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Bfg

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Everything posted by Bfg

  1. .. Not much happened this past week ..due to back issues leading me to be laid up for four full days. Got back to doing some work on Katie yesterday ..with her wheels n' tyres., and lightweight tasks like black smithing ! In short ; the wheels on Katie had been restored* donkey's years ago ..with heavy paint layers over the deeply-rust-pitted rims, hubs and spokes. Added to which the front is hugely imbalanced and wears a correctly specified Dunlop 4.50 x 16 ..from 1971 I think. The rear is an Avon SM MkII 5.00 x 16" ..which is just 1/4" wider than standard, and is a positively modern ..from 2004. Most likely the inner-tube is from then also. ^ it doesn't look so bad in the picture but there are some places where the spokes seem pretty wasted despite the heavy paint layers. So what do I do, replace the innertubes and ride on rust pitted wheels and old tyres or else swap them out. ? Perhaps I'm getting soft in my old age but I don't trust 'em ..even for dry-road running-in speeds. So for the well being of the skin on my limbs and probably much more, and the likelihood of real damage to my wallet - I chose to swap 'em out. ^ I had three spare wheels to fit an S7 or the S7-deluxe ..each in this sort of condition from years in storage. I chose the best two, even though one of those had a buckle in the rim ..and needed several applications of heat n' hammer to get it somewhere close to true. From experience I know the big fat 5" x 16 tyres at a low tyre pressure are not ultra sensitive to a bit of rim wobble. Seems to me that within 1/8" works fine, although I will use the best rim on the front, and they will be balanced as best we can. ^ This is the better of the three, although here with just a first coat of hand-brushed paint. And this is the one that had a bent rim. It's now had two coats of hand brushed Hammerite, and is presently sitting in the back of the closed car, parked in the sun, to bake dry. Tomorrow I'll rub down the newly applied paint on other wheel and give it a second coat. By Monday the paint ought to be hard enough to have the tyres, with new rim-tape and inner-tubes fitted. So that's all for today, and yes after this light exercise ..I can feel my back this evening ! Bfg.
  2. I invented one of those when I was still at school (very early 1970's) ...well so I thought . . ^ Using two cones, both with high-friction surfaces ; one as the gearbox input shaft, the other as output. A tertiary shaft carries an idle wheel, also with a high friction surface (like a tyre) to bear against both cones. This wheel might be controlled to move up and down the shaft, and in doing so transfer the drive at different ratios. Very simple and lightweight with few moving parts, probably running dry with sealed bearings ..and as the title says : continuously variable. ie., absolutely no steps between bottom and top gears. My best friend at the time laughed and told me DAF had already done it, so I realised I must be a right twit and so didn't bother inventing much more. And of those I never had the self-esteem to pursue them commercially or for good cause, nor even to tell anyone else. ( I still use the hot air bed warmer though ..each winter) . .
  3. and just because they could .. Porsche Jagdwagen which translated by google means .. Jagdwagen !
  4. .. and this is the 1952 Ferguson R4 2.0 prototype Perhaps as a tractor manufacturer they had aspirations be build cars like Maserati ?
  5. closer to home . . c.1966 yes, the same Ferguson who made tractors
  6. Thanks EH, that was useful. Shame I didn't see your post yesterday as I would probably have sought the Conti K112 or a Shinko. I've given up on Avon since I had two in succession split on me, aside from which the safety-mileage mkii are very heavy. As it was I had to make a decision and just get on with it, to get this bike on the road, so I can do some running-in miles and advertise the bike. I went for this used Dura Blvd. (below) with 5.5mm tread left and dated 2414, for £30 inc postage. This front tyre will not look so good on a 1948 Sunbeam but at least it ought to be safe. I'll don't plan to do more than a hundred gentle-riding miles on the bike before I sell it ..together with its original wheels and museum-piece tyres ..which are too old to even have date stamps on them. Thereafter the new owner can chose whatever he likes. For the back wheel, I already have a barely used Avon SM MkII which I'll use, together with new Michelin inner tubes (front & rear). The second set of wheels with those tyres will be fitted to Katie next week. Seen above with the petrol tank off Nudge as I've been repainting the tank ^ presently hardening in the summer heat for a few days before I lightly rub it down, compound and polish. ..my garage notebook < here > For the 1953 S7-deluxe Coronation bike that I'm restoring for myself ; the existing tyres are also Avon SM's MkII but dated 1993, so I'll keep your suggestions on file and buy new tyres for her when close to completion. But as, at the present rate of things, that may not be for another year or two I'd prefer to wait ..to get as new tyres as practical. Of course if I can find tyres of the right size ; 4.50-16 front , 4.75-16 rear then I'll try for those ..if they are not too modern looking. Thanks again EH. Bfg.
  7. Exactly as anticipated .. "Thank you for your e-mail. You are correct we do make some K82 tyres which are universal which are approved for both front and rear. There are occasions however within our vintage range that tyres after design and testing should only be fitted to a specific position. In the case of the 4.60-16 59S TT K82 - this tyre is advised as rear only. Sadly we would not be able to approve a product for use outside its tested design specification. Peter Wayte Senior Advisor Technical Customer Support & Service Goodyear Dunlop Tyres UK Ltd " Interestingly Avon tyres on their website say that although they do not recommend fitting their tyres on the other wheel (front to back, or back to front) if you do so - then reverse their direction of rotation.
  8. Have done, but am awaiting their reply so in the meantime wondered if y'all had direct experience of why a tyre is designated rear. I suspect., because of that designation, any Dunlop engineer, whatever he might actually think, will have to support that ..for fear getting their corporate arse kicked in the event of accident, etc. .
  9. Question on Tyres Dunlop K82 is said to be a universal front or rear tyre < here > but I more often see it being advertised as a rear tyre. I need a front tyre 4.60x16" for my Sunbeam. Anyone know where I might find out if it is suitable for use on the front ? or are there universal variants as well and rear only tyres. ? Thanks Just searched and found the Dunlop website which says : F/R SIZE DESCRIPTION L/S TT/TL CODE PRODUCT Front/Rear 18 2.75-18 42S TT K82 42S TT 651016 Front/Rear 18 3.00-18 47S TT K82 47S TT 651018 Front/Rear 18 3.25-18 52S TT K82 52S TT 651023 Front/Rear 18 3.50-18 56S TT K82 56S TT 651027 Rear 16 4.60-16 59S TT K82 59S TT 651038
  10. . Looks like I mighta got away with it.. Yesterday evening's arty image entitled ' Sunbeam Sunset ' Limited edition prints signed by the artist etcetera.. Today., warming in summer morning sunshine.. ..which by one o'clock was pretty darn hot ! The clear lacquer is far from perfect ..but then nor is this 71 year old petrol tank. Once hardened for a day or three ..then I'll flat it back with 1000 and used-1200 grit before hand compounding it. I'm sure any imperfections will bother me but I'm just so glad I didn't have paint reaction issues or blistering. So, as long as I don't ruin it now, I think I can live with it. I'll then leave it another week to harden before sealing it up with a hard polish. Bfg
  11. . I think I've 'xuxked it up..! I waited an hour with the heater wafting warm air over the tank before very lightly rubbing down the dust particles. But then the lacquer appeared to bloom and it went a fine crinkly finish. More heat to dry the water (from the wet n dry) and the bloom disappeared (or was it that I'd just turned the tank around to face the wall ..and so the lighting was different ?). you've got to ask yourself one question "Do I feel lucky? " Well, do ya, punk? So I then dumped another layer (approx 150ml) of lacquer all over. But that's two hours since I open the valve to hardener, and I have no idea what the working time of this paint is, once activated. It'll either work to flatten everything again or it will simply make things very much worse. So, on the one hand I'll be able to cut and polish it when properly hard, and on the other I'll have to let it thoroughly harden and then rub it down until I'm back to something flat and stable. A good painter has I'm sure been through this learning curve many times until it finally sunk in .. Don't Touch when things go tits up.! ..me I'm a total novice at this game, so how can I expect to get a decent result first try ? ^ 1/2 an hour later it looks better than I might rightly have hoped.. ^ under the harsh light of a spot lamp - the occasional reflection of fresh dust plus a good amount of orange peel.. These ought to cut back and polish out once the lacquer has thoroughly hardened ..So I'm hopeful. That's it for this evening. I'll leave the heater wafting more warm air over it for an hour or two ..and then tomorrow we'll see if I'll be wanting that .44 Magnum to finish the job. ! .
  12. . One step forward, one step backwards.. you'd think I were learning to dance.. ^ the first coat (400ml can) of black was not opaque enough to cover the light grey etching primer supplied, there was an underlying bloom. So after two days in the summer heat to thoroughly harden it was rubbed down again ready for the second coat / can. . ^ despite the paint I was pleased with the clarity of reflection when rubbed down and wet (with water). . ^ second coat of black went on better with a smoother surface. ^ again, after another two days in the hot sun, prep'ing again for clear lacquer ^ sod it under the surface a white spot. what do you do now ? when you have no more paint, and getting it would take another two days. Nothing to loose by rubbing it down to see if I can get passed it, down to black again. In doing so another three tiny white spots appeared ..where are they coming from ? I cut those back until barely visible but I dare not go any further otherwise.. who knows ! ^ That'll have to do. ^ pull the plunger in the base of the can to open the valve to the two-pack's hardener. Rattle for two minutes and don the face mask again.. ^ first coat of clear lacquer was going well . . . but before I'd even finished getting it wet on the top face .. ^ another speck of dust. At first I didn't know what to .. but not to touch it. So I put the activated two-pack paint in the bottom of the fridge and put a heater on the tank . . ^ fan heater needed to accelerate the drying. in June ! ? Then it was a matter of waiting 45 minutes and .. ^ another visitor. Using the macro setting on the camera shows up the orange peel I'm managing to achieve. Gee, I should get a job with British Leyland.. oops too late ! ^ following a very light rub down of those dust spots. I tried again. this time with the garage door closed. No good ..more dust particles. you can see one's reflection near the filler. I think the spraying must build up static which draws dust particles to it. How do you prevent that ? Rattle can is back in the bottom of the Fridge. Heater back on to warm / accelerate drying of the paint, although with two-pack I'm not sure how much difference it makes. Ok .. it's another hour later, so time for me to rush out to the garage again to see if it's ready to rub down (again). And then try the clear lacquer (again). Perhaps by now it's gone off. ? Bfg
  13. . Brilliant.., just absolutely bloody brilliant ! Although not a member, I was invited to the Essex branch meeting of the TR register club, held at the Alba pub, Copford, near Colchester last Thursady evening. I had only met the one chap (Rich) once before but was made as welcome as any old friend might have hoped for. BIG Thank You to all there. I don't know exactly how many TR's were there but I believe there was a TR2, a TR3A, several TR4's, two TR4A's (which is what I'm trying to buy) and then a couple of TR5's, perhaps half a dozen TR6's and just one TR8.. ^ the little car sneaking into the photo’s background to the left is not a Triumph. I can't imagine what sort of person drives one of those to a TR club meeting.! ^ two TR5's parked along the road, and the equally gorgeous red car parked on the grass is a TR4A with Surrey hardtop fitted. When Rich introduced me to the owner, Mike, as being someone who was buying one, he (Mike) looked up at my broad 6'-5" stature and simply said "you want to try it ?" Well naturally I assumed he meant for me to sit in the car for size "Thanks ..yes that would be great, I would.” Then he handed me the keys and said something to the effect of "take her down the road then" ! ..and set about adjusting the driver’s seat as far back as it would for me. Well to be honest I had a bit of difficulties getting in. Surprisingly, it wasn't a lack of headroom with the Surrey top on, but it was managing to get my legs and feet in. This car is fitted with Mazda MX5 shallow-bucket seats in leather. In retrospect ; very comfortable and supportive, but these were limited by the runners not going back as far as they might have been. The only way it was possible for me to get in was to exaggeratedly twist my knee under and the around the steering wheel ..fortunately a smaller diameter leather-rimmed one with a nice grip, but unfortunately with very shallow dish so it seems tighter to the dashboard. My leg had to fit between the wheel and the gearbox tunnel's H frame bracing ..and then to press the clutch fully to the floor as I lowered myself into the seat. There was no room in that car for me to slip my size-twelve brogues around the side of or under any pedal. I grabbed and pulled my right knee up towards my chest to clear the relatively short sill. It more easily unfolded again down around the wheel. Once installed I could barely move. Conversely, Mike slipped into the passenger seat as easily as if it were his favourite slippers. My mind zapped with unspoken thoughts of whether it would be possible., let alone responsible for me to even try and drive this immaculate TR4A on a public highway.? The sole of my right shoe was almost exactly the same width as the gap between the brake pedal and the outside face of foot well (Rhd car). And to lift my foot off the clutch was to pull my thigh tight into the corner of H-frame and the dashboard. Ok, it might just be possible to drive the car ..but what would happen in an emergency situation, would I be able to get a foot onto that brake. ? I later discovered this car has a USB socket fitted just under the dash where my left leg needed to be. Mike uses it for a digital ammeter, but for me it looses an inch or two of space into that corner. My right foot would lift only as far as the pedal was off ..only by ankle movement. Thankfully the throttle movement is relatively short travel. Still that amount of lift is just sufficient to then slip the foot sideways and across to the brake. With the seat in that position, the steering wheel was possibly 12 - 14" off the Michelin tyre I wear ..so not exactly a straight-arm driving position for me. And my right was tight against the padded-roll capping along the top of TR4A doors. I'm not sure Mike appreciated quite how tightly I was installed, but from his perspective I must have seemed like an old cloth sack over-filled with expanding foam. Looking on the bright side of things - I wasn't likely to slide about around corners. ! Here I was face to face with the TR4A's beautiful wooden dashboard and chrome rimmed 5" speedo and rev counter, each situated immediately in front of the driver, with minor instruments clustered central to the car with the black row of switches and ignition below. With a blip of throttle, the motor burst into life. Two and a quarter litres of 4-cylinder long-stroke, and a slightly sporty camshaft - the orchestra was glorious. The exhaust a nicely rounded tone, with a powerfully strong and discernible beat. Very nice indeed. It's been 25 years since I owned / drove a Triumph TR4 ..and momentarily I forgot about their fly-off handbrake. Nevertheless with that politely corrected I tried to smoothly (read : gently) Mike's immaculate car forward across the grass. Of course most of the rest of the TR group gathering stood immediately behind us ..watching and listening. With ankle movement only and it being an unfamiliar car I stalled it. “It likes a few revs” Mike reassured me. Restarted (oh I do love the way these engines burst into life) and revs duly raised ..the car smoothly eased its way across the grass. Remarkably controllable, easy and compliant, I followed Mike’s prompt and guided her down to the next driveway. Very tentatively I poked the car’s long bonnet out into the road so that I might see around the row of parked cars, and then we were onto the road. I looked to where I was to go and depressed the volume control and we were there. No drama just a firm push of acceleration through the comfortable armchair ..and instant transportation. From where I looked to where I was, every straight and every corner, road positioning was faultless. I wasn’t even thinking, the car just moved itself in an unprecedented manner - reassuring, precise, super quick, fabulous acoustics and yet extraordinarily comfortable. I’ve heard the impression “just think and it would take you there” ..but this was a just matter of looking ..without even time to consciously think, and we were conveyed.! There was no hint of the car’s handling, chassis or rear axle being upset, nor of under or over-steering, nor brakes not doing exactly what they were meant to ..so progressively, despite the road’s undulations, adverse cambers and the sometimes increasingly tightening corners of this tiny little Suffolk back road to nowhere. This car was utterly exhilarating. Now into my sixties, I’ve owned and otherwise driven a number of very nice motorcycles and cars. In fact as a (very much) younger man I used to design, build and drive very quickly, sport cars with a super low c. of g. and a terrific power-to-weight ratio ..and then I moved on (?) to driving decent production cars. Most memorable / favourites were the 850 Norton Commando (motorcycle), the 1125cc MkII Spitfire (car), a 1000cc Mini Clubman, a 3.3ltr 7-series BMW, a 911 Porsche, and a few (now classic) Jaguars. And of course I’m well enough versed with (..what used to be) modern cars of the 90’s and hereafter. But somewhere along the line I’d lost the joy of driving. I put this down to restrictive speed limits and traffic, boring motorways, and otherwise sub-conscientiously recognizing that I must have lost the touch in my old age. But after driving Mike’s TR4A I instantly realized that its the cars which have most changed. I’m still that same foolish young man inside this greying outer persona. As a self made businessman I went up-market in the type of car I drove, and as technology and design moved on, the more modern car became so capable and yet so insular that the driver in me was designated passenger doing little more than avoiding other users and giving directions. In truth these modern cars don’t handle and steer so very well as Mike’s 1960’s TR. Indeed their lack of feedback, the roll and easily induced tyre squeal, and the vagueness of the steering and unsupportive seats necessitate you back-off to a safe and controllable, sensible place. In terms of top speed, fuel economy, highway comfort, safety and reliable practicality, ingress and exit - they are a best compromise. But man ! ..they are also nanny state mind-numbingly soul less. From my admittedly short drive, it seems to me that the TR4A can be all absorbing to drive, as you feel everything but the discomfort of vibration and nasty noises. But that ‘feel’ is a direct feedback to the driver. Each and every very slight nudge in the seat of your pants or to your leg, shoulder, or finger tip ..caused by road irregularities or change in direction triggers an instantaneous response of subtle correction to the steering &/or the throttle. There’s no thinking involved it’s purely interactive (although that’s probably too modern a word for it) ..but whatever the word is, there’s a connection to what’s going on at every instant. That’s not easy or relaxed driving, but it sure as hell is FUN. And the car is not so powerful (..as some I have experienced) which toys with you for control. But still., it’s more than adequate for spirited driving, and it looks after you. It let’s you know what’s happening in a calm and collective manner, to trigger your reflex response. And that’s positively stimulating. We returned to the Alma (public house) and the car very quietly sauntered across the grass, back to the TR party. If she were a mare then I think she’d have given a last shake of her mane. I can barely remember such a great drive. I want one ..and I want to head out to find many, many miles of still-unspoilt roads. Getting out of the car seemed much easier than my getting in. And as I later pointed out to Rich, I was surprised that headroom and visibility were not an issue for me, even though the roof was in place. First impressions were that the interior of the car was rattle free, pleasantly quiet of mechanical and/or wind noise and very comfortable, although I suspect I would have liked more room if I were to be stuck in a summer-hot traffic jam. Massive thanks to Mike for his generously allowing me to experience a superb TR4A from the driver’s seat. It reaffirms my decision to own one. Only now I’m a little less patient.! But the story doesn’t end there.. Mike suggested I ask Rich if I might possibly sit in his equally gorgeous ’62 TR4, which is fitted with later (slightly deeper padded) seats ..by way of direct comparison of the seating positions and the fact that the roof was down. Rich was engrossed in conversation but half an hour later cleared a cardboard box out from behind the driver’s seat and invited me to try it. Phew, I was being blown away by these guys kindness to me ..almost a total stranger. As I approached the car he handed me the keys. ..Again I could only have hoped to be allowed to sit in the car, to try it for size, but no.. he had placed the box on the passenger seat and encouraged me to take the car for a spin. WOW ! on my own ? “without you ?” accompanying me ? I was anxious. This was huge responsibility. I soon settled into the driver’s seat. With its full size steering wheel it was even further a twisted knee to get my leg around the wheel but without a roof I could stand taller and with the seat being slightly further back (perhaps a couple of inches) ..overall ingress was much easier. Without such things as the aforementioned USB port being fitted to the underside of the dashboard, I had more room to move. Not a lot but still an inch or two when there was none feels like liberation ! The right leg was similarly pulled in and unfolded down to the throttle, where I found half an inch clearance between the brake pedal and the side of the footwell - ample ! This seat was only a tiny bit further back than those on Mike’s car but every fraction of an inch helps. Rich helped with the ignition key (a matter of knowing the technique) and then I started her up. What a difference ! ..the audio arrangement peaked to a brief crescendo of revs with the sharper tones of a stainless exhaust system. Throttle pickup seemed quicker but in truth I couldn’t say that was fact or just that it sounded so, with the louder tone and it being an open top. It wasn’t at all offense a sound track, just a very different orchestra with more brass rather than bass guitar. First impressions of Mike’s TR4A was that the clutch was heavy to operate, but perhaps that was because of my being so tightly confined, because I never noticed it as soon as we were on the road. Rich’s TR4 didn’t seem so from the outset. I soon found reverse and eased the car out into the road. Rear visibility wasn’t of course an issue but I was trying to pull out from between parked cars. Someone kindly stepped out into the road to guide me, again I think that was Mike. Thank you Sir. And then I was gone.. I had looked 200 yards down the road and I was there, spot on where I wanted to be ..correctly positioned to see further along the road. It seemed like an instant and the thought crossed my mind that I might have seemed a bit reckless in someone else’s car, so I eased off. The feel of this car was different. No better and no worse than the 4A just very different. Perhaps that was because of it being open, the rasp of the exhaust note and the seemingly faster engine pick-up (both cars have lighten flywheels), or just because I felt more anxious about driving someone else superb-condition TR4 for the first time on my own. An oncoming car sped around a corner and seemed very much over the middle of the road to me. The leather sleeve over this steering wheel moved a little as I responded, and then the branches of hedgerow trees seemed a little close. I slowed a little to ‘be sensible’ ..but in truth I was a little too anxious to enjoy this drive as much as I had been with Mike’s quiet reassurance. Mike had been chatting as I drove his car, and I gathered by the tone in his voice that he wasn’t terrified. But now I was driving Rich’s car and if something happened, even if that wasn’t directly my fault, then how the heck might I explain it.? Still it was great fun and exhilarating. Still it was great fun and exhilarating. Does this car have lighter handling, or was the live rear axle not quite as surefooted on these undulating sometimes adversely cambered unclassified roads ? Just a degree difference in the steering tracking adjustment can make such a difference. My test drive was too short to ascertain what was what. The word, reputedly from the racing boys, is that the TR4 chassis is better when pushed hard. Perhaps the 4A’s IRS is more forgiving for the novice ..but in skilled hands - has its limits.? Conversely I might just have felt a bit more vulnerable in an open top.? Although I ride motorcycles, I’m trying to remember when I last drove an open top car ? Many years ago it seems. Certainly Rich’s TR4 was more spacious ..both physically and visually airy (white dashboard ..which I do like) ..and equally as comfortable as the 4A. So I relaxed a little and enjoyed the drive and this engine’s superb response. I felt an instant rapport with Mike’s 4A but perhaps the TR4 takes a little more getting used, or was it that by now I was just thinking too much, and felt someone else’s car in this sort of condition was too precious to really enjoy ? I returned in a civilized manner and easily turned in to park. The engine ticked over beautifully before I switched off. The handbrake lever in the foot well was (again surprisingly) not an issue for my long legs, and its operation felt perfectly natural to me. I lifted myself out of the car with ease. With the seat runners just 2” further back then I don’t think I’ll have serious issues with living with a TR, but the full-size banjo steering wheel, even though I prefer its look - feels less responsive to drive with. It is easier for tight parking-speed maneuvers, though. All in all - each car is BLOODY FANTASTIC ! ..no doubt it is the car I want. I’m of a freakish size but even with inappropriately wide shoes and restrictive seat runner positions I can drive these cars safely and have more fun than I’ve had (when driving) for very many years. As and when I get my car (which is an abandoned-project 4A) I can make things easier for ingress and getting out : the size and dish of the steering wheel, the padded capping on the door, the choice of seat and its runners, clearing the underside of the dashboard, the door handles positions, and the pedal spacing., are the most obvious. All in all the TR is a seat-of-the-pants sports car which is so incredibly capable. My Jaguars were elegant, comfortable, fast and sublime ..but the TR4 / 4A communicates directly with me ..and is just so much fun. Massive thanks to both Rich and Mike for letting me experience their fabulous cars in person. My own car will never be as pristine (..nor so precious) as theirs, but I would hope to achieve similar mechanical competence as their cars amply demonstrated. I'm smitten ! Bfg
  14. Been compiling some For Sale piccies of my Ami Super . . And my advertising has even gone oh la la continental !! . . < here >
  15. update on tank paintwork from this morning .. ^ firstly a very light rub down with 600 grit wet n' dry ..because the paint finish was satisfyingly nice from the etching primer this rub down was as much as anything to clear away any unseen dust or overspray. Literally I wiped over the surface very lightly until the water flatted across the surface rather than beaded. Funny stuff this etching primer. I probably used 450 ml of paint with the tack and three coats ..and the finish was great. Very nice paint to work with. It then soon felt hard and tough, but it rubs down really easily and the water runs while doing so are more darkly coloured than the paint itself. So very easy to rub through (as I did in one place on the underside of the tank) and seemingly a resultant very thin covering. The tank was paper towel and then air dried, and wiped over with tacking skin (a clean hand) to make ready for BLACK paint . . ^ black tentatively applied as a light tacking coat to the inside first.. No issues after ten minutes so I continued . . ^ light tacking coat all over, and left to air dry for 10 minutes at which point Bucketeer turned up on my doorstep to deliver some hubcaps to me ..and to pick up some computer stuff for Beko and LightBulbFun. Kindly he and Chris were prepared to wait a few minutes ..as I was keen to follow the same paint procedure as James (the paint supplier) had recommended.. Spray I did. ^ this is a little later ..after Bucketeer had moved on to the next stage of his triangulated tour of East Anglia, where the gloss of this satin paint had matted off. But to get a decent covering (opaque black) it needed multiple coats. In fact although just a 5 gallon petrol tank - it took almost all of the 400 ml (a complete rattle can) for this one coat. Thankfully I bought two cans of the stuff. I had hoped the finish would have been less eggshell than that ..but this is the way it dried (only soft touch dry after about 45 minutes). Although nice weather there's a northerly breeze so it's not a hot day here in Suffolk, so I'll now leave that to dry and harden a full day before I lightly flatten it and apply a second coat (can). As the man says.. you need to be patient with this painting game ..and not pick off an airborne seed that lands in your paintwork with a hard finger nail. ! ..perhaps I should write a dumb persons guide to how I learn ? Bfg.
  16. " Not a sensor " huh.. our 'beams are not so primitive.., they have an ammeter and low charge warning light, as well as low oil pressure sensors, as well as the traditional audible warning signal of splutter, splutter, splutter, eek. to tell you when you've run out of petrol !
  17. With Bucketeer due to collect tomorrow - have I got this right ?
  18. Thanks to Jazoli for your advice.. My attempts to repaint the petrol tank < here > Bfg
  19. Bfg

    Home made pick ups.

    I was only jesting chod
  20. It seems like longer since I posted here., but it's only 11 days ago. Lots been going on and the ol' mojo has been kicking me down frequently.. I mentioned last time that Katie now carries Nudge's petrol tank while her own is being resprayed. Unfortunately the contacts I had for paintwork couldn't be arsed, and one had packed up business to go n' work for someone else. So I had the choice 1.) drive an hour to drop the tank off with someone who I'd used before, but who is quite expensive and has a slow turn around, and even then the work is not without fault. 2.) use a company I'd never used before nor had any recommendation for, or 3.) do it myself. Regarding the latter., I don't have spray equipment, am inexperienced and have issues before with paint reacting, and the rattle can paint off the shelves is usually of the type which dissolves at the first whiff of petrol. So naturally ..this is the option I chose ! ^ This paintwork looked good after I cut it back and polished it up, but when I was adding petrol from a jerry can a little splashed over. I wiped it almost immediately but it had already stripped the paint away. (..the rusty dusty on the tank has nothing to do with it, that came after I'd remove the tank to work on it). So I went on Bikeshite thread and asked for advice. I think (unless I missed a reply) only Jazoli bothered to reply or had any advice, and he said use 2k lacquer and to wear a decent face mask. I looked on-line and found 2k paint doesn't necessarily mean two-pack (chemical curing) paint. Further looking lead me to ProXL < here > @ £60 / ltr (NB. don't buy - these cans are only 200 ml). This is a two-pack paint in rattle cans. A bit more searching led me to ebay seller car-colours-online which offered the same paint at £33.90 / ltr (..in 500 ml rattle cans). This company is a small old-school shop in Stockport, Cheshire so I spoke to the chap there (James ..who i think is the owner). He was very helpful and reassuring with his "how to paint" advice. Although not listed on ebay he also mixed a 2k (air drying) satin black paint, and also an etching primer to go over cold galvanising spray paint (zinc). So this is the route I went with ; one can of ProXl UltraEtch "an all purpose epoxy etch primer" (air drying) 500ml. x2 cans of 2k satin black (400ml each) and x2 cans of ProXl two pack clear lacquer "extremely scratch and petrol resistant" (500ml each) costing £80 ..I really hope this works well ! In addition to deciding and ordering that - I cleaned out the tank and used POR15 tank sealant inside . . ^ vigorously shaking, rotating the tank with an assortment of bolts effectively clears surface rust. A wash out and thorough dry and the tank is ready to seal. ^ As you can see the tank was in pretty nice condition, so it needing a re-paint was upsetting. Naturally masked off to seal with the POR15. After a day or two to cure and harden I tackled the outsides. . ^ I really didn't want to take the tank all the way back to bare metal but I carefully flattened the paint to remove the top layers of black paint. The original primer seems stable ..although the mottled nature suggests the red-oxide was sprayed and not flattened before the light grey was applied and that hadn't been flattened before two different types of black paint were applied. The black had been applied very thick to flatten down and cover up the underlying geology. I took it down just enough to get rid of the unstable top layer of black and to cut the remaining underlying black to be very thin. Then I used cold-galvanising spray paint as an inert layer. ^ over a seven day period the tank was given more coats, as I used this paint as a filler layer to fair the surface. Inbetween times the tank sat in the back of the car baking in the sun. And then today the spray paint arrived, so this afternoon - after a final rub down with 600 grit wet n dry, I tried the etching primer. ^ although it barely shows in this photo I very lightly sprayed the inside cheek of the rear of the tank, just to see if there was any reaction. All seemed good after 10 minutes. ^ so a light spray over the whole tank.. This is as recommended by James the supplier. Again it was left 10 minutes to "touch off". I subsequently sprayed the tank three times, with 30 - 40 minute intervals inbetween to build up a decent layer, which I'll need to rub down before applying the black. One light coating and then the three decent layers will I think do. This rattle-can performed well and the paint was easy to apply. The above photo was taken with the camera's flash so it looks a different colour but you might see.. the present finish is very similar to an eggshell. Within minutes the paint is touch dry. It's now 4:30pm and I'll leave the tank untouched for the rest of the day to harden ..and then overnight too. Tomorrow I place it in the back of the car to thoroughly dry in the closed-car-in-the-sun heat. I want these solvents to thoroughly dry out before I apply the black paint. So that's it for today. I'm still a little anxious re. achieving an almost pro finish ..but now hopeful. ! I bid you a good evening Bfg..
  21. They look like opening vents as used to be seen on the doors of pantry cupboards, or a boat's Heads compartment. . . . I'm not implying anything here .. honest !
  22. I've committed to £83 worth of paint bought via ebay from car-colours in Stockport. I've gone for ProXL extch primer, then a couple of coats of (chemical hardening) two-pack satin black, and then topping off with two or three coats of two-pack ProXL 'petrol resistant' clear lacquer. With using two pack there's a limited amount of working time after the paint's activator is mixed in, and so not a lot of room for error should a bug land on it or else I get a run or paint reaction .. so I'm already anxious.!
  23. 2k is also sold in rattle cans such as this HB BodyPro < here > @ £19.25 / ltr. Other brands specifically claim petrol resistant like ProXL < here > @£60 / ltr. Would the lesser expensive one not work better than the 'petrol resistant' single pack paints from the likes of Halfords ? ? Regarding drying / hardening the paint.. I'm quite happy for the fuel tank, once painted black and then lacquered, to sit inside my dark coloured Chrysler van, parked in the sun for a week or two. What's that 25 deg C for 5 hours a day, cycling cool overnight.. for let's say 10 - 12 days. EDIT. It seems as if " 2k " is a misnomer with some manufacturers (such as HB BodyPro) who are using it for air drying single pack paints. ! .
  24. Rattle can Spray paint ????? Anyone here had success with a particular brand of aerosol spray paint, clear lacquer in particular, for a petrol tank. ie.having a decent degree of petrol resistance. ? I've found Halfords petrol resistant clear lacquer doesn't spray well, and looking on line paints like AutoExtreme < here > have both good and some really bad reviews. Tetrosyl I've used in the past but they've changed their product and I don't know if it still works. I need to paint a tank black and then clear lacquer over that. What has anyone here used and can personally recommend.? Thanks.
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