rainagain

I’ve been having repeated problems with this starting. A few times it’s gotten bum clenching close that I thought I was going to run out of battery. I found the part number for the starter and did an order by cheapest on ebay, I got one delivered for £13.50. I thought it would be worth stripping the second hand starter down and given it a clean and lubricate inside. Things went ok to start with and I got the solenoid off easily enough, I found the diaphragm had perished but it otherwise looked ok. I marked the case so I could put it together in the same orientation. Then things when down hill sharpish, both the long bolts that hold the motor together sheered as I tried to remove them. Even though I was taking it easy trying to work them back and forward and I was only using a 1/4” socket set. I think what I should have done was heated up the aluminium chunk the bolts screw into. The only real positive thing about this is I was planning on doing this strip down on my actual starter motor. I’m very glad I didn’t as it would have left me stranded. I’ve ordered another second hand one off eBay and that will be getting fitted as it comes!

I suspect it's similar to my 307 which had esp but no button on the dash, see this guide for Peugeots, I'm assuming your car will be similar: https://www.peugeotforums.com/threads/how-to-add-esp-button-to-your-307-esp-cars-only.31865/ I bought a button off ebay, removed the blank from the dash and plugged into the wiring harness that was sitting all ready to go. I bought it as the esp can be a bit over sensitive when trying to set off in the snow. I also had problems with the ABS on my Peugeot as the wiring had gone rotten inside, the copper had turned all black. I had to cut it all back and solder in a new section:

Excellent work, well done

What's this pretty little light on the dash for That'll be the alternator dying, I remembered one of the Saabs at upullit had a new looking alternator. I nipped down there and managed to find the right car, thanks to total disregard to the wiring and piping round the engine I had this out in 20 minutes. It even came with a free 8mm socket that someone had left on one of the nuts on the back of it. The HBOL put the fear up me with the instructions telling me I'd have to disconnect driveshafts and split ball joints, I'm not sure if this is carried on from the 2.2 Diesel. I managed to remove the old alternator from the top of the engine after moving some hoses out of the way. I took a pic of the belt run as I was sure I would forget how it was run Old versus 'new' look at those lovely shiny field windings All back together with the new aux belt I'd bought but not got round to fitting. Many volts The old aux belt was indeed past it I also spotted this potential future disaster, this clip on the oil cooler lines had been slowly rubbing a hole in the hose next to it, I sprayed it with some release fluid and managed to work it round out of they way, I wonder if it left the factory like this?

Great buy I've always fancied one of these but I've never been able to afford the fuel (or repair!) costs. I'd love to make a Camel replica they always look amazing: More pics here https://www.topgear.com/car-news/adventures/gallery-land-rovers-camel-trophy-over-years

The boot lid had rusted all along the lower edge. I forgot to take a pic pre grinding but this is it with most of the rust removed. Again I applied some vactan followed by zinc primer. Followed by a top coat of Toyota silver. Let see how this holds up over winter.

The patch of rust on the o/s arch was really annoying me as was the rust all over the tail gate that annoyed me each time I opened the boot. I looked out a wire brush attachment for my drill but left it at my dad’s so I had to resort to an angle grinder. Rust removal 50% 95% Applying everyone’s favourite or not vactan. One coat Two coats Followed by some zinc primer, hand brushed for maximum smoothness Then I ripped the rough shape out of a cardboard box and sprayed on some Toyota silver. It’s rough as… but I’m just trying to stop the rust coming through, again. If this lasts over winter I’ll give it proper sand down in spring and actually paint it the correct colour.

Great work and that looks like a handy tool, I made something similar out of part of a pallet when I changed the clutch and flywheel on my 307.

I love how it’s called a ‘gear carrier’. “Yarr I’m just loading up my off roading gear to the Defender, yarr let’s off road. Better engage 4x4 that pot hole looks deep”.

I think this is the same battery at Halfords if you have a trade card

That’s not a brake shoe, this is a brake shoe

put some heat on the tie rod, even a heat gun will do. Also get two hammers and smack them together with the rod between them. Shock and heat are your friends. Once you finally get the new gaiter on if the access is anything like my 307 which I believe shares parts with the Xsara you won’t be able to get a cable tie tight enough on the gaiter, I used a jubilee clip and lots of extensions to reach in and tighten it. I couldn’t get a cable tie to hold.

Regarding your sound insulation still letting engine noise through, I’d say it sounds like (pardon the pun) there could be a poorly fitting grommet or other hole in the firewall that is letting noise through. Even a tiny hole can allow a lot noise through. Get a tonal generator for your phone and set it to a reasonable high note and then have someone wave it around in the engine bay while you get the great job of sticking your head in both footwells to see if you can hear any noise.

Could anyone confirm if this is standard Saab fitment on the gear level?

I found holes for footwell lightning but no lamp units as my car is only linear spec. I’m quite tempted to add these but I couldn’t see any wiring harness for them. Does anyone know if I’m likely to find it taped up somewhere or if Saab had separate looms for each spec?