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Everything posted by Cooper1

  1. Some intermittant chassis work. Kind of hard work trying to strip and paint a car you use daily!! Chassis is being stripped of any rust and old paint in preparation for a coating of underseal.. Upon scraping the front half of the chassis it looks brand new. # The old underseal is coming off quite easily.. Only issue I can see immediatly is the rear shock absorber mounting areas, they're no where near being terminal but having rust I can see but not treat is a pain in the rear, especially the drivers side mount which is abstructed by the massive fuel tank Anyway I'll get around to wire wheeling the rust and giving it a coat of Jenolite, the above has already been coated doesn't seem to have done much however. The rear quarter has also got some surface appearing from a previous repair, a quick dose of rust converter applied should keep it at bay for a while. I should note at this point she was a pembroke/swansea car her whole life so some light rust is not too bad.. And to finish off I gave myself and the old bus a wipe over, both inside and out. At this point a body off clean up of the chassis is on the cards, only a 3hr job to do believe it or not so that is a possibility..
  2. Bloody p38 threw a curveball at me earlier this week in the shape of some crispy bits! 😷 before anyone jumps to conclusions, the 2nd owner owned a Yacht, subsequently dipping her arse in the sea hasn't done the chassis too much good. However all is not lost! The chassis being twice the thickness of my D2 chassis "I measured" the crust hasn't weakened it in any way! Rear shock mounts are the prime area for mine, just a light treatment for now as my product is stuck in the fangled delivery system. I've thrown some jenolite on there, which i'm sure will do nothing.. However eventually I plan on having the body lifted off the chassis and the chassis blasted. More to come tomorra! Hopefully the hammerite turns up!
  3. Thanks! The P38 is a very simple beast it was first conceived in the late 80s and came out in 1994 so not exactly a modern unit! However they gained a bad rep due to improper maintenance and a lack of understanding, yes they do suffer from electrical faults, but all issues can be fixed with ease. Almost everything on her works now, just the Radio left to fix.. Which aint bad considering when I bought her almost nowt worked!!!
  4. Right..where was I!Oh yes A/C condenser fans! Luckily on evilbay there are several recourses for P38 parts, mainly because most people get sick of them and part them out! £20 later and a week of waiting! we have a box of tricks. Removal of the old fans couldn't of been easier, upper rad cover off first. And then spent 2hrs "no joke" pulling and hammering on the bumper, because it has to come forward, anyway I got there in the end luckily all the bolts relented. Fitting of the other unit was again very easy, however a little upgrade was to replace all the securing bolts with some nice T40s I had left over from a transmission service, far nicer fastener than the crusty old bolts Only issue is cosmetically the "new" fans look shyte! So with just right right amount of product I gave them a going over First up some scrapy scrapy and brushy brushy was in order to knock off the rust chunks. The some "Kurust" which as we all know does fook all, apart from turning black.Which it does if you knock it on plastic/fiberglass or indeed anything! Lets face it anything that says "enviromentally friendly" is going to be useless Where was I?Oh yes, And after that Kurust set I gave them a coat of silver paint, from 66.3ft it looks 1/2 decent, so long as you have your back to it and eyes closed. And here are some complete pics after a quick body wipe over. After all this she decided to idle at 7300rpm A quick removal and clean of the IACV got everything right. DONE!
  5. Some slight cosmetic improvements. A glaring issue some p38's "mine included" have is the wealth of plastic trim on them going a nice shade of grey.. Which as you can imagine makes the whole car look a tad shit, some don't really care but I do so something had to be done.. So armed with £3 worth of spray and some gusto the work commenced. Here are the parts prior to the coating,, The pimp juice i'm using seems to last a good while, in my particular case.. Just spray on and leave for 5mins then buff off.. You can also use it on interior trim pieces, very handy on the dashboard in the middle of summer, makes for a nice blinding effect on the windscreen and who doesn't like that!! Anyway. After! Quite satisfying to look at! Anyway my next job on the old bus is to fit a 2nd hand set of condenser fans to her, as mine are completely fubar'd! They should be here in the next few days.. Oh and coz i'm a sad git I got out late from work and put some shine on the old bus.. Ahh. Gotta love the Peeeeeeee38..
  6. Regarding shock absorbers TF are junk IMO and if you have the Blue shelled +2 they're not suitable for EAS due to their length and the simple fact the shocker prevents airbag overextension. I fitted Britpart standard shocks to mine not too long ago and it transformed the car, far smoother than the TF shocks which were bone shakers. Some have also had luck with Monroes and Bilsteins. The Keyfob can be a pain in the arse, I recommend second-remote-repairs aka Jon Dean He's an expert in such matters and can repair even the worst P38 remote! And finally the upside of a NANOCOM is the ability to turn off the immobilser to prevent the engine disabled issue. Oh and EAS won't give you any issues so long as any potential problems are caught early, it is a system from the early 1990s so fairly old hat nowadays in the grand scheme of things. So long as it doesn't drop height when parked or take an age to lift when either adjusting or moving though the various heights, then you have nothing to worry about, Airbag condition is a consideration, they have a life of around 8-10yrs use depending.
  7. When I bought it she was just a bucket list motor Never expected the P38 to rise in value to be honest being that it is the last RR with roots in the original Classic it's now easy to see why its creeping up in value. An unassuming motor compared to the glitter balls that the modern examples have turned in to! I do plan on keeping this motor for a good long while
  8. Nanocom is the only unit that should grace the P38.. If you want just EAS software the FREE RSW software is hard to beat, just need a serial adaptor and the cable for the car...
  9. Very nice P38 you have there, the V8 is the business, i'm biased though!! Manual too, very rare. EAS is a necessity too, don't bin it!!
  10. HVAC time!Having got the A/C working recently the only thing that let it down was the abysmal performance of the blower motors.Only one worked, due to a failure of the Transistor on the inside of the Valeo motors used on the P38, the Pax side blower would light up full blast on ignition position 1, by design 12v goes to the blowers when the ignition came on, however the transistor is meant to prevent the 12v going to the motor unless told by the HVAC, in my case the Transistor went short to ground and let 12v to the motor no matter what the HVAC said! So to the removal.Luckily on the P38 removal is really a 10 minute job, 4 pozi screws to remove the fan. Old unit out. New/used unit in. And the net result Is fantastic everything works and the book of doom on the HVAC has gone, so now I have A/C and some good blowage from the vents! I do plan on replacing the transistor on my old fan, or I'll just pull it apart for the fun of it!! Some may disagree but I find the P38 incredibly easy to work on, I recall someone online mentioning the HVAC on the P38 being a nightmare, however every major HVAC component can be got at in 5mins, no dash out required!!
  11. And lastly.. Aircon which is needed in this weather, epecially in a car which is 90% glass! Anyway I convinced myself it was a load of different electrical gremlins, however just to humor myself I hooked up my A/C gauges! Hmm that'll be why.. With the tiny can of refrigerant I had sitting around some was added in to the system, which yielded goof results. She took the charge and there were no audible leaks.. So... Interior vent temp 45f which ain't bad, however she has a dead blower motor so blowage is mediocre at best!! Time will tell if it holds the charge!
  12. Must of jinxed the old girl!Never say everything is fine within earshot of any Land Rover... Yesterday she developed a very audible squeal from the front of the motor..Turns out the tensioner for the aux belt decided it didn't want to do its job anymore. Luckily I have a spare OEM Dayco unit sitting on the shelf, so thats gonna go in! Old unit is easy to get at. The Fan has to come off to allow access, however due to the slippy belt it was a damn sight harder to whack it loose, but I got there in the end with my big hammer!! I just rest the fan down the bottom of the rad. Belt release on the V8 is easy as pie, luckily I have just the right tools for the job, 15mm socket and a long'ish bar! Once off the removal process is just 1x 13mm bolt which in my case came out without fuss!Old unit out! The tensioner has a little stud/nipple/lump/whatever to hold it in the block and prevent it spinning..New unit, an OEM dayco unit this time. New unit fitted! Far quieter and less likely to throw the belt, which is an added bonus!! Shroud back on. Done. H
  13. Been some time since the last update so I shall fill in some blanks on the old bus! P38 has been a good old barge for the most part so I gave her a full'ish service recently..Engine OilGearbox oilTransfer box oilwere all done..I'll start with the engine. http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/smile.gifNew fluids to pour in/out Once I got my girth underneath the torrential downpour can commence Plug with a new washer ensures it doesn't leak, but to be fair another leak is neither here nor there with this thing! Plug put back in, tighten until is begins to loosen off then back off 1/4 turn New filter thrown on too! Primed up of course! New fluid poured in and that is one job done!! ----------------------------------------------------------- Gearbox next...Fill plug is 8mm Allen and the drain in 5mm nother downpour, this time of an unpleasant red/brown fluid... http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/laughing.gifThis oil only had 5k on it which really shows that a single service on an old Auto isn't really enough..New Oil is a very debatable subject..I chose mannol Old/new can you guess which is which!! Inital fill with the engine off was 2 litres and an extra 3 litres with the engine running. Test drive showed a slight improvement, she shifts very well anyway so a slight improvement is actually a big deal! Transfer Box....The old fluid was still very clean..Cracked off the filler plug first. And then the drain plug Of course I lost my grip on the plug when removing, and created all kinds of dust control, good thing it isn't toxic................................... Ahem. Anyway new fluid pumped in and all is good. To finish off I gave the engine bay a quick going over because after I was messing around in there, oily hand prints stood out like a sore thumb.. Well happy with that!
  14. More spannering!!I've been topping up the coolant for nearly 4yrs now, it doesn't consume too much however its getting annoying and fixing the cause couldn't be easier! This thing is the throttle body heater and its job in a nutshell is to prevent ice buildup in the ally intake when driving in extreme cold, or through a blizzard and you're intake is sucking in icy cold/damp air A really simple bit of kit, not really needed in the UK more for the NAS cars however if my car has a feature I like to make sure it works! Getting to it couldn't be easier, it lives under the throttle body and requires the removal of the throttle body and intake boots, plus a throttle position sensor and a crankcase breather pipe Here you can see the leak 4x 8mm bolts for the throttle body and 3x 5.5mm sees the throttle body and heater removed! And after some careful pulling and twisting the old heater is in the bin! The throttle body itself needed minimal prep just a quick clean up of the gasket surface was required, for this I used a mild cutting compound and some emery cloth.. And lastly refitment of the new unit which couldn't of been easier, just the reversal of the removal with the benefit that the new unit isn't going to leak everywhere! http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/car.gif http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/laughing.gifI started her up and pressurized the cooling system and we have no leaks!!The simple things eh!
  15. Got a few things delivered today A nice service kit for the old bus, 10litres of Comma 10w40 and my favorite brand of filter Under the old bonnet I go and loosen off the oil filler cap and dipstick, one thing I like to do is place the oil filler cap over the hole for the bonnet catch. That way I don't forget to either put the oil in or forget to replace the cap! Underneath the bus is the next port of call, and that means getting down on to a very comfortable gravel drive and fight with tight filters and awkward sump plugs.. Once underneath I had an issue, the mop bucket I stole of my Grandma didn't want to play ball, however I did mangle it in to position! 15mm for the sump plug Whilst this was draining I turned my attention to the Oil filter, which on the P38 is in an easy to replace location. My other issue was I seem to have been very strong the last time I fitted it and it took some good effort and a skinned knuckle to remove it! Once I got the litre of oil out of my armpit I cleaned up the mating surface and primed the filter with new oil, roughly 0.8 litres the new filter takes, bloody thirsty thing!! Lastly I put the clean sump plug back in and torqued it up by feel, with a new washer it shouldn't be too tight Once fitted I threw the new liquid gold in.. The old engine seems to like the old Comma 10w40, I took her out for a good run after work just for shits and giggles and after a good long hard run through wales she sounds good. She sometimes has a cam follower tap when hot however it has been getting better and better since i've been doing frequent oil changes.. I even managed to average above 20mpg on the trip too, through hilly welsh roads And I wasn't being particularly sparing with the right foot. I filled her up in Aberyswyth and according to my calculations that trip computer is pretty accurate.. I tend to be hanging around wales quite a lot just to get away from Hereford roads, which are horrible at the best of times, I keep my eyes peeled for Hubnut being that from his videos he tends to pass through and around aberyswyth @dollywobbler lol 🤪 Fantastic views too!
  16. This is all very good.. You had me at the RR goodness and they're indeed great motors to smoke around in The M62 cam cover leak never seems to stop plaguing these engines, the gasket quality tends to play a big part OEM ones only
  17. Copy/Paste for the other side! Wheel off. 12mm Bolts for the caliper carrier came out easily, however one of the carrier bolts wasn't playing. So I gave my spanner a good whack with BFH and it yielded! Next little issue that appeared was one of the slider pins wasn't quite as loose as it should of been, so out it came! And the issue became apparent it was dry but not seized of pitted All greased up and slid back in, much better! Caliper pistons pushed in using my vrake tool and some grease thrown on the caliper carrier when the pads sit. A nice "during shot" Not too much mess And Job done! I'm pleased to report after a good drive the judder and pulsating has completely vanished, she now brakes really smoothly and with the EBC pads it stops on a 50p coin so i'm well happy with the result easily one of the best things i've done to the car! The old parts were well past it, the disc was warped and covered in heat marks.
  18. Time for an update!! Over the past few weeks she adapted a nice brake pedal pulsation and the entire car would judder when slowing down from high speed, so naturally I assumed the brakes were at fault and ordered a nice set of EBC performance brake discs and pads... Rimmer Bros got them delivered next day.. When I got home from work there was a nice parcel waiting for me! The new discs are vented and drilled etc etc theyre even anodized IIRC Fitting of the discs couldn't be easier on the P38, jacking her up is the first hurdle, first off the wheel nuts were loosened off, I've made the mistake too many times of jacking them up and forgetting to crack the nuts loose!! 27mm for the wheel nuts and wheel comes off exposing the job at hand I like to slide the wheel under the chassis to prevent any issues if it dropped for any reason.. Removal of the caliper and the carrier couldn't be easier, 12mm bolt for the caliper and a 19mm BI-Hex for the carrier, both came out easily enough! Caliper off and put to the side.. The old pads removed and they were worn quite badly for the mileage they had on them, around 6k, i'd say they had 40% life remanining. 🤪 Removal of the old disc is easy as pie, just 1 pozi securing screw if you've never had this screw off its best to use an impact gun or driver, otherwise you rick stripping it.. The hub centre was greased when I last had the discs off, so everything came apart very easily, thankfully.. Hub cleaned and new Disc fitted.. The new pads have an anti squealing formula, and apparently they improve the brakes no end... They look like the business, just hope they work as well as they look! At this point typically it started to piss down with rain, so I had to rush and throw the wheel on, forget doing the other side today!! FFS.. Anyway the wheel is thrown back on.. On to the old units!! The old disks themselves are actually almost concave, hard to pick up on the camera, however you can see the scouring and delamination starting! The disk itself is even twisted slightly, hard to see in this pic but there is a warp Anyone see the slight bend to the left? Anyway! Tomorrow I'll finish off the other side and then take her for a good drive! Oh and I even went the extra and gave my air springs a coating of rubber care, to help extend their life Top/Bottom balljoints next.. Not looking forward to that to be fair!!
  19. Nothing much to report as she is running quite well at the moment I've been using it occasionally for work and putting some good miles on it'tis still very good fun to driveespecially since i've been running around in a 1.6 auto civic for a while as I don't really want to pile the miles on the P38.However to be fair the difference between them means I can't justify using the Civic anymore, its just so bad and as they say life is too short And the insurance is the same as my P38 and fuel consumption isn't anything to crow about either!some pics here that I took of her earlier today..needs a good clean and the wing mirrors repainting! Almost 4yrs of ownership and its only cost 2 mental breakdowns and a period of me spending my card clean on it a few times but I'd say its worth it? Hmm.. Also I was looking through my pictures and found the one from very early on in my ownership july 2017 .. And 3 1/2 years later and several £££ and an arm + leg later the only difference you can see is the funking tree is slightly bigger H
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