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Yep, I also meant the clip.  Didn't seem to want to slide, or even turn.  I might have to try twatting it with something heavy.  It looks like it's fixed in position, but that could just be the accumulation of brake dust making it look as one with the back plate.

Heat and penetrating fluid? I agree with Hooli that it looks like a spring clip. They do lose their elasticity and become brittle over time and finding new ones may be a pain. Have you tried pushing in inwards just by where the pin comes through? And I guess you have checked it’s not full of crap which could stop it compressing.

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Shamou muthafuckers. What is the best paint to put on yer chassis these days? I'm putting on coat of hydrate 80 to the bare metal but want to pop something hardcore (know the score) on top.

 

Obvs, Hammerite is Hammershite these days so any suggestions? Can you get Rustoleum boat paint over here or is that banned as it's made from radioactive isotopes or summink?

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I can haz satnav!!!

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20180915_185702.jpg

 

Thanks for all the pointers, muchly appreciated.  Now all I have to do is get it to fit in the dashboard and I'm well away.

 

Telly doesn't work though.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20180915_190806.jpg

 

:(

 

 

Oh that looks like analogue (at least I've never seen a digi tv do that) very retro, just put a set top box on the dash.

 

What Hooli said - these were all analogue and there are no analogue signals transmitted any more.   There were some digi tuners you could fit in the boot but I haven't seen one for ages.

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Yep, I also meant the clip. Didn't seem to want to slide, or even turn. I might have to try twatting it with something heavy. It looks like it's fixed in position, but that could just be the accumulation of brake dust making it look as one with the back plate.

Press it in with a flat screwdriver then pull it up with pliers at same time

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Shamou muthafuckers. What is the best paint to put on yer chassis these days? I'm putting on coat of hydrate 80 to the bare metal but want to pop something hardcore (know the score) on top.

 

Obvs, Hammerite is Hammershite these days so any suggestions? Can you get Rustoleum boat paint over here or is that banned as it's made from radioactive isotopes or summink?

About £30-40 gets you 5 litres of chassis paint, get the type they use on trucks. Very hard wearing. Volvo satin grey looks good.

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About £30-40 gets you 5 litres of chassis paint, get the type they use on trucks. Very hard wearing. Volvo satin grey looks good.

 

Is this the shizzle you're on about?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chassis-Commercial-Vehicle-Satin-Finish-Paint-Volvo-Grey-2-5-Litre-/322526160188

 

Looks reasonable. Will pick some up if it's good stuff.

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Is this the shizzle you're on about?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chassis-Commercial-Vehicle-Satin-Finish-Paint-Volvo-Grey-2-5-Litre-/322526160188

 

Looks reasonable. Will pick some up if it's good stuff.

If you have decent auto paint supplier locally it usually works out cheaper to buy from them as it’s costly to send these days. I got a litre for a tenner a few months back and that is plenty for most jobs.
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Suspect the hardest bit would be dealing with the amount of poo coming out when cutting the roof of the receiving car.

It'd save on roof respray and I'd have the only manual Alessi with a Skydome. (Japan had Skydomes with the auto box)

 

 

 

(Possibly one of my stupid ideas that I'll never have the bollocks to do.)

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My disco 2 TD5 loses coolant, maybe a pint / 500 miles. I can't find any external leak, so put it in to my friendly garage who also couldn't find a leak and it held pressure when pressure tested. So then he cranked the pressure up overnight, next day the level had dropped and it didn't want to run initially. So he's saying there's a smoll crack prolly in the head and it's losing into a cylinder.

 

He suggests I try K seal, or it's strip engine for £kerching.

 

What does the shite hive mind think? Is there a 'best way' to k seal or just chuck a bottle in and hope?

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My disco 2 TD5 loses coolant, maybe a pint / 500 miles. I can't find any external leak, so put it in to my friendly garage who also couldn't find a leak and it held pressure when pressure tested. So then he cranked the pressure up overnight, next day the level had dropped and it didn't want to run initially. So he's saying there's a smoll crack prolly in the head and it's losing into a cylinder.

 

He suggests I try K seal, or it's strip engine for £kerching.

 

What does the shite hive mind think? Is there a 'best way' to k seal or just chuck a bottle in and hope?

Plan K is working on my pinto and has worked well for me in the past including on a V6 Omega that got run with no coolant until it stopped..

 

It could be a gasket joint that is opening when heated or flexed, given what it's worth K seal then look out for a spare engine.

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My trailer has the usual slidey hitch for braking with the lock for reversing that has to be engaged manually because it's old, it has hydraulic brakes, Is this normal? Never seen the like before, so maybe I don't get out enough but it seems a bit wanky. The master cyl is obviously banjaxed so I'll throw one on and have a look in the hubs, but before I do I'd like to conform that this setup is Kosher and not some weird ex-airport / refinery / strange import that can never be road legal.

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Grey key is a valet key not a master as far as I know, check to see if it opens the boot or glovebox, if not then it's a valet key, well that's the way it works on a Lexus which is just a posh Toyota.

Surely it would be essential for a valet key to open the glove box and boot for valeting as they are mostly used as rubbish containers for old drinks cans and doggypoo bags?

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My trailer has the usual slidey hitch for braking with the lock for reversing that has to be engaged manually because it's old, it has hydraulic brakes, Is this normal? Never seen the like before, so maybe I don't get out enough but it seems a bit wanky. The master cyl is obviously banjaxed so I'll throw one on and have a look in the hubs, but before I do I'd like to conform that this setup is Kosher and not some weird ex-airport / refinery / strange import that can never be road legal.

 

Normal old setup, my 'rents had a caravan that was the same.

 

 

Saab estate has a slight weep from the radiator, looks like the plastic/metal interface. Do I use Kseal or something like Wynns radiator sealer?

I have a random bottle of Kseal which is why I am asking :)

 

Remind me what Saab? I ask as I have a 9-5 turbo manual rad in my garage that I ordered by mistake & turned out not to need anyway.

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My trailer has the usual slidey hitch for braking with the lock for reversing that has to be engaged manually because it's old, it has hydraulic brakes, Is this normal? Never seen the like before, so maybe I don't get out enough but it seems a bit wanky. The master cyl is obviously banjaxed so I'll throw one on and have a look in the hubs, but before I do I'd like to conform that this setup is Kosher and not some weird ex-airport / refinery / strange import that can never be road legal.

If it works it's fine.

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9-5 turbo auto - has two fans strapped to back face - would be nice if it was compatible

 

Won't fit sorry. Autos have an extra oil cooler on the driver's side for the gearbox than the manual rad lacks. That's why I've got the rad spare as my 9-5 is a turbo auto too.

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Won't fit sorry. Autos have an extra oil cooler on the driver's side for the gearbox than the manual rad lacks. That's why I've got the rad spare as my 9-5 is a turbo auto too.

That's a shame. I suppose changing the rad with the oil cooler attached becomes a messy oily job? So back to my original question:

Saab estate has a slight weep from the radiator, looks like the plastic/metal interface. Do I use Kseal or something like Wynns radiator sealer?

I have a random bottle of Kseal which is why I am asking

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