Jump to content

Marina door handles

Full Members
  • Posts

    182
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Marina door handles

  1. February update time, I am clearly not rushing this.... The sill has now been cleaned back and is re primer'ed and appears much happier, this took a couple of attempts as the low temps in the garage caused one painting session to go wrong possibly not helped by switching to a different brand of primer half way through. So I changed back to the original brand and cracked out the hair drier to pre warm the can and sill panel. Success I think. With that starting to look half decent I moved on to the inner wheel arch as it was crusty. I cannot get hold of a replacement wheel arch let alone and inner part so had to get creative. And the inner... Choppy choppy time... New inner section, made up folded cut and formed, not the sexiest looking thing but it fits. Then the outer which I had to do in sections. Not helped by blowing a hole in part of it..... I had some how flicked the welder onto its 2nd power level which is a bit too much for thin body work. Hole filled and cleaned up... And inner lip welded in place, followed by some primer just to keep things protected... Its definitely going to need a bit of filler to look okay, I hate filler! I am getting dangerously close to having a car with MOT safe metal work, its just everything else that may let it down....... Oh and I tried Motowns suggestion of Ford wheelnuts, it works they even look the part, cheers!
  2. More faffing with the rear axle. Drained the oil out of the leaking pinion seal, who needs drain plugs? then un-did the drain and fill plugs to make sure they weren't seized (all okay). Took the back plate off to check the diff for any glaringly obvious issues. Looks rubbish its........... Its clearly an open diff! Moving to the other side I removed the pinion , levered out the remains of the seal and dropped the bearing out. Naked pinion end... Then I moved on to the hubs, these are notorious as they are tapper fit and take tones of pressure to shift. I purchased a ten ton puller off a well known auction site as I had previous success with these. Got it in place and wound it up and instead of a nice satisfying BANG! there was more of a whimper and an oil leak but the hub staid put 😕 . Back in the post went the puller and my search for a better one started. I ended up with a sci fi looking 20 ton puller And off came the first hub, a proper satisfying crack this time, no messing! Ta dah... Hopefully it will treat the other hub with equal ruthlessness. The only negative of the experience was the hub pullers instructions I am not sure what the horse was for? Read and enjoy........
  3. Thanks Motown, lots of info to take in there. I will contact the 800 club directly about wheel arches as there is nothing on their parts page. I do hope if the do arches they are better quality than the sills. I think I am okay for a master cylinder, I will be following all the advice when it comes to bleeding the brakes!
  4. Another small update I have now scrapped back all the paint, cleaned the bare metal and gone a bit mad with kurust/genolite stuff. The first layer of primer (red oxide) has also gone on but didn't get any pics. I just hope this does the trick...
  5. Well no news on the wheel arch yet, I may have to get creative.. With festivities out of the way I thought I would get back on the Rover for a bit more fettling and found this on the brand new sill.... Look at that rust, Looks like this car needs a new sill, hang on a mo! Not sure what is going on here but I have now started scraping the primer back off and cleaning the metal below, it seams like there was something on or in the paint that was on the new sill (I only cleaned off the areas I was going to weld, there is probably a lesson there!). So the plan is to bring the entire out side of the sill back to bare metal and then red oxide, then primer - then make sure nothing is bleeding through, then paint it. I have to admit I am not very convinced of the quality of the sills supplied by the Rover 800 club, they seem thin just were you need to weld them, supposedly they are 1.2mm thick steel, I suspect their micrometer was broken when measured! I suspect its down to less than 0.8mm in a lot of places. Problem is there isn't another source for these so I shouldn't complain too much...
  6. Your not kidding either, piccies from the chassis clean up from a few years and a house move ago.....
  7. Whiny diff? I wish, it was more of a howl, also the pinion seal is leaking like its not even fitted! As for the oil pressure I have replaced the pump - made little difference. Its the crank bearings I believe.
  8. The chassis they are based on is rather over engineered, weighs a ton. Sure the out riggers can rot but you would have to park one in the sea for a few years to really make the main rails unserviceable! I dont blame you for buying an XJ40 I fancy one of those as well!
  9. When I was a youngster growing up in the early Eighties I noticed a couple of people had Scimitars festering on their drive ways, I thought they looked interesting if slightly mouldy. Fast forward a few years and I too have a Scimitar on my drive and its been festering for a good while now......... It was briefly on the road about 2 years ago but it quickly demonstrated why it didn't want to be there, by howling its diff and producing not enough oil pressure. At the beginning of this year I did start on the oil pressure front, I started stripping the bottom end of the engine (in situ) but instead of finishing the job I accidentally bought a Rover, this seems to have monopilised quite a chunk of my time (see my other thread). Any way I have started to get my Scimitar mojo back so occasionally between bouts of welding. I have been fiddling with the Scim. Firstly I though I would tackle the most pressing issue I could possibly think of.... Yes you guessed it the clock! Because I always disconnect the battery when the car isnt running (which lets be honest is actually all the time) the clock never runs, I decided to replace it with another gauge, so what would be useful hmmm, so I went on ebay rummaged through the old gauges and found exactly what I didn't need, yes I found a vintage Smiths vacuum gauge. It looks great but it doesn't even light up, so its a day light only gauge. It did occur to me afterwards that actually an oil temperature gauge would be a sound investment, so that might be next, just have to decide were to fit it neatly? Next job on the list is the back axle, I figured I could do this on the drive... the design of this six link live axle makes the fixings rather difficult to access - my ugga dugga gun is not getting in there....... Red shock absorbers - because red = fast! Look at that axle travel! Finally at rest Just the fun job of stripping it and then figuring out what is wrong, I have a hub puller but I am waiting for the Ebay fairy to deliver more axle stands so I can actually support the thing with out the aid of the wheels. In the mean time I have hot rodded the MG.... Too much camber at the rear?
  10. Well its been 9 months ish so time for an update..... No it isn't finished....... So by April I had acquired a pair of sills from the Rover 800 owners club. I slowly took the drivers side sill apart, replacing sections of membrane as I went and then tackled the bottom of the B pillar which had become properly crusty. None of these panels are available so it was case of so your best with sheet steel a vice and a bit of ingenuity. The B pillar repair was tricky not helped by the original metal seeming to be quite thin even by Rover standards! I created a kind of over engineered triangular bracket which I fitted in place of the missing section. and then sealed up the sides (only the first part of the process shown). Eventually I worked my way down the sill and also repaired the bottom of the A pillar.. At this point I checked the calendar and it was about June, so time to fit an actual sill! The sills supplied are not full size you have to seem weld them into the remnants of the original top sill which is a bear but do able.. It didn't help that the welder broke part way through this process. Something went wrong with the torch so when it got hot it stopped passing gas (rather crucial for a good weld). this took a while to figure out and not being a modern Euro type it was fairly involved replacing the torch. So now its about August so I started on the other side Yay! (this was supposed to be a quick and dirty get her on the road kinda project but hey ho.........) I will save you a repeat but it was pretty much the same on the other side. So here is the other side nearly finished.... Obviously the welder broke down for a second time, this time the wire feed..... I am so tempted to get a nice shiny new one and give up on fixing my old Clarke but realistically the repairs have come in at less than £70 quid so far, which is a lot less than a decent new one.... As you can see late November/early December has been fillering time, to try and make it look presentable . As ever there is another snag, the passenger side rear wheel arch is crustier than Crusty the clown, you cannot seemingly buy a Rover 800 wheel arch, in theory a Montego one is the correct shape, cant find any of those for sale at the mo either. So there you go getting there slowly, maybe by next Xmas........... Please someone remind me , why exactly did I buy this heap?
  11. You maybe correct, I know very little about Standards, actually according to my better half I have very low standards.............
  12. Quite enjoying this guys handy work and laid back manner on camera . This is his new project for a customer, bring back a Standard 8 to life with a plan to fit a turbo MX5 engine to it..... Cant quite understand how he gets so few views?
  13. Bloody hell! I have driven a Castle Combe action day many years ago and spectated at a couple, seen some hairy-ish moments but nothing like that. If normal track day rules apply, he was over taking on the wrong side (pass on the left).
  14. This thread has been a interesting diversion for me this evening and boy does it bring back some memories of my own code brown moments... Here is a particularly silly one. Back in about 95/96 I was running a W reg (1980) mini 1000, it was my first car and had run okay but after subjecting it to a few months of commuting it started to play up. It would start okay but after a mile or two it would start to miss then die. Fortunately I was on an early morning start, no bugger around to see my misadventure. The car conked out at the traffic lights one morning, Just after the junction the road went downhill ideal for a jump start. The lights went green so I jumped out and pushed it across the junction, as the road steepened the mini picked up speed and I caught my foot on something, stumbled and lost grip of the car.......... Shit..... Not really known for my sprinting ability I some how managed to channel my inner Linford Christie and ran as fast as I could (which in reality wasn't very fast but just fast enough to catch the little bastard mini), I jumped in and managed to get it in gear and fired up and didn't crash. I dont like push starting cars especially down hill......
  15. I am now on a weird shift pattern, running 5 days on a 12 hr shift, then 5 days off. Planning on a big push welding up the Rover on my time off I decided that after running out of welding gas again..... I would ditch disposable bottles and go big. Over the last few days, a welding cart, an adapter hose thing, a bottle of Argon mix gas (with funky built in regulator)and an optimizer have arrived. I spent a good few hours setting everything up only to discover the optimiser wont hold pressure, it pings off the connection every time you open the tap.... Obviously the welding company aren't open again until Monday and then they will have to post the new part out... I might have to do DIY instead....
  16. John Noakes goes sidecar racing - yet another attempt by the Blue Peter producers to off a presenter...........
  17. Neither do I really, I am 99.9% sure its going to be crispy, crusty and in need of fresh metal....
  18. Rust update.... I have been hard at work over the last couple of weekends, lots of head scratching, lots of c.a.d, lots of chopping bits of metal from my stash, and a bit of metal inert gas zappy sparky thing. Pro metal workers, body shop peeps and welders please look away! Just needs fillering, job jobbed right? Wrong, it seems I missed a bit. Looking further down the sill I noticed the edge looked a bit crumbly. Trying to view the car how an MOT tester would and prodding a bit harder , I made a further grim discovery. Further prodding revealed this... Seems as though water had been sitting in the sill for a long time rotting it out, further cutting and digging revealed this.. I do wonder if the other side is just as bad? This is going to get complicated but it wont stop me getting the car back on the road, it might just take a bit longer than planned. Still a bit annoying so much for a quick an easy project...
  19. Having worked at dealers for BMW, Saab, Skoda and Peugeot. I am happy to say they all seemed to have warranty issues, Peugeot didn't really seem worse than anyone else. I can back up Motorpunks tale in that claiming back warranty work was a bear at Peugeot though. I have only had one French car a Citroen ZX which was a dependable old thing even if it had a pretty hard life before I bought it. I kinda miss the old lump, would have another. The irrational hatred of anything French annoys me.
  20. Another update.....,In a break from painting bits of house, I decided to have a look at the crusty sill end. As is always the case the hole was bigger than I remembered and when I started prodding the lower section of the wheel arch sort of broke up.... Its a tad manky, so at this point I got busy with a wire wheel on the grinder and went on the attack... Okay its not pretty but its all fixable, I have started with the cardboard templates but at that point pretty much ran out of time, so its business as usual crap photos and little progress. I might do some proper metal work next weekend. In other news I was reminded that the horn needs to work for the MOT, I hadn't checked that so thought I best try it. Oh surprise it doesn't work, so that's another job to add to the list.
  21. Luckily driving the Atego was a bit of a one off, fortunately all of my own cars have perfectly readable instruments so its not an issue otherwise I would be down the opticians for some varifocals.
×
×
  • Create New...