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alf892

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  • Location
    Northants
  • Interests
    pretty much anything old and mechanical!

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    Autoshite

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Rank: Renault 16

Rank: Renault 16 (7/12)

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  1. That didn’t happen weeks ago for sure……..maybe consider being more careful with your accusations
  2. LOL…….I crashed my car on your road so it’s your fault. I crashed my car when I fell asleep at the wheel…….I never really thought of the fact it was HA’s fault because that bit of the A1 so boring……I was one my way home from a meeting that had a great buffet lunch and I reckon that was a factor too. The more I think about it the whole thing was someone else’s fault
  3. Nice car! That rear of of sill is time consuming to do……I think it has a brace inside for the jacking point and usually takes a little bit of the inner sill with it. They look like mk4 door strips on it?
  4. Proper job is gas out……leak test……correct weight of gas back in with some lube. Fully automated and it will tell you how much gas was in there. Lack of use can cause loss of gas with time
  5. Yes...it would be more suited to you then
  6. tasteless oik! Good job it’s not yours innit. Mind you this loony will probably throw paint over it.....
  7. RE thrust washers.......aren't they the same as the 1500 ones? Moss do them for the 1500 midget engine up to 30 thou over in increments of 5 thou. Mind you oversize ones shouldn't be used to take up wear.....not wanting to teach egg sucking but machine shop should grind the thrust faces as required and go from there.. If you try to take up wear chances are that the wear pattern on the crank will pretty quick take the new ones down. if thrust faces are fkd you can get it metal sprayed and machined back to standard
  8. My jag recently threw up a load of faults on the dash.........engine, gearbox,abs and a few more. Actually tried not to drive unless you insisted. Was a 30quid speed sensor
  9. I would very much doubt that is an m12 bolt because unlikely it would accommodate that filter gauze so neatly....... on those horns there is a push rod under the points which oscillates as the points make/break.......it tends to stick and just needs taken out and lubricating. I put up with poorly working horns on my rover for over 10 years before having a look!
  10. I wouldn't stress too much about unleaded. I've run my p2 rover on unleaded for 19 years now on unleaded without any bother. Relatively slow revving with a nice long stroke so will run any thing. in any event it is the same job if you do it after as before
  11. Copaslip shouldn't be used on stainless apparently......promotes corrosion!
  12. P40 is made for this kind of job.......just make sure you paint or wax the back of all repairs as this is what really slows down the rust. So many people just concentrate on the top while it will rot from behind. Same applies if you weld it........nothing like welding to make a car rot!
  13. Float chamber level looks ok......but was pic taken after it had stalled? I had trouble with Bornite's mini after we put a go faster float valve in.......it had a nice soft rubber tip so should have been great. I dug the old and very worn one out of the bin and it ran a treat. Plugs say rich but reaction to throttle says lean. Therefore condenser! Especially with those point looking bit nasty
  14. My 11th birthday treat was a trip to the Custom Car show with a mate (Ally Pally iirc) and father Alf and with one of his mates. They left us alone all day.........reckon they went off to pub/hooker. Extra birthday pressie was copy of Men Only as a bribe not to mention the disappearance to my mum. Also got access to the workshop tit mag collection.......all classy stuff like Penthouse, Men Only and Club International. 12th birthday pressie was a Ford Pop dragged out of a scrapyard in Biggleswade..........12 year old me had great ideas to build a custom. Standard ingredients at the time was a viva front end and Jag rear. Never got finished and sold it for peanuts when I was 17 to fund purchase of industrial amounts of isopon and duplicolour for my first Mini
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