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How much bike training do you guys reckon it would take to get an experienced driver onto a bike? I know how to use the roads,  how to operate a bike (theoretically) and I'm sure I can apply some of the general experience I had when doing driving training to bike training. Also do I wait a year and a bit and do direct access or just jump in right now and go restricted?

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How much bike training do you guys reckon it would take to get an experienced driver onto a bike? I know how to use the roads,  how to operate a bike (theoretically) and I'm sure I can apply some of the general experience I had when doing driving training to bike training. Also do I wait a year and a bit and do direct access or just jump in right now and go restricted?

I did a week long course, zero to test. It was very hard work!

Then I found it took thousands of bike miles to build up the reflexes, muscle-memory etc to a point where I felt that riding was becoming natural. At that point I wanted to do some further training because I had ridden enough to feel my lack of technique.

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How much bike training do you guys reckon it would take to get an experienced driver onto a bike? I know how to use the roads,  how to operate a bike (theoretically) and I'm sure I can apply some of the general experience I had when doing driving training to bike training. Also do I wait a year and a bit and do direct access or just jump in right now and go restricted?

You'll need to do your Cbt 1st,so whoever takes you through that will give you an honest guide to how to go about it

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How much bike training do you guys reckon it would take to get an experienced driver onto a bike? I know how to use the roads,  how to operate a bike (theoretically) and I'm sure I can apply some of the general experience I had when doing driving training to bike training. Also do I wait a year and a bit and do direct access or just jump in right now and go restricted?

 

Took me a week long course (did a CBT previously) which was about £700 for my full licence. Dropped a bike once.

 

There were older chaps than me there who were into cars, motorsport, modifications etc - i.e. people who should know what they were doing - who were failing tests and dropping/breaking bikes willy nilly. I find there is little or no read across from motoring skill/experience, although the ability to drive safely and have your wits about you helps the most. As a cyclist I benefitted in that I already had the 'think safe' mindset that's crucial to pass your bike test, most car motorists obviously don't need this.

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Road sense obviously helps, a bit, but your ingrained reactions are often very wrong and take a lot of training out.

 

e.g. want to speed up? put your right toe down. Oh, I'm slowing down. Change gear? take your hand off the bar and wave it around to your left somewhere. etc etc.

 

It's very doable, but car experience/reactions often takes longer to train out than just training a newbie to do it in the first place.

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I did mine last year, direct access, cost about £500 for a 4 day course including CBT etc.

 

I had done a few spells on 125s and scooters so had some previous experience. 

 

I found it was quite easy and if anything the off road "module 1" test is harder than the road bit.

 

Matt, I'd say it's got to be worth doing direct access as you now have to do a test every time you go up a category, so you will pay again for your full licence if you go for A1/A2 to start with.

 

If you've got a year to wait, do a CBT and ride a 125 on L plates for a year, will be helpful when taking your full test and a CBT lasts for 2 years so you won't need to do it again if you do direct access in a year.

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although the ability to drive safely and have your wits about you helps the most. As a cyclist I benefitted in that I already had the 'think safe' mindset that's crucial to pass your bike test, most car motorists obviously don't need this.

 

I think that's where having a tiny 23 year old hatchback with 100% manual brakes as a first car and the fact that I generally drive with max fuel efficiency in mind might be useful to me; thinking well ahead, road positioning and anticipating other road users which as I understand are all important parts of motorcycling.

 

e.g. want to speed up? put your right toe down. Oh, I'm slowing down. Change gear? take your hand off the bar and wave it around to your left somewhere. etc etc.

 

Eh, I don't know about that to be honest, I certainly don't feel like that would be an issue for me. Time will tell I suppose.

 

 

If you've got a year to wait, do a CBT and ride a 125 on L plates for a year, will be helpful when taking your full test and a CBT lasts for 2 years so you won't need to do it again if you do direct access in a year.

 

That certainly seems like the best way of going about it, not stopping my tight-waded-ness is having a hissyfit at that idea mind you.

 

Thanks for the input lads.

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apparently its still a prob on modern triumphs - the one im reading about is 2011!!!!!!!!!!

 

and the bits to sort it are 1200 quid :o

 

So they basically have no money then? I'm stumped as to how a manufacturer could have such an expensive problem for so long.

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oh they have money just not throwing at the places where the people need it

 

they superceded the parts so that now these ones dont fit the earlier bikes

 

same as bmw with final drive issues -  from the late 70s up till 2006 the oil seal went and leaked itself all over your rear disc = yer going nowhere

 

or the newer 12s with the fuel pump electrics - best thing people say is to carry a spare :o

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oh they have money just not throwing at the places where the people need it

 

they superceded the parts so that now these ones dont fit the earlier bikes

 

same as bmw with final drive issues -  from the late 70s up till 2006 the oil seal went and leaked itself all over your rear disc = yer going nowhere

 

or the newer 12s with the fuel pump electrics - best thing people say is to carry a spare :o

 

I wouldn't say carry a spare, I would say carry your money elsewhere!

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I have had loads of triumph triples and have had no issues with starter sprag clutches, although the one on my mates Mille race bike failed recently, currently have no bike shite as I've just sold my vt250 project, and my TT600 track bike, I now have a nice gsxr 750 srad in the garage, my first small(!) bike after years of litre bikes and I'm very impressed with it for a 14 year old Suzuki

 

P1020405_zpsgvitflvc.jpg

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After 26 years riding I did a three week police advance course on a bike (perk of the job). My God had I picked up some terrible habits, even though I did track days and 20 to 30 thousand miles per year. The main thing taught is how to read the road, and how to ride them safely-speed came soon after. I am a massive advocate of training but a high majority of riders would rather spend a bit of money on bike bling than training.

 

I'm faster and safer than I have ever been, but I acknowledge I am not invincible, and I just want to get home each night.

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Any bikists near Middlesbrough? Found a CR 125 I quite like the look of but there isn't much info in the ad so would be great if someone nearby could have a nosy for me.

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I wouldn't say carry a spare, I would say carry your money elsewhere!

Mot man bought a new 1200gs water cooled last year 5.5k miles done and 'gearbox issues'

 

Fair play to BMW new engine and box and old in box to Germany

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What are Triumph Daytona 1000s like, please?

 

Buzzy, rare because unpopular, any survivors will be overpriced (there's a 50,000 miler on eBay atm for 900 quid, ffs!).

 

Will possibly be actually worth something as a rarity in 10-20 years, but by then we'll all have hoverboards. .

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What are Triumph Daytona 1000s like, please?

Are we talking the old 1000cc 4 cylinder jobby or just misnaming one of the triples? I had a 4 cyl 1000 Daytona that I bought as a winter beater when I had my new Speed Triple (didn't like getting it dirty!) and I intended to abuse the Daytona and then flog it on and make a few quid.

 

I LOVED it.

 

Yes, they are heavy and  old fashioned to ride but if you are used to 80s - 90 jap stuff you'll feel quite at home. Mine had been dyno'd before I got it at 126 hp and all it had different was pipes - stainless - and it was a proper quick old lump. I also found it great through the winter - the fairing does a good job of keeping you warm and dry and it was really sure footed in the shitty weather.

 

Yes, electrics can play up and I had a fault on the ecu that made it misfire like a bastard at low revs in traffic when it got hot - cured with a new piece of wire spliced into the loom but it took fucking ages to find....

 

They are really well built old things as Triumph definitely 'over-engineered' the range to try and cure the old image. If you buy one that has had a modicum of tlc over the years it will be a good bike.

 

The sprag clutch thing really only got the triples, the thou and twelve hundred didn't suffer anything like as bad and even then, the early ones had a removable hatch on the gearbox that made changing them quite easy - deleted on later models!

 

Mine did the rounds of various friends after I had it and everyone loved that bike, I was just negotiating buying it back from the current owner (another mate) when some dozy bitch drove straight into the back of it at a roundabout! Write off in a BIG way, but my mate was okay thankfully.

 

The bike was quite leggy when I got it (about 45000) and by the time I was gonna buy it back it was up to about 75000 miles and still as strong as ever.

 

I'd have another if I could find a nice one.

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Anyone want to buy my deauville ntv650. Just been mot'ed until next june. I have also given it an oil and filter change and will stick a new battery on it as the old one has died due to lack of use. £650 but will offer a shitters discount. Located in Somerset post-5515-0-29490600-1432554042_thumb.jpg

I am off to France in 2 weeks so trying to shift it so I can bring some French 2 wheeled shite back with me. At the moment my other half won't let me but if this goes I might be able to sneak a new one in the luggage.

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Can anyone give me some advice on chain tools please.

 

Need to fit a new chain to my fireblade in the next week or so, I think it's a 520 chain if that makes any difference?

 

Will the likes of these be alright for fitting the new chain? I'd normally plump for the cheapest option but will spend slightly more if these are rubbish.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Chain-Splitter-Breaker-Motorbike-Riveting-Tool-Heavy-Duty-Link-O-ring-/391142744780?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5b11eca2cc

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORBIKE-CHAIN-BREAKER-SPLITTER-RIVETING-TOOL-HEAVY-DUTY-LINK-RIVET-REPAIR-SET-/391103622788?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5b0f97ae84

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Can anyone give me some advice on chain tools please.

 

Need to fit a new chain to my fireblade in the next week or so, I think it's a 520 chain if that makes any difference?

 

Will the likes of these be alright for fitting the new chain? I'd normally plump for the cheapest option but will spend slightly more if these are rubbish.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Chain-Splitter-Breaker-Motorbike-Riveting-Tool-Heavy-Duty-Link-O-ring-/391142744780?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5b11eca2cc

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORBIKE-CHAIN-BREAKER-SPLITTER-RIVETING-TOOL-HEAVY-DUTY-LINK-RIVET-REPAIR-SET-/391103622788?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5b0f97ae84

AVOID! I tried one to split the chain om my CBR1000 and it failed miserably.

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I've always managed chains without any special tools..the Autoshite way. Grind off a pair of pins, or just cut the chain in half if it's getting replaced. Build up the softlink with o rings and get a GOOD pair of vice grips or a G Clamp, and a ball bearing. Squeeze the pins with the ball bearing betwwen the jaw and the soft bit of the pin. You can dress it up with a hammer once nicely flanged over. Simples. Held out on the Autobahn on a ZZR1100 for 2000 miles...

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