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Everything posted by MikeKnight

  1. Will this require lead additive? I'm assuming the head is cast iron. So yes in that case.
  2. Don't destroy your wrist on the cranking handle if it has one, you need that for work. 😋
  3. NO MORE BATTERY DRAIN, WOOHOO! No more charging the fucking thing every god damn night. New battery fixed the issue and I'm so glad I swapped it to UK configuration. However, I'm forced to put off doing the other work on this as my Rover 75, which has BRAND NEW front shocks.. is now creaking horribly on the front shocks.
  4. Oof that's lovely. I'm looking at flogging my Rover 75 and my diesel P38 to get a V8 P38 on LPG. Diesel P38's are just dreadfully slow noise machines.
  5. Modified the battery setup today so I can fit UK batteries. Nice thick bolts and good quality thick copper core. Don't want any fires now. 😜 I tested the battery to see if there was much of a drain. Here it is fully charged overnight but not connected yet. And here it is connected. 0.1V drop is acceptable, after all the security system does stay active and I think the boot was open at this point so there was a single bulb drawing power. Now just to see if it drops off overnight, in which case I'll know there's a bad drain or poor ground somewhere. I hope not though, I hate tracking down that shit. Next jobs are fixing the A/C system and reading codes so I can figure out why the minor fault (Service Vehicle Soon) dash light keeps coming on.
  6. I drained, flushed with a flushing solution (just in case) and refilled today. Although I think I may have been mistaken. Allow me to explain. I added another tablet for the sealing stuff they tell you to add.. and noticed the tablets are brown with glitter inside.. and the drained liquid from the radiator was brown with glitter inside. So I'm lead to believe it's the tablets making the coolant that colour and nothing was actually wrong with it! The air pocket release at the same time just made me panic I think. ----------------------------- I cannot find side bolt batteries of any decent quality or a name I trust, so I had to buy a normal battery today. I have some terminal adaptors but realised the normal terminal layout in the UK (positive on the right) is incorrect for this car as it has the positive on the left. So I've ordered some heavy gauge wire and I'll just extend the wires by a few inches. Bit of a faff but means I can use normal UK batteries.
  7. Bit miffed today as coolant level in the bottle, which has been fine, has gone down by half and appears brown and cloudy. It had stayed lovely and blue until now after I'd flushed and refilled. I have however been pushing the engine to test it and clear through the faults one by one, if this happened at high RPM I'm assuming it's just a bit of crap/air pocket that was left in the engine and I have nothing to worry about. Gonna keep an eye on it. Also going to perform a pressure test when I'm at the workshop on Monday.
  8. Hooray! So nice to see this back on the road and behaving. 😄
  9. I'm having lots of fun embarrassing barry boys. It's large so these wankers keep thinking its slow and try to overtake in their chavved out corsas. 4.9L V8 says no. Emasculation achieved. Back behind me, pleb. The Cadillac is ridiculously quick, but having a lead foot makes the MPG plummet to single figures. Also can't go around corners quickly. But straight line? It's a god damn rocket.
  10. I played with the equaliser on the radio and got it sounding pretty good but yeah, I'm eventually going to go the route of wiring all four speakers into a four way amp in the boot along with a boot sub. The radio already has two pre-amp outputs and a dedicated sub output so is perfect for this. I just can't be bothered doing it quite yet. Maybe next Spring before it goes back on the road again because there's no way in hell I'm driving this through Winter, it wheel spins like a nutcase even on dry roads.
  11. The ISO connectors I used are just basic ones. No illumination wire. Just speaker wires on one side and the other having +12, +12 switched, Ground and Antenna. I'm honestly not that bothered though as I've set the head unit to a nice cool blue colour scheme to match the interior and it's no brighter than the interior illumination. I fought with the speakers today and I'm exhausted. After a lot of swapping and testing I discovered there's nothing wrong with the speakers at all.. it's the wiring. The factory wiring is very complicated as each speaker used to have its own mini amplifier, a previous owner has gutted these and wired the speakers directly, but for some reason some of the speakers lack clarity because of it or sound like they're in a huge echoed room or underwater. The wiring I soldered to clean up his mess isn't the problem, as I used the same speaker wires he did. The problem is that these speaker wires likely go elsewhere and do other things, for example if I disconnect just one of the rear speakers they both go off. Quite confusing as they are indeed on their own lines (fader and balance tests proved this) so they must be using the same power line or ground line. This is extremely bad practice and you should not ever do this. I can fix this but it means using new speaker wires to wire all four in properly directly into the head unit ISO connector, dumping the use of the factory wires completely. I mean the speakers WORK, they're not awful, they're just not "clean". Dirty audio always pisses me off. I'll run new speaker wires when I can be bothered as if I'm doing that I may as well install all new speakers and just run the wires to an amplifier and subwoofer rather than the head unit. Fewer wires running all over the place and better sound quality. That can wait. After today I'm in no mood to start pulling carpets. The interior is quite fragile, especially the head lining where it meets the parcel shelf, every time you move the shelf you remove a little more headlining. I'll do it when I have all the parts together and am in the mood for it.
  12. It does, but I'll have to cut the connection and find where it is on the loom as the ISO connector lacks it. I have to remove the radio again to install the subwoofer cables so I don't mind doing this.
  13. I still have to replace the battery, it only holds just over 10V when idle, that's no good. But today at least I swapped the radio for my much nicer aftermarket Sony DAB one and cleaned up the wiring behind the dash. I had a spare standard ISO harness so I soldered that in so in future any modern radio should fit. I can't go back to the original radio unfortunately as the wiring had been chopped so much. Here's a before picture. The plastic connectors on the left are from the original radio and are unused. They're for things like dimming the screen when the headlights are on. Also for the two tiny speakers in the dashboard, which are sadly unused but I may rewire them in at a later date to ride off the door speakers. Previous owner had tied the yellow and pink wires together, yellow is ignition power and pink is the powered aerial. No wonder it was always coming up regardless of radio condition. Pet peev of mine. The orange wire roughly in the middle of the pic is constant power which I had to uncover, he had not used it. Explains the memory loss on the radio. It only had power when the ignition was on. Here's an after picture with the new soldered ISO harness. Much cleaner. The Sony connector simply attaches to this then to the radio. I soldered the constant power and ignition power to the correct wires on the ISO harness so the radio retains a memory but powers on and off with the ignition as it should do. The powered aerial wire was also soldered to its own connector so the radio controls when that comes up and down. Radio off, it goes back down. Good. I enjoy doing stuff like this. It takes a while to tag all the wires to find out what they are and where they go, but the end result is immensely satisfying. The speakers are still shit but swapping them over is a job for tomorrow. I decided not to install the under-seat subwoofer I removed from the Supra, one because it was too wide to fit under there but also because the boot is enormous so I want a boot sub instead. EDIT: I forgot to mention, don't be horrified at the enormous hole the radio sits in. There's quite a nice surround that clips in around it to give it a factory fitted look. I just didn't take a picture of the radio installed.
  14. I found the problem when I removed the head unit today. I'm swapping it for the one in my Supra, along with the subwoofer, because I like my tunes and the Supra will be going up for sale. Both red and yellow lines are spliced into the same feed. Although this should mean it always has power... unless that single splice is from a purely ignition system. It probably is. Honestly don't know if I want to rip the dash apart fixing this. It's difficult and fragile. I'll dig a little bit more tomorrow with my multimeter. I want to d some soldering anyway because the guy who did the conversion originally used a million scotch locks. Ugh.
  15. Oh I almost forgot to mention, I fixed the speakers! I mean they're still shit, but at least they work now. When someone re-wired them they simply twisted the wires on the ends.. and they'd fallen off.. 😑 I'll swap them out for some decent speakers when I can be bothered. One oddity is the head unit forgets all its settings every time the car is turned off, meaning I have to re-enter them. Bet he's wired it to a constant live and not the ignition live. It's a typical amateur mistake.
  16. Tried to get the A/C re-gassed today but the compressor isn't engaging its clutch for some reason. Might be seized. Thankfully the workshop book tells you certain pins to short in order to bypass its control system and engage anyway, so I can determine if the sensor or the compressor itself is at fault. Also the high pressure side valve is leaking and it might have a fail-safe that stops it engaging in this case, so I'll change the valve out first. I cleaned inside the car today, it was a long day, it was so bad.. so so bad.. I don't even want to think about it.. I've probably picked up consumption from it.. Anyway, I cleaned the carpets and found all this yummy coffee! Anyone for espresso? A really good crema head on this one! 😁☕ SERIOUSLY THE CAR WAS FILTHY FUCKING FILTHY It's at home now at least, fully insured and taxed. Was only £180 for the whole year fully comprehensive. I'm going to need a new battery though, even though still displaying its green "I'm okay!" light this one doesn't seem to hold as charge very long.
  17. Nope! At least I hope not.. as it's not insured yet. Won't be back on the road legally until tomorrow (14th).
  18. I did a bit of reading up on the tablets you add (I used the "proper" AC Delco ones that Cadillac recommended) and apparently it was more to secure the block than the radiator. The workshop manual goes into more detail and I don't have that here at home, something about the specific wet liners needing to be sealed. I've never heard that before on any wet liner cars I've had but it's American and Americans are weird.
  19. Still got to sort a solution for the door speakers. They're a custom size inside a plastic enclosure, stupid-ass BOSE macguffins. Normal speakers don't fit. Hmm. It's supposed to have rear shelf speakers too but I dont remember hearing anything from the back when I tried. I do have the original head unit but the modern unit installed is a good quality SONY one so I think I'll leave that in for now. I do like my tunes so sorted speakers are the new priority. Current ones do work after a fashion but mostly sound like they're underwater.
  20. New (left) and old (right). New one was half the weight. I dread to think how much silt is still in the old one, even after a good flush. YAY! Clean running water! First time this car has had clean liquid running in it in many a year. It had two flsuhes (one chemical flush, one plain water) then the water changed out for good blue coolant and some of the required* supplement tablets added too. The car is now running without leaks and currently parked up outside while my workshop floor dries from the insane scrubbing I gave it today, it was bloody filthy. Going to pop the car back in on Monday and clean the tits off it inside and out, then it can go home and go into service wherein it'll be my daily driver for a while so I can work out all its bugs and make sure it's truly road worthy. The 4.9L V8 monster this car uses to drive it around is also a lot quieter and happier from an oil change. The old oil was black. How the fuck do people let things get that bad. Oh, wait, right, it's because they're morons who don't care.
  21. BLOODY HELL, THE RADIATOR HAS ARRIVED HOW??? I checked and it definitely did not come from the UK. Has US stickers all over it. Did they send it by personal private jet??? Very impressed.
  22. I paid extra for quick shipping. £65 for the rad and £70 for shipping. Fucking hell. This car. It's a good thing I love it. ---------------- Also I put it in neutral and tried to push it. I could not. Not even when bracing on the wall. It is the heaviest car I have ever owned.
  23. Got the radiator back today, was flushed really well and I was happy with the repair. Unfortunately the car had other ideas. Once I got it reconnected, the pressure moving to a different part of the rad that hadn't had pressure in it for ages made the plastic end tank crack with a fizzing POP. Well fuck. Guess I have no choice but to buy a new one now. Also might call the car Epstein as it's probably had hookers in the back at some point and it tried to kill me while making it look like suicide. Just ordered one from Rockauto, should be here early next week so I can get on with the ungrateful bastard and get it home. The shipping cost more than the radiator itself.
  24. The radiator has been repaired by another Eddy at a radiator repair place I use all the time. Turns out it was 3/4 filled with silt, rust, and crap from the moron previous owner running it entirely on tap water. So that was making it over-pressurise and blow water through the end tank seals. The end tanks are plastic with essentially giant rubber o-rings for sealing so high pressure would do this. Hope to have it back together and running in a few days. 🤗
  25. The R134a conversion kit comes with a plunger and oil that apparently neutralises the old R12 mineral oil and lubricates the seals to accept R134a. But hey I've never tried a conversion kit before so we'll see what happens. I've heard good things about this kit though.
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