Jump to content

Ask a Shiter


warren t claim

Recommended Posts

Posted

As some may know, my recently acquired Rover 416 has been lowered in a previous life.

Drastically.

Whilst looking nice* it is virtually undriveable on our local roads. Jarring teeth and smashing heads into roof liner. It came with a set of replacement springs, but these are 35mm lower than standard. I appreciate that these cars were low as standard, but will the 35mm shorter than standard springs just be a waste of time? I suspect so. They may raise the ride height slightly, but probably not enough to convey a 56 year old plump bloke plus wife and dog around without discomfort.

Not wanting to waste money, was just wondering.

 

R8s don't have much suspension travel to begin with - I'd personally suggest a set of normal height springs.

Posted

It's in the top right corner.

 

But it never works. Search for 'car' and it shows every thread that never contained the word 'car'.

 

You're better off checking how to use google to search a single site. Infact I've seen some forums use google for their search function & they are the only ones where search works.

Posted

Put "site:autoshite.com" into Google and then your search phrase. E.g. "site:autoshite.com Broken Lagunas".

 

It will then only search Autoshite.

Posted

There's a little cog next to the search box for advanced search.

 

This will let you search for a specific author, title only, any word or all words, and any combination of those.

 

I find the search function works OK from the full site, the Tapatalk search is pretty shit though.

Posted

Pop rivets. Am I thinking about this wrong? I have one of these that I want to attach to the front bumper of my car:

 

21037268-origpic-613190.jpg

(Edit: this attached to the bumper then the number plate is screwed into the bumper through another hole).

 

The holes I want to attach it through are 6mm in diameter. Do I want 6m rivets or will 4.8mm do because as far as I can tell 6mm ones simply do not exist

 

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-8-x-14MM-BLACK-POP-RIVETS-LARGE-FLANGE-3-16-X-9-16-WIDE-RIVET-ALUMINUM/390764980791?hash=item5afb686a37:g:~mYAAOxy63FS85Ns

Posted

EP oils contain additives that are corrosive to copper and brass and will damage older diffs over time.

 

EP oils Kill X1/9 gearboxes.. NON EP only. Get it from the local tractor fixers...

Posted

Anyone know the cost of transferring a registration from one car to another? Basically my cousin wants to keep his existing plate from his Scenic (his late father’s car, so sentimental reasons, which I can understand), and transfer it to an MG TF which he’s px’ing it for. The bloke who owns the garage may know costs or may not want to do it, but thought I’d put the feelers out for him anyhow.

Posted

Anyone know the cost of transferring a registration from one car to another? Basically my cousin wants to keep his existing plate from his Scenic (his late father’s car, so sentimental reasons, which I can understand), and transfer it to an MG TF which he’s px’ing it for. The bloke who owns the garage may know costs or may not want to do it, but thought I’d put the feelers out for him anyhow.

 

I've looked at those silly cheap Northern Ireland plates on eBay and I'm sure it's about £80 as it's more than they were asking for some of the plates.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've looked at those silly cheap Northern Ireland plates on eBay and I'm sure it's about £80 as it's more than they were asking for some of the plates.

Cheers, wIll relay this back to him.

Posted

You can do it on line, it costs £80 as said by the others and is very straightforward, you get a few days to make new plates, inform insurance etc.

Get the Scenic plate on a Retention Certificate before the P/X. They will give you a new registration for the Scenic.

When he gets the other car is easy to swop the plate to that from the retention cert.

  • Like 1
Posted

Going to look at another V70 d5 tomorrow night, this one a little older, 2002

 

Just off the phone with the owner and his honest description included that the intercooler is leaking (he says another guy that came and looked told him, he hadn't noticed himself)

 

I'm not that put off; I reckon I could get it fairly cheap; the cheapest intercoolers I've just looked up are €200 ish; does that sound about right? Is it difficult done on a driveway?

Posted

They were issued at the time we have 1234R in the family

Not actually 1234 but 4 numbers, oddly the replacement plate was also 4 digits but 2 letters.

Posted

Renault Clio Mk2 Ph1 hazards, only indicating one the left when the hazards are switched on. 

Indicators work fine and nothing else.

 

Any pointers?

Posted

I'd guess at wanky Renault hazard switch

So possibly the switch, I will have a look at cleaning it first.

 

Cheers.

Posted

Hi All.

 

This is probably a really simple / daft question but I've been meaning to ask it for years. Now that I drive a car with an AW55 automatic gearbox it's probably high time I did ask!

 

When sitting in a queue or at traffic lights, which is more mechanically sympathetic (assuming torque converter gearbox):

 

1. Sitting with it in D, while blinding the poor fecker behind with my brake lights

2. Selecting neutral & handbrake.

 

Answers on a postcard...

Posted

I vote for 2   

 

more mpg , and less chance of the car zooming off if you have a senior moment ....

Posted

So possibly the switch, I will have a look at cleaning it first.

 

Cheers.

TADTS

Posted

I go with a combination of 1 and 2.

 

Stop with footbrake, then apply handbrake while leaving in Drive. Unless stopped for more than a minute or two, then into Park.

Posted

3. Leave it in D, apply handbrake. If more than a couple of minutes, shift it into N or P.

  • Like 1
Posted

N and handbrake. Daft to go into P as shift button needs pressing and you have to go through N & R to get to P. A move to N and back to D shouldn't need a button press it should just knock back or forwards and also doesn't light up the reversing lights.

 

No reason to burn the retinas of the person behind with Laserbeam9000 brake lights either.

 

I'm one for starting the engine in N too, but that's because Volvo 300 CVT and not wishing to burn the clutch out whilst the choke is out in P.

Posted

D and handbrake, I used to shift to neutral but someone put a link on here showing how auto boxes wear and it showed that to be the least bad option. Can’t remember where on here I say it though.

Posted

If I'm waiting for a short time I just leave it in D with foot brake on.

 

If I'm waiting longer I shift to N and handbrake.

  • Like 2
Posted

The torque convertor job is to let it sit in drive whilst not moving amongst other things.

 

Ive driven autos for 30 years and always left in drive unless for a long stop and never had any problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...