St.Jude

1 hour ago, mk2_craig said:

I'd have thought this is two or three years too old for standard fit immobiliser. So hopefully that's one variable that can be eliminated. 

Tbh if you're not able to put in a proper fault finding session I'd say it's well worth getting a decent auto electrician on the case, as there seems to be multiple potentially fragile items that could be creating these issues.  There will no doubt be viable workarounds or substitute components that would get the car back in the game, but it needs a meticulous and methodical approach.  Otherwise, we're in guessing game territory here. 

This is, and always has been the problem. I knew I wouldn't have time for a basketcase car because of family commitments and having to spend time on the house. This was meant to be a runner and be great etc. But it's not, it's far from that relatively speaking. If you think that to get an MOT a car needs to be at least 20% as good as it was when it left the factory, I don't think we're in double digits with this. 

I agree that if I've not got the time to be methodical and go through every nut with it I should get an auto electrician. But that's money I'm not even going to entertain spending on this, I've not got it anyway. I can only see myself having a good block of time (like a day) to spend on this from Feb/March next year. It really can't stay not running that long either.

32 minutes ago, mercedade said:

I think if the immobiliser is stuck on, you get a red light on the dash (well, you do on the Mk2/facelift anyway).

You might also get a single parp from the horn when locking/unlocking - that'll tell you the immobiliser hasn't turned off

I don't think I can see a red light on the dash (other than the oil and the ECU), and I don't get the parp from the horn.

Maybe there is no immobilizer then. I'll GLADLY take a hammer to the starter when I'm at it next and see if that does anything.

19 minutes ago, loserone said:

Am I missing why it's not something simple like the starter solenoid stuck, or the starter earth dead? 

 

Sorry if you checked all that five pages ago

.... well I mean, if I thought of checking that....

1 hour ago, Dave_Q said:

Have you tried any dangerbodge stuff like trying to jump the battery directly to the starter with a jump lead?

If the ignition lights are doing the right dance and it's something on the starter circuit, as a first step to try and get it running you could bypass the whole thing and run your own circuit with a relay and a big red button labelled "startyabastard"

I guess I will next time I'm at it after I've sorted my will.

24 minutes ago, DaveDorson said:

When you say won't turn over, are you getting any crank at all and no fire, or no crank whatsover?

I’m getting sweet fuck all from it. I turn the key and I can hear a relay click but that’s it. It’s deader than a can of spam.

I am going to study the electrical diagram this week and see what else is there that could be amiss. The ECU light comes on and then goes off which indicates all of the checks it’s done are fine. So as far as the ECU is concerned, I think, there are no problems.

On 9/9/2023 at 1:28 PM, RoverFolkUs said:

This company retained all such data when MG Rover went bust. Worth a try? 

http://www.mgrccservices.com/services/emergency-key-access-codes/

Will give these a call today and see what they can provide me with.

On 9/9/2023 at 2:35 PM, Wgl2019 said:

Similar issue maybe?

Maybe, it’s possible. But it’d be nearly £200 to find out. I did contemplate buying it on the basis of using it for the Lada if/when I plonk the K Series in it. But again it’s a lot of money for something I wouldn’t use a lot.

No good. It’s too hot too to Jack it up and take the gear selector off to see if that’s the issue.

If it’s not the gear selector then fuck knows what’s the matter. The ECU isn’t giving codes, the light goes off so the ECU is happy. But it just won’t turn over. I suspect the fuel relay is toast and I’m going to replace that relay with the new one I bought and see if that at least engages the fuel pump.

36 minutes ago, grogee said:

Try his code? There's not enough combinations of 4 digit for every 800 to be different. 

You get 3 goes and then you’re locked out for 30 minutes.

Ive deciphered the VIN and the 11th character is an M. It ends with 6 numbers though, so I’ve just wrote down the 3 groups I could make from it and we’ll see how we go.

So I was minding my business last night watching Project Nigel and he has a Rover 800 displaying the same non-start issues as mine. He then mentions an EAK Code, puts it in the door, and it works. Since found out there’s a 4 digit code you put in to the door (turn it X times to lock, turn it Y times to unlock, Z times lock, AA times unlock) and that resets the immobiliser and the car starts. 

I didn’t know about the code. And I’ve looked with the papers I’ve got for a code… and I don’t have one.

So I need to find this code or find a way to reset it. Although this chap on a random website thinks this could work…

7 minutes ago, Matty said:

Drive looks well. Are you still k seriesing it and are you going to rhd it as well?

Thank you! It’s only temporary, for however long temporary lasts.

The plan is still to K Series it, if it’s workable. I think dimensions wise it fits but there’s a lot of things outside of that to dictate what happens.

Im going to keep it LHD. Got to do these things to put me off going through drive thrus 😂

Nikita is finally in its “home” for the duration of the work that’s needed.

My plan has always been to work clockwise around the car, which is just as well because the car cover (are related thread) wasn’t waterproof and it’s suffered from it. More photos during the week.

Need to get my welding cart built now!

Well, well, well. Guess what’s broken?

The drivers side air bag has gone pop again! Same way as before, I see the bracket has bent down. Pulling out from a friends driveway, 90 degree turn pulling to 40mph. I heard something go “TUNG”, it felt weird, I thought it was from the front but the springs look fine.

So that’s it. Garage who did the work before have been emailed about it, but that’s the last I’m spending on it. Once it’s fixed it’s going to AutoTrader.

On 8/24/2023 at 9:25 PM, dcd1979 said:

Collected this morning, and looks like it will scrub up well

One day, that Fabia will end up towing the Range Rover.

Great rescue!

13 minutes ago, Dick Longbridge said:

Good to hear you still intend to continue to unpick the ungrateful old bastard at some point anyway. It's a decent looking motor.

It’s more of a going concern if it works!

Im not even annoyed not spending time on it because I knew I wouldn’t have the time to sort issues with it to begin with. So it is what it is.

12 minutes ago, Dick Longbridge said:

Any updates on the 827?

Nope. Nothing.

I’ve not been near it really as every weekend something else has happened. Some weekends my mom has come to mine (so no need to go to her), various family things, the garage I’ve been working on, this weekend I’ve been doing the driveway to have the Lada on stilts.

Id imagine some point in September I’ll go and have a look at it. 

17 minutes ago, Dave_Q said:

He wishes she'd go 300 hectares on a single tank of kerosene 

You're not wrong! But I am getting a steady 28mpg from it.

So it’s been over two years since I was at the side of the road with no wipers after buying the car. 

Today I put 500kgs of sand, cement etc in the back of it, with nearly 2,000 miles put on it since the suspension was sorted.

It’s behaving itself so far, but it looked a bit on the wonk before the bags went in. Can’t work out if it’s the car park it was on or not.

I will say though that the harsh ride does tend to come back a bit, but putting it to H and then back sorts it. I don’t think the 3rd party height sensors are doing their job properly.

12 hours ago, richykitchy said:

Taking everything in my power to stop myself doing a react video to that.

Only if you get the Roy Hattersley puppet from Spitting Image and do the whole thing as him, Doug impersonations too, because that is the particular puppet that rubber faced clown reminds me of.

4 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Clearly the car gods decided that an MOT pass was simply too much luck for your own good, so gave you another dose of misfortune 🤣

Indeed. It was going too well for too long!

Maybe I’m cursed.

Several things happened here.

I thought I had wedged the wood properly so it wouldn’t move. It didn’t, side ways at least.

Went a different way home that involved a country lane.

Met some cunt who thought nothing of coming down a blind hill at speed. My brakes work very well, stops on a dime. Stops too well.

Dashcam doesn’t work.

Its running well besides!

10 hours ago, mat_the_cat said:

At least you know it's had a good going over. 

Every time I see this thread pop up, I think to myself "WTF has broken now?!"

When the tester told me it had passed I genuinely said “you sure?”.

I wasn’t expecting a fail, but I wasn’t thinking it’d be so good either. So believe me when something happens I too think “WTF has broken now” 😂

Son of Terminator didn’t do anything. They all passed.

And so did the money pit. The tester couldn’t fault it, just mentioned the rear brake disc are getting thin but not thin enough for an advisory.

It’s MOT day.

Well it would be, but today the garage I’m using is being inspected by VOSA. Was originally booked for 8:30 but the bloke was stressed doing a demo test and asked if I could go back at 3:30. I said fine.

I’m here and the VOSA guy is still here. The guy is still stressed, and apparently this guy’s dad was a VOSA man and called “the terminator”.

It is interesting to see though I must say.

9 minutes ago, artdjones said:

Toyota parts prices are vicious. @St.Juderecently got shocks for his air suspended Land Cruiser from Australia, and after duty and carriage for 12000 miles still made a vast saving.

Can confirm.

Toyota wanted £1,800 for a pair of rear shocks for the Land Cruiser (as they're electronically adjustable things). Cheapest I found in the UK was nearly £500 for one. With the import duty, delivery, I bought two proper Toyota shocks for my truck for about £330.

I was going to suggest Amayama but you've already found out about them @davehedgehog31. I can also recommend Foreign Car Spares in Birmingham. They were helpful when I was getting a fuel filler neck for the RAV4. They only deal in Japanese cars and are reasonably priced.

3 minutes ago, somewhatfoolish said:

Definitely in the category of "switch it off then back on again M9"; take the win and tell everyone you knew it would work. 😁

But it’s more fun saying it’s cursed 😂

13 hours ago, Gaffer said:

read this from start to finish and quite like this thing.

You quite like it? You absolute sadist!

10 hours ago, SiC said:

Probably needed to reset itself when you cycled the positions? 

Perhaps over inflated after the previous work (from being on a lift) and it only lets it out once cycled. That said, I'd thought they would cycle it on the ground after the work to double check it all worked. 

I’d have thought they’d have done that too. Maybe they have, that’s why I’m saying it’s cursed. Even driving out of the place the ride was crap. But I had been that long without driving it I couldn’t say whether it was right or not. The height has been constant as well so it’s not collapsed.

10 hours ago, Rust Collector said:

Your Mrs is riding in the car, that she is critical of, with possessed air suspension on a family outing, and you decided to press the ride height switch!!

You must be the bravest man alive and I’m glad that on this occasion your bravery was rewarded.

Well in my head it’s already fucked, and if it shat itself again at least she had her mocha to keep her distracted.

10 hours ago, Mrcento said:

So it was needing calibrated?, Makes sense really given all the issues it was having before. Something that's often overlooked on Land Rovers air suspension as well, they need properly re-calibrated after suspension work or sensors get changed or the ride has much more chop in it than it should.

Glad it was something so simple in the end.

No idea. Google hasn’t helped, there’s no mention (I could find) of calibrating it. All the other posts are on about removing them etc.