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Many reasons NOT to buy a discovery 2. Milestone achieved.


sutty2006

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7 hours ago, warch said:

80s and early 90s Landrover 90/110/Defender models often still have their original chassis and bulkhead which even if repaired will be good serviceable condition. These coincide with the Discovery 1 era, most Discos of this time actually had quite a good innings before age and lack of value condemned them.

Late 90s and post 2000 Defenders are shockingly bad for chassis and bulkhead rust, I wouldn't even consider buying one unless it was to replace both these components. I assume Discovery 2s had the same issue.

D1:  Body rots off the chassis and the body falls off.

D2: Chassis rots off the body and the body falls off.

Either way, the body and chassis will part company.

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2 hours ago, Talbot said:

D1:  Body rots off the chassis and the body falls off.

D2: Chassis rots off the body and the body falls off.

Either way, the body and chassis will part company.

They say a D2 body on a D1 chassis is the way to go. However, my D1 chassis is also toast, wet soggy crumbly toast. Oh well! 🤣 

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Last night I found a better sad terminal for the battery so I can run another negative cable. 

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I disconnected the battery to test fit it before cutting and splicing. It fits. So I reconnect the battery with a plan to fit it next week. 
 

now the radio doesn’t work. At all. 

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can’t even power it up to put the code in. 
 

shall I set fire to it now?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

how bout now?

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Spent a bit more money on this today. 
 

£350 got me a set of 4 alloys with fairly new and good condition Insa turbo A/T tyres. Which had to be scrubbed and jet washed before fitting. 
 

Great time to inspect the brakes. Pretty new! 
 

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Now listen folks, and folkettes, don’t go over tightening those lug nuts, just don’t do it, ya hear? Fuck they were tight. 3/4 socket on a breaker bar with a 5ft pole and they still took a bit of shifting! 
 

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and they’re on. This should suffice for the work it’ll be doing. Not much road noise either. 

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48 minutes ago, N Dentressangle said:

No idea why you'd monster the wheelnuts on Disco alloys - the torque for D1's is only 120ish. Some people are weird.

Truck's looking good!

Passenger side I managed to stand on the factory wheel brace to loosen. Drivers side I had to put the bar on. No way I could do it with the brace. Good job really, wouldn’t have managed to undo them at the side of the road. 

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54 minutes ago, N Dentressangle said:

No idea why you'd monster the wheelnuts on Disco alloys - the torque for D1's is only 120ish. Some people are weird.

Truck's looking good!

Tyre shops 'It's a truck m8, all the ugga dugs'

When i was getting tyres on my D1, was in the waiting room listening to the constant sound of the wheel gun battering away, after about 30 minutes, assuming more cars were in the workshop and it was the balancing taking forever  i got up, went to the door, stuck my head around into the workshop expecting to see 2 or 3 cars in there, it was still just my Disco, with 1 guy rattling the absolute living fuck out of every single wheel nut, including the spare....

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1 hour ago, N Dentressangle said:

No idea why you'd monster the wheelnuts on Disco alloys - the torque for D1's is only 120ish. Some people are weird.

Truck's looking good!

Macho leftover from the 1970s - Ugg, man got big nuts.....
I've been trying (and failing) to find the image I am thinking of on Google. Land Rover used to have a wheel nut display stand that you could see in dealers/shows - polished wood and brass affair. Had a Range Rover nut alongside a 'puny' nut off  a Toyota or similar with wording that implied 'ours is much better as it's bigger'.
I guess they just carried it over to the later models for simplicity and cheapness?

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We have a bloke at work that uses a Milwaukee m18 fuel 1/2 inch nut knocker to tighten sprinter wheel nuts up. That gun will do 600-700nm depending on how many ugga duggas you give…. I use the same gun to do Actros wheel nuts to 600nm. Sprinter 19mm nuts are 240nm. 😭

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I think I messed up the last fuel economy out. As there had been a battery disconnect and reconnect, which zeroed the trip. 
 

filled up again today. 228 miles covered to 41.2 litres of devil oil. 25mpg. That included 100 miles of a50/a38 dual carriageway to collect wheels. 

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16 hours ago, N Dentressangle said:

Freelander is different as it's BL and not a real Land Rover 😉

.. and it has really, really useful* soft chromey looking stuff over the actual nuts that look absolute shite after 15 years and multiple ugga dugga sessions.
Had the same things on an MGF and binned 'em - these ones can stay as the car (yes, car - it is, indeed, not a Land Rover as (1) it's dry inside and (2) it's not leaking bodily fluids all over the place) as said vehicle belongs to sprog.

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17 hours ago, Mrcento said:

Tyre shops 'It's a truck m8, all the ugga dugs'

When i was getting tyres on my D1, was in the waiting room listening to the constant sound of the wheel gun battering away, after about 30 minutes, assuming more cars were in the workshop and it was the balancing taking forever  i got up, went to the door, stuck my head around into the workshop expecting to see 2 or 3 cars in there, it was still just my Disco, with 1 guy rattling the absolute living fuck out of every single wheel nut, including the spare....

Any time this has happened to me, including on a D2 I used to have, I stopped the snotty little oik from doing so, then handed him the factory wheelbrace and asked him to imagine I was broken down with a flat tyre and needed to change it.  "Off you go, just undo one wheel nut".

Of course, he can't.  And then tries to make out that it's my fault.  A swift discussion with his manager and said spotty twat was educated in the difference between 100nm and MORE THAN 100nm.

Having snapped the weld on an old-fashioned wheelbrace (the cross type) before now trying to undo absurdly-ugga-dugga'd wheelbolts, and had to walk several miles in the pissing rain at midnight, I am very vigilant of this bullshittery.

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I had a garage wind up the rear wheel bolts on a Seat Ibiza to the point I was in a car park and noticed one of them looked loose. I pulled it straight out by hand and the hub threads followed like one big spring.

Dumped it back at the garage and said they owed me a new hub and wheel bolts. Amazingly, they admitted fault, but while I was discussing it with the owner, I could see an oik in the background holding the rattle gun on  a Micra's wheel nuts for about 20 seconds each. Fucks sake!

 

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It happens a lot with tyre fitters, especially trucks. They use an inch knocker gun and you can hear them rattling till they stop turning. Those fucking guns can do 1000nm! Our mercs are 600nm. Then they have the cheek to go round with a torque wrench which obviously clicks off straight away each time. Muppets. 

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What really pisses me off is when said oik, after running the ugga-dugga for 20 seconds then pulls out a torque wrench and makes it go click on every wheel bolt.  No, dickhead, that doesn't mean they're correctly torqued.  It means they're at 547lb-ft of torque, and the 80lb-ft that the wrench is set to just goes click.

Bellends.   Bellends everywhere.

Edit:  Crosspost with Sutty above... clearly bellends really are everywhere!

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So, back on track. 
 

I’ve finally bitten the bullet and got my private reggo on. 
 

Front was screwed AND siliconed on. Good effort. 
 

 

 

unbelievably the number plate I took off the Audi has screw holes that aren’t far off! 

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And a blob of no nails 👌

 

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lovely 😊 

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pulled the shabby rear off. But can’t find any screw holes other than 2 empty holes. Nor can I find any double sided tape. Weather is horrendous. Attempted no nails, it slid off. 
 

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Love a good d2, a general rule is all the steel inbetween the front/rear bumper can/will corrode in to nothing ;)

Qs1Yv9Bm.jpg

 

Some d2's even rot out the bulkead where the bonnet hinges are welded, mine has a holed front floor like most and a rather crispy chassis, oh and cracked flexplate - leaking sunroof.... ;)

oddly prefered it to my p38 in many ways..

 

yours looks good, i do like the bullbar,

 

 

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4 hours ago, Cooper1 said:

Love a good d2, a general rule is all the steel inbetween the front/rear bumper can/will corrode in to nothing ;)

Qs1Yv9Bm.jpg

 

Some d2's even rot out the bulkead where the bonnet hinges are welded, mine has a holed front floor like most and a rather crispy chassis, oh and cracked flexplate - leaking sunroof.... ;)

oddly prefered it to my p38 in many ways..

 

yours looks good, i do like the bullbar,

 

 

Yeah I’ve already had the nearside front bulkhead/floor welded up. It was very crispy. The only rot I’ve seen since is above the mudflaps but it’s not mot worthy so I’ll weld that bridge when I get to the mot. Etc.

 

looking for a set of spotlights now to replace the original ones as they’re crap. But I don’t want to cut the looms, might need to find a scrap set to cut the wires off. 

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5 minutes ago, Cooper1 said:

You might be able to find an OEM set of Wipac spotlights, which will be an improvement.

 

Mudflaps on mine are hanging on by a thread, galv replacementmounting panels are cheap and easy to fit  ;)

Where can I get them from? 
 

edit. I think I’ve found the lights… 6 3/4… 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323354008899?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iHickAugQvO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=oSyz5_rPQeO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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2 minutes ago, Cooper1 said:

Yep they'll probably work, or if you can source a set of LR safari 5000 spotlights which look the balls IMO. :)

 

 

I think these are those, but in poor condition?

they’re expensive if you can find mint ones. 

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  • 1 month later...

First FTP. 
 

Main ignition key fell apart last week. The button on the fob fell out. I bought a replacement key off eBay and had it cut by Timpsons at Asda. I put the innards in it. And everything worked. Key is a little stiff in the barrel, but worked. 
 

gone to work today fine. Finished at 6pm and boom. Nothing. Key won’t turn in the ignition. No amount of wiggling would get it to turn. Luckily, I borrowed a van from work and came home to have tea then take the original spare key back, thinking the new key had gone rogue. Got back to work, tried the original key, nope. Won’t turn. Fearing the worst I sprayed some Wd40 in the barrel and have it a wiggle. Still nothing. FUCK. I can’t be stuck at work!! And I’m picking my new caravan up tomorrow! I sat in the office for at work for 5 mins and the lads came up with a plan. Took some different spray out with a nozzle on the end and gave it a liberal dosing. Eventually it turned into life. Thank fook for that! Home safe. 

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