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juular last won the day on December 25 2021

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Rank: Citroen Ami

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  1. Right hand drive Trafic / Vivaro etc vans. Used the same engine bay layout as the LHD with the brake master cylinder on the left, but with a big bar along the width of the van going from the brake pedal to the back of the master cylinder. Not really an issue as such but it does add a little bit of slop to the brake pedal Vs the LHD versions.
  2. 205 welding done. Just needs paint. The CV boot I cleaned , degreased then sealed up a small slit with some tigerseal as advised by the tester. @Lacquer Peel helped diagnose the rear brake issue as being the shoes needing adjusted closer to the drums. It doesn't seem like the auto adjustment setup actually works very well. Anyway, both the handbrake and the pedal feel a lot better now so hopefully that's another one off the list. The oil leak isn't an oil leak, so I'll clean up the bottom of the engine and hopefully that will get scored off the sheet. Hoping to get this back in for a retest over the weekend. I did find some time to give the 240 some attention. The clips for the hockey stick trim were all broken so I ordered replacements from Brookhouse, which as usual came quickly with some free sweets. All of the trim looked so tired so this got me into a bit of detailing. Clay bar. A coat of black paint on the sills to see it through. New valve caps. A good polish, wash and wax followed by a load of linseed oil on the plastics. It's amazing how quickly this rejuvenates old plastic. Interior cleaned out and polished up with Flash Dash. It's starting to look alright! Ride height aside. Finally, I refitted the badges. So all of that is just to make it a little bit more presentable, but in the longer term I still have a lot to do. I need to fix the paint on the boot lid as it's quite badly stripped by some kind of chemical. The sills and door pillars need some body coloured paint. The front wings need a bit of touching up at the sill level and paint. The doors need a bit of welding at the lower inner skins. Finally I need to go over the bits I've rattlecanned with some wet and dry, get a proper machine polisher on it with someone that knows what they're doing (hi @Split_Pin!) , and try and get some more of the decades old crud out of the paint. I've ordered some more paint, just need to find the motivation to get it sorted.
  3. Decided to take a punt on an early MOT for the 205. The corrosion fails were somewhat expected. The CV boot just needs cleaned up apparently. The oil leak isn't an oil leak, it's leftover from when I changed the fuel pump and the car had been previously fuelled with [undefined], and it ran all down the back of the engine. The brakes are an odd one as it has a new master cylinder and the system has been pressure bled. I've had one of the wheel cylinders off and it seemed to work OK, so that's going to need investigation. As for the rust, guess where my weekend went. This. Turned into This. Likewise for the other side. A lot of this has come about from shitty previous repairs as seen here. This is why you don't bang a patch over rust. It just makes it worse. The nearside took a fair chunk of metal. The wind really picked up and I could no longer weld using gas, so I went out and bought a roll of flux core. That was a bit of an experiment as I'd never tried it before, but it actually turned out pretty well. It's messy in some places, but it's strong. I had to turn the voltage right down as it penetrates far further than the shielded welds, but that's no bad thing. Driver's side. The rust on the driver's side extended down to the front panel, which has a coolant hose running up against it. So I had to dump the coolant before I cut it off. I guess I should've found a bigger bucket.. Front panel cut out. New panel tacked in. I ran out of time to finish this off, so I'll have to find some gaps in the weather this week to get it sorted so that I can get the free retest. On the plus side the car won't have a single bit of corrosion left once this is done.
  4. This, it saves a whole shitload of time in the long run just to cut first.
  5. Strathcarron hospice? Furniture Collection | Strathcarron Hospice
  6. Oh yeah, if I'm using an off-the-shelf repair panel, I mark a point on the car way beyond the damaged section and cut the length of the repair panel roughly to that point. Then I lay / clamp the repair panel over the whole area and cut through both layers. That way the cutout and the repair panel should fit exactly.
  7. I cut first, so that I'm sure that all the bad metal is out. I take lots of photos just in case I'm not sure how it goes back together but it's usually fairly obvious. I then put the duct tape on, and run a finger around the perimeter of the hole to copy the line onto the tape. I then highlight it with a sharpie. I also mark any intended bends or curves onto the tape for future reference. I peel the tape off, stick it onto the steel and cut round it using aviation snips. It's not 100% accurate as the tape does change shape ever so slightly on occasion. However it tends to err on the side of being too big which is what you want. I then go round it with the tin snips or power file to refine the shape once it's in place. It's better to do it in multiple sections for accuracy. It's still the quickest and most productive way I've found to copy the shapes to the steel though.
  8. Decided to have a look at the spare engine to see what shape it's in. I didn't want to have to lift it into the van using the engine crane as the stones make it an absolute nightmare. I've found that if I strip the block right down I can lift it. On the plus side, everything came apart easily, no seized pistons here. As per the other engine, the bearings look healthier than they have any right to. However, I'm not sure if this is going to be a deal breaker or whether it just needs cleaned out and honed. Even if it's no good, I now have a good twin carb head, a good block, and an overdrive gearbox. The plan is to create one good engine with new piston rings, seals and gaskets (I am reusing those bearings.. there is absolutely no point throwing them out). Into the van and back to HQ. Did a little bit more cutting and welding on the actual car. # The wind then picked up with a vengeance at this point, so I packed it in and went for a drive.
  9. Treated the 240 to a full 7 quid wash. It showed me where all the scratches are. We were out a run so we dropped in to see the previous owners in Arbroath as recommended by @Saabnut. This is Simon with the car where it was when I first saw it (there's now a container in its parking spot). He invited us round to the house so his son (who was originally left the car by his granddad) could have a look. I encouraged him to have a wee shot as well. He was well impressed, so hopefully this may have dropped some seeds of boxy RWD Volvo appreciation! A major birthday was reached. It's also been pressed into service in engine dismantling and parts carrying duties. What a bloody handsome thing it is!
  10. The chassis on this is Galvanized which is why you rarely see a rusty one unless damaged somehow. Saying that I did once dent a part of the sill on my first van and I left it unprotected on Scotland's salty roads for 3 years. It didn't rust at all!
  11. I should clarify I'll probably bring a tent, if that makes a difference.
  12. Sign me up for the full misery package please. Two nights camping out of the back of a broken Volvo.
  13. Started stripping down the non seized Volvo B18 I had squirreled away. Must admit it doesn't look brilliant. #2 looks a bit shite actually. I'll knock those pistons out and see if it's worth saving the block.
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