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alf892

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About alf892

  • Rank
    Rank: Renault 16

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  • Location
    Northants
  • Interests
    pretty much anything old and mechanical!

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  • Country
    Autoshite

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  1. Would be better to take the caliper off and pop the piston and seal out then properly heat it and quench it a couple of times......tap the nipple on the end plenty and then be surprised how easily it comes out with small stillsons. or it'll break off
  2. Light hearted lesson here Mr SiC.......make it go and drive it! Worst that can happen is you get towed home! Also worthy of note that the FTPs on the way to and from test station were caused by new parts......namely a lovely new, super and improved needle valve. Fucked one......not original but spare fucked one........and it runs a treat.
  3. Looked like a well written advert for a car in very average condition
  4. Well......no immobiliser.........nice sharp bend at the end of the road though and it has zero brakes so should end up embedded in the fence. The resultant noise should wake my dog. Sort of sorted
  5. There is somewhere......it's a bit behind on updates though because I never seem to have time
  6. Why not just strip and clean the calipers? The bit that usually makes them stick is corrosion to the piston bore on the outside of the seal.....this corrodes and pinches the piston. Slip the seal out first and clean this bit
  7. No!......More likely inlet stem seals or guides......oils gets sucked in when valve is open.
  8. This is a wind up?
  9. Easiest way to get the bleed nipple out is to pop the piston and seal out and then just warm the body up a bit - a kettle of water is usually enough. Use a single hex socket and make sure the force is just turning it.......this is harder to do with a spanner
  10. So one motor drives a shaft.....and shaft turns but gear on one side not? Maybe the smoke was caused by overloading the motor when the runner hit an obstruction......which has sheared whatever holds the gear onto the shaft? Presumably the obstruction remains which is why the seat twists when you try to move it back.....but seat moves ok forward? Suggest a careful examination of the runners before buggering about further......maybe take the seat out for a proper look.
  11. Brake pipes are amazingly good........needs a set of wheel cylinders though so care needed to free off the pipe nut from the actual pipe when doing those. All front ball joints also good. Track rod ends buggered and steering rack boots turning to dust. CV boots good at moment....may fail once it gets driven though. I suggested new brake master for reliability really as not expensive.......all flexis are buggered so intention is to fully rebuild the brakes with new linings as well. I like being able to stop.
  12. Good point ! but Mr B had had spent quite some time spinning it over on the starter by the time it ran...…..and the oil is surprisingly clean. In fact it does look like it was well looked after (mechanically anyway)before being laid up. Everywhere is well greased and even the handbrake quadrant are free. In fact all work required is due to being stood really......and rust of course! Its a nice car...……….
  13. alf892

    The 405 News

    It's fucked! Has this got the steel pipe that runs just to front of the engine low down?
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