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dieselassist

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  1. first gen' tesla's are 'technically rear engined' - the power electric unit being in the back AFAIK - I used to watch a few of them 'rich rebuilds' youtube vids (before he became really unbearable) where he takes apart/rebuilds salvage testlas with a kitchen kinife spoon etc - that's how I know...LOL
  2. ...this all sound very shifty to me; theres something motorviating her to constantly pester you re the 300; is it possible shes paid in the money via a forged bank draft? there are some forged bank drafts these days that even fool the bank for 6 or 12 months, n its not till then that they attempt to unravel whole paper trail ... for me once a deposit is put down, that's binding both to you and the seller; renege n you've lost the deposit, or if your the seller, its your right to keep it - this is an unspoken agreement of terms; Ive been on the receiving end of both sides of the deposit agreement; ive just had to suck it up n move on...
  3. dieselassist

    Ford timelord

    ive just spent the last few hrs going through this thread; facinating n enthralling stuff altogether!! fair play datsuncog et all for all the ongoing research ...
  4. ...they seem to be expanding tho; ECP; they bought up the PR Reilly brand over here; the PR reilly brand used to focus on the 'order n delivery' to the trade/garages; a mate of mine works in a factors in the same town as they operate, n the delivery lads are constantly in buying bits from them, as presumably they don't have the stock at the time to supply the requested parts to the trade lads...
  5. ...a lot of these firms seem to use the same business model; ECP, GSF etc; you need to tap in the reg' of your car n the internet 'site wizardry' does the rest, n you take it for granted the parts they display in eg; the suspension page it generates, will be for you car... ...I found this not to be the case with 'micks garage' when buying some bits for my Audi avant B^ tdi- I selected 'mid quality' brand ARB rubber insert n it was delivered along with other bits... long story short the ARB rubber was for a saloon; theres a difference between the two even tho the fronts look common to both.... I gave a good aul fist at trying to press it in there, but it was too big, as I later discovered with the vernier calipers but the steel jacketed ARB bushing was well chewed at that stage... it was all of €13 but I thought id go through the pointlessness of ringing up MG and explain their fugg'up... the customer services lad didn't want to know at all; he stated it was up to me to cross reference parts no's (how TF id be able to do this with the likes of QH brand stuff, i'll never know), and also he wasn't going to accept it as a return as I'd mullered it attempting to fit it n it was out of their packaging... ...as said above, theres a lot to be said for supporting your local independent factors; if only for time saved; in the end I just bought the right ARB rubber from a local factors; I cant see myself using MG again...
  6. ...the mazdas cant cope with anything above '80-85%' clagged up DPF - yes the injectors seem to fail n leak off, n the EGR snuffs it round this time; some mazda dealerships will change the EGR n fit new injectors n tell the customer, that they are not driving it long enough for the Reg'gen to kick in, after they've reset all after new injectors etc- n tell them to drive on an otherwise pointless 70 mile round tripp once a week to 'clean out n regen' (knowing they'll seew the customer gain very soon!) - or 'off the record' a technician might recommend one of the 'DPF washout' outfits.... all of that lasts about 4-6k Miles before it goes into limp mode again, n the has to owner 'rinse n repeat' DPF regen 'ground'hog day' processes or swallow the cost of a new DPF... I know of a mate who's mrs had the DPF stolen from under the car n he bought a used one from stoved car at a breakers n its still working fine for him... Ive done a few DPF gut out jobs; on the actual opening up n gutting out' the DPF innards - all ive seen hopelessly clogged n you'd wonder how the car exhaled at all with all the clagg... if you get the right 'car software keyboard tapper' to remap etc after its been gutted; the car is transformed n is hugely reliable afterwards, with lots more power n MPG.... ...from what ive seen 170-200K is the usual life of the DPF but that's reduced if its been a short run commuter/city based car....
  7. fiat tipo or Uno lacking wipers/wiper mechanism??
  8. @jonathan_dayane (didn't feel like clogging up the thread quoting)- that looks similar to the way mk1 focus's rot in that area; a longwinded n intricate sort of welding job- I sacked off doing it on my mates mk1,5 focus in that area on both sides of the boot floor; the strut towers were also cornflake consistency after hammer strike testing... his also had sill perorations so the car got condemned; anyways fair play for metal kitting all that back together; looks like a decent job...
  9. c'est ca!! ...six is an acceptable no; same as myself (I think!), tho I have a few 'halves' which are either car bodies/shells so I don't count them... I try to stay away from 'odd number of cars' as it creates 'storage anomalies ' so I aim for the even numbers; rarely sell one but a new purchase gets me into the even numbers again- you have to have a system as harry hill says...
  10. it will work well as a car; my mate who had a few of them reckoned the prop removed/FWD consversion was better for his general MPG n he mentioned tyres lasting longer, after he changed to road only tyres n he lived in 'big time stickZ'; he liked to buy a breaker that didn't have its prop removed tho as he reckoned the coupling wear in its past life had transferred to rear diff n with it removed after many miles; the undriven rear diff was likely to even more severely worn n leakey... On the diesel theres one of the glow plugs that unremovable unless the pump is off; he was down at mine with cold cranking/catching issues n the glowplug behind the pump was well older than the rest n stuck; I managed to heat n bend a spanner to remove it after heating it, but there wasn't enough space to physically remove the plug- from memory its was 2000 era... I welded on some off-road OLLI looking tubular steel side steps with checker plate inserts he got off one of his breakers onto his one; they were so bent n the holes didn't line up so I I just welded them on; utter poinlessness vanity but that's what he wanted done.... theres a 'hippo's forum' - hippos are their knickname he used to be on he mentioned, some 'good info' was on there, is the forum is still going...
  11. ...I still have a bucket of bolts in the unit from helping a mate break freelanders; he had one himself and used to buy the odd one or two, which were cheap as breakers; the pitch n thread of nearly every bolt that comes off them; ive never found a use for apart from the odd BMW; in many ways they seemed massively over-engineered n in other areas very half arsed- eg the viscous couplings; he had some china contact n he used to remarket the 'recon'd couplings, even tho his own had the 'fwd only' viscous coupling delete; he had a few plates made up n used to sell them - they were needed after the rear prop delete... ...anyways they were 7 or 8 year old cars at this time but he used to managed to sell everything off the breaker ones; especially the diesel LWB ones; I though he was mad when he first got into them, but he used to make good coin off the breakers; I didn't think irish folk were masochistic enough to keep them going, but I was proved wrong - a big seller was the auto window rear tailgate...
  12. in the vag selection ,,,avoid that Passat and the mk5 platform jetta you pictured -most likely to be 2l diesel n it might even be a BXE engine one; if its motor has survived; if your into 'car one'up manship' with your workmates/ neighbours n want a later plate car adorning your drive; a late skoda 1.9tdi of octavia or superb badging might suit; bur they aren't the best lookers, aesthetically speaking - then again; who cares... Ive an 04 audi a4 b6 tdi 115bhp avant as a daily n I cant really fault it- eats up the miles; has 370k km on it at the moment - the usualy 1.9PD TDi reliability n terminator like indestructability; you can buy a newer version of the same car as the Seat Exeo in avant form; which is a b6 audi that they've put a different face n arse on - but will be 'newer plate'.... heres an older pic of my audi b6 avant; Ive since sacked of them Chinese RS? replica rims - as they all leaked air/two were dangerously cracked, n fitted a set of cheap skoda 5 spokes rims to it; completely bucking the trend of the look of these older audis when find their way eventually in the hands of the penniless /on the mean streets
  13. ...looks like a clean enough t25 from the pics; if the 1.9d 'engine conversion' has a lucas pump, is likely from a 90s '6N' polo, or a skoda fabia originally- AEF code usually for the polo variant; with 1y's being in thin on the ground these days or buying a donor car in haste as it 'has a 1.9D' in it - some folk end up fitting the AEF to upgrade the stock 1.6d; the 1.9D in polos n the old skoda fabias leans forward its a bit less straight forward than the golf/vento 1y to retrofit to a t25, but some folk get it to fit even with the auxiliary belts differences between the AEF n 1Y, but from memory if theres a 'dummy powersteering pump' (lines blocked off from it) - if the t25 doesnt have p/s - only a few late ones did; its a polo derived AEF - the belt system on them has to incorporate a p/s pump in polo form; folk fitting them to a t25 just fill the p/s pump innards with grease/atf seal it up n treat it as a belt idler - which can burst the nose seal in use... I forget all the details but it should be all on the club8090 wiki on how to fit an AEF... ...yon astra polshed up nice BTW
  14. ...it shouldnt be too hard to remove any aftermarket immobiliser stuff from one of these; these seem to use either black or white 'numbered' wires, or really thin coloured wire, the same grade you find in a 90s household telephone; the often fit them by saddling the wires, or at the back of the fuseboard snipping the wires to the fuel pump n connecting them onto the 'mystery box' with the flashing LED ...you should be able to identify the thicker factory wiring n resolder the connections- it is very time consuming n fiddly but 'very do0able'... ...I was once called upon to remove an alarm/immobiliser from a mk2 GTI that started life as LHD, m was converted to RHD by a previous owner who was a mechanic; to extend the colum, switches and instrument loom he just used 'whatever' colour wire the right length to extend the wires; It was therefor 'doubly confusing' ....the car was a non starter for two years n the owner was ready to give up on it....- I managed to get the immobiliser n alarm out n tidy up the loom extension a bit; I had 'all night' in a unit in an industrial estate to do it... I managed to get the car started; much to the owners surprise...
  15. have you checked the coil n the wiring to the coil? A mate of mine has a mk1 gti tintop n it had similar 'running n idling like shit' woes; he has a few of these mk1 gti's so went the usual route here of 'swopping metering heads' about between cars, which didn't solve the problem - he eventually had it trailered away 120 miles to an old school specialist who diagnosed n fixed the coil wiring... there seems to be a thriving market here for 'metering heads' - my mate above buys them as spares, n they are often robbed out cars fellas have in storage... We've a DX stashed away for years for my brothers 'bought engineless' years ago 84 mk1 cabriolet project; got the tank fuel system n full wiring loom from a 38k miles mk2 scirocco I bought cheap; engine's been out n sat up a few years; hes anxious to get the ball rolling on it soon; its one of those rare occasions where I will 'relish' the wiring side but FEAR putting all the mechanicals in making them work... !!
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