the occasional start-up and drive around the estate it actually got pulled onto the drive to have it's ASR fault code investigated. As posted here last year, after replacing the ASR module and steering angle sensor it now realized that there was a pressure sensor issue. However, in reality it was more likely that the precharge pump for the ABS/ASR system was just seized up after standing for such a long time (years before I got it). Its located behind the passenger front wheel so at least its easy to reach.

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And here it is. It looks a little crusty but no apparent issues with the wiring or connector. I beat the hell out of it and tried to power it up with my Autel electrical tool but it kept tripping the internal circuit breaker, which means there must be an internal electric issue with the pump on top unless I'm just too dumb to test it (works perfectly fine on a spare BMW pump). Unfortunately this relatively early ASR pump, or any I can find so far that looks similar, is rare and very expensive. A theme that seems to be quite common with this SL.

I've also replaced the damage clear indicators with half amber ones. Forgot to take the after photo so more of that tomorrow.

Car #5 was the E38 today. It actually received quite a lot of attention to rectify some of its worst cosmetic issues but with it being filthy I'll wait with giving an update on those until I've cleaned it tomorrow. I will show the new windshield trim though. The glass never got replaced so the trim was still original and crumbling to pieces:

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Part number of the OEM replacement:

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And done. Here's a tip, use plenty of silicon grease and lots of patience...

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Much better. A few more photos of the other improvements tomorrow.

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19 hours ago, High Jetter said:

That screen tho, still working!

 

10 hours ago, Split_Pin said:

That screen set up is probably the coolest thing on Autoshite and nice one for having a plan to get it working correctly!

I know right? Peak 80s hightech right there, and for some reason always reminding me of this:

Anyway, after most of the day being grey and rainy I gave the 7-Series a much needed clean just now. Which means I can finally show some before and afters without half a year of filth muddying the picture. Being a London car its seen it's fair share of action in the 59k miles it spent there:

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You can actually see most of the paint just peeling off on this side:

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The internet will tell you that you need to disassemble half of the trunk to reach the 6 bolts that hold the crashbar on. In reality you only need to remove 6 plastic nuts to lift a single piece of cladding to reach this bolt on either side, theres a round cover thats easily removable. The other bolts don't require anything removed at all.

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2 clips and one 10mm bolt in each rear wheel arch and it just slides out. But hold on, whats this?

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From what I can tell it's some kind of speaker? It's probably been there from almost new and had its cables cut since, if anyone has a clue let me know. It might just be an aftermarket alarm. Obviously I ripped out all the wiring leading to it, always very satisfying.

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Bumper off. Its all looking remarkably clean, I wiped it all down to make sure it stays that way. These drain holes are where E39s love to rot from, not sure if E38s had the same issue. I removed the plugs and properly cleaned everything around them before installing them again.

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And with the new bumper back on:

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There are a few scuffs I will have to polish out but beyond that I'm very happy for 50 quid. I will have to replace the plastic rub strip as that's damaged beyond repair as well. With this being one of the very few E38 without rear PDC I'll probably just end up ordering them from the dealer again.

Moving to the front we had another battle scar:

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The other side looked better but was badly faded. Can't remember if I replaced that side before.

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Either way, I ordered  new front corners from BMW ages ago so off with the old ones:

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I already knew that this bumper had been painted at least once, normally the lower half would be matte black plastic like in the back. The missing clip just confirmed it again.

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Poor little bugger. I cleaned it all and replaced the clips, since I will probably have to take these off again to polish out those scuffs some day, it helps when you dont have a ton of grime making it all even harder to pull off. Here's the result:

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Now its the faded plate mount that stands out like a sore thumb. I'll see if I can use a heatgun to get it back to black, if not another parts order it is. The original reg plates has seen better days as well. If anyone has a recommended place for ordering original looking dealer plates please let me know!

I've also used the chance to re-glue the "Hofmeisterknick"  trims. I didn't know back then but there wasn't supposed to be any gap to the upper chrome trim. Since the Gorilla superglue seemed to stuggle keeping the clips attached to the trim I chose 2-component UHU Endfest from the fatherland this time. Anything German starting with "End" means serious business.

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That'll be it for now on the E38. Replacing the cracked bumper and crumbling windshield trim, realigning those chrome trims and replacing the corners on the front bumper really made a difference. I've been planning this for a while now but only recently was able to find a bumper in the right color. This will always be the best way of fixing paint issues for me, the factory paint is lightyears ahead of anything I've ever seen a bodyshop achieve longterm and unfortunately this E38 is the best example. Poor prepwork means that many of the areas having received a respray are now starting to peel again, and this has been the case on pretty much every car I've seen paint repairs on from more than a few years ago. Either people are too lazy or just don't have a clue how to paint a car, which is shocking considering how much it costs nowadays.

Speaking of poor paint, here's the SL with broken white indicators...

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And non-broken amber/clear ones. If you look closely you'll notice that they are a slightly different shade of amber. I don't know why but Mercedes seemed to have different suppliers over the years which somehow lead to this situation. Will order another if I can ever get this car on the road.

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For now its a major aesthetic improvement to me. I'll see if I can find that aforementioned pump anywhere over the next few days.

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I don't need the Riviera, I don't need the Riviera, I don't need the Riviera.  I definitely don't kick myself for not buying Craig's one in 2004. I don't need the Riviera...

I think the thing that surprised me the most about that touch screen was how much of an utter pain in the ass it *isn't* to use compared to its modern equivalent in so, so many cars.

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17 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

I don't need the Riviera, I don't need the Riviera, I don't need the Riviera.  I definitely don't kick myself for not buying Craig's one in 2004. I don't need the Riviera...

I think the thing that surprised me the most about that touch screen was how much of an utter pain in the ass it *isn't* to use compared to its modern equivalent in so, so many cars.

Yes you need the Riviera, Yes you need the Riviera, Yes you need the Riviera :mrgreen:

 

 I mean I need you to buy it, so I can nerd out over that CRT touch screen :) I mean its Motorola 68000 powered!, as a macintosh enthusiast, Fuck yeah LOL

I would totally buy it myself *just* for the CRT touch screen, but I would not know where to start when it came to getting the rest of the car fixed up sadly

 

((as I have mentioned a few times now, long before I was on this forum a fellow vintage computer enthusiast friend of mine in the States owned a buick Reatta with the same system in it, I thought it was the coolest thing ever at the time)

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On 29/04/2024 at 20:18, LightBulbFun said:

Yes you need the Riviera, Yes you need the Riviera, Yes you need the Riviera :mrgreen:

 

 I mean I need you to buy it, so I can nerd out over that CRT touch screen :) I mean its Motorola 68000 powered!, as a macintosh enthusiast, Fuck yeah LOL

I would totally buy it myself *just* for the CRT touch screen, but I would not know where to start when it came to getting the rest of the car fixed up sadly

 

((as I have mentioned a few times now, long before I was on this forum a fellow vintage computer enthusiast friend of mine in the States owned a buick Reatta with the same system in it, I thought it was the coolest thing ever at the time)

Shush you...you're a terrible influence on me at the best of times!

I'm quite partial to a 68K based machine myself, albeit with my background being on the Amiga rather than Mac side of things.

Being honest with myself if I were looking for one of these it probably would be the generation before this as I really prefer the more square styling.  The slightly melted look of these ones isn't so much my thing.  Though being honest I'd deal with it probably.  It will be a supremely comfortable way to waft around either way, and you can't see the outside when you're sitting in it.

Still reminded of the one that got away whenever I look at American car of this sort of era though, and will forever kick myself for missing the Oldsmobile Delta 88 Diesel just round the corner from here.  Never even noted the reg so unlikely to ever track it down if it changed hands again.  Yes I know that engine has its shortcomings, but it's so utterly strange that I just love it.  Plus it honestly suits the lazy wafty way they drive anyway.  I have driven one (well, a few variations of that body with a few engine variations), and it left a very good impression on me.  I'd like any of them, but the utter oddball value of the diesel just appeals to me.  This one popped up for sale on a nearby road to me here, but by the time I talked myself into going to properly look at it it had gone and I've never seen it again.  Not lying, in that in the ideal world I'd have been straight in touch with Kevin at Junkyard Digs to buy the white one which has just featured on their YouTube channel as it has to be the cleanest looking example I've ever seen, AND hasn't had the engine swapped for a petrol unit.

I mean this is all academic anyway as I'm at least one, realistically two cars oversubscribed here at the moment anyway, so even if this did pop up for sale my hands are tied anyway.  I physically have no space, and definitely don't have time for any more projects.  No matter how appealing!

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