barrett Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Can't you get/make a couple of eyes that bolt into the plug holes? That's how I've lifted engines before, very useful things. Granted, you could just wait until the weekend vulgalour 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 That's actually a really good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilA Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Alternator bracket bolt, I spy another threaded hole at the back of the head on that side, manifold bolts Failing that, the ever trusty length of seatbelt is a good way of threading something thin yet strong between gaps in brackets and manifolds. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 tbh, it's all a lot of faff finding the right size bolts with eyes on and stuff so I'll probably just continue using a strap around the whole thing like everyone else does with these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 I am stumped so I'm posting this info on all the forums I use for this car. This is going to be a simple fix but one that I can't figure out, I've just ended up confusing myself. In the book it states there is a V mark on each of the sprockets the chain goes on. My engine does not have these Vs or if it does they are so feint as to be essentially invisible. Here is the helpful diagram (which is printed upside down for some reason) Now, when I first timed this I did it to "the timing marks" as directed by the Haynes and got it wrong because I lined it up to the two marks I do have on the sprockets that being a dimple on the camshaft and a blob on the crank, as below. The crank is at tdc when the blob is at the 10 o'clock position, piston nearest the timing chain is at the top when the blob is at 2 o'clock and at the bottom when it's at 8 o'clock. If you line up as per the book instructions, taking the blob/dimple to be an alternative to the V marking, you cannot get a full revolution of the engine, presumably because a valve is touching a piston or something, I don't know. I wasn't inclined to force it, I'm being very gently gently in my approach. An internet hunt was futile, I could find info on how to time jet engines and ECU remaps but couldn't find anything to help me with this, I just ended up even more confused. So now I'm cold and frustrated both with the job and myself. scdan4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 This any use? (It's for a DAF, but Renno 1108cc) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 Why do they always show the engine upside down? It helps me see what *should* be stamped on my engine components and is entirely missing, I guess it's another idiosyncracy of this little car. Happily, a fix appeared sooner than anticipated! ---Thanks to this post: https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=49883&start=150 I got the timing issue resolved. I tried to take a video but... yeah. I'm going to need a helper to either turn the engine or hold the camera. And some better light. But anyway, it's turning by hand, things go up and down in an organised fashion now and it seems much better. It is, however, far too cold to do any more work in my poorly lit unheated little garage so a fuller update will have to wait. To resolve, I removed the camshaft sprocket, unfastened the rocker bar enough that it as loose and turned the crankshaft until #1 was at TDC proper (not what I'd mistakenly called TDC, which was actually 90* out). I then turned the camshaft independently to watch the valves, as per the instructions. Once things were moving as they ought I checked the blob and dimple and they lined up as per the book. Cautiously, I put everything back together and gave the engine a few turns and it turn perfectly fine with the valves doing their thing in an organised way now as far as I can tell. I hope that means I've fixed it and I wonder if it was the rocker bar locking things as I'd not known or had forgotten that it shouldn't be tightened down until you've set the timing. Banger Kenny and scdan4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 as a rough check,see what plug lead the rotor arm is pointing at when number one cylinder is up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeKnight Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 I love engine work but this engine frightens and confuses me. The timing is so sloppy on it, so easy to make it a tooth or more out. Difficult or impossible to alter once the engine is in the car because it's slammed right up against the bulkhead. The fact it'll turn by hand without locking up is a good sign, you'll know if it's 180 out because it'll likely run but sound like you poured pieces of cut up spanners into the sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scaryoldcortina Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Mike, check it on the rock. Put it at TDC on 1 and 4 by feeling through a plug hole to find top, then look at the rockers. One should be full closed and the other should be holding on the cam. Check by moving the crank a few degrees back and forward and look for the arms moving. Edit - you've got an access hatch for adjusting timing now! Banger Kenny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 That is, if I understand what I'm looking at, what it was doing. I couldn't remember the rule you'd said when you were here so I'm glad you popped up and put that info here. Mike's going to double-check my work before it goes back in the car, I really don't want to have to do this again even with my professional* timing chain access hatch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuboy Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 On subject of V marking.. has sprocket been off and put back wrong way. 3VOM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 There's no V on either side of either sprocket. Turns out, a few cars had these dimple-blob marks like mine does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 Things are getting all international. I've got a new choke stop for the carb arriving from the Netherlands and a rebuild kit for the carb coming from Croatia after it was learned these things were needed. My radiator that I've ordered from Germany was out of stock, they're trying to source me an alternative so who knows where that might come from (if at all)? Mike had a look at the timing on the Renault and confirmed that it does appear to be correct so with nothing further I can do to be certain, the last few bits will get fitted ready for the engine to go in the car. As far as I know, the fuel pump does bring fuel up from the tank, I know I have good oil pressure and compression and I know I have a spark which are all the necessary ingredients to have a running engine. The plan is to finish putting the engine together which is little more than a fistful of bolts and a few jubilee clips now, pull the bodywork off which is a case of undoing some wires and a couple of bumper bolts, plonk the engine in the car and get it to fire up. Once I know it's running I'll get the exhaust connected and the bodywork back on and once I know everything is working properly I'll order the tyres and book it in for an MoT. With a bit of luck, this will happen this month before I go away for Chrimble (providing the Rover plays ball with the head gasket job this weekend). wuvvum, Banger Kenny, danthecapriman and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alf892 Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 I love engine work but this engine frightens and confuses me. The timing is so sloppy on it, so easy to make it a tooth or more out. Difficult or impossible to alter once the engine is in the car because it's slammed right up against the bulkhead. The fact it'll turn by hand without locking up is a good sign, you'll know if it's 180 out because it'll likely run but sound like you poured pieces of cut up spanners into the sump.If it is 180 out but the timing marks are lined up it won't matter at all...............it will just be firing on 4 not 1. All you need to do to fix this is move the leads around 180. Mind you trying to start it 180 out will take the eyebrows of you assistant if he is peering into the carb to check if fuel is getting through......you get some good backfires through the carb! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 With the engine hopefully timed correctly now there was nothing more to do than get things buttoned up. The weather has been changeable today so I got on with what I could before work while I had the chance. I figured out how to dismantle the front end on my own without removing the bumper or having bits of the car cartwheel down the drive, which was something. The key thing was pulling the face off, which was already unbolted just snagging on things because the weight of the bonnet was holding it when I tried to remove it. Bonnet off and it was much easier to do, easier to store the two pieces separately too. Then the fun task of putting the engine back together. First off I had to slacken the bolts on the sump (which was a chore) so that I could get the rubber seal on the timing chain cover to sit in properly. Bolt the cover up nice and tight and then retighten the sump (which was a chore again) and that was this end good to go. Then I could do battle with the belts which is also a chore. For the cam pulley to water pump belt you need to undo the cam pulley to jiggle the belt on and then tighten it all up again. Having the tensioner now working did at least make putting tension on the belt easier. Alternator belt was much easier as that's just a case of undoing the bolt holding the alternator so you can lift it, put the belt on and then effectively let the weight of the alternator tension the belt before tightening the bolt up again. While I was working on this side I got jubilees on both of the fuel pump hoses and tightened up the jubilee for the radiator hose. All the other hoses are easy to get to with the engine in the car. I also put the spark plugs back in and put the rocker cover on properly. With all that done, the only thing left to do before fitting the engine back in the car is to remove the steering rack. It was too dark to see what I was doing and throwing it down so I'll do that bit tomorrow which is at least straight forward. Plonked the bonnet on and called it a day. danthecapriman, alf892, Ghosty and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Longbridge Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 I really want this little car to wake itself up under your ownership. Fingers crossed for you. As for the bodywork, I know you like the patina an' all, but have you considered giving it a decent layer of Ankor wax or something similar? Salt and shit on our roads is going to ravage those orange bits pretty rapidly otherwise... Ghosty 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilA Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Having never had one of these, how is the aux belt driven? From the lower pulley from the flywheel ring gear? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 You have one belt running camshaft to water pump and a second belt running water pump to alternator. The water pump has two pulleys. It's a bit odd. The whole thing is a bit odd. Banger Kenny and Coprolalia 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeKnight Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Having the pulley drive on the opposite end of the camshaft is a really odd arrangement, with the main drive to the crank being at the other end. It's like they had a few thousand engines sitting around and thought "eh, fuck it, let's just bodge these into them, hoyhoyhoy croissants and garleeeeec". Coprolalia 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuvvum Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 You have one belt running camshaft to water pump and a second belt running water pump to alternator. The water pump has two pulleys. It's a bit French. The whole thing is a bit French.FTFY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 ^yes. To add to the international parts buying, I've got a rear screen demister switch coming from Spain, mainly because the hole in the dash as bugging me and one popped up by chance on eBay for £NOTMUCH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselassist Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 I really want this little car to wake itself up under your ownership. Fingers crossed for you. As for the bodywork, I know you like the patina an' all, but have you considered giving it a decent layer of Ankor wax or something similar? Salt and shit on our roads is going to ravage those orange bits pretty rapidly otherwise... Ive read that linsead oil makes good 'patina preserving' protection on a yank site, but over this side of the Atlantic, the mount you'd be slatering on yr patinta'd ride might leave you ending up like like some sort of 'fully clothed oiled up feftish'ist', while actually using the car, which might be of benefit if your a full time burglar , but a socially challenged for all others outside that chosen career... Great admiration for your perseverance n patience with this old motor, Vulgalour; have fingers crossed for you it'll be chugging about soon....fair play!! Dick Longbridge 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 The best products appear to be Ankor Wax, hard car wax and engine oil, depending on budget and how the vehicle is used. All I've used on it so far is Turtle Wax, though it's overdue an application again since the last time I did it a few months ago. I've not noticed a rapid deterioration of the bodywork while it's been sat outside idle so I suspect this will be a reasonable solution though you do look a little strange polishing a car like this. Whenever I feel a bit exasperated by it I have to remind myself it's a 39 year old car that's spent 23 years off the road so it's not going to be an easy task getting it back into daily use. Happily, we're very nearly there and there's a good chance I'll have it mechanically in one piece again this weekend... if the weather is kind. scdan4, Banger Kenny and cort1977 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilA Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Little wonder the timing is a bit slack, if the chain is driving all that. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Hoping for a runner Renner this wkend Banger Kenny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 My poor little blue trolley, it was never designed to cope with my bullshit. It gained that war wound gallantly transporting the Renault's engine and gearbox to the engine bay so it could be battled into position. A late start and short days meant I didn't get as far as some and had to press on after darkness had fallen. Mike helped fight the last few bolts and such into place and Nugget the Corsa illuminated the scene. It is in. Finally. There's one stubborn balljoint nut that won't be sensible *spinspinspin* and tbh, it was getting difficult to see what I was doing. Engine mounts and gearbox mounts need tightening up and the various ancillaries plumbing in so a test run can be attempted. All of these are jobs for tomorrow if the weather continues to be agreeable. It's got to get easier from here, right? It's just got to. DeeJay, coalnotdole, cort1977 and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilA Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Banger Kenny, theorganist and vulgalour 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 FFS when is this flippin thing gonna fire up, I have been waiting for months, it's like the X factor finals which are always just one more sing-off/public vote/double-acting combo away, I can't take much more DeeJay and barefoot 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
They_all_do_that_sir Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Glad to see you got it in (ooh matron etc) watching with anticipation..... Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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