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juular

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juular last won the day on September 26

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    Scotland

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Rank: Citroen Ami

Rank: Citroen Ami (6/12)

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  1. Perhaps I should just go ahead and make myself a 'Doysel Voul-fo' This is a superb watch by the way, not just for the fact he's so casual about running a petrol engine on diesel while smoking a rollup and speaking in that excellent and mesmerising Swedish accent, but for how beautiful the engine sounds and how professional the conversion looks. What a hero.
  2. I'd like a fully mechanical setup if possible. I'm sure the 1.9s still have partial electronic control?
  3. If it's going to be a camper, definitely get those sills lopped off and replaced with new panels, making sure they get properly primed inside and out and stuffed full of cavity wax until it drips out of the seams. A patch might only buy you a year. Might be worth checking all the rest of the chassis as well just to make sure there are no nasty surprises waiting. A good going over with some cavity wax and bar/chain oil or lanoguard or whatever will keep it soldiering along.
  4. Fair points. I was considering picking apart an LDV pilot for engine mounts, sump and ideas on longitudinal mounting. They are becoming increasingly hard to come by though.
  5. For the £400 I suspect almost anyone would say, fine, ditch the undertray. Or cable tie it back on (which is easier in the long run to deal with). A phonecall would have sorted all of this out. £400 for an undertray and £160 for a shock isn't incompetence unfortunately, it's blatant profiteering out of people that don't have mechanical knowledge.
  6. Is there a reason it's not that well suited to RWD? Apart from the lack of bolt-on gearboxes (I wanted to keep the volvo box anyway). I wouldn't say no to some 5 cylinder clatter, though.
  7. They were pretty knackered on closer inspection, most of the lower seam was missing and you could poke holes in them with your fingers. Once the sills are done, I have a few floor patches to do in the back, then the rear arches are getting replaced. The inners I'll build up with bits and pieces since you won't see them, but I'm getting panels for the outers. Not a huge amount in the scheme of things.
  8. More poking and prodding. On the left here is the plate that has been welded over the inner sill. It's randomly tacked in place at the top and bottom and isn't really providing much in the way of structure. In most places I tore it away by hand or a quick knock with a chisel. Onto rebuilding the front section of inner sill. Here, I just made a flat piece, laid it over the inner sill and cut through both, discarded the rotten lower section then welded the new panel on. Saves messing around trying to get them to fit together. I cut out the floor where it joined the inner sill and replaced it, as none of it was particularly nice. The floor was welded straight to the inner. Moving to the back, it looks like someone didn't even bother opening the door while welding a repair section in place. No point hanging about with this part. Braced and chopped. Back seats out. A bit of poking some painted floor in the rear corner quickly produced a large hole. Rear inner sill replaced and welded to the rear crossmember. Only gap left is under the B pillar. That's the inner sill complete on this side. Here is a bit I cut off the inner sill - floor join. Quality. I'd hoped to be able to rescue the mid-sill panel and weld this on, but it was much worse than expected. Here, I'd cut off the lower half of the panel and started chipping away the remnants of the outer sill, which again had been loosely tacked in place and wasn't providing any structure. At this point, I gave up. The whole panel has been coated in some kind of horrible sticky bitumen style paint which has then been topcoated. The belt sander, flap disk, wire wheel and blowtorch failed to shift it. I am just going to buy a complete panel. That brings the sill job to a stop, and since the weather was turning anyway, I decided to have a tidy up and clear out. Rust mountain. Jigsaw puzzle. Here's all the bits I've cut off the car and replaced so far. Took time to box all the engine components since they were lying scattered around the back of the car. And then something I should have done from the start: box and label the screws, nuts and bolts lying around. Finally, I had an hour or so left of daylight, so I went over the chassis welds again with a new roll of wire and on a higher setting. Looks significantly stronger I hope you'll agree.
  9. Absolutely frigging love these, this is just so right.
  10. Good to see updates and to know you're still making excellent life choices. You'll have that floor welded in no time. The repair you did on the Lexus sill is still holding strong.
  11. I suspect the knock code is a result of the faulty O2 sensor allowing the fuel-air mix to drift out to the point that knock occurs (or almost does), after which it's probably running on some default / limp home setting to prevent engine damage. If you can get the sensor out (it'll be the front one at/ under the manifold for extra joy) you can test it with a blowtorch and a multimeter. As it goes in and out of the torch flame you should get a reading smoothly shifting between two values (usually 0v - 1v) without any spikes or strange voltages. Always worth checking the earth points on these cars. Most of the ones I've found on our 1999 LS have been really shit. I've got a vacuum gauge here somewhere if you want to make sure there's no leaks.
  12. Agree, I think it's possible the engine had a little bit of a fit due to an implausible / dodgy O2 sensor reading. I'd replace that left bank O2 and clear the codes, take it from there. Presumably there's some way to reset the codes via the blinky light method?
  13. I think I speak for everyone here when I say we all appreciate your effort for posting and keeping us updated on this. Your English is better than many people I know. It's a pleasure to read. Great work on the car, too.
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