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PhilA

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Everything posted by PhilA

  1. That has to have a lifespan measured in minutes. 6 Watts in a miniscule package like that- yeah, LED is a good solution. Also, I have a few pieces of equipment with the very same illuminated buttons they used on the trip computer. Funny to see.
  2. Yup, '64 Fairlane I went look at was unassisted drums all around. My Chieftain is drums all round, and at 3300lbs (1.5 ton) the fronts fill up the 15" rims. Adjusted correctly they're pretty good. Not adjusted correctly they are terrifyingly bad- you get either brakes that you feel sticking your foot out the door would be more effective or brakes that snatch and lock the wheel solid at a rather arbitrary point in the pedal travel. At least discs just get worse when they aren't maintained well
  3. Yeah, the sides of my Jeep have about the same orange peel as what you determined wasn't good enough, and it rolled out the door like that to be sold. You are going for Better Than New, for sure. Ford would have gone bankrupt if they spent the time, care and effort you have on this car. --Phil
  4. I've been directed towards a guy who professionally rebuilds Trico wiper motors and he's not that bad in terms of price. I think that may be a viable option. I cleaned and reassembled the wiper motor. The paddle is a slightly tighter fit but still doesn't make adequate contact all the way around as the rubber is old, worn and perished. I tried hooking up the vacuum canister to see if the extra stored vacuum (aren't privatives funny, how can you store nothingness?) but that had little effect. It got dark so to actually do something productive I pulled the car out onto the street and set the headlight aim correctly. I also pulled the parking brake on and drove down the street with that extra load, which burned all the crap out of the cylinders. I had a thought and parked up, chocked the wheels, put the brakes on and brought the engine up to the stall speed of the fluid coupling in Drive. I then set the ignition timing for maximum engine RPM. That's a way to make it get warm quickly. There's a little mayo on the oil filler cap so short runs in this humid weather means a lot of moisture had collected inside the engine. I think I have it about right because now, from about 1000 RPM if I blip the throttle the engine revs up faster than the tacho needle can keep up and it screeches the fanbelt momentarily. I also noticed, with the lights off that the turn signal arrows were blinking in time with the ignition, rather odd. I pulled the connectors off the bulbs at the front and it went away so the wiring is collecting the RF energy from the ignition system and the balance of the system is so that the LED bulbs are illuminated slightly (which really doesn't take much at all). I think I'll change them out for incandescent bulbs. It does show the system is noisy though so that needs to be addressed. New plugs, wires, condenser and points should help. Phil
  5. What type of bulb is it? 5W capless? Would one of the Chinesium "hyper-bright" green LED's to fit any Honda/Subaru/Nissan pocket-rocket suit purpose?
  6. The itty bitty sidelight has a small bit of lens off to the side that I'm sure satisfies side-on marker illumination- the indicator portion being made red satisfies the retro-reflector portion being red at the rear (red turn signal being common-ish here, more so in Canada). --Phil
  7. Sorted the seal on the washer pump. Think I should also be able to improve the wipers. Ultimately the motor needs a rebuild but I should be able to improve it a little. Cleaned the points, set the timing, set the mixture a little better. Need a thermostat. Phil
  8. Not quite @paulplom standard but hopefully good enough. Hand bent the vacuum lines. No idea as to the original routing but this made sense. Oil pressure line has a gentle coil, vacuum line split and connected with rubber vacuum hose (needs clamps). Made up a little piece to screw down to the firewall, with a piece of rubber hose around each pipe to protect it. The oil pressure line has the original coiled spring cover over it which is nice. Hopefully that'll do. Need to run a wire up the same way for the oil pressure switch, going to install a light for that as a secondary warning. Phil
  9. It's always a scary prospect taking abrasives to paint but the results can be really rewarding. I had to give a wry smile at "now it looks like a professional job", like it didn't before... Phil
  10. Re the rear lights - the US models did not have a separate orange section, instead it was all red, but it appears they used the same mould to make the UK lamps. You may find the tail light actually shines sideways enough to conform (unless there's actually a position for a 5W bulb back there) and normally the lamp has its own lens, unobscured by the retroreflector. Please take more photos. I like these cars. There's something aesthetically pleasing about the shape of the headlights, too. --Phil
  11. I plumbed in the wipers and washer bottle. The seals have shrunk and it all doesn't work very well again. We'll see how long it lasts before I sack it off and install electrical wipers and washer pump... Phil
  12. With equal length exhaust headers, correctly tuned- it would sound just like two 4-cylinder engines running beside each other... Phil
  13. Yes. A single 3 watt bulb that illuminates a sheet of acrylic mostly edge-on, with the words cast in to the sheet, and the backs painted black and the text painted white. The principle is sound and still used today, though nice thick plastic makes it look "jeweled", which is really pleasing to look at both illuminated internally and from an external light source. Phil
  14. Bought some tube and fittings. Hooked up the oil pressure line to the gauge. Needs a couple P clips to hold it in place. Now all my gauges work. Phil
  15. Haha no. But it will be going there at some point for a chocolate malt Phil
  16. Runs much better now. Still needs a tune-up but that's so much better now. Phil
  17. That's part of the reason I am thinking about it- the intakes are very unequal length and the far end cylinders have a habit of leaning out at higher RPM. Having either an injector per port or a carburetor per port/2 ports would also work. That represents 550cc per cylinder. The volume drawn is not huge in terms of CFM because the top speed of the engine is fairly low (3750 RPM) so a moderately small injector with a finer spray pattern would probably help. I was considering TBI because that would allow me to retain the hotspot but it doesn't address the runner lengths. From the port itself the Y split is visible so having an injector underneath pointing upwards towards it should work well enough (likely better than the carburetor). Phil
  18. That's a traffic light lens. From the driver's seat, with the sun visor fitted to the outside of the car it becomes very difficult to see overhead traffic lights (the norm here) without leaning forward a long way. The lens gives a very wide upward view, allowing traffic lights to be seen from a regular seated driving position. As above (library picture) Phil
  19. No, because the Megasquirt folks haven't figured out siamesed intakes, stating impossibru with port fuel injection Phil
  20. Carburetor and points for now. (FFS points). Wanged the head back on. Set the tappets by eye. Ended up having to scrub the hell out of the points. Bueno. Phil
  21. Rusty Fairlane distraction out of the way, I plan on getting back to this and reassembling the engine. However, in the interim I am having naughty thoughts about fuel injection and electronic ignition. Somebody stop me. Phil
  22. Haha. 200ci six, Fordomatic 2 speed, single barrel carb. It did crank over and had oil pressure but it didn't want to run. Solid (ish) underneath, absolutely rotten as a pear up top. Moral of the story? Don't park your car under a tree, kids. Bottom of the wings all totally solid, solid arches, solid sills... 56000 miles. Shame. (It had ants, spiders, frogs and mice too)
  23. Doesn't have 289 badges. Waiting for seller, but in the cold light of day... The scrap man calleth, I think.
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