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Posted

Carburettor ID help please chaps!

 

I was talking through the GSA starting/fuelling issues with FPB7 yesterday, and he mentioned it could be due to a holed accelerator pump diaphragm on the carb.

 

I have a couple of pics of the carb below and just wanted to confirm that It's a Weber 30.. and that this is the rebuild kit I need (or where one could be acquired!)

 

Thanks :)

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201419103465

 

post-17572-0-50020200-1551217547_thumb.jpg

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post-17572-0-40995400-1551217662_thumb.jpg

Posted

30 DGS

 

Got one away getting refurbished now.

 

Webcon do a kit. Dunno what it's like as I've subbed the job out to my carbnut.

Posted

30 DGS

 

Got one away getting refurbished now.

 

Webcon do a kit. Dunno what it's like as I've subbed the job out to my carbnut.

Brilliant cheers:)

Posted

I'm tearing my hair out with a battery drain on my wife's modern (2011 Ford Fusion), can anyone recommend a Ford forum where I can ask a few questions regarding fuses?

I’d start with the likely candidates, check the boot light is actually off when you shut the boot. If it’s like the Fiesta Mk4’s they had a set of contacts on the boot shut that used to work loose.

Posted

I recently won a Rover 800 on eBay, T series.

Seller has messaged me to say the coolant is starting to bubble, and it's showing some oil spots.

They also mention the elderly owner accidently topped the coolant up with PAS fluid a short while ago and it was flushed out the very next day.

Expansion tank obviously cracked, but sealed together.

What do I do? Is this a HGF waiting to happen?

Knowing your luck, it’s got amoebic dysentery. If various excuses and mishaps are starting to emerge before you even collect it I strongly suggest running away while you still have the chance, and your money.

  • Like 4
Posted

T-series not as prone to HGF as the Kettle but they do pop from time to time, usually due to poor owner maintenance (checking coolant, oil).

 

Item not as described, m8, walk away. Unless you paid very low money for it, in which case Shipley it - don't drive it.

Posted

Bugger, I've asked a few other pals about it and they've suggested walk away too.

 

I hate to be that guy with the seller as it's his elderly mother in law's car but setting fire to money is really tiresome.

Posted

This one ?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/rover-800/143126980613?hash=item2153086805:g:7eIAAOSw10VcSVxX

 

TBF he does mention a split to the header tank, but nowt about pouring ATF in there, even if it was only for one day. Not as described, no mention of oil in the header either, simples.

 

(nb I wouldn't ever worry about an oil leak from the rocker cover on a T-series - TADTS)

 

I certainly wouldn't be risking £500+ on it - if it were a coupla hundred maybe, as replacing the expansion tank/lid may be all that's needed to stop the bubbling, but no guarantee.

 

Break it to him gently otherwise you'll get an 'I no mi rites' explosion and you'll be called a timewaster on the next ad.

Posted

Bugger, I've asked a few other pals about it and they've suggested walk away too.

 

I hate to be that guy with the seller as it's his elderly mother in law's car but setting fire to money is really tiresome.

Sounds like a heap of shit. Sack it off.

Posted

post-20043-0-72729400-1551259639_thumb.jpg

 

Excuse the photo of a photo but that's definitely some defined mayo beginning to accumulate. I appreciate them saying it hasn't run for a little while but that's not good!

Posted

20190227_092643.jpg

 

Excuse the photo of a photo but that's definitely some defined mayo beginning to accumulate. I appreciate them saying it hasn't run for a little while but that's not good!

Looks quite normal in a car that doesn't get run upto temp and held there for long enough to clear moisture from the oil.

 

Offer them £150, if it shits itself you should have enough of a saving to repair it.

Posted

This. It's it's best chance of being saved and they know it.

Posted

Aye, that looks like it could just be condensation from lots of short runs.

Posted

Someone (not anyone here) has run my Impreza on pink coolant which I suspect is OAT.

 

Subarus don't run on on OAT, they run on blue glycol. I want rid of the pink vomit and the correct stuff in it.

 

Is it a pain in the arse to do a coolant flush given there's a turbo involved?

Posted

Someone (not anyone here) has run my Impreza on pink coolant which I suspect is OAT.

 

Subarus don't run on on OAT, they run on blue glycol. I want rid of the pink vomit and the correct stuff in it.

 

Is it a pain in the arse to do a coolant flush given there's a turbo involved?

What's the issue with the pink stuff in them? If you really want to change then drain refill with water, run, drain, more water & add flushing agent run, drain, more water, run, drain. Blue coolant, run, check, if it looks like mud you haven't flushed enough.

Posted

They're not supposed to run on coolant with silicates in them. Fucks the heater and other things up.

Posted

Fair enough. I'm guessing they must have used an odd alloy or solder on the matrix that reacts in some way.

 

Lots of flushing otherwise it does go a lovely muddy shade....

  • Like 1
Posted

Any suggestions on why my Saab 9-5 is very reluctant to restart after a long run then being left for half an hour?

Pedal to the metal doesn't work on fuel injection.

Posted

Any shit hot tips on cleaning alloy gearbox casings?

 

It's taking me forever to do the landy gearbox. Current technique is scrape thickest layer of crap off, then spray with engine degreaser, scrub with nail brush / smoll wire brush depending on how well I can get in. Repeat. 4 cans of degreaser in and I'm losing will to live.

Posted

Any suggestions on why my Saab 9-5 is very reluctant to restart after a long run then being left for half an hour?

Pedal to the metal doesn't work on fuel injection.

The petrol 2.3t had would struggle to restart when warm and often stall immediately after starting. Solved with new spark plugs. Petrol Saabs of this era use the plugs with that expensive coilpack to detect ignition timing and knock sensing. They need good and correct plugs.

 

Also could be crank sensor too. Another known failure part.

Posted

Any shit hot tips on cleaning alloy gearbox casings?

 

It's taking me forever to do the landy gearbox. Current technique is scrape thickest layer of crap off, then spray with engine degreaser, scrub with nail brush / smoll wire brush depending on how well I can get in. Repeat. 4 cans of degreaser in and I'm losing will to live.

 

Scrub with petrol or parafin instead, don't smoke.

Posted

They're not supposed to run on coolant with silicates in them. Fucks the heater and other things up.

 

I'd be tempted to leave it in for another month or so before filling the system with plain water incase the temprature drops.

Posted

A question.

 

On a few occasions we have bought something from someone who was of Irish descent and possibly of Romany descent (incidentally all labels are applied in a trying to ask a question sort of way and not being down on any particular group) on each occasion we have paid them cash and they have then gone into their pocket, pulled out some of their cash and given it to us. What's the background to this?

 

Next part of the question is that we have just sold something to a very nice chap who appears to be of a similar background. Are we supposed to pay him some money back in the same way? How much is it supposed to be?

 

Just don't want to go offending anyone.

I'm probably late to the discussion here, and other posters are correct - it's luck money, or "luck's penny" as it's known in some farming circles. Basically, you sold an item - usually livestock - and the buyer paid the agreed price. You'd then give them a small amount of your money as a token of goodwill, and the hope that the livestock would stay alive etc..
  • Like 1
Posted

Any shit hot tips on cleaning alloy gearbox casings?

 

It's taking me forever to do the landy gearbox. Current technique is scrape thickest layer of crap off, then spray with engine degreaser, scrub with nail brush / smoll wire brush depending on how well I can get in. Repeat. 4 cans of degreaser in and I'm losing will to live.

oven cleaner /wire brush /jet wash ...repeat until grime gone

 

then a few lashings with the strongest acid alloy wheel cleaner u can find to brighten the alloy

Posted

Any shit hot tips on cleaning alloy gearbox casings?

 

It's taking me forever to do the landy gearbox. Current technique is scrape thickest layer of crap off, then spray with engine degreaser, scrub with nail brush / smoll wire brush depending on how well I can get in. Repeat. 4 cans of degreaser in and I'm losing will to live.

I suppose the bits are too big to fit in the dishwasher?

  • Like 2
Posted

Bugger, I've asked a few other pals about it and they've suggested walk away too.

 

I hate to be that guy with the seller as it's his elderly mother in law's car but setting fire to money is really tiresome.

 

If you like setting fire to money, try owning an Alfa 164 ..... oh wait!  :-D  :-D  :-D  :-D

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