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About alf892

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    Rank: Renault 16

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    pretty much anything old and mechanical!


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  1. RE thrust washers.......aren't they the same as the 1500 ones? Moss do them for the 1500 midget engine up to 30 thou over in increments of 5 thou. Mind you oversize ones shouldn't be used to take up wear.....not wanting to teach egg sucking but machine shop should grind the thrust faces as required and go from there.. If you try to take up wear chances are that the wear pattern on the crank will pretty quick take the new ones down. if thrust faces are fkd you can get it metal sprayed and machined back to standard
  2. My jag recently threw up a load of faults on the dash.........engine, gearbox,abs and a few more. Actually tried not to drive unless you insisted. Was a 30quid speed sensor
  3. I would very much doubt that is an m12 bolt because unlikely it would accommodate that filter gauze so neatly....... on those horns there is a push rod under the points which oscillates as the points make/break.......it tends to stick and just needs taken out and lubricating. I put up with poorly working horns on my rover for over 10 years before having a look!
  4. I wouldn't stress too much about unleaded. I've run my p2 rover on unleaded for 19 years now on unleaded without any bother. Relatively slow revving with a nice long stroke so will run any thing. in any event it is the same job if you do it after as before
  5. Copaslip shouldn't be used on stainless apparently......promotes corrosion!
  6. P40 is made for this kind of job.......just make sure you paint or wax the back of all repairs as this is what really slows down the rust. So many people just concentrate on the top while it will rot from behind. Same applies if you weld it........nothing like welding to make a car rot!
  7. Float chamber level looks ok......but was pic taken after it had stalled? I had trouble with Bornite's mini after we put a go faster float valve in.......it had a nice soft rubber tip so should have been great. I dug the old and very worn one out of the bin and it ran a treat. Plugs say rich but reaction to throttle says lean. Therefore condenser! Especially with those point looking bit nasty
  8. My 11th birthday treat was a trip to the Custom Car show with a mate (Ally Pally iirc) and father Alf and with one of his mates. They left us alone all day.........reckon they went off to pub/hooker. Extra birthday pressie was copy of Men Only as a bribe not to mention the disappearance to my mum. Also got access to the workshop tit mag collection.......all classy stuff like Penthouse, Men Only and Club International. 12th birthday pressie was a Ford Pop dragged out of a scrapyard in Biggleswade..........12 year old me had great ideas to build a custom. Standard ingredients at the t
  9. Good idea get it good and hot ........and just run through the pipe work slowly even splitting each joint. When you think you've checked things loads sometimes it's easy to miss something.
  10. I really can't remember on the gearbox filler........last xud box I had dealings with was in a 305 van 30 years ago! The main thing was about just putting the measure amount in because I hadn't come across that before........and filled it up. Driver came back next day and it was dripping in oil! Are you sure fuel lines are clear as that looks/sounds like lack of fuel. I would go ripping a pump apart either.......far too many things to go ping
  11. On the gearbox oil you just put the correct measured quantity in. If you fill to the filler plug it will throw it out the breather and the driveshafts with distribute it beautifully. i think the Bosch/CAV type varies fuel delivery by changing the angle of the swash plate. What happens when you give it some throttle?
  12. So come on then.......which one you gonna buy?
  13. Oil leak from front is very often the half moon seal not front crank seal. Easy when engine out but couple of hours work when in car but if swapping the box you'll have to change it anyway.....it is the front seal on gearbox and butts up to the rear of timing case
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