Jump to content

Ask a Shiter


warren t claim

Recommended Posts

Posted

Advice needed please.

Tranny Van 2011, wipers have developed a mind of there own.

Started with the frost maybe.

When you switch ign off the wipers keep going for 4? sweeps then park around the middle of the screen, not always in the same place.

Have checked t'internet and it seems the motor has a constant feed, broken by a plastic cam at park point.

Am suspecting the plastic cam has moved position maybe?

My first thought is to take the wiper blades off, let it cycle a few times and refit the blades.

If that fails an Ebay motor is only £25, so worth a try maybe.

Anything else I could try? Am useless with electrickery.

Have read about GEM whoever she is, but that's probably well over my head.

Will be trying to sort it on Monday if its not raining. Thanks folks.

 

Progress has been made, but made worse.

Couldn't get the wipers off, but the motor arm came off easy, too easy maybe, perhaps that has slipped?

Anyway with the arm off I switched the wipers on, then off as per HBOL. 

Refitted the motor arm.

The wipers now work all the time, never switch off until you turn the ign off.

Fortunately its raining.

Couldn't get the plug out of the motor, but on ebay looks like lucar connectors.

Tomorrows plan is to remove wiper plug, make a short link loom and remove one wire at a time until they stop, then fit temp bodge switch to that wire to stop them.

Seems this happens all the time on Transit forums without a definate answer.

Any comments or ideas are very welcome.

 

Linked the wires, then disconnected one,Now have off or fast wipe... Do for now.

Ordered wiper motor but not confident

 

EDIT.

Wiper motor fitted, now works perfectly, Result!

Posted

This vid is a breaker.

 

https://youtu.be/O1XWEt9oi1Q

 

Is it a 'set up' - or would the whole shell (minus petrol/wheels) go in compactor... full of plastic/rubber/foam etc?

 

Does that make the output 'cube' low value/low grade??

 

 

Just askinn, lyke :)

 

 

TS

Posted

They do indeed do that, or did last time I took one. No wheels, but anything else goes.

Thing is now, most places strip them for the parts value.

Imagine you get paid more if its clean, same as you do if you weigh engines, boxes, etc separate.

Posted

^^^ .... I have seen, on here iirc, a 'device' on a fork truck which bites the engine/box out of the car !!

 

TS

Posted

Yeah they usually take the engine out as full of aluminium and other expensive materials. Also it's the most dense part of a car and doesn't compact well. Often the cubes get thrown straight into a furness to burn off all the plastics and the various metals taken off. Not very eco friendly really.

 

My grandad, uncles and aunts ran a scrapyard in Northampton. Unfortunately I was too young at the time and so couldn't really have fun driving the old cars around the yard like my older cousins did. Sold it off before I got that chance. However my grandad has facinating stories from the 60s-90s when he ran it.

Posted

What is this headlight unit off?

 

post-190-0-27813500-1512510905_thumb.jpg

 

It's on my uncle's camper van and he wants to get hold of replacements, but can't quite tell what it is.  It definitely looks BMW - the closest match I can find is E39, but I've never seen an E39 with gingercators before.

Posted

Indicator looks a bit too big for a e39

 

Any Bosch or Valeo numbers on the glass? Maybe a dealer (or Google) could identify it that way?

Posted

Any recommendations on good, interesting Dolomite books or even 70s triumphs? Xmas is coming and I like a good read!

Posted

Defo looks like e39 to me. Check out the gingercators on this early one.

 

I had a set in my lockup but I think I chucked them. Maybe bavarianretro can help you out.

 

s-l1600.jpg

Posted

Now that you've posted that, I've definitely seen E39s with gingercators before, I'd just forgotten that I had.  Now I feel like a tit.

  • Like 2
Posted

did i dream it or is there a leak detecting dye and lamp kit avail for coolant leaks?   id swear ive seen them cheap on ebay but cant see any now i want one

Posted

Anyone ever done a clutch on a 2.0HDi Blingo?  I mean, HHCIB*...?

Posted

Anyone ever done a clutch on a 2.0HDi Blingo?  I mean, HHCIB*...?

Done one on a 306 HDi, which I think should be basically the same given the similarity between the two front ends.

 

It's easy enough, but there's not a huge amount of space to squeeze the gearbox past the subframe and refitting in particular can be awkward if you're doing it on your back with the car on axle stands. I found it much easier dropping the subframe off to give clearance. If it's a keeper, take the opportunity whilst the 'box is off to replace the clutch fork bushes (cheap from Peugeot/Citroen) and the diff oil seals (cheap enough on eBay and from factors) plus I'd suggest checking and if needs be replacing the crank oil seal.

  • Like 2
Posted

did i dream it or is there a leak detecting dye and lamp kit avail for coolant leaks? id swear ive seen them cheap on ebay but cant see any now i want one

I got one on eBay last year, came with a little UV torch and it was quite effective.

Posted

I got one on eBay last year, came with a little UV torch and it was quite effective.

what did you search for..all i can find is a/c leak testers

Posted

Yes it has the glass roof. I was thinking of splitting the dpf/cat and knocking out the cat and cleaning the dpf. Apparently just knocking the cat out doesn't upset the Ecu.

Anyone heard the same/different?

Cat on a diesel is passive so the ecu won't know, there are no lambda sensors or owt.

 

It will know about the DPF though, that needs mapping out.

Posted

Two questions about my w202 Mercedes please.

 

1. The paint code is 249 Malachite/Spruce Green. But there are two colours on my car and I need some of the lighter shade made up. How do I make sure I get the right one?

 

2. There’s a small tear on the driver’s seat. I’ve bought some green leather in order to make a ‘geography teacher’ elbow patch befitting of an old Merc. How should I fix it on? Ask MiL to sew it or use some fabric glue?

 

Thanks

Posted

Anyone ever done a clutch on a 2.0HDi Blingo? I mean, HHCIB*...?

Changing an aux belt and crank pulley was hard enough. Tight fit that engine.

Posted

Not too bad - get a pair of drive shaft seals first .

Will prob also need the input shaft sleeve too . I always fit them now while the box is out . If it’s been making noises for a while then it may need a release arm .

Getting the gear linkages off without breaking them can take patience.

Posted

It's a tight fit at the belt end but not bad at the gearbox end once the battery tray etc is out of the way.

 

Wouldn't have thought it was too bad a job, if the clutch had gone on my blingo I would have been fairly happy to have a crack on the floor with jacks etc.

Posted

Two questions about my w202 Mercedes please.

 

1

2. There’s a small tear on the driver’s seat. I’ve bought some green leather in order to make a ‘geography teacher’ elbow patch befitting of an old Merc. How should I fix it on? Ask MiL to sew it or use some fabric glue?

 

Thanks

 

Do you have a pic of the tear?

Posted

Given that everything I know about electronics can be written on the back of a capacitor, this may seem like a really stupid question.

 

I have a moderately watertight old prefab concrete garage with no power feed (the roof doesn't leak but water can get in under the edges of the floor when it rains, which will eventually get fixed).  I'd like some light in there and I have a spare car battery knocking around so was thinking of hooking it up via some sort of regulator to something like this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45W-Ceiling-Suspended-Recessed-LED-Panel-White-Light-Office-Lighting-600-X-600/152186076839?hash=item236eff3ea7:g:tfYAAOSwARZXljrE

 

Would that work?  I understand that the battery's output needs regulating to a steady 12v, I'd need to somehow attach it to a wall switch as well and had the thought of using a solar charger to keep the battery topped up.  However, I am not sure where to start or what's best to get.

 

Any thoughts?

Posted

I believe you can drive the original Honda Insight mk1 as a petrol only.

 

Can a Mk1 original Prius do the same?

 

Google hasn't helped me (definitively).

 

Prompted by this Prius for sale

 

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201712021769350

 

'Hybrid Issue but does drive'

I don’t believe the battery pack will be fucked at 65k if it’s genuine - might be something else.

 

I think it will drive fine on the petrol only tho.

Posted

Given that everything I know about electronics can be written on the back of a capacitor, this may seem like a really stupid question.

 

I have a moderately watertight old prefab concrete garage with no power feed (the roof doesn't leak but water can get in under the edges of the floor when it rains, which will eventually get fixed).  I'd like some light in there and I have a spare car battery knocking around so was thinking of hooking it up via some sort of regulator to something like this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45W-Ceiling-Suspended-Recessed-LED-Panel-White-Light-Office-Lighting-600-X-600/152186076839?hash=item236eff3ea7:g:tfYAAOSwARZXljrE

 

Would that work?  I understand that the battery's output needs regulating to a steady 12v, I'd need to somehow attach it to a wall switch as well and had the thought of using a solar charger to keep the battery topped up.  However, I am not sure where to start or what's best to get.

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

You can light a garage off a battery, no problems.

There's loads of 12v LED light solutions to choose from, 20w of LEDs will light it fairly well, I'd put a pair of strips along the roof about 6" off the side walls, so that a car doesn't cast a shadow.

 

How often/long to you expect to use the lights? A 50w solar panel and charge controller are maybe £60. If you've got a clear view of the sky without shade from buildings or trees then a 50w panel will get you about 15watt hours per day, worst case. In summer, more like 150 watt hours.

 

Then its a simple calculation - your lights are 20w, so you can run them in winter for about 40 minutes a day off of solar power.

An old car battery will give you a decent buffer so you can average it out over a week or so, and run the lights for 4.5 hours on a weekend and then let them charge up all week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...