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warren t claim

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Yep, that big plug is a BMW one - there will be a socket buried behind the ashtray - you may need to take out the climate panel and the ashtray to get at it.

 

This is the only pic I can find on t'internet - obviously yours won't have anything plugged into it

 

 

attachicon.gifInked1_LI.jpg

 

I know it sounds weird, but that's hewn from granite German engineering for you - once you plug that BMW plug into the socket behind the ashtray, it will supply power to the box in the boot and that will energise the blue and white connectors and the screen should power up.  One thing the more beardy 75 folk have established is that if you have a cassette deck under that screen it's plug n play - but apparently the single CD player version doesn't work with the original Rover/BMW box in the boot.

Excellent, cheers for that - I'll have a crack at it next weekend.  Looks like the climate panel will need to come out to get the ashtray out anyway, it won't slide out in the "normal" manner as it hits the centre console.

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Hi experts. I'm trying to order an exhaust down pipe for my Mazda 323 Coupe. After speaking to BM Catalysts, I have narrowed it down to two versions one with an 18mm hole for a Lambda sensor, one without. The one without doesn't come with a fitting kit annoyingly (from BM).

 

So, as I can't remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold, what's the easiest way of me determining the one I've got?

 

Cheers.

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Look for wires heading down that way, no wires means no sensor.

Or if they are the same apart from that, get the sensor one & the most you'll need to do is get a bolt the right size & wind it in with some gunk on it to seal it.

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Best way to get a 13mm nut with a pissed/stripped thread off an alternator terminal that just turns and turns and turns ad infinitum? One which won't just slide off with the assistance of a screwdriver or some long nosed pliers.

 

I really don't want to cut the cable, fit a new eye & take the alternator off the car if possible.

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Look for wires heading down that way, no wires means no sensor.

 

Or if they are the same apart from that, get the sensor one & the most you'll need to do is get a bolt the right size & wind it in with some gunk on it to seal it.

 

Cheers, in a case of 'look before you post' it's bloody obvious it does have the sensor!!

 

post-20084-0-94722100-1536672756_thumb.jpg

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Best way to get a 13mm nut with a pissed/stripped thread off an alternator terminal that just turns and turns and turns ad infinitum? One which won't just slide off with the assistance of a screwdriver or some long nosed pliers.

 

I really don't want to cut the cable, fit a new eye & take the alternator off the car if possible.

 

Nut splitter?

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Polo 9N / Mk4 2002 amber steering light on the dash.

 

Been at it with a couple of OBD2 readers and neither has picked up an error code. Is that right for one of these?

 

Before I start hacking it around will check battery condition as pump needs a lot of amps.

 

What then? guessing that the steering angle sensor is behind the steering wheel and the pump I already spied under the battery

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Nut splitter?

 

 

Have you tried levering the nut slightly whilst undoing it? Sometimes it can catch the thread.

 

Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips.

 

As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.

 

post-24583-0-45599200-1536679620_thumb.jpg

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Youll probably know but check to see if you can use that key to start the car.

 

 

Yeah it starts the car. Probably need it if there's any major work done to the engine in the future. I don't think it has an immobiliser, but it might do.

 

If I couldn't get the lowest side packed out by either slotting a small screw driver up behind it or some thing similar then I'd be considering taking it off to drop it down for better access to the terminal. Make sure the battery is disconnected!

 

Looks like that's the only way I can do it then. I didn't want to go down that route as it means removing half the bleeding crap in the engine bay (Air filter, MAF sensor, some pipework) then I'll have to borrow some star drive sockets from a bloke at work or my nephew to get the thing off.

 

Unless ultra-thin nut splitters are available? I don't think I can get the back cover off the alternator while it's in situ, which would make getting to things a hell of a lot easier, possibly give me the room to get a normal size nut splitter on the terminal.

 

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Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips.

 

As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_6398.JPG

 

Dremel & try to slice the side off the nut?

 

I'd probably just take it off to be safe though.

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Is this possible with the use of a wire from my phone to the tv? And if so which wire?

 

So I have an iphone 5. I also have two standard lcd tele’s. Neither of these are smart tv’s. How would I go about getting youtube from my phone to play on the tv?

 

Chromecast, which will turn your TV into a Smart TV, and then just stream wirelessly. They're about £30 and they work far, far better than any rubbish "Android TV" box (which are never actually Android TV, but just Android running on a shit old little computer rammed with malware)

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Thanks for the above responses...

 

Another wuestion not relating to the above.....what would be the correct grade of oil for my 2007 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi (which I am lead to believe is the 1.6 HDi engine).... I know these engines are quite fussy when it comes to oil and throw turbos for a pastime so just wondering what the correct grade is....

 

From memory I seem to think it is 0w30 or 0w40....could someone please confirm?

 

Thanks,

 

 

James

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I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

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I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

sounds about right....could use a length of wire with a spade crimped on each end to bridge the wiring to see if it works.

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I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

 

Aye, provided the fourth terminal is earthed so the trigger circuit can complete.

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I don't think there is a forth terminal - the housing sits in a rubber shell and there is just battery to terminal 1, terminal 2 to starter and starter switch (via safety relay) to trigger. I'd assumed the trigger earths through the starter connection?

 

Even with the casing earthed it doesn't fire so i'm going to say its deaded and get a replacement.

 

cheers for confirming logic though!

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