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ZX 1.9td - Farewell faithfull steed!


beko1987

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These shitroens of the 90s had ridiculously huge fuel warning margins. The other day I took the XM..2.1 turbo diesel XUD lump...from Edwin's Burgh down the A68 to Cor blimey bridge. I got to Jedburgh...still 50 miles from home and the low fuel light came on. I said fuck it and kicked on still driving the same style ..now there are no fuel stations between Jedburgh and Corbridge..that's nearly 50 miles...nothing...zilch...The old station just north of Rochester closed in 2009 ...

Anyway. Got to hexham and then drove around town on shortish journeys for a week. Eventually lobbed in 5 lts of veg oil from tesco.

 

I remember my bx was the same. You could happily ignore the light for days..priming was easy with a hand pump built in!!

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I buy my veg from Chinese supermarkets at 17 quid for 20 lts including vat and delivery. Order it online by the 200 lts. It's genetically modified soya oil. Sometimes it is hydrogenated which means there is no moral question about burning food as hydrogenated fats are lethal to eat.

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I wish I trusted the guage more! Under quarter of a tank, every corner I go round it drops to the bottom putting the light on, then slowly creeps back up. I calibrate it on the m40, as it seems to sit where it should, so I can join it with the light on and have over a quarter of a tank by the time I get off at my junction. When the lights on the whole way I know its time to fill up!

 

Agricultural pipe sounds better, dont care about fancy braiding or other shit. Will have a look for 4mm pipe, there's a tractor place near us I think!

 

That ZX in the scrappy is the wrong colour, sorry! As much as it's a £350 car, I want everything to match! I do know of one on ebay for £30 delivered in the right colour but every time I think of buying it I run out of money. Planning to buy it when SWMBO gets paid next week, then I can make her look good again!

 

And no, the door isnt open, it's one of the elctrical issues it has, and the switch/sensor/whatever is buried in the door lock assembly so that can FRO, I usually know when the doors open anyway... It did flicker on and off once so I assume breaking wire rather than something else, but I still cant be bothered!

 

Drove in the dark again last night, really need to play with the headlights!

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 I want everything to match! I do know of one on ebay for £30 delivered in the right colour but every time I think of buying it I BUY ANOTHER HOOVER

EFA

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well on wednesday I sold this

 

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So just now I went over to our local used tyre emporium and got these fitted to the wheels Vantman kindly sent me

 

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They didnt have any 185/65/15s, so fitted

 

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Which he said would be fine still

 

This is whats on there atm

 

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Should be ok shouldn't it? Will find out on Sunday when I get round to fitting the wheels to the car, and some other tasks! As a bonus both tyres are makes I've never heard of!

 

I then went to asda and bought some baccy, a heinz bacon and bean slice and a mcdonalds milkshake with the leftover money. Good old Dyson! (was a freebie too)

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The brakes are gr9 tbh! The rears need new pads and discs at some point as their a bit tired, but no complaints on stoppage. I'll have a good check over them when I swap the wheels, and will clean the excessive copper grease off the mating face too... There's still no pedal for an inch, but I'm so used to that now I dont notice it!

 

The 1994/3/2 spare has been excellent, I've driven like it's not been there and have had no complaints apart from it finding the grooves in l1 made by the lorries, but I'm used to that now too!

 

If anything most of the cars issues now are the possibly fucked rear shocks! It's started jiggling slightly side to side on crap roads now, noticed it today going to the tyre place on a road I;ve not been down in it before

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I'm clinging onto the hope that matey was telling the truth that the beam was replaced a few years ago for a low mieler (the abs ring is promising that it has). Aim to have a good look round on sunday and ask you fine* chaps for your advice!

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Yep that's sorted, the tyre chap found a matching pair.

 

When I had the xm it had a different size tyre on the front left. My mate noticed it when he mot'd it for the first time in my ownership, and passed it after making me promise to get it changed asap. Drove across Wycombe to the same tyre place straight afterwards and got it sorted. It rode slightly better afterwards!

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Well, I got the wheels and tyres on on Sunday morning (just got round to wanging the pics up! Had a good check of the new discs too, wearing in nicely

 

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Smeared the coppaslip that was left around, didnt put any fresh on

 

Had a look at the rear shocks too whilst the rear wheel was off

 

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Looks pretty fucked. Compounded too by lack of access to the mounting bolts, and the fact that they look like originals that haven't been touched in years. Any tips to get them off?

 

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Reading the HBOL it says to remove the backbox to get better access to the bolts on the passenger side. Looking at all the snot and bits of metal holding it together that might be tricky, and it's leak free at the moment so loathed to do it. If I do, I feel a new backbox coming on and just chopping it off as close as possible to the end

 

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Looking at the shocks, under the dust cover they dont look too horrific

 

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So I elected to leave it alone for now and see if it crops up at MOT time, unless anyone can offer advice on removal? I'll need a new socket anyway, it's 21mm, I have a 20 and 22, which will round it off if I try any harder than I did!

 

Glad the spare is finally off too, it was starting to crack after nearly 3000 miles

 

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Looks quite old, have I taken a picture of the date code or something else?

 

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Either way, it runs alot better with 4 full size wheels fitted! Will get the rears shod next payday. Moving the rear axle up and down with the jack seems to have smoothed things out slightly though, unless it's just the fact that the spare isnt on!

 

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Looking at the tyre that came off the front pass side, it is wearing the inside edge fast. The tracking is very out, if I straighten the steering wheel it punts me to the right. Should I possibly get it done properly, or would taking the steering wheel off and refitting it straight do the trick? Don't want to mask the problem if I can help it, would rather fix it and save tyres.

 

So, it's still lumpity and bumpety, although serves me right for buying a car that's factory lowered, but it rides alot better now! Still not bought a new wing though, or washed it, or serviced it in any way apart from filling the screenwash up! It should tick over to 267k tomorow morning too, will get home on 266,98something tonight looking at the odometer.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Home early from work for the first time in ages, so got me tools out and actually did something on my car short of sit in it...

 

IMAG1202.jpg

 

Old frayed accelerator cable

 

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disconnected all the engine bay stuff, then stripped the lower trim out of the drivers footwell to get at the pedal. Found the fuel cutoff switch that the previous owner mentioned but never showed me, could be handy! (of course you can borrow my car my dear...)

 

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pedal end is disconnected

 

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I tied the new one to the old and pulled it through

 

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fitted the pedal end and rubber grommit

 

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then went up to the engine. Routed it where the old one went and... too fucking short. routing it a different way, around the block and intercooler mainly worked, and i got the engine bay bit connected

 

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cable ties hold it on course, their not tight

 

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fired a polite email to the seller to inform him, although not expecting a refund as it's fitted now, and tbh it does work well, the pedals not as floppy, and it moves the mechanism much sooner than it did (old cable probably needed adjusting, but I didnt want to put strain on the cable. did keep the old one, may have a plan if I get 5 minutes though...)

 

Happy* with it, I got the next little package I recieved on monday

 

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new washer jets! old ones were crap, provided a pinhole jet of water, wouldnt adjust properly and were crap

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qY7KhrenCbA&list=UUv0y2E43HyJMX85p-Wxro0Q

 

That rattle never used to be there but I think its just the speed of water rattling through everything. biased the spray towards the drivers side too to help keep it clean on the m40.

 

Hopefully on the way to work tomorrow the cable will be fine!

 

Lastly I also fixed this which I noticed the other week

 

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Some of us have to carry the flag volksy! You're doing much better than I am atm though, fuck painting!

 

pedal is stiffer than it was this morning, probably due to the routing of the cable, but the throttle response is smoother now, and it revs much higher more quickly than it did (lost a car behind me in black smoke...)

 

but I don't really like it, it can't be good for it long term so I've exhausted ebay, which has the same kit I got, might have a look at the old one and see if a suitable bodge repair can be fashioned, although the middle reinforcement of the cable did stretch a bit when I pulled it out of  the car...

 

Random hypothetical question - would a choc block be adequate to join 2 pieces of accelerator cable together, say on an XUD9?

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I've used that as a temporary* repair before, with no issues.

 

I feel your pain over too short pattern cables though - I once changed the clutch cable (just in case, while I had the pedal box out) on the BX, which is a bastard of a job...took something like 4 hours and then I realised it was too fucking short! I could have cried, especially as it was up on ramps blocking in the rest of the fleet - so I had no choice but to refit the old one.

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The old one fully broke, so I had to fit the new one. Was thinking of cutting the old one before the housing it goes through on the adjuster, and fitting a length of the new one the rest of the way, joining it in the middle...

 

Is there a name for little metal tubes with the 2 Allen grub screws for joining bike brake cable?

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The old one fully broke, so I had to fit the new one. Was thinking of cutting the old one before the housing it goes through on the adjuster, and fitting a length of the new one the rest of the way, joining it in the middle...

 

Is there a name for little metal tubes with the 2 Allen grub screws for joining bike brake cable?

 

I think it's called mullered connector block.

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I think it's called mullered connector block.

Yep, once repaired a brake cable on a Tomos moped this way - stayed that way until I sold it

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I think that is the plan. Mate came over tonight, and we stripped 7cms off the outer sheath engine bay end of the old cable. Plan is when we get an afternoon to fit the old cable to the pedal end, and route as it should be, then chopping the new one down to fit between the joint on the hopefully straight part of the run, and into the mechanism.

 

It does rev better now, throttle response is more precise, left a lovely black cloud accelerating to 5.5k in 3rd on the bypass just after leaving work, and it got from 60 to 80 very sharply indeed, turbo whistle seems better too so hopefully once this job is done right all will be well in that area.

 

Probably going to use a few chocolate blocks though, because I have some in the shed...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Beko, I can't find where you said you'd mullered your knob and pulled it off (fnarr).

Anyway, I have a well-worn 306 gear knob here if you want it. Please check your gear stick is the same first though - the round tube is crimped into a sort of square, or X-shaped profile at the top, and the knob slides firmly over it (not threaded).

 

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If you want it FOC, PM me your address and I can post it tomorrow morning when I go into town.

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