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Sigmund Fraud

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Everything posted by Sigmund Fraud

  1. " Impenetrable Engine " 🤔
  2. Had to buy petrol at £1.62/litre today... If things continue this way, it will soon be cheaper to fill up with Dom Perignon !!!
  3. Is it time for some ironic "100% BMC FREE" stickers ?
  4. EFA, this is Autoshite after all !
  5. @SiCInteresting find about the early A3 FSi's having their stratified mode disabled - didn't realise this was possible ! The problem (and the reason for my scepticism regarding the Proboost ECU) is that the stratified mode is the least of one's worries when it comes to the A2 FSi's reliability issues... @horriblemercedesA2s do have a steel front subframe (more of a crossmember, actually), at the back they have the usual VAG beam axle which is bolted straight onto the aluminium spaceframe. @TrabbieRonnieThere's plenty of reasons to be put off A2s if you're looking for "a car". The most important is that a good A2 costs at least double what a conventionally bodied VW/Seat/Skoda using the same running gear would sell for.
  6. @SiC The engine management system is smart enough to allow 95 octane fuel to be used safely. But the drop in performance and economy is such, that there's absolutely no point in doing that ! @Dj_efk People worry about the plastic parts in the cooling system, but they are pretty common VAG parts bin items so aftermarket versions are widely available and cheap. The electronically-controlled thermostat is an exception, of course, and another example of unnecessary complexity. Trust me, when mine goes it will be replaced by the venerable R5 thermostat in the top hose ! Regarding the Proboost ECU, it's hailed as some sort of panacaea for the FSi engine but I'm not convinced that it is. It also costs 60% of what my entire car cost, which I don't think I can justify. I'm not sure what people are comparing the A2 FSi with, when they make all sorts of enthusiastic comments about its performance. It's basically a "lukewarm hatch", with similar performance to a Clio II RSi (and without that car's excellent combination or ride and handling). It's probably true you can achieve 50mpg, but I can assure you it's not easy. Mine returns 48mpg if one exercises self-restraint, and a pretty decent 45mpg if one does not ! Lovely TDi's, by the way, especially the cherry red (or merlot red ?) one with the pepperpots !
  7. The 1.6 is the one everyone will tell you not to buy, and for good reason. VW have basically taken the 1990s Golf/Polo 1.6 8v block, bodged on a 16v head (two cambelts, two tensioners, two idlers - naturally !) then added further complication with VVT, variable intake lenghts, a first-generation direct injection system of questionable reliability and a myriad sensors for the engine management system. And this veritable marvel of technology just about manages to produce 110HP and returns (in the lightweight, aerodynamic A2 body) high 40s to the gallon, which is frankly not all that impressive. Basically, only a fool would buy the 1.6 ! I know, because I am such a fool.
  8. Great stuff, as always ! Also, that first Corvair picture could have easily been taken in the 1970s...
  9. A2s are absolutely brilliant ! They're basically 50% concept car, 50% Polo 9N. The Polo bits make them easy and cheap to maintain, but also mean that reliability is mediocre at best. An early, basic 1.2TDi would be the most sensible choice, combining the A2s quirkiness with frugality and simplicity. At the opposite end of the spectrum lies the fragile, over-complicated 1.6FSi, which is only suitable for masochists. Care to guess which model I own ?
  10. I'm not a chemical engineer, but isn't the petroleum distillate part of E5/E10 fuel of a lower octane rating than ye olde ethanol-free fuel ? In which case removing the ethanol may not be a good idea...
  11. Update time ! Regular readers will remember that Mrs F's Polo failed it's MoT last November, with the tester advising there was a "small hole" in the nearside sill. This is what the "small hole" looked like after I had removed plenty of structural* rubber underseal : Now, I've long fantasized about driving the terrible old heap onto the local scrapyard's weighbridge. Unfortunately, Mrs F was not keen on my plans for a final solution to the Polo question, and instructed me to repair it. With the 206 still performing faultlessly, there was no need to rush, so the Polo was parked in my workshop and basically forgotten about until last week. Then, in a mad rush of activity, this happened : I initially tried fabricating my own repair patch, but the result was pathetic. Making small patches using a vice and hammer is easy, but my bodywork skills were clearly not good enough for me to make such a large patch without a sheet metal folder. So I went out and bought a full sill, which I trimmed down to size and lap joined onto the car. A butt joint would have allowed an invisible repair, but I saw no point in this considering the state of the rest of the bodywork. Then, on the hottest day of the year, I attacked it with some filler, primer and paint to tart things up a bit : Much better ! A couple of coats of lacquer, and it will be ready to drive to the Concorso d'Eleganza Villa d'Este MoT station.
  12. TDi-tastic ! Basically, the only decent engine those 9Ns ever came with.
  13. It's typical of that generation of small VW OHC engines, and not helped by the poor design of the crankcase breather system. You're absolutely right not to worry about it.
  14. Time for another irregularly irregular update from FRAUD GARAGES ! As one would expect from its low mileage, Mrs F's new 206 has been no* trouble at all : At least, it flew through its MoT with a single advisory, which was straightforward to address : As a reward, she treated it to a full set of Michelin Crossclimates and an alignment. The Michelins cost an eye-watering amount of money, but are admittedly excellent. Typically, I haven't had much time to spend on my own cars. The Chevywoo Tacuma formerly owned by @andyberg has taken over family car duties. As documented elsewhere in this fine forum, Andy had done a brilliant job recommissioning the Tacuma and there was very little left for me to do. So I replaced the ancient rear tyres with a pair of ATS' finest* Chinese ditchfinders... ...replaced the pollen filter(s)... ...topped up the screenwash and took it for a short* drive :
  15. VWs use a similar design, with hex bolts that are extremely easy to round off. I normally remove them with an impact driver and the largest hammer I can find. You may also want to try some heat, in case some fool (or, in some cases, the factory !) has previously loctited the bolts into place.
  16. What can I say, you're a much, much braver man than I am ! My reaction would have been along these lines :
  17. Automatic adjusters on this one, a pretty smart design that unfortunately is very unreliable : If the adjuster teeth are not worn out, a good clean may get them working again. They're pretty cheap, though, so I normally just replace because taking drum brakes apart over and over again is soul destroying !
  18. I'm also a big fan of Millyard ! It's amazing that someone can make the stuff he makes in a small garage, using simple hand tools and a basic lathe ! It's a shame he doesn't do four wheels. The Beardmores (remember them ?) had a similar "made in a shed with simple tools" approach back in the 90s, but they usually kept the running gear side of things pretty conventional.
  19. I know nothing about BMWs, but a drain and refill of the 206 box should require around 4 litres. Opie lists the correct LT 71141 fluid for £12/litre. This should leave you with enough change from your £500 to buy another roadworthy 206 as a backup !
  20. PSA says "sealed for life", but I'd replace the ATF every 60k because it's easier and cheaper than replacing the box. For more info on how to do it, see here.
  21. You're right that the units are different for conventional and CANBUS wired cars, but IIRC there are also differences between model years and trim levels. Being Peugeot, it would not surprise me if none of them are interchangeable. Is your current unit beyond repair ? Sometimes all they need is new bulbs, sometimes you need to change the ribbon cable which is fiddly but not impossible.
  22. Hmmm... One possibility is that the garage didn't follow the correct procedure to bleed the cooling system. It eventually self-bleeds, which could explain the coolant level going down after a few days of using the car. The other possibility is that there is a leak somewhere in the system. Common culprits are the stupid plastic housing on the right hand side of the head (I now know to use half a tube of Reinzosil to seal it !) and the OEM spring clips (I now know to replace them with Jubilee clips !).
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