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£10k Ideal vehicle build dream thread - what would YOU build?


320touring

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I'd get my Mondeo EV converted. 

I might just get it done for £10k if I went for a motor about the same power (90-100 bhp) and I wouldn't go crazy on the range - just 100 odd miles, with the aim of keeping the weight about the same.

Let's face it, the 1.6 Zetec is hardly the best bit of the car.

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23 hours ago, grogee said:

I think Mini too, I'm sure this is way out of budget but:

Heritage Clubman shell if such a thing exists

Maybe a cage if it wasn't too intrusive, something to increase chance of survival in big shunt

Really pimped A-series eg 1310cc, big valves, LCB and Weber. But n/a not turbo

5-speed box

13" wheels and whatever brakes I can fit under them

Hydrolastic suspension with some sort of adjustability (valves?) and Hi/Lo foot joints

Air con. It was a factory fit for Japan so it's doable if bits are available

Some sort of nice seats that fit 

Custom audio and dash/instruments

Twin tanks

Probably BRG with a white roof please. 

(I've overspent, haven't I?) 

Just a new shell is teh £10k blown.

Back in 2007 I took this £1,300 Mini

100_0802.thumb.jpg.48dc9dbd625e3e40c6bb9b88cf8f777b.jpg

100_0811.thumb.jpg.2ca9e0c0cb9660e8a13ecda434273298.jpg

and spent another £7,000 and ended up with this

2009_04090005.thumb.JPG.44148071645f61036176c69042c53314.JPG

The seats are from a mid 1990s Mini that were retrimmed in red leather.

2009_04090006.thumb.JPG.bc65d9d1fe0cc6f9f1bbecfb13a58ee3.JPG

2011_09050037.thumb.JPG.23cd7ed151dd2d8578bbbc6ad73815a7.JPG

I'm not a fan of big wheels on Minis so went down to 10s in the end.

DSCF5613.thumb.JPG.065cae96e55d92690486d3568cee5a9a.JPG

Sold a few years back after another wheel change.

IMG_7917(2).thumb.JPG.7596af36bda776b816145684baa1f65a.JPG

I should get round to finishing this one that has been in a lock up since 2020 stalled

Photo-0008.thumb.jpg.4c6313d82b6cf27e54371909a1afd139.jpg

roverrepair6.thumb.jpg.35f1ceac552364a99491ba4c76c87977.jpg

roverrepair26.JPG.50599be9dac046a832702effb2c46b02.JPG

DSCF5926.thumb.JPG.3ea848bc614b692e5b497c1688f53270.JPG

 

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Being absolutely honest, having owned it for a few months now, I'd probably just get the Partner gone through really well to ensure it's continued existence for the next 10 years or so.  New rear beam to help out the slightly crashy ride, get all the starting rust stamped out and just generally have it gone over from end to end.

It's just overwhelmingly *pleasant* to drive, fun even on a decent road despite looking like a box on wheels, and ridiculously practical that it makes sense in my brain.  Probably would make more sense if it were a petrol as I'd be less likely to be banned from every town centre in the next year and a half...but it is what it is.

Upgrades I'd like to have would be cruise (which hopefully I'm about to sort anyway), and heated seats.  The latter sadly I don't think were ever a factory option so some engineering might be involved in sorting that tidily.  Though with an actual budget to play with I'm sure someone could find somewhere to put the switches from a Xantia or similar that wouldn't look tacked on.  Also the stereo really needs Bluetooth connectivity - but I really want a solution that doesn't kill the heads up display on the dash and the remote controls which makes upgrading more awkward.  I've kept meaning to see if there's a way to tap into the CD changer audio...again, if I had a chunk of £10K, sure someone could just make it work!

Not very exciting I know...but that's kinda where I am in life now.  It's fine having fun and exciting things, but I've really come to enjoy just having a comfortable, easy, low stress car to fall back on.

Admittedly I'd also like to just chuck the R25 at someone with a similar instruction of just "Fix everything." Though I'd probably run out of cash before the to do list!  On a car that's probably worth a grand on a good day...

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On 20/01/2024 at 01:47, straightSix said:

I always wanted to put a 2jz into an xjc with a big snail and the upgraded Bilsteins you can get. With prices now it'd more likely be the same engine into a series 3 xj

I’d love to do similar to my S3 XJ.

It would have to be a straight six, Toyota JZ, Nissan RB or Ford Barra. Turbocharged naturally, with a built auto (Turbo 400 or similar). Bodywork and interior restored as standard. Completely new wiring loom, suspension refreshed, full stainless exhaust.

That being said, I think the 4.2 XK engine would be a cracker fully rebuilt with modern EFI and engine management, possibly with forced induction.

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Volvo 960 estate  (or my 940 with leather/wood interior added).
Modern auto box coupled to a engine with good, low revs torque so it can waft around - diesel or pezz, not bothered.  
Stiffen up the suspension a bit.
Don't need to be a sleeper or a drag racer, just easy .....
That would see me out I reckon

Sorted.

 

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On 20/01/2024 at 10:13, andy18s said:

Apart from the Manta 400 rep mentioned, I'd be buying something like this

Then throwing on a kit from MRS200 to make one of these.

https://www.mrs200.com/

 

My other £10K build - and I wish I had done it - was seriously considering having my mint, well specced Goodwood Green SW20 MR2 T-top built up with a Woodsport V6 conversion. I abandoned the idea when I moved house and got a Citroen C6 and I think the MR2 would have been a much better way of blowing £12K in 2 years.

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4 hours ago, MorrisItalSLX said:

I’d love to do similar to my S3 XJ.

It would have to be a straight six, Toyota JZ, Nissan RB or Ford Barra. Turbocharged naturally, with a built auto (Turbo 400 or similar). Bodywork and interior restored as standard. Completely new wiring loom, suspension refreshed, full stainless exhaust.

That being said, I think the 4.2 XK engine would be a cracker fully rebuilt with modern EFI and engine management, possibly with forced induction.

I did see someone in America did a turbo conversion on the old xk lump that looked cool. Although it was a full drift conversion with cantilever suspension in the boot

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I am actually contemplating this with some of my existing tat.

My MGBGT, its a rotten old thing, it was free which is a great start price wise! Once I have finished the body work the plan was always to improve performance. As we all know the B series was an asthmatic potato of an engine which rather let the rest of the car down. My initial thought was getting a 7 port head for some authentic period performance but after seeing a Landcrab with a VR6 in practical classics I have had a change of heart and so might the B...  

My other thought on similar lines is putting a 3ltr legacy flat six into my Forester. There looks to be just enough space, keep the rest of the car standard for maximum Q car effect!

 

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Subaru stuff is all interchangeable,it's just the wiring that complicates things.

There's a great Facebook group called Six Swapped Subarus which covers anything really,including the diesel engine which are horrendously unreliable..

https://www.facebook.com/groups/416248955247757/?ref=share

Edit.Just found this Supercharged 3.6 transplanted Vw camper....

Screenshot_20240121-195040_Facebook.jpg

Screenshot_20240121-195451_Facebook.jpg

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Being an old timer myself, I'm working on a Daimler V8 (Jaguar MkII body shell) at the moment.  Turner's 2.5 ltr V8 is a sweet motor, and I like this particular car because she's the less-than-usual spec with manual gearbox with overdrive. I'm presently working on various mods including a sliding sunroof for summer cruising ..which I find particularly excellent when driving along avenues of trees such as through Thetford forest. 

 

P1460441s.thumb.jpg.723e2e96fc9bd38d4a8c6ce0b2152330.jpg

^ I'm also converting an MGB front under-bumper valance panel to fit (..originally they didn't have a panel under there),  and soon I'll be modifying the rear wheel arch spats to my own design.   These are wonderful old-school cars and the Daimler branded cars are presently still affordable.  I'm simply modifying certain aspects to my own tastes.

This car was well less than £10,000, as a scruffy but roadworthy sub-90k mile example.  In fact there's one on ebay now for half that price (also a manual with overdrive) but needing a clutch.

The jobs I'm doing would be well within budget.  However I've now blown it !  :ph34r:  ..because she's booked in to be stripped down for a bare-metal respray with epoxy primers, inside and out, and underneath..  oops ! :rolleyes:   

Work in progress < Here >

Pete

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I have a 740 outside so that seems a good place to start… stiffer shocks and springs seem obvious, but I’m split on what to power it with. Merc diesels into Volvo has already been mentioned so I’ll disregard that. My first thought would be to stay 80s Volvo with a 2.3 turbo and 4 speed o/d box, this would be relatively straightforward. IMG_6448.thumb.jpeg.1d14256d398e68795eb583e29cdc8f8d.jpeg

The other option would be to stay Auto and take the engine and gearbox from an LS400. A bit more involved but has been done! 

If starting from scratch my dream car would be a Mark 1 Triumph 2000. I read a magazine years ago about Chris Witor’s car. He said the best engine was a MK2 2000 head on a mk1 bottom end, lighter and and better revving than a 2.5. Add fuel injection and you would have PI performance with reliability to use the car daily.  Alfa 156 seats would finish the interior off nicely after adding rear seatbelts. 
IMG_9128.jpeg.390a59cab7cc382de168de1d85bf47e8.jpeg


My last thought for now is based around a wreck I seen when out for a run a couple of weeks ago. I’ve long fancied a day van/stealth camper and thought this could be the base…IMG_9030.thumb.jpeg.75d1c8258510c9d1adf45961cea73a5c.jpegIMG_9032.thumb.jpeg.5f3ad6919b92be25f9706a19265f61af.jpeg

Loved the VAG 2.5 diesel in my old Volvo S70, so that would be the engine. Too small for a fixed bed and extra seats I think, so would need a 3 seat rock and roll bed, and 2 hammocks above. Might be a bit tight for space! Some insulation and a diesel heater would finish it off. It could be a good multi use motor, a 6 seater that can occasionally be used for nights away. hopefully I have enough budget left for a bonnet!

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Series 2 Honda CRV petrol auto, maybe with a later Accord 2.4 engine if the budget allows. Weld anything that looks remotely iffy then rustproof it. Lift it a couple of inches and fit 225/80 tyres so it might have a chance against Glasgow's shit potholed roads. Couple of LED lightbars front and rear, Saab 9-5 seats and a decent stereo. Should be doable for under £10k, no?

Sort of like this but with slightly less shit wheels.

004df434_10fe_4b96_a560_417f55ac4fec_eb18ebddfbeb4f2d18d67a559c277c913bb0bd97.jpeg

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There are loads of ways I could spend £10k, but one I've always fancied would be a 2.0 Zetec converted Mk1 Fiesta.  Originally, I fancied one in Gulf colours, but I'm a bit old for that now, so it would probably be Ghia based in a nice sedate metallic hue.. Opening quarter lights, velour seats, all standard looking, but with the suspension suitably stiffened and an unassuming set of slightly larger wheels to accommodate bigger brakes. 

I'm sure I'll think of something  else soon!!

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On 19/01/2024 at 19:23, Asimo said:

Triumph Ajax hybrid: Two door Toledo centre with Dolomite long-boot, early 1300 front panels and interior, Triumph Rocket engine & ‘box,  (2.4 litre three cylinder)

 

On 19/01/2024 at 19:31, quicksilver said:

Or how about a 4x4 Triumph 1500 with a Dolomite back axle and a Saab Turbo engine?

I have my own Ajax fantasy build and have spent a long time thinking about the details. I just want to put a Triumph straight six in my 1300, obviously converting from front to rear drive at the same time. I know it won't fit as is but it will with a bit of fairly simple tinkering 

Firstly the FWD engine sits much higher because the diff is underneath but there is a big hole in the front bulkhead where the clutch and gearbox sit.

IMAG0079.thumb.jpg.0cd09ac3c8aa75fec5b24295031b0074.jpg

It might have to be made a bit bigger but it's all fairly simple spot welded sheet steel so wouldn't be too hard to modify. Beyond my capabilities but nothing a decent welder/fabricator couldn't manage. I know a couple of people who could do it easily but they also happen to be the two busiest people I know. At the worst we'd have to lose the heater but if you're going to have a Triumph straight six a few inches from your left knee heating won't be a problem, just like a GT6.

Front subframes are quite flexible. This is a 1500FWD.

110665-Zoom.jpg.5e9f57c55ca8d813bed111300e31bb14.jpg

And this is a Sprint.

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.016ddb0b3df5e0d803c85fe52eb18347.jpg

Different engine mountings front and rear. They are different again for the 1300, Toledo, 1850 etc. but the one thing that doesn't change is the four body mounting points and steering rack mounts. So the whole lot are interchangeable across the whole range. And the engine mounts on both the subframes and engines are just welded on brackets, so again easy to modify. The 1300 FWD and 2000 use the same front engine mounts by the way.

At the back you're probably thinking I'd use a Dolomite back axle. No thank you. I'll take the whole 2000 back end thanks. The Dolly uses a live back axle and tortion bars. The 2000 has a much nicer independent set up. The 1300FWD is unique among the Ajax cars in having independent semi trailing arms. Even the 1500 FWD used the Dolomite body shell with a dead beam axle in place of the RWD live axle. 

The underside of the 1300 lends itself perfectly to the shape of the 2000 back axle. 

 Half a 1300 back end 

IMG_20240126_162046.thumb.jpg.9cae6da78fc3afed87289759b037df55.jpg

And the 2000

IMG_20240126_162124.thumb.jpg.d7477f3cc764ca1da9c27ea9aeb308b0.jpg

The mk1 2000 had a narrower track than the mk2 so I think would be perfect. In fact I know it would. The one off Triumph 1300 4WD rallycross car used a 2000 back axle. 

4wdair.jpg.c58a04f3eef1de7d3a93032c227b321f.jpg

It also used this gearbox.

sso19.jpg.ef8e37e3b92ebe1b880b36189e694ad9.jpg

Which is a whole other project. Despite the fact that that would drop straight in it creates more problems than it solves.

But back to my car. I decided the easiest way to join the gearbox to the diff would be to buy a rotten 2000. When I first started having this fantasy rotten 2000s were everywhere, every banger meeting had half a dozen of them, so it would have been quite cheap. This way we could chop out the whole transmission tunnel and gearbox cover and weld it in to the 1300. The 1300 has a small tunnel already but it just houses the exhaust.

At the front, Dolomite front hubs drop straight in to replace the FWD hubs. In fact I already have a few Dolly bits in mine to allow me to fit the anti roll bar and adjustable shocks.

My car cost me £800 (admittedly in 1995) so I should have plenty of change from the £10k. Now I'd be quite happy with a standard 2000, I'm not doing this for the power, I'm doing for the smoothness and noise. There is no better sounding engine than a Triumph straight six with decent exhaust. But if I have lots of money left over I may as well have it breathed on a bit. The 2000 is better than the 2500 in the same way a 1300 is better than a 1500. It's shorter stroke so revs better and is less likely to put a leg out of bed when worked hard. One of the best cars I've ever seen is a French Blue 2000 mk2 belonging to a chap called Nigel. Highly tuned 2000 with the Lucas fuel injection off a 2.5PI. it's the best thing I've ever heard. On the Club Triumph Round Britain Reliability Run one year he overtook us about four times and every time we saw him coming we'd be winding the windows down to soak in the sound. Glorious.

Now, I know a lot of you, or at least the ones about my age, are thinking that if I wanted a small six cylinder Triumph saloon I could just buy a Vitesse. And indeed if I actually had £10k that is what I would probably do because whilst the above is certainly doable I really couldn't be arsed. But my idea would produce a better car than the Vitesse. Better ride, better handling, more comfortable and less rattly. If done well it could have been a rival for the E21 3 series.

Talking of Vitesses, I'd like a Vitesse estate made from a Vitesse and Herald estate. I know it has been done a few times but I don't think you could do it for under £10k these days.

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Take one of these.

fcb721cbd3fe88533931020b1e341477.thumb.jpg.abc378d76ef3576686e268eb0c86a729.jpg

One of these.

IMG_0583.thumb.jpg.9434cd3c08d86a4e0ba74fbc6264fd48.jpg

Combine somehow.  A P4 can still be got for relatively little and Traveller woodwork can be got new which is probably cheaper than trying to get a Traveller whole.  It'd be tight to get it within budget so you'd have to make up the slack with skills and luck.

 

 

 

Then I found out someone else has pretty much already done it.  Didn't put me off the idea of making my own, all the same.

Rover1002885UE1.thumb.jpg.6bea0316e16ffc3f608160fc06988a5f.jpg

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7 minutes ago, vulgalour said:

Take one of these.

fcb721cbd3fe88533931020b1e341477.thumb.jpg.abc378d76ef3576686e268eb0c86a729.jpg

One of these.

IMG_0583.thumb.jpg.9434cd3c08d86a4e0ba74fbc6264fd48.jpg

Combine somehow.  A P4 can still be got for relatively little and Traveller woodwork can be got new which is probably cheaper than trying to get a Traveller whole.  It'd be tight to get it within budget so you'd have to make up the slack with skills and luck.

 

 

 

Then I found out someone else has pretty much already done it.  Didn't put me off the idea of making my own, all the same.

Rover1002885UE1.thumb.jpg.6bea0316e16ffc3f608160fc06988a5f.jpg

I think you should still do it, the back end of this one is not easy on the eye.

8205926025_53c68f6e9a_b.thumb.jpg.36d6094cf5dbeeb1625e398faba4ef41.jpg

If you could make the traveller back end fit it would look much nicer. Carry on.

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Yeah... that's not how I envisioned the rear.  I was thinking more lop off the back of the roof and rear doors from the P4 and just sort of plonk the Traveller roof and rear body into the gap, keeping the P4 rear arches.  Might have to widen the Traveller body section  to match the P4 but the length shouldn't be too far off.

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Speaking of Triumph Ajax.... I might have aired this idea before on this forum, but it bears repeating if I did.

We begin with a four-door Toledo (I like a four-door car much better than a two-door).  Remove bootlid and file away, we'll need it later.  Remove rear screen and the valance below it; we're building an estate car here.

Now we need the rear roof section from the two-door model.  Using this gives us a perfect kick to the rear pillars, so that they match the line used on the back doors.  There's going to have to be some cutting of the screen frame too: on the main shell because we want an uninterrupted flow from front to rear, and on the new section because we want to make a lift-up rear screen.  This is where the bootlid comes in: we'll be using the vertical face of it, and a little of the horizontal lip, to make a split tailgate.

I like the idea of the 2000 back axle as outlined above; I hadn't thought of it before.  We're definitely going to need something stronger than the standard-issue Toledo because now we're going under the bonnet.

Which is where we're putting a Stag V8.  I mean, if you're going to do a transplant...  It's going to have the auto box behind it.  Stag brakes and the matching alloys would look fine.

Inside... we've got to go full-on Vanden Plas.  Blood-red leather, burr walnut, Sprint instrument pack.  Electric everything, including the Webasto roof.

I've always, always liked the "pretend it's an escaped prototype" idea, which is why everything that can be is from the Triumph parts bin.  Actually, while I type I've just had a really sneaky idea.  Paint it black over Damask Red and buy it a pre-suffix London registration.  Say it was built in secret in 1974 for the Queen Mother to use at Balmoral.

TBF there's probably only one way to bring this in within budget, and that's to own a business breaking Triumphs, and enthuse your staff enough that they fling themselves into the build.

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1 hour ago, eddyramrod said:

Speaking of Triumph Ajax.... I might have aired this idea before on this forum, but it bears repeating if I did.

We begin with a four-door Toledo (I like a four-door car much better than a two-door).  Remove bootlid and file away, we'll need it later.  Remove rear screen and the valance below it; we're building an estate car here.

Now we need the rear roof section from the two-door model.  Using this gives us a perfect kick to the rear pillars, so that they match the line used on the back doors.  There's going to have to be some cutting of the screen frame too: on the main shell because we want an uninterrupted flow from front to rear, and on the new section because we want to make a lift-up rear screen.  This is where the bootlid comes in: we'll be using the vertical face of it, and a little of the horizontal lip, to make a split tailgate.

I like the idea of the 2000 back axle as outlined above; I hadn't thought of it before.  We're definitely going to need something stronger than the standard-issue Toledo because now we're going under the bonnet.

Which is where we're putting a Stag V8.  I mean, if you're going to do a transplant...  It's going to have the auto box behind it.  Stag brakes and the matching alloys would look fine.

Inside... we've got to go full-on Vanden Plas.  Blood-red leather, burr walnut, Sprint instrument pack.  Electric everything, including the Webasto roof.

I've always, always liked the "pretend it's an escaped prototype" idea, which is why everything that can be is from the Triumph parts bin.  Actually, while I type I've just had a really sneaky idea.  Paint it black over Damask Red and buy it a pre-suffix London registration.  Say it was built in secret in 1974 for the Queen Mother to use at Balmoral.

TBF there's probably only one way to bring this in within budget, and that's to own a business breaking Triumphs, and enthuse your staff enough that they fling themselves into the build.

Do you mean something like this?

unnamed.jpg.de3af81f5751249c539a48f22e979165.jpg

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10 hours ago, Yoss said:

 

I have my own Ajax fantasy build and have spent a long time thinking about the details. I just want to put a Triumph straight six in my 1300, obviously converting from front to rear drive at the same time. I know it won't fit as is but it will with a bit of fairly simple tinkering 

Firstly the FWD engine sits much higher because the diff is underneath but there is a big hole in the front bulkhead where the clutch and gearbox sit.

IMAG0079.thumb.jpg.0cd09ac3c8aa75fec5b24295031b0074.jpg

It might have to be made a bit bigger but it's all fairly simple spot welded sheet steel so wouldn't be too hard to modify. Beyond my capabilities but nothing a decent welder/fabricator couldn't manage. I know a couple of people who could do it easily but they also happen to be the two busiest people I know. At the worst we'd have to lose the heater but if you're going to have a Triumph straight six a few inches from your left knee heating won't be a problem, just like a GT6.

Front subframes are quite flexible. This is a 1500FWD.

110665-Zoom.jpg.5e9f57c55ca8d813bed111300e31bb14.jpg

And this is a Sprint.

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.016ddb0b3df5e0d803c85fe52eb18347.jpg

Different engine mountings front and rear. They are different again for the 1300, Toledo, 1850 etc. but the one thing that doesn't change is the four body mounting points and steering rack mounts. So the whole lot are interchangeable across the whole range. And the engine mounts on both the subframes and engines are just welded on brackets, so again easy to modify. The 1300 FWD and 2000 use the same front engine mounts by the way.

At the back you're probably thinking I'd use a Dolomite back axle. No thank you. I'll take the whole 2000 back end thanks. The Dolly uses a live back axle and tortion bars. The 2000 has a much nicer independent set up. The 1300FWD is unique among the Ajax cars in having independent semi trailing arms. Even the 1500 FWD used the Dolomite body shell with a dead beam axle in place of the RWD live axle. 

The underside of the 1300 lends itself perfectly to the shape of the 2000 back axle. 

 Half a 1300 back end 

IMG_20240126_162046.thumb.jpg.9cae6da78fc3afed87289759b037df55.jpg

And the 2000

IMG_20240126_162124.thumb.jpg.d7477f3cc764ca1da9c27ea9aeb308b0.jpg

The mk1 2000 had a narrower track than the mk2 so I think would be perfect. In fact I know it would. The one off Triumph 1300 4WD rallycross car used a 2000 back axle. 

4wdair.jpg.c58a04f3eef1de7d3a93032c227b321f.jpg

It also used this gearbox.

sso19.jpg.ef8e37e3b92ebe1b880b36189e694ad9.jpg

Which is a whole other project. Despite the fact that that would drop straight in it creates more problems than it solves.

But back to my car. I decided the easiest way to join the gearbox to the diff would be to buy a rotten 2000. When I first started having this fantasy rotten 2000s were everywhere, every banger meeting had half a dozen of them, so it would have been quite cheap. This way we could chop out the whole transmission tunnel and gearbox cover and weld it in to the 1300. The 1300 has a small tunnel already but it just houses the exhaust.

At the front, Dolomite front hubs drop straight in to replace the FWD hubs. In fact I already have a few Dolly bits in mine to allow me to fit the anti roll bar and adjustable shocks.

My car cost me £800 (admittedly in 1995) so I should have plenty of change from the £10k. Now I'd be quite happy with a standard 2000, I'm not doing this for the power, I'm doing for the smoothness and noise. There is no better sounding engine than a Triumph straight six with decent exhaust. But if I have lots of money left over I may as well have it breathed on a bit. The 2000 is better than the 2500 in the same way a 1300 is better than a 1500. It's shorter stroke so revs better and is less likely to put a leg out of bed when worked hard. One of the best cars I've ever seen is a French Blue 2000 mk2 belonging to a chap called Nigel. Highly tuned 2000 with the Lucas fuel injection off a 2.5PI. it's the best thing I've ever heard. On the Club Triumph Round Britain Reliability Run one year he overtook us about four times and every time we saw him coming we'd be winding the windows down to soak in the sound. Glorious.

Now, I know a lot of you, or at least the ones about my age, are thinking that if I wanted a small six cylinder Triumph saloon I could just buy a Vitesse. And indeed if I actually had £10k that is what I would probably do because whilst the above is certainly doable I really couldn't be arsed. But my idea would produce a better car than the Vitesse. Better ride, better handling, more comfortable and less rattly. If done well it could have been a rival for the E21 3 series.

Talking of Vitesses, I'd like a Vitesse estate made from a Vitesse and Herald estate. I know it has been done a few times but I don't think you could do it for under £10k these days.

Talking of of Vitesse estates,in 1984 I was made redundant.Given 12 weeks notice so plenty of time for job hunting.Went for interview at small engineering place,guy I spoke to had built his own Vitesse estate on a MK2 chassis.Got him talking about it and the job was mine!Stayed there five years.During that time he lost interest in it and bought a Mk 5 Cortina estate, eventually replacing that with a Montego estate.He'd done a great job on the Vitesse,looked totally factory,yet he sold it for very little.Happy days!

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8 hours ago, JJ0063 said:

I’ve been fascinated with this for a long time so I’d say I’d go for an Escort van with an E30 front end

It’d have to have an M57 335D lump in it too. 
 

Not keen on the ratty paint job this one has, so would keep it a solid colour.

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that works a LOT better than it has any right to.....

 

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anyways, in answer to the £10k question..... theres three options rumbling around in my head......

Build kit car with 2l duratec on throttle bodies, then track it a bit...... (i kind of like this plan, so i already have a chassis, and the engine from my now deceased mondeo in strorage).....

2wd ford ranger, with OM606 engine, and some sort of american pick up body dropped over the top..... (probably stretching the budget a little, but i already have the ranger with a blown up engine sat in the yard, and my 'daily' is slowly (actually pretty quickly) rusting away, but has the powertrain in.....)

A35 van, with a CG13de engine (probably with a turbo, because, why not), a 5 speed gbox (possibly options here are mx5 (probably too big, but i have one) Suzuki 413 (possibly too old and might be knackered, but again, i (sort of) have one), or sensibly, a jimny box.... again, this is an idea i really fancy building, so i have a van and a few other bits and bobs squirrelled away already......

Frankly, if i even have money and time, i could probably build some pretty cool stuff...... 

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On 20/01/2024 at 15:53, ProgRocker said:

Lada Samara with a Fiat Twin Cam engine if it will fit? Bog standard externally but with uprated brakes and suspension and whatever else it needs.

Would drop right in in a Riva, AFAIK.

I'd try to see if any of the Hayabusa engine could be persuaded to power a Suzuki Wagon R+, in 4x4 form. The one with chocolate cogs in the gearbox. 

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