richardmorris Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Oh dear. That seems completely at odds with the condition of the bodywork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuvvum Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Is the TüV like the French CT in that it allows structural wob? That could explain it. Another explanation could be that it's a 50 year old Renault - my Renault is only 45 and has similar structural issues, despite looking reasonably OK from the top. Mind you, as a serial P6 owner, you must be familiar with deceptive appearances, surely? Junkman, somewhatfoolish and alf892 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BorniteIdentity Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Paging: Al Bundy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 The good news is that my electrical tape beam benders worked perfectly. The bad news is that every time I looked out of the window, the car looked right back at me. Oh, the other bad news is that while marking the floor with yellow chalk, the chalk went through the floor. "Jab it with a screwdriver until you find solid metal" I was told. It just kept getting worse and worse. While this is the worst bit (I hope) all four corners of the floor have yellow chalk, as do both sills. The floors have a thick bitumen insulation coat, which does not make life any easier. C'est la vie. Coprolalia, Stanky, HillmanImp and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Oh dear. Obviously didn't leave enough note(s) in the ashtray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnificent Rustbucket Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 The good thing about rust like that is that you can have it welded without needing to paint the car which would ruin its appearance, and is a good cost saving. Still, I am surprised it is as rusty as that whilst looking so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Oh no, you have a bad ball joint... Junkman and HillmanImp 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Thanks God it's only floors and outer sills. Structurally it seems to be sound. Are the repair panels now needed, or not? Magnificent Rustbucket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 The good news is that my electrical tape beam benders worked perfectly. The bad news is that every time I looked out of the window, the car looked right back at me. eyes.jpg Junkman, DeeJay, somewhatfoolish and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 The good news is that my electrical tape beam benders worked perfectly. The bad news is that every time I looked out of the window, the car looked right back at me. eyes.jpg Oh, the other bad news is that while marking the floor with yellow chalk, the chalk went through the floor. "Jab it with a screwdriver until you find solid metal" I was told. It just kept getting worse and worse. C'est la vie.Have you not got the tape on wrong? Surely you want to stop light coming out from the lights to the right and dazzling cars on the other side of the roads rather than the pavement??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkyarddog Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 How did that pass a German TUV? Thought they were really strict? That makes my FE look really solid* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Is the TüV like the French CT in that it allows structural wob? That could explain it. Another explanation could be that it's a 50 year old Renault - my Renault is only 45 and has similar structural issues, despite looking reasonably OK from the top. Mind you, as a serial P6 owner, you must be familiar with deceptive appearances, surely? I think half a century old Renault is explanation enough.Although the TÜV certainly won't approve of structural wob, the last test was in January 2016, at which time the rust was probably a lot less perforant.The TÜV might be a tad more lenient towards rust in non structural areas, with which we largely are dealing here.These are merely the floorboards. The chassis beams and suspension anchorage points are sound, so appear to be the inner sills. Magnificent Rustbucket, Zantimisfit and Dick Longbridge 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardmorris Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 From the look of the floor it would suggest it's had standing water inside for a while. Make sure it's water tight once new steel is put in - door seals are a likely culprit. Magnificent Rustbucket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 There is also only one giant rubber floor mat, which doesn't facilitate the evaporation of any water trapped inside the car.R16 floor boards thus have to be replaced in regular intervals. Magnificent Rustbucket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardmorris Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 There is also only one giant rubber floor mat, which doesn't facilitate the evaporation of any water trapped inside the car.R16 floor boards thus have to be replaced in regular intervals.Just like 2cvs! Is the spares situation ok or will you have to get sheets made up? Junkman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alf892 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 c'mon junkfella........if that rust was listed in an eBay advert there could be only one conclusion It's fucked! strangeangel, Rusty_Rocket, Junkman and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Just like 2cvs! Is the spares situation ok or will you have to get sheets made up? Repair panels are available, but although I suggested them, the offer was declined. richardmorris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Have you not got the tape on wrong? Surely you want to stop light coming out from the lights to the right and dazzling cars on the other side of the roads rather than the pavement??? I just looked at some photos of masks on RHD cars and then did it the other way round on the Renault, placing the tape over the fan shaped section of the lens. Worked. Perfect flat beam on the light tester thing. How did that pass a German TUV? Thought they were really strict?There's a box on there to check whether the car has its original radio or acceptable replacement. Maybe they're strict about all the wrong things? Repair panels are available, but although I suggested them, the offer was declined.True, but that was prior to the poking! Welder will see it tomorrow, I will ask him again if he wants the repair panels while he's looking at the extent of it. Here is where we are after this evening's unpleasant bitumen scraping misery session: Those two door cards are still on because I can't get the window winders off! You're supposed to press on a metal clip inside them, but it's easier said than done. At least I looked up how to remove them instead of forcing them, unlike someone in the car's past. The front two look like they were the star attraction at a screwdriver bukakke party. This is the offside rear floor, after a thorough prod. Not bad. Nearside front. Again, not the end of the world. This you saw. Nearside sill. This was so soft, it was mostly poked open with one finger! Much expanding foam removed. And finally, the offside sill and floor. Looks like someone had trouble finding the jacking point in the past too! Coprolalia, Cleon-Fonte, Uncle Jimmy and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 This doesn't look like the end of the World to me. DeeJay and Magnificent Rustbucket 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 It's not. Even that rear floorpan looks worse than it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardmorris Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Expanding foam! German test rather like the French one it seems. Welding not allowed but if it looks nice that's fine. somewhatfoolish, strangeangel and Junkman 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cort16 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 It'll be easy enough to cut it out and weld new metal in (says the person who took 2 years to fit 1 sill and patch a floor) but if you;re bothered about the floor looking right it's worth getting the floor pans.I spent ages making up panels for my cortina floors and I wish I'd just stumped up and bought new ones. Magnificent Rustbucket and Junkman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Why did he mark the front wing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 It'll be easy enough to cut it out and weld new metal in (says the person who took 2 years to fit 1 sill and patch a floor) but if you;re bothered about the floor looking right it's worth getting the floor pans.I spent ages making up panels for my cortina floors and I wish I'd just stumped up and bought new ones. I agree that getting the repair sections wouldn't be a bad idea. They aren't that expensive, too.Getting the replacement outer sills might be a tad over the top at this point, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Why did he mark the front wing? Mistakenly while marking the sill. Junkman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Make sure it's water tight... Hihihihihi... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Jimmy Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Why did he mark the front wing?FFS it's not everyday MOT bastard gets to fondle an R16. I'd have been licking the front wing. Junkman, Magnificent Rustbucket and beko1987 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Mistakenly while marking the sill. The A pillars appear to be sound. I checked them.I admit that I didn't check the floorboards, since I know they need replacing each time you do a scheduled oil change.I wonder why they aren't screwed in place. Before the interior goes back in, can we lay down some sound deadening? Uncle Jimmy and Magnificent Rustbucket 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conrad D. Conelrad Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Sure, although I don't think it even took a full 15 minutes to remove the interior, so not a big deal! Junkman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junkman Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 It's not removing the interior that sucks, it's installing it.Let's make plans about which sound deadening would work best.I'm thinking in some kind of Dynamat terms.Sigi in Austria told me about something they use in those old Maseratis they do up.It's some sort of tiles and you install them with a hair dryer. They thus conform to every crevice in the floor.The stuff can't be expensive too, otherwise they wouldn't use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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